I installed the PAC VCI-X successfully today in my car.

All my previous guesses were incorrect. Here is how to connect the SPDT switch:

Do not connect the 'red video 1' and 'black video 1' lines, just cut them and leave them disconnected.

Connect the 'blue video 2' and 'green video 1' wires together. This is the center tap of the switch.


Ground------------------------------------------o

Blue video 2 and green video 1 -------------------o

+12v--------------------------------------------o


The ground switches video 1 on, the +12 switches video 2 on., and the center off position switches to the original nav. screen.

For the center off to switch to navigation reliably, I found you also need to tie an approx. 10K ohm resistor between the center tap and +12v to terminate the open connection. The value is not critical, any resistance value in that neighborhood will do (8.2K, 12K, etc)....these resistors are a few cents at Radio Shack.

 

I replaced the NavTV box tonight for the Pac VCI-X2, the switch configuration you suggested gave me some mixed results...it sometimes did not switch back to a blank screen on middle after going to Video 2, so I got mine to work with the following

Green_Video 1-----------------------------------o

Blue video 2 -------------------------------------o

+12v--------------------------------------------o

But, I now have a different problem. This PAC has the same brightness adjustment, but it doesn't give maybe 75% of the NavTV's ultimate brightness setting, which is REALLY needed when watching movies from the deck, and the NAV during the day needs a little more help too. I did not swap out the RGB connector from the Pac with the NavTV unit, as the colors were fine and sync was perfect (and I didn't want to tear apart the console again). I do not think that was the problem. And of course, I did recheck the dimmer button, and it works fine...dimmer off (full brightness) was confirmed.

So, i'm off to get some technical support, and if they cannot fix the brightness issue, I'm going to return it for another NavTV unit. I need my screen brightness back. I can live with a reset of the box if the colors wig out from time to time.

 

I had exactly the same problem. The issue is when when blue and green wires are connected together, but to nothing else, there is an unstable memory effect, due to charge being stored on these inputs. That is why I connected the 10K ohm resistor. Did you use the resistor?

I tested your solution, and it has the same issue (just in a different switch position), but you may not have noticed it yet. When blue and green wires are separated and then connected you may not reliably switch. At least on my unit it did not.

I hope PAC has an answer for your brightness issue. If you switch back to the NAVTV unit, the above may all be moot, since it may not have this "feature".

My screen seems bright enough, but I am not certain because so far I have not had it out of the garage. Since I am not using it for movies, I hope this is less of an issue for me.

 

Oh crap, I forgot the resistor...and that is exactly what it sounds like it is doing. After many source changes with my switch, I have not noticed the same lagging as the initial arrangement. I observed it immediately on on the first rotation back to 'neutral' (OEM signal pass thru). If it does it again, I'll remember the resistor.

Does your PAC gen 1 model have a RGBS-RGSB switch on the side with its brightness setting? My gen2 does not, yet my NavTV box did. Old NavTV box was set on the RGBS side, which I think is the typical use anyway.

In the garage the GVN map on night setting (you know, black ground and white streets) it is just bright enough. During the day, I know this just will not cut it.

I found the Nav-TV RGB2+ unit on a internet page for $275, much better than the manufacturers website of $349. It appears to be a new model, and if I go back to their box, I am hoping the color shifting/loss that I was experiencing in the older model, fixed by that inconvenient reset procedure, has been eliminated.

 

The Gen 1 PAC still has the RGBS-RGSB switch. RGBS is the correct possition since the Jag uses an external sync line (not sync on the green channel).

 

now I am really curious as to if the gen 1 has a brighter signal output than its successor. Hmmm...All my wires have plug connectors on them (except main power and ground), if I were to unmount and ship it, would you be interested in testing mine in your car against yours and compare the max brightness settings?

 

My PAC module is currently sitting on the passenger seat, lol, as I finish prototyping my setup. So yes, this is an ideal time for me to do that...let me PM you.

 

BTW, I have now installed the PIE ALP/AI-AUX and it works well with the Garmin GVN -53. On a system with the factory nav, it connects between the head unit and the nav unit. It overrides the AM/FM radio when a the Garmin-GVN 53 is playing navigation audio or XM radio. In order to mute for navigation when playing a CD, however, you still need to tap into the mute circuit for the factory nav or phone.

I also have the HKS CAMP 2 meter display working now (so far without external sensors), but that was a bear. It is not compatible out of the box with pre-2003 Jaguars. After digging into to the OBDII standards docs, I figured out a way to make it work with just a cable mod. It is mind boggling to me that they ship this product with such a glaring fault.

Once I get everything nice and neat I will post how-tos on the entire system.

 

I am going to purchase the Camp 2 unit for my 2000 XKR, would you please explain what you had to do to wire it in?

 

Sure. Quick answer is that pin 15 is a wake-up signal only used in early vintage OBDII interfaces that Jaguar used through 2002. The same wake-up information is also carried on pin 7, the main data signal. All you have to do is connect pin 15 to pin 7 to make it work. The problem is the HKS Camp2 connector does not contain pin 15.

