Aftermarket In-Dash Receiver/nav units
#42
Well I got my D3 in using the kit. I'm 90% happy with the final outcome. It was really a struggle getting that center stack back in the dash with the double din head unit, all the wires of the D3, pac steering wheel controller (which works very well), Etc, PLUS how sort the wires are to the climate control, and lower button panel make it so the d3 doesnt want to go in.. I got it in and it looks good though. The green is a decent, albeit not perfect match for the jag. The buttons match well, the screen is more of a turquoise green than the Jaguar. I think I will perfect the install when the center stack comes out again, this time to run RCA and remote turn on wires, but I can live with it this way for a while.
I still need the right nav disc - mine has a west coast nav disc in it (which does have an east coast basemap - it does show you where you are etc, but no navigation capabilites..) I'm going to order the right disc from ebay today.
Now, I realize JUST how much the Jaguar speakers stink. That's the next project. I was trying to avoid doing a whole system in the car, figuring that I had finally outgrown it, but I've got the bug again.
I've got pictures of the dissasembly and the D3 in it's new home at home, I actually have my camera here, but no way to get pictures off of my SD card here @ work. Damn lenovo laptops and their lack of a card reader!
More to come...
George
I still need the right nav disc - mine has a west coast nav disc in it (which does have an east coast basemap - it does show you where you are etc, but no navigation capabilites..) I'm going to order the right disc from ebay today.
Now, I realize JUST how much the Jaguar speakers stink. That's the next project. I was trying to avoid doing a whole system in the car, figuring that I had finally outgrown it, but I've got the bug again.
I've got pictures of the dissasembly and the D3 in it's new home at home, I actually have my camera here, but no way to get pictures off of my SD card here @ work. Damn lenovo laptops and their lack of a card reader!
More to come...
George
#44
Well I got my D3 in using the kit. I'm 90% happy with the final outcome. It was really a struggle getting that center stack back in the dash with the double din head unit, all the wires of the D3, pac steering wheel controller (which works very well), Etc, PLUS how sort the wires are to the climate control, and lower button panel make it so the d3 doesnt want to go in.. I got it in and it looks good though. The green is a decent, albeit not perfect match for the jag. The buttons match well, the screen is more of a turquoise green than the Jaguar. I think I will perfect the install when the center stack comes out again, this time to run RCA and remote turn on wires, but I can live with it this way for a while.
I still need the right nav disc - mine has a west coast nav disc in it (which does have an east coast basemap - it does show you where you are etc, but no navigation capabilites..) I'm going to order the right disc from ebay today.
Now, I realize JUST how much the Jaguar speakers stink. That's the next project. I was trying to avoid doing a whole system in the car, figuring that I had finally outgrown it, but I've got the bug again.
I've got pictures of the dissasembly and the D3 in it's new home at home, I actually have my camera here, but no way to get pictures off of my SD card here @ work. Damn lenovo laptops and their lack of a card reader!
More to come...
George
I still need the right nav disc - mine has a west coast nav disc in it (which does have an east coast basemap - it does show you where you are etc, but no navigation capabilites..) I'm going to order the right disc from ebay today.
Now, I realize JUST how much the Jaguar speakers stink. That's the next project. I was trying to avoid doing a whole system in the car, figuring that I had finally outgrown it, but I've got the bug again.
I've got pictures of the dissasembly and the D3 in it's new home at home, I actually have my camera here, but no way to get pictures off of my SD card here @ work. Damn lenovo laptops and their lack of a card reader!
More to come...
George
#48
Jason.
A day late and a dollar short. I'm also attaching a picture of the unit in taken with my blackberry. It's crappy but I'll slowly put together a real document.
I actually ordered a new set of the 80 series (2008) green discs from a guy on ebay for 19.99 shipped for the set. He claims they are OEM, we'll see.
Then I started poking around on avic411.com and realized that the discs are available by alternative means if you know where to look.
