yup,

after sourcing all the right tools for locking off the cams , and the crank pulley remover along with the flywheel ( torque converter ) locking tool , and after buying all the right parts from my local Jag dealership including all new gaskets for the cam-cover ( outer seal, spark plug seals , bolt seals , variable cam sensor sealing ring etc etc ) i plucked up the courage to take the engine apart


my catalyst for this job was two-fold,

firstly , i had minor oil leaks from a few places on the cam cover along with the spark plug wells and the variable sensor seals, i didnt like this at all

secondly , the tensioners them selves, as they were an unknown quantity and i had just reached 90k miles in my 1999 Nikasil engined XJ8 Sov ( successful blow-by test recently carried out 19ltrs/ per something or other ?? )

with spanners in hand i removed all the cover trims and the spark-plug coil covers on both cams, and carefully replaced all the bolts back in their holes as not to loose any ( i did this all the way through he job), removed the coils and wiring and tucked out of the way , and proceed to remove the cam-covers , was a little surprised at having to guide the cover up and over the cam sensor on the front of the engine, the seal broke away as i did it, all the rubber/plastic seals were flat and pretty much U/S , thats why i had a full new set ( £78 ), did this on both sides


once all the top is removed you can easily see the secondary timing chain tensioners, they are the orange parts in the pictures, they start off as white, but with the oil and the heat they go orange and deteriorate and eventually split or loose a slipper against the chain


i then proceeded to set up the cams, this is done by turning over the bottom crank pulley by hand with a 24mm socket an a large ratchet , i did this until i reached TDC and the two pairs of cams ' flats ' were parallel to each other, this was checked with a steel straight edge ruler , once in this position i installed the locking tools and bolted them down very tight , while remembering it was into aluminium!!!
the picture below shows the cam locking tool, with the sprocket spanner and a 10mm Allen key for removal of the sprocket bolt and washer

BOTH pairs of cams MUST be locked off together, as any movement is fatal to the timing ,

undo the two 8mm bolts holding down the old tensioner,

the exhaust sprocket can now be removed , the bolt is very long , and be sure not to drop anything down the covers !!!

while holding the sprocket and chain in one hand, remove and lift out of the way and remove the old tensioner, then drop in the new tensioner and replace the sprocket onto the cam shaft , screw in the cam bolt hand tight at this point, straighten up and fix down the new tensioner , then remove the spring retaining pin to tension the chain , then tighten the sprocket bolt to 70 lb feet with a torque wrench

do the same on the other side, ensure everything is tight and then check again , and then when feeling brave remove the cam locking tools , nothing should move at this point
this picture shows the new tensioner fully in place and tightened up after removal of cam tools



now for the results ...........

the original tensioners looked fine in place, but when they came out i could see that all the work was worth the effort ,
the right bank one had a 1mm split starting on it, but worse then this the bottom ( spring ) slipper was severely worn and gouged out, showing ' bubbles ' in the original plastic moulding wearing through

the left bank one showed hardly any wear to the slipper, but the shank had a 4mm split in it ,
so all in all a top job methinks, the new aluminium tensioner can be seen in the background ,
BTW, the new tensioners require four new SHORTER bolts to fix them down, and £0.96 each....


it took me four hours on Saturday to strip the engine , and four hours on sunday to complete the job

all the mating surfaces were cleaned of oil and old gasket, and the engine was put back together,

i then ( with heart in mouth) turned her over to see if it was asucess ?
voila!!( sp ) she lives, muhahahaha

drover down to bristol and back today , very gingerly with the radio off, lol

but not a beat was missed



BB ( have already sold on the tools to another Jag owner who has also now done the job himself ......third time so far.....)

 

BTW, i forgot to mention the costs of this project

two new Mk4 alloy tensioners ( handed ) @ £49 each ( you can convert to $'s yourself at current rates )

four new shorter tensioner bolts @ £0.96 each

full set of AJ27 cam cover / spark plug and bolt seals including the VVT solenoids @ £78 for the whole set

purchase of the tools came in at £250 , but i sold them on for no loss to the next needy Jag owner....


so a grand total of £179.84...........

i have also installed a K&N filter in the standard induction box, plus a new set of spark plugs, new water pump ( new type ) , new thermostat and seal, new vacuum hose from the top of the cam box , flushed the oil system and put in a new filter and genuine jaguar Havoline 5W30 oil ,

well, i wasnt doing much at the time, lol

BB

 

Nice work! Interesting that the plastic defects did not become visible until the old tensioners were out of their nest...
________

1999 XJR

 

Hi BB

Congratulation for the job you have don. Your detailled description including the photos will help me a lot when it comes to do a similar job on my XJR namely either to replace head gaskets or a valve or two or, in the worst case, replacing some piston rings. I panic already when I just think, what job I have to do. After reading your exposée I feel a bit less scared!

Ernest

 

Excellently documented DIY project BB! I have no doubt your careful notes and pictures will help others undertaking this same task. Great work.[sm=smiley32.gif]

 

Great job and only 8 hours. Not bad for a beginner.
Ernest, if you are taking the heads off that xjr - after doing you leakdown test of course, you should still lock down both sets of cams and lock the flywheel until chains are off.

Hope to see someone do a write up of the lower chains and tensioners soon LOL

 

BLOODY HELL, MAN...I'll stick to doing my own oil changes and pay the man for everything else. I'm feeling a bit queasy now. NICE JOB though! Congrats.

Tom

 

hey,

its still only an engine......


as for the condition of the old tensioners, all i can say is that the wear or cracks did NOT make them selves clear while still installed in the car, as there are a lot of peeps who say they will take the covers off and have a look, but they wont see that the hidden side of the tensioner is the one that cracks , and on the one side ( right side ) the adjuster is on the lower end, and the surface cant be seen,only full removal will reveal the truth , and to be honest, if you have gone that far, you might as well swap them out for new ones @ £49 each.......

i now know i can take it to 7k revs and not worry about bits flying off inside the engine.....

BB

 

As a matter of interest, could anyone hazard a guess at whata Jag dealer would have charged to change the tensioners ? Id be interested to know.

Thanks

 

We sell the tools:

http://www.motorcarsltd.com/item.wws?sku=IN108182

This kit does XJ, XK, and the 4.0 S-types.

 

I also have a kit for $285 that does XJ and XK engines only.

 

Brake buster
Congratulations on a job Well Done
Hope to hear of your many miles to come stories

 

Celleman, yes, they do the XJR and XKR as well. I recommend you buy an extra camlocking tool so you don't have to swap from side to side. It's an extra $125. Just email or call me.

 

4-5 hours

 

Did primary and secondary on mine in 4 hours.

 

Why could'nt you remove the cam bearing tops so as to lift the cams up from the back and tilt them forward....remove the old tensioners and install the new ones.
If you did that and did not remove the chain from the sprokets, then no need to lock them down.......just replace the bearing caps and re-torque ....?

 

Great job! and the money saved was a plus too...

 

Donzi, the cam will move. When you put it back together the timing will be off. The tools are there for a reason.