There are a couple of ways to solve this. Pin 8 on the HKS CAMP 2 connector contans a pink wire which is not used. You can extract this pin and relocate it to pin 15. This is what I did. These pins are not easy to extract. I used a 1/16 inch drill bit and a jewelers screwdriver to drill out the plastic tab holding the pin in and then remove the remaining material. Alternatively, you can buy an OBDII extension cable on ebay, and either open it up and make the connection or cut off one end and remake the harness.

The rest of the wiring follows the "some non-Japanese vehicles" instructions on page 7 of the users manual.

Also on the setup page, the correct interface to select is 'BMW1"

 

Sorry I'm late to the party here fellas but here goes.

I can't comment on the brightness issues of the individual units, but rather than use a resistor to isolate the two inputs, may I suggest a couple of diodes. Connected like this:

Do not connect the 'red video 1' and 'black video 1' lines, just cut them and leave them disconnected.

Connect the 'blue video 2' and 'green video 1' wires together. This is the center tap of the switch.


Ground------------------------------------------o

Blue video 2 (diode isolated) and green video 1 (diode isolated)-------------------o

(this way blue only sees +12v, and green only sees ground)

+12v--------------------------------------------o

George

 

Welcome to the party George !

Since all my wiring is currently exposed, I quickly hooked up your suggestion. It has the same metastable state in the center off position.

Your solution is correct if we needed to isolate the blue and green lines. But that is not the issue here. The issue is they are in a metastable state when not connected. I do not have a schematic of the PAC-VCI-X, but the behavior mimics that of floating CMOS inputs...a common design oversight responsible for early hair loss for most digital hardware EEs . A pull-up resistor on the blue/green pair solves the problem.

 

Gotcha... I'd still personally put the diodes in, but if the pull up is needed, so be it. Reason I suggested the diodes was your comment regarding charge stored on the input.

This way the two wires (blue and green) would be electrically isolated - via the diodes and never be "connected" together. Seems like the inputs tend to float, and that even isolating the wires doesn't help. Either way it's an easy fix.

How's the resolution on these nav screens btw - I know this may sound crazy, but not wanting the factory Nav screen (due to it's limitations) is half the reason I don't yet own an STR.

George

 

I really do not know the specs on the nav screens. The 10+ year old technology in the XKs, with their 5.5 inch screen are pretty marginal. On the HKS CAMP 2 meter faces, the small '6' and '8' digits look almost the same, and original navigation graphics sometimes looked a bit distorted.

The 2003 and later S-types have a nicer 7-inch touch screen, and seems to me to be sharper, but I have not tried a side by side comparision with the same video inputs.

 

I hear you. I have the Jaguar Rear screen entertainment system monitors in my current S-Type along with a double din Pioneer Nav unit, and honestly the rear screens aren't bad, but their resolution isn't as good as the head unit's.

This is an interesting idea though, as far as giving options for S-types that have nav.

George

 

FYI, whiteXKR tested the PAC VCI-X vs the VCI-x2, and the brightness potential is VERY different. The X version works great, whereon the X2 version does not reach the correct amount of brightness output for our screens. Use the VCI-X for the best results.

My X2 is being exchanged at Amazon, so it'll be another 2 weeks or so before I can get my NAV and this video switching back up and running again.

 

For those interested, there is a full write-up on these topics now here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=49241

 

to close this up, I did get my replacement PAC VCI-X installed, and it works...video 1 and 2 both (fried another Vid1 it seems with that power/ground removal from the PAC, most likely.

Anyway, with the 3-way switch

1 - l - ground
2 (center) - l - +12v
3 - l - 10k ohm resistor + Video 2 wire (blue) + Video 1 wire (green)

For some reason, I still can't get my Video 2 input to turn off if I go from position 3 to 2. But, if I go to 1 and back to center again, it does go to black screen. I tried increasing my resistance on the wire, but finally gave up. BTW, if I put the green and blue together AFTER the resistor, Video 2 wire does not have enough juice, but Video 1 works fine. I hate electronics. I put Video 1 green in front of the resistor, and it works fine there. It could be my switch is bleeding a little power when on the center pole to the previous position it was in...that would make sense. I remember testing it a couple weeks ago, and there was a trace of power remaining, maybe 0.7-0.8 v when centered.

 

Are you sure you typed the connection diagram above correctly? It shows +12v and ground shorted in switch postion 1.

I have been using this configuration for 2 months now and it has been 100% reliable:

 

Ok, sorry...yes, the diagram is incorrect, I forgot I swapped a couple wires and their function since the last switch went. See how much I like electricity...I didn't even know I would blew up my the car if I wired it as I first drew it. (slight exaggeration)

1 - l - ground
2 (center) - l - 10k ohm resistor + Video 2 wire (blue) + Video 1 wire (green)
3 - l - +12v

I hope I didn't miscommunicate my issue in a prior post. Let me try to describe it.

Switch in the center, ignition on - its blank
Move to position to turn on Video 2, then back to center, goes blank
Move to position to activate Video 1 source, then back to center, Video 1 remains on. Must move to Video 2 and back to center to get the screen to clear. How can being grounded to Video 1 remain on when the the pole is disconnected? I have no idea!!!!!

It may very well be my switch. I'm not worried about it too much unless someone wants to suggest a test and solution as the screen is working...and that's more than I could say 2 months ago.