So I ended up making my own 80 series "replica" disc a few hours later, and I am currently "acquiring" a set of the 90 series discs which you are selling.
The 80 series replica disc works fine.
I'm having an issue with the steering wheel controller, and I don't think the PAC SWI-PS is the way to go.
In my x-type I used a PAC SWI-X (the universal remote one) and I had this same problem. Apparently our Jags have a weird issue when it comes to the steering wheel controls. They use stepped resistance, which the swi series controllers read fine, BUT apparently the resistance changes when the headlights are on, and the buttons are illuminated.
SO what happens is, when you program the SWI-PS with the headlights on, the vol up / down and track up / down buttons work ONLY with the headlights on. If you program with lights off, it only works with the lights off.
ON my X-type with the swi-x I actually developed a workaround, where I programmed the buttons with the lights on, and lights off seperately. The SWI-X is just a learning remote, so it didnt care what code it sent. i.e. you could make every button volume up.
The SWI-PS, however has a specific sequence with which you have to program it. And I don't think there is a way by which you can assign multiple buttons (which the SWI series perceives the vol and track buttons as different with lights on or off) to the same function.
I am thinking about emailing PAC about the issue. I do have the ir remote for the AVIC, so worse case I could convert to a PAC SWI-X but i'd have to deal with the hassle of mounting the remote eye etc. Plus sometimes in my X it doesn't work all that well in bright sun with the sunroof open.
Food for thought.
George
A day late and a dollar short. I'm also attaching a picture of the unit in taken with my blackberry. It's crappy but I'll slowly put together a real document.
I actually ordered a new set of the 80 series (2008) green discs from a guy on ebay for 19.99 shipped for the set. He claims they are OEM, we'll see.
Then I started poking around on avic411.com and realized that the discs are available by alternative means if you know where to look.
So I ended up making my own 80 series "replica" disc a few hours later, and I am currently "acquiring" a set of the 90 series discs which you are selling.
The 80 series replica disc works fine.
I'm having an issue with the steering wheel controller, and I don't think the PAC SWI-PS is the way to go.
In my x-type I used a PAC SWI-X (the universal remote one) and I had this same problem. Apparently our Jags have a weird issue when it comes to the steering wheel controls. They use stepped resistance, which the swi series controllers read fine, BUT apparently the resistance changes when the headlights are on, and the buttons are illuminated.
SO what happens is, when you program the SWI-PS with the headlights on, the vol up / down and track up / down buttons work ONLY with the headlights on. If you program with lights off, it only works with the lights off.
ON my X-type with the swi-x I actually developed a workaround, where I programmed the buttons with the lights on, and lights off seperately. The SWI-X is just a learning remote, so it didnt care what code it sent. i.e. you could make every button volume up.
The SWI-PS, however has a specific sequence with which you have to program it. And I don't think there is a way by which you can assign multiple buttons (which the SWI series perceives the vol and track buttons as different with lights on or off) to the same function.
I am thinking about emailing PAC about the issue. I do have the ir remote for the AVIC, so worse case I could convert to a PAC SWI-X but i'd have to deal with the hassle of mounting the remote eye etc. Plus sometimes in my X it doesn't work all that well in bright sun with the sunroof open.
Food for thought.
George
#49
#52
#53
Did mine this morning.
I replaced the Jag OEM mic, and tucked it away in the headliner so I wouldn't have to chase it all to it's other end. The new one is clipped to the headliner in the same position as the Jag one.
The Fascia adaptor is a very good fit, and hold the Stereo very securely - no cage, it gets bolted into the adaptor, and then the adaptor is bolted into the metal frame that holds all of the console components.
The stereo has two USB inputs - one for the iPod, and another for USB devices. This non-ipod one I've connected to an extension cable that I've routed into the ashtray cubby.
The dock cable has been run all the way back to the centre console storage bin, so I can put my iPhone / iPod out of sight.
