X-Type Fuel Pump replacement
#1
X-Type Fuel Pump replacement
I am a new member with a 2002 X-Type Sport with a 2.5 and 5-speed. This is one of the very first X-Types sold in the USA. We purchased it new in the Fall of 2001. It now has 85,000 miles on it - and unless I replace the fuel pump that may be all it ever has. I have read through every post I could find in this forum regarding the fuel pump and they have all been incredibly helpful. It is amazing how many other owners have had the same issues that I have had over the years.
The car died on the highway - like several other threads I have seen - and I am as certain as I can be that I need to replace the fuel pump. I have tested fuel rail pressure (0psi), various voltages, all fuses, the inertia switch (including jumping the pins to by-pass it), listened for pump sounds (it makes absolutely no sound even though it has voltage to the red and yellow wires) and everything else I saw to do in this forum. No luck.
I have a couple basic questions:
1. I have seen references to the fuel pump control module but I have not seen any description of where it is. I really doubt that this module is the problem but I would like to try and eliminate it as a suspect before I get into a fuel pump replacement.
2. I have seen the steps involved in removing the tank and, although it is very involved it is a straightforward process (of course the tank is completely full) except removing the exhaust pipe that is in the way. The drive shaft will be a piece of cake in comparison. I have read of others removing the tank and no one even mentions difficulty with the exhaust - so maybe there is trick I have missed. Is there a way to get the joint in the exhaust pipe (the one that is a the rear of the tank near the differential) apart after 13 years without cutting it? If it does come apart is it possible to just move the exhaust pipe to the side out of the way because there is a bellows a the front of that pipe. The exhaust really looks impossible to get out without cutting it (the clamps at the front of the pipe where it connects to the headers is nothing more than a mass of rust - the things that used to be nuts and bolts are not even recognizable).
3. I would really like to just cut a hole under the rear seat to get the pump out. I read one very short post where someone referenced doing that. However, I have no idea where to cut the hole. I was hoping it would be obvious but I it is not (at least not to me.) I was really hoping the pump would be visible under the big rubber grommet that covers the connector under the seat. Is it just nuts to cut a hole? Also, I know there are two pumps - one to pump fuel over the hump and the other to feed the engine. Since the tank is full and there is no pressure in the rail, I assume the main pump is shot and I am not worried (yet) about the other. Is the transfer pump accessed from a different hole.
Thanks so much in advance for any advise you can give me.
The car died on the highway - like several other threads I have seen - and I am as certain as I can be that I need to replace the fuel pump. I have tested fuel rail pressure (0psi), various voltages, all fuses, the inertia switch (including jumping the pins to by-pass it), listened for pump sounds (it makes absolutely no sound even though it has voltage to the red and yellow wires) and everything else I saw to do in this forum. No luck.
I have a couple basic questions:
1. I have seen references to the fuel pump control module but I have not seen any description of where it is. I really doubt that this module is the problem but I would like to try and eliminate it as a suspect before I get into a fuel pump replacement.
2. I have seen the steps involved in removing the tank and, although it is very involved it is a straightforward process (of course the tank is completely full) except removing the exhaust pipe that is in the way. The drive shaft will be a piece of cake in comparison. I have read of others removing the tank and no one even mentions difficulty with the exhaust - so maybe there is trick I have missed. Is there a way to get the joint in the exhaust pipe (the one that is a the rear of the tank near the differential) apart after 13 years without cutting it? If it does come apart is it possible to just move the exhaust pipe to the side out of the way because there is a bellows a the front of that pipe. The exhaust really looks impossible to get out without cutting it (the clamps at the front of the pipe where it connects to the headers is nothing more than a mass of rust - the things that used to be nuts and bolts are not even recognizable).
3. I would really like to just cut a hole under the rear seat to get the pump out. I read one very short post where someone referenced doing that. However, I have no idea where to cut the hole. I was hoping it would be obvious but I it is not (at least not to me.) I was really hoping the pump would be visible under the big rubber grommet that covers the connector under the seat. Is it just nuts to cut a hole? Also, I know there are two pumps - one to pump fuel over the hump and the other to feed the engine. Since the tank is full and there is no pressure in the rail, I assume the main pump is shot and I am not worried (yet) about the other. Is the transfer pump accessed from a different hole.
Thanks so much in advance for any advise you can give me.
