XK8 Deck Replacement, NAV & New Subwoofer
#102
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I may be out of place here, but don't have time to go through the whole thread.
However I did include our Tech recommended Wood Veneer Repairs in the Interior FAQ.
This company comes recommended by at least 3 of our forum Tech's.
Hope this helps.
However I did include our Tech recommended Wood Veneer Repairs in the Interior FAQ.
This company comes recommended by at least 3 of our forum Tech's.
Hope this helps.
#105
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subwoofers in the trunk of the xk8 is not wise, with the gas tank and soundproofing between the boot and cabin, bass just can't be heard or felt. I tried a 10" infinity basslink, which was perfect in my old jeep grand cherokee, but did squat in the xk8. Someone with 2-12s said he got the bass he wanted, but I imagine there wasn't any room left in the boot, and I need somewhere to put my golf clubs. ![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
There is a good thread about re-doing the armrest, search for padding, foam, armrest and console in the xk8 subforum, you'll find it.
![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
There is a good thread about re-doing the armrest, search for padding, foam, armrest and console in the xk8 subforum, you'll find it.
#106
#107
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By the way, the Kicker subs sound amazingly good for their size. Now my bass-less jag has the low end it needs. Just use a high power amp, cross it low and punch it hard. They can handle a lot of power for 6.5" subs.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036MOQAE
The HK "super" sound system jag installed sucks. But then again, most car manufacturers and their great sound systems suck. The tweeters alone in the doors are worthless.
I installed Polk tweeters over the front of the tweeter "plates"
Amazon.com: Polk Audio DB1001 1-Inch Silk/Polymer Composite Dome Tweeters (Pair, Black): Car Electronics
For the mid-ranges in the dash, that was a bit tricky, I used this speaker:
Tang Band W2-1811S 2" Neodymium Poly Full Range Driver 264-886
Then used a crossover for the mid-range frequencies. Even though the speaker is rated at 20w max, realize that it's the bass that carries most of the power, mid-ranges see much less wattage. You can also use an inline bass blocker like this (select the frequencies you want):
Bass Stopper 2.8 kHz/1.4 kHz 266-220
I hope this helps. It took me forever to find a speaker that would fit in the dash for the mid-range. My car's speakers in the dash were gone, the cone surrounds were deteriorated. I live in the desert and the heat fried them. But anywhere you live, they still get old fast from the heat on the dash from the sun.
The small 2" full range above, I used a pair of dikes to snip off the corners where they mount, put a squirt of hot glue from a glue gun, and fastened it that way. Quick and easy. They really sound nice.
For the woofers in the doors, I used the woofers from this Kenwood set:
Amazon.com: Kenwood Kfc-P709Ps 6.5-Inch Performance Series Component Speaker System: Car Electronics
They sound fantastic, very rich bass and can handle quite a bit of power. The nice thing about this set is you can take the tweeters and replace the tweeters in the rear above the subs. The rear tweeters are a pain to replace if you do it the conventional way. I took a screwdriver and gouged out the old cone tweeters basically to make room to 'push' the new tweeter into the open space. I used a glue gun to secure them, drilled a hole in the sub cabinet to run the wire that goes to the old tweeter, through the sub cabinet and solder the connections to the new tweeter. I put the crossover supplied with the tweeter inside the sub cabinet and used some hot glue to secure it to the sub cabinet wall so it wouldn't rattle.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036MOQAE
The HK "super" sound system jag installed sucks. But then again, most car manufacturers and their great sound systems suck. The tweeters alone in the doors are worthless.
I installed Polk tweeters over the front of the tweeter "plates"
Amazon.com: Polk Audio DB1001 1-Inch Silk/Polymer Composite Dome Tweeters (Pair, Black): Car Electronics
For the mid-ranges in the dash, that was a bit tricky, I used this speaker:
Tang Band W2-1811S 2" Neodymium Poly Full Range Driver 264-886
Then used a crossover for the mid-range frequencies. Even though the speaker is rated at 20w max, realize that it's the bass that carries most of the power, mid-ranges see much less wattage. You can also use an inline bass blocker like this (select the frequencies you want):
Bass Stopper 2.8 kHz/1.4 kHz 266-220
I hope this helps. It took me forever to find a speaker that would fit in the dash for the mid-range. My car's speakers in the dash were gone, the cone surrounds were deteriorated. I live in the desert and the heat fried them. But anywhere you live, they still get old fast from the heat on the dash from the sun.
The small 2" full range above, I used a pair of dikes to snip off the corners where they mount, put a squirt of hot glue from a glue gun, and fastened it that way. Quick and easy. They really sound nice.
