S Type fuel door latch
#61
My fuel filler lid worked fine from the dash switch,but the emergency release cable in the trunk was inoperative.I have just completed removing the assembly and fixing the emergency release cable,which just needed freeing up and lubricating where it went into the actuator.So now it is back in place and both actuation modes are functional.
The point here is that my car is a 2004 and has a different design of latch and actuator.For anyone with a 2005 and up may want to look at fitting a 2000-2004 type latch motor assembly.I am not sure if would be necessary to change the door as well since I am not familiar with the 2005 door.
The point here is that my car is a 2004 and has a different design of latch and actuator.For anyone with a 2005 and up may want to look at fitting a 2000-2004 type latch motor assembly.I am not sure if would be necessary to change the door as well since I am not familiar with the 2005 door.
#62
Add me to the list (broken fuel door pin)
My fuel door was stuck on my last fill. Had to break the plastic pin to open it. I wish I would have seen this thread and lubed the pin before this happened. Not sure if I'm going to replace the parts or remove the spring. I will look closely at it soon and render a decision on modifying or just replacing the parts. This appears to be the first pin failure on my 2005 STR with almost 75K miles.
#63
Keep us posted on what approach you decide to take....
My 2005 S-Type is on its third plastic pin (both latch failures occuring while the car was still under the factory warranty). I've kept this third plastic pin generously lubed with white lithium grease since it was installed in 2009, and that seems to have done the trick....
My 2005 S-Type is on its third plastic pin (both latch failures occuring while the car was still under the factory warranty). I've kept this third plastic pin generously lubed with white lithium grease since it was installed in 2009, and that seems to have done the trick....
#64
#65
Thank you guys for refreshing this thread, because I was not previously aware of this problem. I have obviously been living on borrowed time here, all the while being ultra-fussy about keeping the fuel hatch compartment clean and dry on my '05 STR with 61K miles. Now the entire latching mechanism has been carefully lubed with lithium grease.
#67
#68
#69
S Type fuel door actuator
I recently had an unpleasant experience when trying to buy a fuel door actuator for my 2005 S-Type. The online parts stores could not come up with the electric actuator and would only reference some of he plastic pins and release pieces. They refused to look under the electrical section of their parts catalog and would only refer me to pieces in the body panel section. Out of frustration I bought a fuel door actuator for a Volkswagen Jetta. This is a Siemens/VDO manufactured part and is identical to the one that was in my Jag. I don't recommend this practice but was left with no other choice.
The following users liked this post:
Jumpin' Jag Flash (08-05-2013)
#70
I recently had an unpleasant experience when trying to buy a fuel door actuator for my 2005 S-Type.... Out of frustration I bought a fuel door actuator for a Volkswagen Jetta. This is a Siemens/VDO manufactured part and is identical to the one that was in my Jag. I don't recommend this practice but was left with no other choice.
Would be interesting to see examples of parts from other non-Jag sources that can be used on the Jag S-type. For instance:
Fuel door activator.......... Volkswagen Jetta
Battery.......................... Interstate, Optima
Wiper blades.................. Napa
Fuel pump..................... Europarts
Radiator........................ ?????
S/C coolant recirc pump.. Europarts
#71
#72
#73
Simple Job, Thanks
Hi Guys and Gals,
Just thought I would say thank you for this thread. I have a 55 plate UK S-Type 2.7 V6 diesel and the pin that retains the fuel door in sheared, as per this thread after 9 years of owning the car!
Just bought a XR857532 pin and actuator for £15.64 + VAT (£18.77) from H.A. Fox's Parts Department in Guildford, Surrey, UK. Gave them a call and they had one in stock! Very helpful guy there, who "knew his onions" as such - even checked the VIN to match the part to ensure it was the right one!
Removed boot floor liner, and RHS boot lining pulled back, removed four 10mm bolts holding the black plate in, disconnected wiring connector from existing actuator and undid one screw nearest the opening on actuator (not removing but loosening - keyhole mounted), and the old broken part popped out nicely. Put new part in and reversed removal instructions to complete. Took 22 minutes (couldn't find a 10mm spanner and 60mm ratchet extender in the garage)!
Was debating a homebrew self engineered replacement, but at £18 for new pin and new actuator, and 20 minutes of my time, seemed like a far better option! The weather was even on my side!
Just to mention the replacement part was identical except for the actuator to metal arm coupling, which now ensured that the pin is at 90 degrees to the motion, rather than allow it to be slightly offset...
Many thanks.
James.
Just thought I would say thank you for this thread. I have a 55 plate UK S-Type 2.7 V6 diesel and the pin that retains the fuel door in sheared, as per this thread after 9 years of owning the car!
Just bought a XR857532 pin and actuator for £15.64 + VAT (£18.77) from H.A. Fox's Parts Department in Guildford, Surrey, UK. Gave them a call and they had one in stock! Very helpful guy there, who "knew his onions" as such - even checked the VIN to match the part to ensure it was the right one!
Removed boot floor liner, and RHS boot lining pulled back, removed four 10mm bolts holding the black plate in, disconnected wiring connector from existing actuator and undid one screw nearest the opening on actuator (not removing but loosening - keyhole mounted), and the old broken part popped out nicely. Put new part in and reversed removal instructions to complete. Took 22 minutes (couldn't find a 10mm spanner and 60mm ratchet extender in the garage)!
Was debating a homebrew self engineered replacement, but at £18 for new pin and new actuator, and 20 minutes of my time, seemed like a far better option! The weather was even on my side!
Just to mention the replacement part was identical except for the actuator to metal arm coupling, which now ensured that the pin is at 90 degrees to the motion, rather than allow it to be slightly offset...
Many thanks.
James.
The following users liked this post:
Jumpin' Jag Flash (10-25-2013)
#74
#75
My pin just broke off the actuator... I was able to remove the entire actuator, but the broken part seems to only be the black pin that "was" attached to the end. It is missing now. How... or what part do I buy for replacement? 2005 Jag s-type USA
Last edited by BKSinAZ; 10-13-2013 at 02:21 PM.
#76
Mine broke about 3 years ago so I went into my garage and found a piece of pretty thin sheet metal. Something that could be bent in a vice with a hammer or pliers without being heated or anything. I fabricated a replacement in about 15 minutes. It's worked like a charm for over 3 years. No more plastic crap to break!!
#77
#79
#80