My front driver's side speaker buzzes at any volume above normal. And I'm not real impressed with the entire sound system as a whole anyway..... so I have decided to replace everything except the stock headunit.

I'm almost positive I do not have the premium Alpine system. Anyone know how I can find out for sure? A door code or something? Also, assuming I don't, what size are all the stock speakers? How are they powered? All off the headunit? And I've heard the stock speakers are molded into the door paneling. As in you have to cut through a little plastic to remove them rather than un-bolting. Truth to this? Any info would help!

Ok, here goes....
If you have the alpine system you will see on the rear deck lid your sub with an amp. If you don't have the rear speaker on the deck lid than you don't have the alpiine.

Your current speakers run off your stock head unit. The speakers in the door have clips and once you take the clips off, your speakers will come out. As for the size, I forgot to measure them! Sorry.

If you replace your stock speakers with something better, it won't help you since the stock radio though looks nice, really doesn't deliver the quality you expect. I just replaced my headunit with a Jensen 6.5 flat screen radio. much better quality!

hope this helps...

Thanks for the reply! I do not have the Alpine system.

So I'm really set on keeping the factory headunit. Just stubborn I guess.;) But I would like to add everything else. Meaning two doors speakers, two rear seat speakers, a single 8" or 10" subwoofer and probably a single 5-channel amp to power everything. Approx 400 watts RMS total. I would be using a line output converter to convert the headunit's signal into RCAs for the amp. Yes, not the quality of an aftermarket unit with RCA outs, but I've personally heard great results using this method so that's what I'm going with.

I guess I just need to know some pointers on the X-Type. Like, where can I run the amp power wire through the firewall? (probably 8 gauge but 10 if I can get away with it) Tips on removing the door panels and diconnecting/removing speakers? And all the speakers ARE round correct? I see the grill is round, but that doesn't mean everything. And if so, round speakers are 5 1/4" , 6 1/2" or sometimes 6 3/4". My guess is they are 6 1/2" but I'd like to know for sure before I purchase anything. Tips on getting the new speaker wire through the boot and into the door? Anything else I should know?

Hmmm, you're going totally opposite as to what I did. I kept my speakers (I thought they were good) and just replaced the head unit with this one check it out: http://www.cardomain.com/item/JENVM9021TS

This head unit has more features and I didn't need an amp to get the quality I wanted. Plays all known CD formats and takes SDRAM chips for truly on the go music, not to mention all the other features it has......anyway, sorry I got carried away...

I did install a 12 inch sub though...with built in amp. I ran the power wire from the sub through the trunk, under the door sills, then around and under the shifter. Under the shifter you will find a rubber piece where the Auto shifter bolts to the floor and cable goes through floor. I just moved it to run the wire, then under the car and carefully around to the battery. (Avoid any sharp edges and hot exhaust!)

As for your speakers, I really don't know the size, but the door panels are easy to remove and you should have no problems. The panels are held in place by plastic clips that you'll have to gently pry to remove. Run your speaker wires through the original current location, boot located on side of door.

If you're a DIY kinda guy, you should have no problems. Took me 3 days to get my stuff set up. just remember, in your case you're dealing with lots of wires, so I would be real careful as to not cross any wires and start a fire...(seen too many with these kids shyt rigging everything) if you're not sure, best bet is to pay someone and have it done right.

Good luck

Thanks for all your help! I totally know I should replace the headunit for top notch quality, but it's not gonna happen. lol [&:] And I was looking for a hole in the firewall. If anyone knows? I'm not running any wires on the outside of the car. And I've done an install or two in my time. So no worries... ;)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/342000-342999/342548_39_full.jpg

cool, good luck ace

My GF just got a 2002 x type and was looking for head unit options. I like your double DIN idea. What did you use as a filler/ installation kit to frame the unit in the dash?
Any details you have on how you installed it would be much appreciated!
Oh yeah, any pics of that killer Jensen in your ride?
I'm an audio engineer, so I'm not afraid of wires! I just want it to look good, and sound great, of course.

Thanks for your help. I read so many of your posts already to help in her decision to buy.

First post, yeah.:D

cool, and congrats...your GF got herself a sweet ride and you better keep an eye on her....

find one of my post with the radio. It has lots of photos of the radio and entir car with the suspension dropped and other stuff.

I'm working on the battery now...moving it to the trunk....balancing act...got a 12v tire pump and tire repair kit (like what BMW does now) No spare....shaved approx 20 pounds so far.

