Additives in the ZF6HP26 autobox.
#1
11-12-2010, 02:48 PM
Additives in the ZF6HP26 autobox.
As promised some while back, here's the report on additives to this gearbox of which mine has done 121,000mile.
After changing the ATF fluid most of the noises (expensive-sounding noises) vanished. Previously it also had a quite vicious shudder like the "cattle-grid" effect. I used fair quality full-synthetic fluid. But I was left with a "shudder" now and again, partic. in gear 3. This shudder was most capricious, sometimes it would do it, sometimes not.
The first additive I tried was "Lucas Transmission Fix, Stops Slip", as it's easy to get in UK. The amount used was a 20% by volume solution. After a few days to let it 'bed-in', it appeared to sort the problem, but then it came back. After fitting my own fluid temperature gauge, (see my posting elsewhere) I could see the shudder only happened when the ATF fluid was above around 85*C. Down at 60*C no shudder under any condition. Curiously also, the shudder only happened on certain roads which were moderate uphill gradients. It would be fair to say that the "Lucas" made the shifts a little sharper, but did not cure the shudder.
At first I was suspecting serious wear on clutchpack B, but checking opinions on the i/net, it seemed very likely it was torque-converter lockup clutch shudder. Not a single person mentioned the clutchpacks. Now this lockup clutch is a funny one. It's not an "either-in-or-out" clutch -- it's the latest design where it can be continually slipping, quite deliberately. It's called a 'modulated' clutch, and ZF is not the only maker using this idea. But the clue is just how and when this clutch is made to slip on purpose. It's when it encounters a modest demand for power, not just gliding along on the level, not at full power either, but going up moderate gradients. Ah-ha! I thought.
So with great difficulty here in UK, I acquired TWO red tubes at 2oz. each of "Dr Tranny's Instant Shudder Fixx". (I think it should really be "Dr. Tranny's Instantaneous Shudder Fixx") and managed to get most of the two tubes into the box -- ZF don't exactly make it easy. I must have spilled half an ounce. Peculiar stuff it is, feels just like washing up liquid, except it's red.
After allowing a few days and a few miles to bed in, I tested the car at full box temperature in three different places in Bradford where I knew it would shudder -- result, NO SHUDDER. The shudderfix was stopping the 'stick-slip' effect from the clutch by modifying friction close to full grip.
So....It appears that Dr. Tranny's magic fluid does what it says on the tin (UK joke). It remains to be seen just how long it will last. I'm hoping it will last as long as possible. The additive is made by "Lubegard" who make other interesting additives for autoboxes, and they claim to be OEM suppliers. It does not appear to be affected by being mixed with the Lucas additive. Maybe the two additives will work well together, who knows? We shall see what we shall see. I will report any future untoward effects.
Useful supplier of Shudderfixx et al, UK:--
Royce Power Transmissions (North)
Royce House, Standard Way Ind. Est.
Northallerton, North Yorkshire.
DL6-2XE.
Tel. 01609 774 477
Fax. 01609 770 118.
Contact, Richard.
Price, £9, plus VAT extra, plus p&p. (£23:50 for my two).
If you want some, check with Richard if he has any fresh stock as I had the last two tubes.
Here's some tips:
This box is a fiddly pig of a job to change/add fluid. You have to drain it via a plastic drain plug using a 10mm. allen key/hexwrench, which isn't bad so long as you remember it IS PLASTIC when you re-tighten, and you have to fill via a silly little hole in the side of the box way up where it's hard to get at, RHS near the cooler lines. There's a handy silencer close by, just perfect for burning your arm. So best do the job warm not hot! The daft filler has a 5mm. allen key/hexwrench hole, and is on quite tight. There is a little nylon washer to be aware of.
Now, so long as the box hasn't been leaking, if you follow the principle of only taking out the same amount as you put in, there'll be no need for ramps/lifts, a pit or suchlike. The car doesn't even have to be level. So you'll need a measuring jug for what you take out, litres in my case.