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lottadot (07-11-2019)
#2
Update on Fuel pump - a new thought
I spent several hours with the car today. The drive shaft is out and the rear diff is moved. The exhaust is still in place. I looked very closely at all of the exhaust components and there is no way any of the original bolts will come out - they are not bolts and nuts any longer.
Now that the shaft is out of the way I had a thought. Is it possible to lower the tank onto the exhaust pipe (the hump in the tank is quite large above the drive shaft tunnel) and then rotate the tank on the pipe to expose the top of the tank that has the fuel pump access?
Has anyone ever tried this?? It would be so much easier than removing the exhaust.............
2002 X-Type Sport with a 2.5 and 5-speed
Now that the shaft is out of the way I had a thought. Is it possible to lower the tank onto the exhaust pipe (the hump in the tank is quite large above the drive shaft tunnel) and then rotate the tank on the pipe to expose the top of the tank that has the fuel pump access?
Has anyone ever tried this?? It would be so much easier than removing the exhaust.............
2002 X-Type Sport with a 2.5 and 5-speed
#3
best thing to do is to cut off the old bolts and take off the pipe. I used stainless steel replacements.
The tank needs to slide out. be carful as the fill line and the charcoal box is above the tank. You don't want to bend or break any lines in or out..If you look at the tank. The circles under the tank are where the pumps sit. The Right side of the car is where the fuel pump is. If you need a fuel pump I have 2 sitting on the shelf. I can give you a great price. Pm Me and we can talk.
Good luck.
The tank needs to slide out. be carful as the fill line and the charcoal box is above the tank. You don't want to bend or break any lines in or out..If you look at the tank. The circles under the tank are where the pumps sit. The Right side of the car is where the fuel pump is. If you need a fuel pump I have 2 sitting on the shelf. I can give you a great price. Pm Me and we can talk.
Good luck.
#4
03 X-type intermittent start
I am also having fuel pump problems. Sometimes it works, most times it does not. When I turn on the key, I do not hear the fuel pump initialize at all. Occasionally it will work and start, but I am unwilling to take it for a test drive and getting stuck.
What is the best way to trouble shoot, to make sure it is the fuel pump? I have read that there is a fuel pump control module?
Thanks in advance!
What is the best way to trouble shoot, to make sure it is the fuel pump? I have read that there is a fuel pump control module?
Thanks in advance!
#5
I am also having fuel pump problems. Sometimes it works, most times it does not. When I turn on the key, I do not hear the fuel pump initialize at all. Occasionally it will work and start, but I am unwilling to take it for a test drive and getting stuck.
What is the best way to trouble shoot, to make sure it is the fuel pump? I have read that there is a fuel pump control module?
Thanks in advance!
What is the best way to trouble shoot, to make sure it is the fuel pump? I have read that there is a fuel pump control module?
Thanks in advance!
I know our current cars are Jaguars. But when I was a college student with a $500 ford tempo, I removed the rear seat, and cut three sides of a squat and pealed the floor up. I found it by knocking from the bottom with my hand above the fuel pump, and a friend listened up top. This got us very close, and we used a small drill bit to make sure.before we made a big cut.
Afterwards, there was never an issue. And the pump was very easy to change!
#6
Fuek Pump removed.
Thanks for your replies folks.
@Robochop - this is a lot of good info in this Forum that instructs on how to rest the fuel pump. I never found the fuel pump module but I am pretty certain the problem I have is with the fuel pump.
As an update: I removed all of the hardware, electrical connections, and fuel lines from the tank and the rear diff and drive shaft. The hardest part of the whole process so far was getting the quick connect couplings to disconnect. I have the tools for the job but they were very, very difficult to come apart. they may be quick connect - but they are not quick disconnect.
I did not remove the exhaust - just could not bring myself to go down that rabbit hole. I lowered the tank onto the exhaust pipe that runs under the tank and then moved the tank to the right until I had enough room to tilt the right side down enough to get access to the top of the tank and the fuel pump. I removed ring that holds the pump in place and was able to maneuver the pump up and out = in a sideways fashion.
Now I am waiting for the new pump to arrive and reverse the process.
The moral of the story so far is that the fuel pump can be removed without removing the exhaust!!!