Pics will follow soon...

You have the full sized spare? I have the original 17" aguilla in my trunk you could probably get a couple hundred for it!

Na, i'll hold on to it......just incase.....

I think all or most stock speakers are 6 1/2".

That be correct

How hard is it to take off the door panels??

It shouldn't be hard. Even though, I haven't taken mine off yet. But, I need to replace the pannel clips, where do you get thoes, from Jaguar???

Ebay has some clips...

http://cgi.ebay.com/jaguar-door-card-clips-genuine-parts-x20-off-x-s-type_W0QQitemZ280043392252QQihZ018QQcategoryZ10390 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

you can pick those door clips up at any local auto parts store for much cheaper than that. i needed some on a previous car i owned and got a box of 25 for around $8 a year ago or so. they are a universal part for the most part. just bring one with you so you can match up the depth of the part.

OK thanks for the help.

Door panel is kinda hard...use of force is required and if you're careful you'll be able to save the clips...

Im gonna try and pull the front doors off today. So just to be clear, Its gonna take force to pop the clips out(Ill try to be careful). Then I just have to disconnect the wiring harness and of she comes...There's no screws or any hidden surprises???;)

Once you take the the 2 (I think) screws off from the door arm rest....no surprises....just some tender force....
Lets us know how it goes..

Better speakers do make a BIG difference!!!

Took about two hours to do all the mods for the front speakers. I didnt do the backs yet. Its actually "3 screws". One on the arm rest and two at the very bottom, after that its just "tender force". Theres a tension cable on the door handle but thats just a quick release.

6 1/2" speakers will fit but with slight modification, they fit the hole but dont line up with the screws. The factory speakers are enclosed in a plastic housing which makes the speaker a little bigger then 6 1/2". Just extend the holes with a homemade bracket and you should be fine. I secured everything with a little silicon and a few tie wraps.

The highs and the bass response was the most noticable. Gonna do the backs real soon...

Sweet....thanks for the info...you using your stock radio?

Yep, the stock radio is good enough for now. Maybe a future upgrade! The stock speakers had a cheap voice cone on it but the Cerwin Vega two-ways I fitted make a difference.

Yeah, i suppose my next step is to get better speakers since my new killer radio is hooked up...

since you are going to be replacing stock speakers to go with the new HU, if you are interested, i have a very nice and barely used 4 x 75 RMS amp that i no longer have a use for. it was used to drive the 4 speakers in my last truck, but since i only added subs to my X it is collecting dust now. it's an audiobahn A6004T.

details

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fLQd6erMlaE/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=037A6004T

What's an HU....and was that your way of saying you're selling the amp?

Head Unit, and yes, sorta. read what i said... if you are interested. not putting it up for sale publicly, i want it to go to a good home. but since you have changed the radio (HU) you more than likely will run an amp for the new mids and highs, no?

I just won on ebay the factory rear dual speaker deck (Jag's factory sub)minus the amp. I would like to complement my system with that unit, but it didn't come with an amp. My current sub is great, and when I get this factory part installed it will give me a total of 3 subs....

will your amp work for this??

As for my HU, you probably already saw my previous posts on it....it's a Jensen DVD 6.5 inch display.......love it...it sounds fantastic and probably won't need any other item....(not very well educated on speakers/amps/his/lows....) so i don't know what else i'll need to finish it up...


http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n69/jagman_05/jagradio7.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n69/jagman_05/jagradio9.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n69/jagman_05/jagradio10.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n69/jagman_05/jagradio5.jpg <----sub in trunk

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n69/jagman_05/jagradio9.jpg

well, as a rule to get the best sound possible, you want the lowest possible signal coming from the HU to the amp. the amp is for amplifying, not the radio. that is why all aftermarket radios have at least one low level (RCA) output, and some as many as 3 (front speakers, rears and sub). if your HU is powering the interior speakers to a place you like, then don't change it. if you do replace the interiors tho, make sure you get a set that is rated similar to what your HU output is. and please, don't go by what they list the MAX power handling as - go by the RMS rating. 99% of the time, they just double the RMS rating to get the max. think of it this way - RMS is what you can run into a speaker 24/7 and not have any problems (in theory), while MAX (or sometimes called PEAK) is what would be possible for a one time shot, like say a single bass beat.

as far as my amp with your new speakers, try to find out what their power rating is. this amp will send 75watts of power RMS to 4 speakers @ 4ohms, or 150watts to 2 speakers @ 4ohms when you bridge it down to 2 channels. of course these are the maximum numbers, and you can adjust it via the gain to what you like. if you do go with more amps, i would also suggest getting a capacitor (sometimes called a cap) of some type. they are sorta like a giant battery that helps your electrical system that helps it when you have a large draw of power, mostly for when a big bass hit happens. remember back in the day when someones audio system would cause the lights to dim? capacitors help prevent this.