Re. filling it, there are on the market adaptors complete with a tube that will fit onto that difficult filler hole, I know there are 'cause I've seen pictures. Otherwise make something yourself. I used a 10mm. copper rightangle bend as used by plumbers for gas piping. These have a little bulge where the solder is under (the 'solder-ring'), very handy for holding a plastic tube. You'll need a rubber grommet or similar to seal the opening. The whole assy. has to be held firmly against the filler hole with a block of wood sawn to exactly the right length. Be warned, there is a piece of metal right in the way of the fluid inside the box, so the fluid you're inserting has to squirt sideways once in. The exit of your rightangle bend has to be just the right length, abt. half an inch. You need to cut a "V" in it to ease the fluid past the obstruction. I suppose if you can find a bolt that fits the filler thread, you could cut it to a suitable length and drill a hole down the centre, this would be much better, more positive. Have an old towel handy, as you will spill some fluid to be sure. Such fun and games with ZF.
Because you can't pour the fluid in from above, you have to pump it in from below, using the aforementioned adaptor. You need a pump. So it's buy, borrow, or make it yourself. I made a pump out of an old enormous grease-gun I'd not used for thirty years I knew it would come in useful one day. I cleaned it out, sawed off the end where you put the grease in, mounted it vertically downward onto a piece of wood with brackets and jubilee clips, and used some plastic tubing on the output end to the adaptor into gearbox. It held nigh on a litre of fluid and worked ok, if a bit slow. Maybe you could even change the ATF fluid itself this way so long as you followed that principle, "same-out, same-in". It would be a lot of pumping. If you're just adding the shudderfixx, by cutting off the end of the tube just right, it will fit over the right size plastic tube as mine did, and you can squeeze the red shudderfixx tube like it was toothpaste to get it in. No pump necessary. Be VERY careful the tube doesn't become detached, it will squirt everywhere! A foot-pump/tyre inflator then gets in the last bit left in the plastic tube.
Anyhow,
Cost of a recon. autobox and removing/refitting -- around £1500.
Cost of what's done so far -- less than £300 -- and knowing what I know now, could be half that!
I agree, the fix might not last a long time, however, I've read complaints that recon. boxes only have lasted a matter of weeks, so you have to trust to luck.
Leedsman.
After changing the ATF fluid most of the noises (expensive-sounding noises) vanished. Previously it also had a quite vicious shudder like the "cattle-grid" effect. I used fair quality full-synthetic fluid. But I was left with a "shudder" now and again, partic. in gear 3. This shudder was most capricious, sometimes it would do it, sometimes not.
The first additive I tried was "Lucas Transmission Fix, Stops Slip", as it's easy to get in UK. The amount used was a 20% by volume solution. After a few days to let it 'bed-in', it appeared to sort the problem, but then it came back. After fitting my own fluid temperature gauge, (see my posting elsewhere) I could see the shudder only happened when the ATF fluid was above around 85*C. Down at 60*C no shudder under any condition. Curiously also, the shudder only happened on certain roads which were moderate uphill gradients. It would be fair to say that the "Lucas" made the shifts a little sharper, but did not cure the shudder.
At first I was suspecting serious wear on clutchpack B, but checking opinions on the i/net, it seemed very likely it was torque-converter lockup clutch shudder. Not a single person mentioned the clutchpacks. Now this lockup clutch is a funny one. It's not an "either-in-or-out" clutch -- it's the latest design where it can be continually slipping, quite deliberately. It's called a 'modulated' clutch, and ZF is not the only maker using this idea. But the clue is just how and when this clutch is made to slip on purpose. It's when it encounters a modest demand for power, not just gliding along on the level, not at full power either, but going up moderate gradients. Ah-ha! I thought.
So with great difficulty here in UK, I acquired TWO red tubes at 2oz. each of "Dr Tranny's Instant Shudder Fixx". (I think it should really be "Dr. Tranny's Instantaneous Shudder Fixx") and managed to get most of the two tubes into the box -- ZF don't exactly make it easy. I must have spilled half an ounce. Peculiar stuff it is, feels just like washing up liquid, except it's red.