The stereo has full control of the iPod / attached devices via the touchscreen. It charges the iPod, and with the new Kenwood cable I don't get the 'not made for iPod' message on the iPhone anymore.
It's also great at playing video back as well from the iPod. DVDs as well, and movie files on SD cards and USB sticks. Music on that medium as well.
I'm really impressed with the way it's turned out. More importantly, so is the wife!
I replaced the Jag OEM mic, and tucked it away in the headliner so I wouldn't have to chase it all to it's other end. The new one is clipped to the headliner in the same position as the Jag one.
The Fascia adaptor is a very good fit, and hold the Stereo very securely - no cage, it gets bolted into the adaptor, and then the adaptor is bolted into the metal frame that holds all of the console components.
The stereo has two USB inputs - one for the iPod, and another for USB devices. This non-ipod one I've connected to an extension cable that I've routed into the ashtray cubby.
The dock cable has been run all the way back to the centre console storage bin, so I can put my iPhone / iPod out of sight.
The stereo has full control of the iPod / attached devices via the touchscreen. It charges the iPod, and with the new Kenwood cable I don't get the 'not made for iPod' message on the iPhone anymore.
It's also great at playing video back as well from the iPod. DVDs as well, and movie files on SD cards and USB sticks. Music on that medium as well.
I'm really impressed with the way it's turned out. More importantly, so is the wife!
#54
Hey Great Old one. Is there any particular reason you chose to have the faceplate of the stereo stick so far out? The reason I ask is because I have mine (Pioneer Avic D3) in almost flush with the trim ring. Its a TIGHT fit, and I'm wondering if I should move it forward. I can't decide if I like how yours protrudes or not...
I'm slowly preparing for stage 2 of my upgrade. I spent the day upgrading the front speakers to MB Quart 5.25" Components. Not suprisingly, they sound weak and underpowered compared to the factory speakers. (Running off the pioneer deck). Running RCA's / Remote turn on and the music amp is next weekend's project.
Your setup looks good. I get a kick out of seeing the driver on the right side and that sliver trim. Are you just running stock speakers with the kenwood deck?
Here's a pic of my new door setup...
George
I'm slowly preparing for stage 2 of my upgrade. I spent the day upgrading the front speakers to MB Quart 5.25" Components. Not suprisingly, they sound weak and underpowered compared to the factory speakers. (Running off the pioneer deck). Running RCA's / Remote turn on and the music amp is next weekend's project.
Your setup looks good. I get a kick out of seeing the driver on the right side and that sliver trim. Are you just running stock speakers with the kenwood deck?
Here's a pic of my new door setup...
George
#55
That's where the kenwood slides into the trim - I couldn't get it to slide any further back into the adaptor. And I didn't have a great deal of issues putting at all back in, after cable tying all the excess wires from the various interface units and cables to the top of the A/C panel.
That said, it doesn't look out of place to me, as it doesn't stick a great deal. Certainly a lot less than the knob that used to be on the old head unit. The only issue is that whilst I can open the face plate to load a CD or DVD when the car is in Park, It won't open all the way for SD loading. For that I have to move the shifter Not a big deal, as most of my data will be on my iPhone, and if I want an SD in there I'll just pop in a big SDHC card filled with goodies and then forget about it.
I've swapped out the stock Ford speakers as well. I went for the easy option - as I'm not an audiophile (I can't tell the difference between an 128bit AAC and a CD - shocking, I know ) or feel the need to tear the space-time continuum with weapons grade levels of bass - and dropped in some Pioneer TS-H687s. Even I can tell the difference between them and the standard Ford speakers. It like night and day!
Installing them was dead easy, especially with some Autoleads PC2-815 cable adaptors.