NIce advise, thanks!
I'll see first if I can tap into my exsiting amp (the sub i have) into the two bass factory Jag speakers on the rear deck. I'm not big into all the thumping...but it does sound nice when trying to impress the crowd...

i could be wrong, but i doubt you will be able to tap into the power from your sub. that is an amplified sub, and it is designed so that the amp is correct for the sub. if you start messing with it i don't think you will like the results.

on a positive note, you have all the wiring you will need in the trunk already (inputs, power) for another amp. one thing you will need is a fuse block to run power to both amps. these are less than $25 usually. think of it like a power strip - main power line goes into it and then you have 2-4 'outs' for power depending on the kind you get.

i just ran out to the garage to look around, and i actually have a 1.2 farad capacitor and a fuse block as well. think it over for a while and let me know how you decide to go. you may just get a 1 stop shopping opportunity :)

And lets say i was intereted...what would be your price?

I want some pictures of the subs you bought for underneath the trunk deck lid. Also can you mount the infinity underneath the deck lid or not? I've been looking at getting something like that but if I did put anything into this car I think I'd have to put some type of dynamat in the car to keep from the rattle and all of that crap.

so long as you don't go crazy, and play with your settings until they are right, you won't get any rattle. i have 2 jl 10's in my trunk and it sounds amazing inside but no rattle on the outside. the only area you may want to do, which i am gonna do in the spring just cuz i have some leftover dynamat, is the spare well. the carpeting used in the trunk has a good base layer and should handle most vibrations you would make. the spare well is bare metal.

The X type is built pretty solid and with all that padding in the trunk I don't get any rattle, but then again i don't really crank her up. I did have it pretty loud one day...no rattle and my boy said he hear the thump all the way in the house as I was pulling up in the driveway!!!

No how sweeet is that!

The infinity I have can be mounted anyway you want. I mounted mine against the left 1/4 panel. (took the least amount of space and I still have a trunk for emergancies)

After I removed my spare, it looked like it could fit in there as well....but it was too late since i already mounted it.

I'll get some pictures out this week.

With the factory radio still in, I replaced my front door speakers with some Jensen 6 1/2's and put 100Hz Bass Blockers in as well, it sounds real nice!! Now I just need a Sub...

I was just at circuit city friday night and they had some nice mtx sub enclosures. I want the 12 inch enclosure that they had that was like 200 dollas with an rms of like 450-500. I think it was a 7500 series mtx sub. The box appears smaller and would still leave room in the trunk.

Hey Guys,

I'm new to the forums and just wanted to thank you for all the help. I had been wanting to replace the speakers in my 2002 2.5 X-Type for a while but had been skeptical about it until I read this thread. I just installed two new Alpine speakers in the front doors and they sound great. Thanks!

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r38/jaycam0802/T15ESSJAG5.jpghttp://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r38/jaycam0802/X6JYMSAAB5.jpghttp://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r38/jaycam0802/AudiX6JYM-2.jpg

Great stuff aloiseau..............glad we were of help.
I'm sure there'll be more info that will be of great use to you. Checking out the FAQ's is always a good place to start too.

Cheers

Jim

Has anyone used bass blocker on the Alpine 9 speaker system?
Has anyone installed 1 inch tweeters w/o having to cut the door panels to make'em fit?

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r38/jaycam0802/T15ESSJAG5.jpghttp://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r38/jaycam0802/X6JYMSAAB5.jpghttp://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r38/jaycam0802/AudiX6JYM-2.jpg


Hey there AGLX..............I think that may be one for Nineball or maybe Aquill to answer.
If you dont get a reply pm them.........I'm not sure if there's anything in the FAQ's.........have you looked?