After allowing a few days and a few miles to bed in, I tested the car at full box temperature in three different places in Bradford where I knew it would shudder -- result, NO SHUDDER. The shudderfix was stopping the 'stick-slip' effect from the clutch by modifying friction close to full grip.
So....It appears that Dr. Tranny's magic fluid does what it says on the tin (UK joke). It remains to be seen just how long it will last. I'm hoping it will last as long as possible. The additive is made by "Lubegard" who make other interesting additives for autoboxes, and they claim to be OEM suppliers. It does not appear to be affected by being mixed with the Lucas additive. Maybe the two additives will work well together, who knows? We shall see what we shall see. I will report any future untoward effects.
Useful supplier of Shudderfixx et al, UK:--
Royce Power Transmissions (North)
Royce House, Standard Way Ind. Est.
Northallerton, North Yorkshire.
DL6-2XE.
Tel. 01609 774 477
Fax. 01609 770 118.
Contact, Richard.
Price, £9, plus VAT extra, plus p&p. (£23:50 for my two).
If you want some, check with Richard if he has any fresh stock as I had the last two tubes.
Here's some tips:
This box is a fiddly pig of a job to change/add fluid. You have to drain it via a plastic drain plug using a 10mm. allen key/hexwrench, which isn't bad so long as you remember it IS PLASTIC when you re-tighten, and you have to fill via a silly little hole in the side of the box way up where it's hard to get at, RHS near the cooler lines. There's a handy silencer close by, just perfect for burning your arm. So best do the job warm not hot! The daft filler has a 5mm. allen key/hexwrench hole, and is on quite tight. There is a little nylon washer to be aware of.
Now, so long as the box hasn't been leaking, if you follow the principle of only taking out the same amount as you put in, there'll be no need for ramps/lifts, a pit or suchlike. The car doesn't even have to be level. So you'll need a measuring jug for what you take out, litres in my case.
Re. filling it, there are on the market adaptors complete with a tube that will fit onto that difficult filler hole, I know there are 'cause I've seen pictures. Otherwise make something yourself. I used a 10mm. copper rightangle bend as used by plumbers for gas piping. These have a little bulge where the solder is under (the 'solder-ring'), very handy for holding a plastic tube. You'll need a rubber grommet or similar to seal the opening. The whole assy. has to be held firmly against the filler hole with a block of wood sawn to exactly the right length. Be warned, there is a piece of metal right in the way of the fluid inside the box, so the fluid you're inserting has to squirt sideways once in. The exit of your rightangle bend has to be just the right length, abt. half an inch. You need to cut a "V" in it to ease the fluid past the obstruction. I suppose if you can find a bolt that fits the filler thread, you could cut it to a suitable length and drill a hole down the centre, this would be much better, more positive. Have an old towel handy, as you will spill some fluid to be sure. Such fun and games with ZF.
Because you can't pour the fluid in from above, you have to pump it in from below, using the aforementioned adaptor. You need a pump. So it's buy, borrow, or make it yourself. I made a pump out of an old enormous grease-gun I'd not used for thirty years I knew it would come in useful one day. I cleaned it out, sawed off the end where you put the grease in, mounted it vertically downward onto a piece of wood with brackets and jubilee clips, and used some plastic tubing on the output end to the adaptor into gearbox. It held nigh on a litre of fluid and worked ok, if a bit slow. Maybe you could even change the ATF fluid itself this way so long as you followed that principle, "same-out, same-in". It would be a lot of pumping. If you're just adding the shudderfixx, by cutting off the end of the tube just right, it will fit over the right size plastic tube as mine did, and you can squeeze the red shudderfixx tube like it was toothpaste to get it in. No pump necessary. Be VERY careful the tube doesn't become detached, it will squirt everywhere! A foot-pump/tyre inflator then gets in the last bit left in the plastic tube.
Anyhow,
Cost of a recon. autobox and removing/refitting -- around £1500.
