XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006
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  #2  
Old 12-19-2009, 11:42 PM
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Default Replacing 2001 XJ Dash Light Bulbs

I just completed this in 2 hours... There are 4 bulbs (#194) that are reasonably simple to access WITHOUT disconnecting the battery. Directions --with photos-- are in the PDF FILE ...
 
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Old 12-20-2009, 03:24 AM
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Nice one shw.
 
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Old 04-28-2010, 10:05 AM
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Default XK8 Dash Lights

I have logged in but am unable to open this .pdf file:

I just completed this in 2 hours... There are 4 bulbs (#194) that are reasonably simple to access WITHOUT disconnecting the battery. Directions --with photos-- are in the PDF FILE ...
Attached FilesDash Bulb Replacement _10-steps_.pdf (1.19 MB, 12 views)
Can anyone tell me how to remove the dash panels to replace dash lights?
Thank you!!
drvii (at) hotmail.com
 
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Old 04-28-2010, 11:16 AM
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Dave, New members with fresh registrations can't access images and documents attached using jagforum servers (outside links and images work just fine)

There is a PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE read thread at the top of the New Member Section, it explains all. Remember 3d/10 as a guideline.

Answered your email also.
 
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Old 04-29-2010, 08:15 AM
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Thanks Matt,
Got your email and sure appreciate the tips. I didn't know about the new guy page but just read it. Actually I'm not new to the exciting world of forums as I've been involved in several for years. Is there a chance you or anyone could email me the .pdf listed in my last post so I can see the process I'm trying to attempt?
Thanks,
Dave
 
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Old 11-19-2010, 04:36 AM
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I just bought a 1997 xk8, are the gages in the center oil, clock and battery suppose to light also?
 
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Old 11-19-2010, 05:12 AM
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Yes those gauges all light up. There is central power to the bulbs in that cluster.
 
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:25 AM
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doing this off of memory but i think this will help. first move the steering wheel all the way down and out. next remove the knee bolster then i believe there are two screws at the lower and outer instrument dash wood panel. next remove the center dash wood grain panel (it just snaps in and out) then remove screws on the outside of the instrument panel wood. next remove the driver a/c panel vent and remove the screw on that side of the inst pack woodgrain. after that the instrument pack woodgrain should come off and then theres just 4 more bolts and the instrument pack will come out.
 
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Old 11-19-2010, 10:37 PM
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Ok Thanks, I need to check for B+ at the gages first, if none present, you are saying they are fed from the main speedo cluster, thats where central power comes from for the oil, clock and battery gages.. Thanks i will check it out
 
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by shw57
I just completed this in 2 hours... There are 4 bulbs (#194) that are reasonably simple to access WITHOUT disconnecting the battery. Directions --with photos-- are in the PDF FILE ...
I have just spent 2 hours replacing all my main instrument cluster bulbs and found the PDF very useful. Thanks

I would just point out, however, that on my 2005 I was not able to remove the instrument pod without disconnecting the two main connectors/power supplies. Once I had plucked up the courage to do this, it was relatively simple and I encountered no problems accessing and replacing the bulbs.

Still a PITA, though, when you consider how often these bulbs must blow.
 
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Frog
I have just spent 2 hours replacing all my main instrument cluster bulbs and found the PDF very useful. Thanks

I would just point out, however, that on my 2005 I was not able to remove the instrument pod without disconnecting the two main connectors/power supplies. Once I had plucked up the courage to do this, it was relatively simple and I encountered no problems accessing and replacing the bulbs.

Still a PITA, though, when you consider how often these bulbs must blow.

Are their any led alternatives (they need to allow dimming) that could be used and last longer?
 
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Old 04-08-2020, 07:42 AM
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A couple of observations regarding the PDF. I disconnected the battery immediately after putting the steering wheel fully lower and fully back, otherwise it goes straight back in. I also took out the knee panel to expose the lower screws. I would advocate disconnecting the yellow and black snap connectors at the base of the instrument cluster, as the cluster itself has a sticker saying 'Do Not Store Lens Down', which is the method that the PDF advocates. I will only reconnect the battery once the cluster is reconnected.

There are replacement LEDs available, but go to an expert retailer. I chose normal bulbs, Osram Ultra Life W5W or type 501 Capless Push fit bulbs, because I'm confident they'll see out the life of the car. They are rated at 12V and 5W, although the legend on the old bulb read 14v and 3.4W.

I'm tempted to renew the smaller warning bulbs too, which drive the full beam and other warning lights at the base of the cluster, but am struggling to find a code. The bulb bear the legend 61431 H1
 
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Old 04-08-2020, 07:53 AM
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After a couple of false starts I replaced all my bulbs(might as well while they are out). Used LEDs on the larger, but could not find for the smaller ones. If you have the RealGauge conversion, use care as the microcircuitry driver is usually attached to the top of the cluster and can be damaged in the process. I am getting a CEL and 'Oil Temp sensory' fail code, that I think may be because of my lack of care to this connection.
 
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Old 04-08-2020, 07:59 AM
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Thanks Sam, I suspect that the word 'CANBUS' is used to denote LEDs that have a similar impedance to ordinary bulbs and should not flag up a warning. I have found the part number for the smaller warning light bulbs -XR8386. They are available from a couple of vendors, so I'll probably just order them up. They appear to be bespoke Jaguar items without a mass market equivalent.

Cheers,
 
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Old 04-08-2020, 08:48 AM
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Not sure about 'CANBUs". I thought that was the funny weeds we all smoked in college, and now invest in??
I ordered the LEDs thru Amazon, and since none would fit the small 'peanut' light, went to my fall back, AutoZone. New store with everything in it. NO Peanut light. Then to NAPA, no peanuts, except salted in a package. Finally went to O'Reilly's. They had everything, except LED peanuts. HAd to get the incandescent version, but they worked. Next time I will start with o'Reilly(Not an advertisement, just the facts).
 
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  #17  
Old 11-07-2021, 11:13 AM
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Default Polarity marking LED replacement

How to determine and mark polarity on the new led replacement bulbs please?
thank you
Mark
 
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Old 11-07-2021, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Markmbaha1
How to determine and mark polarity on the new led replacement bulbs please?
thank you
Mark

check out my recent post on the instrument bulb replacement. The Sylvania bulbs I used were polarity marked. See photo in post below. If yours are not marked then you can use a flashlight battery or any battery 12v or less to test the LED bulb. I sourced all the bulbs in the photo thru Amazon. No availability issues.

The panel positives are all the lower ones .


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...garage-252577/
 
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  #19  
Old 11-08-2021, 05:56 AM
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Default Ckeaning dash plastic while out replacing bulbs

While we have the dashboard out, it's a perfect time to ckean the clear plastic covering that protects the front of the gagues. What is your preferred Non Scratch method to ckean this?
Thank you.
Mark
 
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Old 11-08-2021, 06:21 AM
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Dampened old worn-out cotton diapers. I have several of them. They are ideal for cleaning glass and clear plastic and continue to hold up quite well in the washing machine and dryer....
 
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