The full list of bits for the install are as follows:
Fascia Adaptor: Metra 99-9501
Head Unit: Kenwood DDX8024BT
Steering Wheel Control Interface: Autoleads PC99-X47
Head Unit wiring for Steering Wheel: Autoleads PC99-KEN
Head Unit Wiring Harness Adaptor: Autoleads PC2-81-4 (Ordered by mistake, as you get one of these with the Wheel Controls Interface)
Speaker Wiring Adaptors: Autoleads PC2-815
Ariel Adaptor: Autoleads PC5-100
Speakers: Pioneer TS-H687
iPod Lead: Kenwood KCA-IP301V
That said, it doesn't look out of place to me, as it doesn't stick a great deal. Certainly a lot less than the knob that used to be on the old head unit. The only issue is that whilst I can open the face plate to load a CD or DVD when the car is in Park, It won't open all the way for SD loading. For that I have to move the shifter Not a big deal, as most of my data will be on my iPhone, and if I want an SD in there I'll just pop in a big SDHC card filled with goodies and then forget about it.
I've swapped out the stock Ford speakers as well. I went for the easy option - as I'm not an audiophile (I can't tell the difference between an 128bit AAC and a CD - shocking, I know ) or feel the need to tear the space-time continuum with weapons grade levels of bass - and dropped in some Pioneer TS-H687s. Even I can tell the difference between them and the standard Ford speakers. It like night and day!
Installing them was dead easy, especially with some Autoleads PC2-815 cable adaptors.
The full list of bits for the install are as follows:
Fascia Adaptor: Metra 99-9501
Head Unit: Kenwood DDX8024BT
Steering Wheel Control Interface: Autoleads PC99-X47
Head Unit wiring for Steering Wheel: Autoleads PC99-KEN
Head Unit Wiring Harness Adaptor: Autoleads PC2-81-4 (Ordered by mistake, as you get one of these with the Wheel Controls Interface)
Speaker Wiring Adaptors: Autoleads PC2-815
Ariel Adaptor: Autoleads PC5-100
Speakers: Pioneer TS-H687
iPod Lead: Kenwood KCA-IP301V
Last edited by greatoldone; 01-24-2010 at 03:02 AM.
#56
Living on the left side of the pond, I didn't know that those speaker adapters existed, so I tore the connector off of the factory speaker and soldered new leads to it. Essentially making the same thing.
I also didn't realize that your Kenwood Unit used a fold down faceplate. My pioneer has a disc slot, so the faceplate is fixed, which would probably explain the discrepancy in how forward the faceplate wants to sit. Regardless your setup looks great!
I used to be big into car audio and have a ton of stuff laying around. Amps, subs, etc. Plus those MB Quart speakers I ended up with in the front doors. So I'm slowly going to build a bit of a system in the car.
Here's my speaker wiring adapter... I haven't cut a single factory wire in the car.
I also didn't realize that your Kenwood Unit used a fold down faceplate. My pioneer has a disc slot, so the faceplate is fixed, which would probably explain the discrepancy in how forward the faceplate wants to sit. Regardless your setup looks great!
I used to be big into car audio and have a ton of stuff laying around. Amps, subs, etc. Plus those MB Quart speakers I ended up with in the front doors. So I'm slowly going to build a bit of a system in the car.
Here's my speaker wiring adapter... I haven't cut a single factory wire in the car.
Last edited by androulakis; 01-24-2010 at 12:53 PM.
#58
I would. The screen size alone makes that upgrade worth it if you can afford it. I'm thinking of possibly selling the avic d3 in favor of one of the newer BT enabled models, mostly for the more modern navigation. I have the latest maps but the map still looks a bit antequated compared to the new newer models.
#60
Oh and greatoldone if you're still reading, what steering wheel controller are you using, and are there any issues with the lights being on or off with it? I'm using a PAC swi-ps, and it works with the lights on (it was programmed that way) but it wont work with the lights off...
I emailed PAC about the issue, and have been waiting for a response beyond the thank you for your e-mail response and that your e-mail has been forwarded to the engineering department.
I think Autoleads may make a pioneer compatible controller but it may not be available directly in the united states.
George