Cost of what's done so far -- less than £300 -- and knowing what I know now, could be half that!
I agree, the fix might not last a long time, however, I've read complaints that recon. boxes only have lasted a matter of weeks, so you have to trust to luck.
Leedsman.
#2
11-12-2010, 03:51 PM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: PHX some of the time
Posts: 116,690
Received 6,242 Likes
on
5,443 Posts
Hi Leedsman,
Good write up and I hope it continues to work for you.
I understand it was a case of "need must" for you but it is interesting to compare the hand wringing on other threads about whether it is possible to use an alternative brand of ATF to the super expensive ZF brew and now yours is full of snakeoil.
Keep us updated on how it goes.
Good write up and I hope it continues to work for you.
I understand it was a case of "need must" for you but it is interesting to compare the hand wringing on other threads about whether it is possible to use an alternative brand of ATF to the super expensive ZF brew and now yours is full of snakeoil.
Keep us updated on how it goes.
#3
11-13-2010, 04:06 AM
Snake-oil is not an expression commonly used in UK, but I understood it to be a kind of medicine used in US around the 19th.C.
As regards the additives used, my conclusion about the Lubegard one called "Dr. Tranny's Instant Shudder Fixx" is simply a concentration of friction modifiers, similar or same as the ones found in ATF fluid specially mixed for this type of continuously slipping converter clutch design, e.g. the ATF Shell M1375.4 spec. (The Shell fluid itself BTW. is full-synthetic, it says so on the pix. of their barrels I've seen). The amount used which is tiny, tallies with the concentrations suggested by the boffins, i.e. around or less than 1% by vol. Maybe someone from Lubegard could comment if reading this?
Re. the Lucas additive, it seems to be completely different in its intention. To me it looks like a viscosity improver, reducing the thinning effect of temperature on the ATF fluid. It's probably suitable polymers to achieve this end. No doubt there are other substances in there too, but the makers are not going to declare to the world in general just what they are! BTW there is a new polymer for viscosity with a new molecular structure having a much longer life under heat cycling conditions, I believe handled by a company called Lubrizol. Suffice it to say that the shudderfixx was the one that fixed my partic. problem, and the science seems to back up the logic.
If one understand how things work, one is much more likely to solve problems effectively and hopefully, permanently.
Leedsman.
As regards the additives used, my conclusion about the Lubegard one called "Dr. Tranny's Instant Shudder Fixx" is simply a concentration of friction modifiers, similar or same as the ones found in ATF fluid specially mixed for this type of continuously slipping converter clutch design, e.g. the ATF Shell M1375.4 spec. (The Shell fluid itself BTW. is full-synthetic, it says so on the pix. of their barrels I've seen). The amount used which is tiny, tallies with the concentrations suggested by the boffins, i.e. around or less than 1% by vol. Maybe someone from Lubegard could comment if reading this?
Re. the Lucas additive, it seems to be completely different in its intention. To me it looks like a viscosity improver, reducing the thinning effect of temperature on the ATF fluid. It's probably suitable polymers to achieve this end. No doubt there are other substances in there too, but the makers are not going to declare to the world in general just what they are! BTW there is a new polymer for viscosity with a new molecular structure having a much longer life under heat cycling conditions, I believe handled by a company called Lubrizol. Suffice it to say that the shudderfixx was the one that fixed my partic. problem, and the science seems to back up the logic.
If one understand how things work, one is much more likely to solve problems effectively and hopefully, permanently.
Leedsman.
#4
11-13-2010, 04:45 AM
Now then, it just so happens that mine is booked in next Monday (29th) for additive to be put in to cure "the squawk". The ONLY additive that is suitable and recommended is ZF's OWN brand. LIFEGUARD 1
It is possible to get the stuff from main dealers but it is expensive. 1 litre bottles and it MUST be added when the trans. is cold.
Leedsman, mine is being done by my independent in Wakefield
It is possible to get the stuff from main dealers but it is expensive. 1 litre bottles and it MUST be added when the trans. is cold.