Jim

I looked and searched over & over again. Hopefully someone will chime in soon. I installed a sub amp in my 02 X with a Peripheral Hi/Low converter & I had to install a toggle switch that will touches the positive and negative factory sub amp speaker wires together. Without this no signal comes out of the factory sub amp. Only when positive & negative touch will the factory subamp play. I tried to put in serveral calls to Peripheral but who the hell can hold for an hour+ for someone to pick up? My buddy at a local car audio shop said I may have to install resistors but he's not sure which ones and he doesn't have time to hold on either until his shop slows down. I purchased two pairs of PAC 85hz bass blockers and I want to purchase and install two pairs of Blaupunkt GTc652 fromthe Cruthfield websiteto round out my system.

i have some thoughts, but answer me these:

are you running a seperate amp for the door speakers?

do you have factorytweeters in the doors, either set?

have you or are you planning on changing the hu?

where did you tap into for the low-level converter?

are you saying that you installed a new amp for the fatory sub setup?

did you have the full factory premium system to begin with?

running any subs other than the factory 6.5"?

what are your end goals?

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r38/jaycam0802/T15ESSJAG5.jpghttp://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r38/jaycam0802/X6JYMSAAB5.jpghttp://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r38/jaycam0802/AudiX6JYM-2.jpg


Errrrr there ya go AGLX................someone chiming in. Nineball as I guessed it would be....lol

Havin said that...........you got a shed load of more questions than you started with....lol
I'm sure if you answer them though you'll get the low down on what you need from Nineball

Good luck

Jim

Q. are you running a seperate amp for the door speakers?
A. Nope.

Q. do you have factorytweeters in the doors, either set?
A. Yup. All four.

Q. have you or are you planning on changing the hu?
A. Nope. Have factory navi & cassette player (02 X). I do plan to bid on a cd player on ebay and swap it out. The one I'm watching now is from an 03 X w/o navi. My hope is that I can detach the cd player form the a/c controls.

Q. where did you tap into for the low-level converter?
A. I disassembled the rear sub enclosure under the rear deck. Removed the sub & passive radiator and the bottom panel (incl.22 screws) so the bass can come through the rear deck. I tapped into the pos & neg speaker wire goin to the factory sub.

Q. are you saying that you installed a new amp for the fatory sub setup?
A. Yup. I installed a Peripheral Hi/Low converter on the factory amp& used rca cables to go into the amp (MTX TC4001). I tried to use the Hi level inputs on the amp but that didn't go over very well.

Q. did you have the full factory premium system to begin with?
A. Yup.

Q. running any subs other than the factory 6.5"?
A. 10w0 in a ported box. I had this sub installed in my 94 SHO stick with an Eclipse 3522 5 channel amp and it sounded really good. However this thang BANGS!!! on this MTX amp.

Q. what are your end goals?
A.I was considering installing an MTX 4004 and either Kicker 07DS650.2 or Blaupunkt GTc652 in all four doors. I'd prefer to just use the power from the premium head unit since my setup is not like the 04's where u can tap into everything from the rear of the car. Before my rear right speaker blew the system really sounded great so I prefer to install two sets of component speakers that will run well off of the factory power.

Thanks,
Nate

So you have removed the factory amp, sub and passive and essentially replaced them with the JL sub in it's own box with it's own amp. I really have no idea why you ned to cross the positive and negative leads to get a signal, maybe Dave can chime in with his thoughts on that. I have never experienced that in all my years of car audio. By doing this you no longer have a left and right channel, which goes against car audio principles. If I would have done it I would have tapped into a line going to a rear door speaker for the JL's input as you are esentailly amplifing the signal twice now (factory amp to your mtx amp) which is never a good thing to do. I personally have an 04 w/o the alpine system and I used a low-level converter directly behind the radio tappinging into the rear left speaker, then ran the rca to the trunk to my aftermarket subs.

Another thing to keep in mind is that the factory setup runs 2 speakers per channel (mid and tweet) so chances are good that they are each 8ohm speakers wired down to 4 ohm. From your posts it seems like you have only installed the blaupunkt mids as you can't get the tweets to fit. Get an ohm meter and test the new setup to see what ohm load it is running now. This could be the problem you are having with the blown speaker. The other possibility would have something to do with crossing those output wires to get your current sub signal. If memory serves the older factory sub input is tapped into one of the rear speakers.