@Robochop - this is a lot of good info in this Forum that instructs on how to rest the fuel pump. I never found the fuel pump module but I am pretty certain the problem I have is with the fuel pump.
As an update: I removed all of the hardware, electrical connections, and fuel lines from the tank and the rear diff and drive shaft. The hardest part of the whole process so far was getting the quick connect couplings to disconnect. I have the tools for the job but they were very, very difficult to come apart. they may be quick connect - but they are not quick disconnect.
I did not remove the exhaust - just could not bring myself to go down that rabbit hole. I lowered the tank onto the exhaust pipe that runs under the tank and then moved the tank to the right until I had enough room to tilt the right side down enough to get access to the top of the tank and the fuel pump. I removed ring that holds the pump in place and was able to maneuver the pump up and out = in a sideways fashion.
Now I am waiting for the new pump to arrive and reverse the process.
The moral of the story so far is that the fuel pump can be removed without removing the exhaust!!!
#9
Hi Erich,
Sorry but I feel your pain. I did a fuel pump R&R on my Saab 9-3 a few years back with similar problems since there is no access panel on a '99. Someone posted a great video on cutting a 9-3 access panel but it was after I had already done the job from under the car.
I now have an X-Type with almost 100K so it's just a matter of time until it will need one. But, since the top of your tank is now somewhat accessible can you measure the location of the pump from the side/front of the tank (or relative to some landmark on the floor pan) to provide an approximate position for those of us who may want to cut an access panel? It would be a huge help and might lead someone to make a video, too.
Good luck with the rest of the job - hope it solves your problem.
Thanks,
Steve
Sorry but I feel your pain. I did a fuel pump R&R on my Saab 9-3 a few years back with similar problems since there is no access panel on a '99. Someone posted a great video on cutting a 9-3 access panel but it was after I had already done the job from under the car.
I now have an X-Type with almost 100K so it's just a matter of time until it will need one. But, since the top of your tank is now somewhat accessible can you measure the location of the pump from the side/front of the tank (or relative to some landmark on the floor pan) to provide an approximate position for those of us who may want to cut an access panel? It would be a huge help and might lead someone to make a video, too.
Good luck with the rest of the job - hope it solves your problem.
Thanks,
Steve
#10
O-Ring on Fuel Pump securing ring
While I was getting ready to screw down the retaining ring to finish the installation of the new fuel pump I noticed that the O-ring (green) was not tight around the top of threaded neck on the fuel tank. I think it got stretched out during this two week process. Therefore I cannot finish the installation.
However, I also was thinking last night that perhaps I put the metal ring (c-shaped) in the wrong place. I thought that the metal ring is supposed to be placed around the top of the INSIDE of the opening in which the fuel pump sits. is this correct???? Or does it go on the outside of the threaded neck so that the O-ring wraps around it.
I have looked and looked for a diagram showing all of the components around the opening but all I can find are rough drawings that do not even show the metal ring.
Does anyone know how the O-ring and metal ring are installed properly???
Very frustrating that I though I would be done with this job but an O-ring has brought all progress to a halt.
@steve12955. Dr Dome correctly pointed out in this thread that there are two circles molded into the bottom of the fuel tank. They are close to the front of the tank on the left and right of the tank. The fuel pump sits directly above the circle on the right side and the transfer pump sits directly above the circle on the left side. Cutting through the floor directly above these circles will reveal the pumps. I hope I never need to this job again - but if I do I am cutting through the floor.
However, I also was thinking last night that perhaps I put the metal ring (c-shaped) in the wrong place. I thought that the metal ring is supposed to be placed around the top of the INSIDE of the opening in which the fuel pump sits. is this correct???? Or does it go on the outside of the threaded neck so that the O-ring wraps around it.
I have looked and looked for a diagram showing all of the components around the opening but all I can find are rough drawings that do not even show the metal ring.
Does anyone know how the O-ring and metal ring are installed properly???
Very frustrating that I though I would be done with this job but an O-ring has brought all progress to a halt.
@steve12955. Dr Dome correctly pointed out in this thread that there are two circles molded into the bottom of the fuel tank. They are close to the front of the tank on the left and right of the tank. The fuel pump sits directly above the circle on the right side and the transfer pump sits directly above the circle on the left side. Cutting through the floor directly above these circles will reveal the pumps. I hope I never need to this job again - but if I do I am cutting through the floor.