Leedsman, mine is being done by my independent in Wakefield
#5
11-13-2010, 11:06 AM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: PHX some of the time
Posts: 116,690
Received 6,242 Likes
on
5,443 Posts
I wasn't passing an opinion only posting a comment.
However I have to disagree about snake oil, I'm sure most Brits would know what it is, even the Scaffolds Medicinal compound was based on snake oil sold by Lydia Pinkham.
We'll drink a drink a drink
To Lily the Pink the Pink the Pink
The saviour of the human race
For she invented medicinal compound
Most efficacious in every case.
As I said keep us informed on how it works.
However I have to disagree about snake oil, I'm sure most Brits would know what it is, even the Scaffolds Medicinal compound was based on snake oil sold by Lydia Pinkham.
We'll drink a drink a drink
To Lily the Pink the Pink the Pink
The saviour of the human race
For she invented medicinal compound
Most efficacious in every case.
As I said keep us informed on how it works.
#6
11-14-2010, 03:36 AM
Hope everything turns out ok for your anti-sqawk treatment, Victor. Did you know about the guy in Dewsbury (on Hudds. Rd.) who specializes in Jag. repair? He has a foremen who seems to be on the ball about Jags. The guy doesn't rip-U-off either.
In regard of oils, I wouldn't think ZF will manufacture their own oils and additives, but use oils from the big oil companies formulated to ZF spec. especially the additives. The base ATF oil is just the same stuff as any other, but of a suitable viscosity. It's the additives blended in that make it suitable as a partic. ATF. It's my feeling that some large car makers like Jaguar, Audi, BMW, Mercedes et al are simply passing on oils made by the big oil companies, but with enormous mark-ups. I don't and will not subscribe to this practice, not because I can't afford it, but because I disagree with it. As an electronics and tv/audio engineer, I only ever charged a fair and reasonable rate for what I did. If my diagnosis was incorrect, there was no charge. Most of the problems surrounding ZF autoboxes seem to be about the triumph of marketing over engineering common sense, i.e. the so-called "sealed for life" nonsense. This must have made things pretty embarrassing for ZF. To be even handed, it would appear that CVT and DSG autoboxes can be even more expensive to fix when they go wrong, and users are reporting that problems can arise after only 25,000mile or so. I don't see the ZF boxes as basically bad at all, just the marketing strategy as very unfortunate and mis-placed. There could be also mis-selling involved in that description, "sealed for life".
Leedsman.
In regard of oils, I wouldn't think ZF will manufacture their own oils and additives, but use oils from the big oil companies formulated to ZF spec. especially the additives. The base ATF oil is just the same stuff as any other, but of a suitable viscosity. It's the additives blended in that make it suitable as a partic. ATF. It's my feeling that some large car makers like Jaguar, Audi, BMW, Mercedes et al are simply passing on oils made by the big oil companies, but with enormous mark-ups. I don't and will not subscribe to this practice, not because I can't afford it, but because I disagree with it. As an electronics and tv/audio engineer, I only ever charged a fair and reasonable rate for what I did. If my diagnosis was incorrect, there was no charge. Most of the problems surrounding ZF autoboxes seem to be about the triumph of marketing over engineering common sense, i.e. the so-called "sealed for life" nonsense. This must have made things pretty embarrassing for ZF. To be even handed, it would appear that CVT and DSG autoboxes can be even more expensive to fix when they go wrong, and users are reporting that problems can arise after only 25,000mile or so. I don't see the ZF boxes as basically bad at all, just the marketing strategy as very unfortunate and mis-placed. There could be also mis-selling involved in that description, "sealed for life".
Leedsman.
#7
11-14-2010, 04:05 AM
Hello Leedsman, yes I know about the guy in Dewsbury, I live in Dewsbury. I had a bad experience with him so I've never been back. My Wakefield men are top class Jaguar trained lads, I can't recommend them too highly.