Unless Dave chimes in with the specs, I would also suggest you take a multimeter and test the output of the factory head unit (power and ohms)and use that to match up to your new interior speakers. I would bet it is going to be a relatively low output, probably around 20-25rms per channel. The blaupunkts are rated at 50rms, so it shouldn't be a problem *assuming of course you install both the mid and the tweet in each door. The best solution you have is to use a surface mount for the rear doors, and in the front you can install them in the small panel at the front where the window meets the door. There is a thread on this board with detailed pics on how someone did it with theirs. This is not a perfect setup due to the distance between the mid and tweet, but it's the best you can do without making some fiberglass kick panels.

If you do end up replacing all interior speakers and getting a 4 channel amp, well that is a whole other can of worms. We will cross that bridge when and if we need to. I am still baffled by the need to cross those input lines to achieve a signal...

Nineball,

Thanks for your input. The factory amp is still in place inside the rear shelf sub enclosure. I tapped into the pos & neg output that would normally go to the sub. The tapping of the pos & neg is done very quickly and then the connection is broken. The don't stay connected for long. Without tapping them together the factory amp does not play. Weird!

Very. How does the input get to the factory amp? Would it be possible to tap there?

There's a cable that connects to the outside of the sub box which has a special connection so the best connection is to use the speaker leads from the factory amp to go to the hi/low converter than use rca cables from there to go into the input of the MTX amp. I installed a toggle switch and ran speaker wire to the driver seat to I can quickly flip on then off to get the factory amp to play when the car is on.

Does the factory amp in your case power all the interior speakers?

From the sounds of it the factory amp works it is the speaker that have the problem but I'm not for sure. Hey agl I can get pretty good deals on mb quart components if you were wanting components. I'll have to check my book and see...I know I can get their lower line of 5.25's for like 40 bucks. Pretty sure the esa 213 is the model that I get for like 40...link (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17726) for the set...

I forget how the speakers are powered on the alpine system...isn't there an amp somewhere for them, they can't just be powered by the headunit alone, right?

Q. Does the factory amp in your case power all the interior speakers?
A. Yup.

ORIGINAL: AGLXTYPE

Q. Does the factory amp in your case power all the interior speakers?
A. Yup.



Q. I forget how the speakers are powered on the alpine system...isn't there an amp somewhere for them, they can't just be powered by the headunit alone, right?
A. I believe they are powered by the head unit and not an external amp. Speaker wise I am leaning more toward the Kicker 07DS650.2 from Onlinecarstereo.com. They don't require much power and the tweets are 3/4 inch (19mm) so they should fit no problem in the factory location. Can you get me an even better deal on the Kickers? lol

Nate

Again, I may be wrong and will ask Dave to be sure, but I believe the pre-2004 alpine systems only had the sub powered by the amp and the interior were off the hu. I will find out.

Hi Agl,

The pre-2004 systems are powered by the head unit. The amp is connected off a spur between the speakers and the head unitto get the inputs for FR, FL, RR and RL, but as far as I am aware it only outputs to the subs. I can't see how it would work otherwise.

As to why you need to take the sub output to ground, there could be a couple of reasons. The fact that you only need to do it to start the system up suggests that the amp is geared for a lower resistance and the new amp you are driving from it has too high a resistance, causing nothing to flow. You could check by measuring the resistance and voltagebetween the two sub wires when starting without the new amp or old subs connected, with the subs connected, and with the new amp connected instead. There is an input from the head unit on pin 2 of the OEM amp connector that goes +12V when the audio system is activated, and goes to 0V when the system is switched off (i.e. a wakeup signal). You could use that to make a simple electrical switch when it rises, by replacing your toggle switch with a suitable capacitor, resistor and a small relay in place of the factory sub.You do need to find out why you are having to do that first though.

XDave,

Thanks for chiming in. I will give this info to my buddy over at the local stereo shop as he too said I may just need to add a resistor but he wanted to contact Peripheral first to see if the now what level resistor works best for the X.

btw, I order two pairs of PAC 85hz bass blockers and wanted to know if I'd be okay to use them on all four door componenet speakers? Or would that mess something up in the hu since that's the source of power for my 02 X?

Thanks.

Why do you want the bass blockers any component set you get should have the crossover with it which separates the signal...the mb quarts only take 35 rms...Good luck worse comes to worse add a 4channel amp to power the speakers with. You'll notice a huge difference if you do add a 4 channel amp especially if the speakers aren't amplified by an external amp...my brothers sport trac door speakers sound really good with the factory amp but the sub is kind of weak...