#11
Epilogue
The fuel pump is in and the car is running.
A few final points:
Taking out the drive shaft and lowering the fuel tank onto the exhaust pipe allows you to wiggle the tank over and then tilt it to remove/replace the fuel pump on the right side of the tank.
Replacing the main fuel pump requires access to the transfer pump on the left side of the tank. Wiggling the tank the other way and tilting it to the left allows access to the top of the transfer pump so it can be lifted and the hoses that go to the main pump can then be swapped out.
There is not enough room to replace the transfer pump using this method. There is just enough room to get access to the hoses.
Do NOT stretch the green O-ring in any way - it will not snap back and they cost $35 each at the dealer.
The metal ring that is one of the pieces that comes out when the pump is removed is placed around the top of the INSIDE of the opening in which the fuel pump sits.
A pair of oil filter pliers that I have worked great for removing and installing the locking ring that holds the pump(s) in place.
I drove the car around town and it drives great. However, it is my wife's car and she reports that it now shakes on the highway. There was no issue with the drive shaft or its center bearing before I removed it so I assume the bearing has not gone bad, but there does not seem to be a lot of adjustment when it is installed. So the fuel pump is installed and works like a champ - but the project is not over
A few final points:
Taking out the drive shaft and lowering the fuel tank onto the exhaust pipe allows you to wiggle the tank over and then tilt it to remove/replace the fuel pump on the right side of the tank.
Replacing the main fuel pump requires access to the transfer pump on the left side of the tank. Wiggling the tank the other way and tilting it to the left allows access to the top of the transfer pump so it can be lifted and the hoses that go to the main pump can then be swapped out.
There is not enough room to replace the transfer pump using this method. There is just enough room to get access to the hoses.
Do NOT stretch the green O-ring in any way - it will not snap back and they cost $35 each at the dealer.
The metal ring that is one of the pieces that comes out when the pump is removed is placed around the top of the INSIDE of the opening in which the fuel pump sits.
A pair of oil filter pliers that I have worked great for removing and installing the locking ring that holds the pump(s) in place.
I drove the car around town and it drives great. However, it is my wife's car and she reports that it now shakes on the highway. There was no issue with the drive shaft or its center bearing before I removed it so I assume the bearing has not gone bad, but there does not seem to be a lot of adjustment when it is installed. So the fuel pump is installed and works like a champ - but the project is not over
#12
My wife's 2003 x-type fuel pump went kaput as well. I measured and cut an access hole under the seat versus removing the fuel tank (i will send pics and measurements if anyone wants them). Got the new pump and noticed two long hoses with quik-connects going to the transfer pump. Thought I would be able to just disconnect them when I removed the old pump but no joy.
Do I have to open up the transfer pump side to disconnect those hoses? One of the fuel lines looks like it has compression fittings on the fuel pump nylon inlet and I did not want to damage the new pump by taking it off and just using the one already in the tank from the old pump. The other line just pulls out of a hole in the top of the fuel pump. Any suggestions?
Do I have to open up the transfer pump side to disconnect those hoses? One of the fuel lines looks like it has compression fittings on the fuel pump nylon inlet and I did not want to damage the new pump by taking it off and just using the one already in the tank from the old pump. The other line just pulls out of a hole in the top of the fuel pump. Any suggestions?
#13
I just spent 45 minutes posting a reply to this question with details and pictures and directions - but the post was rejected by the system. Very frustrating.
Here is the summary - splice the old hose to the new pump. Otherwise you need to cut another hole in the car to get access to the transfer pump.
Here is the summary - splice the old hose to the new pump. Otherwise you need to cut another hole in the car to get access to the transfer pump.
#17
#18
All, Be careful of sparks near the gas tank while cutting! I did go thru the trouble of removing the tank. I even ordered a new one from E-bay, but the picture of the pump was not what I received. I ended up taking the fuel pump apart and replacing the pump motor itself. It is not very complicated, just requires a LOT of patience. The hose clamps on the pump assy can be loosened enough to remove with a screwdriver. Carefully remove the 5 or 6 top screws and take off lid. Be careful to remember where all pieces go for reassembly! I will attach pictures to help.
P.S. Dr. Dome was also very helpful with a lot of parts and info!
P.S. Dr. Dome was also very helpful with a lot of parts and info!
#19
#20