The ATF and additives. The only APPROVED ATF for the 6HP26 box is Shell M - 1375.4
Shell blend this stuff exclusively for ZF and it is impossible to get at any retail outlet. A lot of guys over here have tried. It can be ordered from EMO Oils (Shell UK distributors) but you have to buy a 205 litre drum. ZF market the stuff as Lifeguard 6 (it's the same stuff). I ASSUME, but I'm not sure that Shell supply the additive to ZF and it gets marketed as Lifeguard 1
I know this, it's hellish expensive
Millers Oils at Brighouse DO market an equivelent ATF to Lifeguard 6, they claim it's equal spec. but it's not approved by ZF
Oh, and the "sealed for life" bit, I agree, a load of nonsense, I reckon 75000miles max. without an oil and filter change
The ATF and additives. The only APPROVED ATF for the 6HP26 box is Shell M - 1375.4
Shell blend this stuff exclusively for ZF and it is impossible to get at any retail outlet. A lot of guys over here have tried. It can be ordered from EMO Oils (Shell UK distributors) but you have to buy a 205 litre drum. ZF market the stuff as Lifeguard 6 (it's the same stuff). I ASSUME, but I'm not sure that Shell supply the additive to ZF and it gets marketed as Lifeguard 1
I know this, it's hellish expensive
Millers Oils at Brighouse DO market an equivelent ATF to Lifeguard 6, they claim it's equal spec. but it's not approved by ZF
Oh, and the "sealed for life" bit, I agree, a load of nonsense, I reckon 75000miles max. without an oil and filter change
Last edited by victor; 11-14-2010 at 04:12 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
11-14-2010, 11:46 AM
Member
I've had good experiences with Lubegard products - in fact, they are the only additives I'd consider putting into a transmission. And, as far as additives go, they can lay claim to have been recommended by at least one OEM - Saab issued a Technical Service Bulletin where they recommended Lubegard Red in a ZF transmission.
Christian
Christian
#10
11-15-2010, 04:12 AM
F.A.O. Victor -- can U get Shell M1375.4 in UK in small qtys? Yes you can, you can!!! It's on UK E-bay. A guy is repackaging the real Mc.Coy from the big drums into 5litre containers. What's more, the price is reasonable, not a rip-off. I even made a contribution about it on this website. So I fully endorse your philosophy in using the gen. substance if possible.
BTW, tell us about your Wakefield man, his trading title, address and phone number so I can put it on my noticeboard. Cheers,
Leedsman.
BTW, tell us about your Wakefield man, his trading title, address and phone number so I can put it on my noticeboard. Cheers,
Leedsman.
#11
11-15-2010, 04:22 AM
F.A.O. H2O Boy, -- I appreciate your confidence and am going to smile all day now. My next v. minor prob. is a peculiar "boggling" rattle coming from the rear of the S-type, but of an intermittent nature. So the next check will be on the E-parkbrake cables fouling a bracket as I have read. Cheers,
Leedsman.
Oh, forgot; I found on the web a dodge to try and extinguish the perm. on airbag light in my instrument cluster. It involves simply fastening all the seatbelts. Hope it works.
Leedsman.
Oh, forgot; I found on the web a dodge to try and extinguish the perm. on airbag light in my instrument cluster. It involves simply fastening all the seatbelts. Hope it works.
#12
11-15-2010, 05:37 AM
Thanks for the Ebay info.
My man..http://www.nsjaguar.co.uk/
Neil Smith.and Stuart Redhead. What they don't know about Jaguars is not worth knowing. The have a top class reputation, all diagnostics, all genuine parts, and decent prices. You CAN watch your jobs being done and advice is freely available.
My man..http://www.nsjaguar.co.uk/
Neil Smith.and Stuart Redhead. What they don't know about Jaguars is not worth knowing. The have a top class reputation, all diagnostics, all genuine parts, and decent prices. You CAN watch your jobs being done and advice is freely available.
