02 Jaguar Xtype 2.5L will not start??????????HELP
#1
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Plugs has Spark, Engine Cranks and there is fuel going into cylinders, but it will not start up any help would be great!!
about 42psi at the fuel rail, and plugs has spark..Battery is new. is there a timming issue some where???????
about 42psi at the fuel rail, and plugs has spark..Battery is new. is there a timming issue some where???????
Last edited by 03jaguardown; 12-19-2009 at 09:45 PM.
#2
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03, Unless you have jumped the timing (pretty hard to do in modern day cars), I would be venturing to guess that the injectors are not being told to open to inject fuel. First try to spray a little bit of starting fluid into the intake and see if the motor will catch with that (motor will run for a second or two). If so, then that is confirming a fuel injector issue (since you have verified the fuel rail as having pressure. Granted, 42 psi is a little on the low side. Not bad, but low. What is the fuel pressure with the engine cranking? You should see it drop a few pounds during cranking and then fall to around 35 psi with the engine running. if it is constant at 42 psi, then again, this is confirming an injector issue.
really, the only way for you to have a timing issue is for the timing chain to jump a few teeth, which will toss off the relationship of the cams to the crankshaft. This will then not allow air into the cylinder at the proper time for good combustion. You can confirm this by doing a compression test of the engine. Should be in the 150 psi range (the big thing you are looking for is all 6 cylinders are running about the same, up around 150 psi. If you have 3 down (odds are, all 3 will be on the same side), then you skipped a tooth or two on that side. If the low cylinder(s) are scattered about the engine, then you have a ring issue (ie, they are worn and need replacing).
I am assuming the car was running fine up to this point (ie, no check engine lights, running smooth, etc). If not, that could be playing into this.
About the only other thing that I can think of is you have managed to blow the fuse for the ECM and it happened to take out only the fuel injector portion of the ECU. There's a few different power inputs to the ECU, so, it is possible.
Let me know what you find out with the starter fluid and we'll take it from there.
really, the only way for you to have a timing issue is for the timing chain to jump a few teeth, which will toss off the relationship of the cams to the crankshaft. This will then not allow air into the cylinder at the proper time for good combustion. You can confirm this by doing a compression test of the engine. Should be in the 150 psi range (the big thing you are looking for is all 6 cylinders are running about the same, up around 150 psi. If you have 3 down (odds are, all 3 will be on the same side), then you skipped a tooth or two on that side. If the low cylinder(s) are scattered about the engine, then you have a ring issue (ie, they are worn and need replacing).
I am assuming the car was running fine up to this point (ie, no check engine lights, running smooth, etc). If not, that could be playing into this.
About the only other thing that I can think of is you have managed to blow the fuse for the ECM and it happened to take out only the fuel injector portion of the ECU. There's a few different power inputs to the ECU, so, it is possible.
Let me know what you find out with the starter fluid and we'll take it from there.
#3
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03, Unless you have jumped the timing (pretty hard to do in modern day cars), I would be venturing to guess that the injectors are not being told to open to inject fuel. First try to spray a little bit of starting fluid into the intake and see if the motor will catch with that (motor will run for a second or two). If so, then that is confirming a fuel injector issue (since you have verified the fuel rail as having pressure. Granted, 42 psi is a little on the low side. Not bad, but low. What is the fuel pressure with the engine cranking? You should see it drop a few pounds during cranking and then fall to around 35 psi with the engine running. if it is constant at 42 psi, then again, this is confirming an injector issue.
really, the only way for you to have a timing issue is for the timing chain to jump a few teeth, which will toss off the relationship of the cams to the crankshaft. This will then not allow air into the cylinder at the proper time for good combustion. You can confirm this by doing a compression test of the engine. Should be in the 150 psi range (the big thing you are looking for is all 6 cylinders are running about the same, up around 150 psi. If you have 3 down (odds are, all 3 will be on the same side), then you skipped a tooth or two on that side. If the low cylinder(s) are scattered about the engine, then you have a ring issue (ie, they are worn and need replacing).
I am assuming the car was running fine up to this point (ie, no check engine lights, running smooth, etc). If not, that could be playing into this.
About the only other thing that I can think of is you have managed to blow the fuse for the ECM and it happened to take out only the fuel injector portion of the ECU. There's a few different power inputs to the ECU, so, it is possible.
Let me know what you find out with the starter fluid and we'll take it from there.
really, the only way for you to have a timing issue is for the timing chain to jump a few teeth, which will toss off the relationship of the cams to the crankshaft. This will then not allow air into the cylinder at the proper time for good combustion. You can confirm this by doing a compression test of the engine. Should be in the 150 psi range (the big thing you are looking for is all 6 cylinders are running about the same, up around 150 psi. If you have 3 down (odds are, all 3 will be on the same side), then you skipped a tooth or two on that side. If the low cylinder(s) are scattered about the engine, then you have a ring issue (ie, they are worn and need replacing).
I am assuming the car was running fine up to this point (ie, no check engine lights, running smooth, etc). If not, that could be playing into this.
About the only other thing that I can think of is you have managed to blow the fuse for the ECM and it happened to take out only the fuel injector portion of the ECU. There's a few different power inputs to the ECU, so, it is possible.
Let me know what you find out with the starter fluid and we'll take it from there.
im getting fuel to the plugs for sure.. as i removed the three front and there wet, and good spark to the plugs while cranking( I had a friend hold them to ground while i crank ). could this be a bad crank sensor? or that fuse your saying for the ECU?
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03, if your plugs are wet, then you have managed to flood the engine. You need to get the current gas out of the cylinders and then attempt to start the car at that point. The easiest way I can think of at the moment is to pull each plug, then use some compressed air to blow out each cylinder. From there you can clean up each plug and re-install them.
It isn't a bad crank sensor as the engine would still run as the computer has the ability to look at other sensors and get a fairly good idea of when it should fire the cylinder.
As for the fuses, take a look at Fuse #32 and #37 under the dash to make sure they are good. The rest of the power is coming via the ignition switch and would require a multimeter to confirm if you have it or not. From the sounds of things, you do.
I am chalking this one up to a flooded engine. Sometimes if you let the car set for a few days, the motor can unflood itself. Another member just recently had this happen to him too. So, it is not outside the realm of possibilities.
It isn't a bad crank sensor as the engine would still run as the computer has the ability to look at other sensors and get a fairly good idea of when it should fire the cylinder.
As for the fuses, take a look at Fuse #32 and #37 under the dash to make sure they are good. The rest of the power is coming via the ignition switch and would require a multimeter to confirm if you have it or not. From the sounds of things, you do.
I am chalking this one up to a flooded engine. Sometimes if you let the car set for a few days, the motor can unflood itself. Another member just recently had this happen to him too. So, it is not outside the realm of possibilities.
#5
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i would remove the spark plugs and let the cylinders dry out ... what codes do u have ? on x-types there is a ground cable that right on the alternator housing or braket i cant remember ... they put glue on there and sometimes and it kills the signal ... but without codes its kinda hard to diag these cars without being there in person ... drop me a pm with the codes
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