#14
01-13-2011, 01:43 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hello Leedsman,
My name is "Jackal" and I'm from Portugal. I've registered myself in this forum to be able to speak with you. I have a bmw 730d 3/2003 with this autobox and I've been facing some problems as I have the so called Lurch Variant 1. This means when I stop in a traffic Light I feel a little bump from behind. Or, on other situation, when I put it into reverse and then "D" I feel the bump again.
I've been reading you posts but my english knowledge are not enought to understand 100% of the technical terms you use as I am sorry to ask you this, but can you explain to me if you faced this same problems I'm facing and what you recomend? The best cost-efficient solution is to replace the oil?
Thank you very much for your reply as I am a little worry because bmw want 6000€+VAT (23%) to replace the gearbox.
My name is "Jackal" and I'm from Portugal. I've registered myself in this forum to be able to speak with you. I have a bmw 730d 3/2003 with this autobox and I've been facing some problems as I have the so called Lurch Variant 1. This means when I stop in a traffic Light I feel a little bump from behind. Or, on other situation, when I put it into reverse and then "D" I feel the bump again.
I've been reading you posts but my english knowledge are not enought to understand 100% of the technical terms you use as I am sorry to ask you this, but can you explain to me if you faced this same problems I'm facing and what you recomend? The best cost-efficient solution is to replace the oil?
Thank you very much for your reply as I am a little worry because bmw want 6000€+VAT (23%) to replace the gearbox.
#15
01-14-2011, 05:41 AM
F.A.O. "Jackal", and apologies for the slightly tardy reply.
You are saying you have a BMW 730 with diesel engine and ZF6HP26 gearbox, and that it has a slight 'lurch' at very low speed.
As it's a 2003 model, it will have done plenty miles. Find out if the autobox has ever had it's ATF fluid changed. If it hasn't, or you can't find out, GET IT CHANGED PRONTO! The best fluid is the regulation Shell M1375.4 which you can get on british E-Bay at a reasonable price, but I don't know how you're fixed in Portugal. You then won't need additives. Depending on whether you do the job yourself or get a mechanic to do it, the job will cost in the region of £100 to £200, or it's euro equiv.
This may or may not fix your lurch, but for the price, it's well worth it.
Next, if the lurch is still present, try a slight modification to your right foot on the accelerator pedal. As the autobox is changing down, REMOVE YOUR FOOT ALTOGETHER from the pedal, so there is no power input to the autobox as it is changing down. Even on mine, which is a 2006 S-type with this box, I can get a slight ghost of a bump on down changes -- but I've had this on other autoboxes, not just ZF. The pedal does more than just control fuel input, it's involved with "auto-fuel-shutoff" during deceleration, and autobox gear changing. As a handy tip to save fuel, I slip the gear selector lever into neutral when coming to a stop at traffic lights etc., especially if it's going to be a long holdup. This saves heating the ATF fluid (I have rigorously checked and tested this one with my autobox thermometer as outlined elsewhere on this website), and saves a little fuel, which in UK is unbelievably expensive. Don't forget to re-engage drive B4 setting off!
Finally, before going to the dealer for a software re-program, try disconnecting the battery for a minute or so to remove the user-habit program in the autobox control module. This one IS involved with minor malfunctions in this box. BE SURE to have the radiocode handy as you'll likely lose it when you disconnect the battery.
This might cure your lurch, or it might only cure it temporarily.
If the cure is only temporary, it's a visit to the dealer for a reprogram; I know this may be a big problem for you, but I can't see any other way after you've done all the above. At least you won't be spending E6000, which is more than the value of the car.
I note you have to come to an american Jaguar website, and listen to an englishman, to fix your german BMW! My words, we are so international...
Leedsman.
You are saying you have a BMW 730 with diesel engine and ZF6HP26 gearbox, and that it has a slight 'lurch' at very low speed.
As it's a 2003 model, it will have done plenty miles. Find out if the autobox has ever had it's ATF fluid changed. If it hasn't, or you can't find out, GET IT CHANGED PRONTO! The best fluid is the regulation Shell M1375.4 which you can get on british E-Bay at a reasonable price, but I don't know how you're fixed in Portugal. You then won't need additives. Depending on whether you do the job yourself or get a mechanic to do it, the job will cost in the region of £100 to £200, or it's euro equiv.
This may or may not fix your lurch, but for the price, it's well worth it.
Next, if the lurch is still present, try a slight modification to your right foot on the accelerator pedal. As the autobox is changing down, REMOVE YOUR FOOT ALTOGETHER from the pedal, so there is no power input to the autobox as it is changing down. Even on mine, which is a 2006 S-type with this box, I can get a slight ghost of a bump on down changes -- but I've had this on other autoboxes, not just ZF. The pedal does more than just control fuel input, it's involved with "auto-fuel-shutoff" during deceleration, and autobox gear changing. As a handy tip to save fuel, I slip the gear selector lever into neutral when coming to a stop at traffic lights etc., especially if it's going to be a long holdup. This saves heating the ATF fluid (I have rigorously checked and tested this one with my autobox thermometer as outlined elsewhere on this website), and saves a little fuel, which in UK is unbelievably expensive. Don't forget to re-engage drive B4 setting off!
Finally, before going to the dealer for a software re-program, try disconnecting the battery for a minute or so to remove the user-habit program in the autobox control module. This one IS involved with minor malfunctions in this box. BE SURE to have the radiocode handy as you'll likely lose it when you disconnect the battery.
This might cure your lurch, or it might only cure it temporarily.
If the cure is only temporary, it's a visit to the dealer for a reprogram; I know this may be a big problem for you, but I can't see any other way after you've done all the above. At least you won't be spending E6000, which is more than the value of the car.
I note you have to come to an american Jaguar website, and listen to an englishman, to fix your german BMW! My words, we are so international...
Leedsman.
#17
11-28-2017, 11:06 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Leadsman: Lucas and Instant Shudder Fixx
After allowing a few days and a few miles to bed in, I tested the car at full box temperature in three different places in Bradford where I knew it would shudder -- result, NO SHUDDER. The shudderfix was stopping the 'stick-slip' effect from the clutch by modifying friction close to full grip.
So....It appears that Dr. Tranny's magic fluid does what it says on the tin (UK joke). It remains to be seen just how long it will last. I'm hoping it will last as long as possible. The additive is made by "Lubegard" who make other interesting additives for autoboxes, and they claim to be OEM suppliers. It does not appear to be affected by being mixed with the Lucas additive. Maybe the two additives will work well together, who knows? We shall see what we shall see. I will report any future untoward effects.
Leedsman.[/QUOTE]
Leedsman:
Hope all is well.
I am anticipating adding the Lucas Transmission Fix to my vehicle as well. If Lucas does not take care of the shudder, then also do as you did and add the Lubegard Instant Shudder Fixx.
This thread is a few years old, so I hope it finds you....I am very curious to how the additives worked for you. Did they work for an extended period of time, and did you encounter any issues from mixing the two additives?
Thank you!
So....It appears that Dr. Tranny's magic fluid does what it says on the tin (UK joke). It remains to be seen just how long it will last. I'm hoping it will last as long as possible. The additive is made by "Lubegard" who make other interesting additives for autoboxes, and they claim to be OEM suppliers. It does not appear to be affected by being mixed with the Lucas additive. Maybe the two additives will work well together, who knows? We shall see what we shall see. I will report any future untoward effects.
Leedsman.[/QUOTE]
Leedsman:
Hope all is well.
I am anticipating adding the Lucas Transmission Fix to my vehicle as well. If Lucas does not take care of the shudder, then also do as you did and add the Lubegard Instant Shudder Fixx.
This thread is a few years old, so I hope it finds you....I am very curious to how the additives worked for you. Did they work for an extended period of time, and did you encounter any issues from mixing the two additives?
Thank you!
#18
11-29-2017, 02:03 AM
Veteran Member
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Malihide
XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 )
11
09-29-2015 03:21 PM
UKnFor-dluv-expat
X-Type ( X400 )
1
09-26-2015 08:40 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)