For the woofers in the doors, I used the woofers from this Kenwood set:
Amazon.com: Kenwood Kfc-P709Ps 6.5-Inch Performance Series Component Speaker System: Car Electronics
They sound fantastic, very rich bass and can handle quite a bit of power. The nice thing about this set is you can take the tweeters and replace the tweeters in the rear above the subs. The rear tweeters are a pain to replace if you do it the conventional way. I took a screwdriver and gouged out the old cone tweeters basically to make room to 'push' the new tweeter into the open space. I used a glue gun to secure them, drilled a hole in the sub cabinet to run the wire that goes to the old tweeter, through the sub cabinet and solder the connections to the new tweeter. I put the crossover supplied with the tweeter inside the sub cabinet and used some hot glue to secure it to the sub cabinet wall so it wouldn't rattle.
#109
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If you can do it yourself, you'll save a lot of money, plus, you'll know it's done right. Too many hack stereo installers out there.
Will be taking on a new project in a week. I'm going to fashion a new set of speaker grilles for the subs in the rear. The cloth/metal grill now (stock) is really bad at letting air flow from the subs. I can hear it banging against it. So, will make new ones out of plywood, with radius front edge, cover it either in the creme or brownish leather on the upper door, use 6.5" round black metal screen grill and mount another pair of the Polk tweeters above it. It will look like a component speaker. Should be a fun little project.
Will be taking on a new project in a week. I'm going to fashion a new set of speaker grilles for the subs in the rear. The cloth/metal grill now (stock) is really bad at letting air flow from the subs. I can hear it banging against it. So, will make new ones out of plywood, with radius front edge, cover it either in the creme or brownish leather on the upper door, use 6.5" round black metal screen grill and mount another pair of the Polk tweeters above it. It will look like a component speaker. Should be a fun little project.
#112
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skubee, did you download the xk8 electrical schematics from Gus's website, or install the JTIS program on your computer? Both links are in the FAQ thread for the xk8-xkr, and the JTIS download is no charge, every owner should have that for reference.
Blake, same suggestion goes to you, that JTIS program will show you where every module, bolt torque spec, and mechanical feature on these cars, amp included...which is behind the carpet on the right hand side of the boot, above the CD changer and navigation, if you have the premium system.
Blake, same suggestion goes to you, that JTIS program will show you where every module, bolt torque spec, and mechanical feature on these cars, amp included...which is behind the carpet on the right hand side of the boot, above the CD changer and navigation, if you have the premium system.
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Blakeb1 (11-16-2011)
#114
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JTIS stands for Jaguar Technician Information System. The most current version is dated 2004, and since then the techs have gone to an online system. The CD is available on ebay for under $10, or you can download the files from our FAQ page, and create your own for free. There is one entire button dedicated to electrical systems diagrams. Another button describes all of the OBD codes that the car can generate. Its priceless to DIY mechanics like us.
#116
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shickman, even without the jaguar head unit connected, the navigation system will still power up, but it will only boot up - no maps, and no interface with the menu system (all buttons on the dash become inoperable). If there is a disc in the unit, it should still give you a welcome screen such as the clock or the leaper (depending on your version). Even if it can't read the disc, it will show an error.
If you aren't getting any display, make sure it still has power in the boot. Can you hear it spinning when the key is turned to ACC position? Does the screen flicker, does it do anything.
If you aren't getting any display, make sure it still has power in the boot. Can you hear it spinning when the key is turned to ACC position? Does the screen flicker, does it do anything.
#117
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I'm not getting anything on front display when factory head unit is unplugged. I noticed that if I just unplug Ai cable the nav stops working but I still have clock. When I unplug the Yellow 26 pin plug I lose power to clock also. That must mean no power to nav unit. Thanks for quick reply.
#118
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I went back and checked I have power at nav unit just no display. Thinking about extending harness to move factory head unit to changer hole in trunk so factory nav works. Any thoughts to this? I already ran another speaker for voice guidance. I just tapped into front speaker wires on factory amp. Seems to work I just do not have mute for the other head unit.
#119
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shick, since I wasn't the person who did the hardwire in the first place with the new deck, it was the installers who figured out that I could keep the clock (but didn't tell me how they did it); they may have kept power to that one lead that you just found was necessary by splicing it into 12v. I'm glad you found a way to keep it, good job. Now your contribution to this thread with that nugget will surely help others.
#120
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That last option (moving the deck back there to the boot) was something the installers asked if i wanted also, it became a hassle to hook up the head unit to the old harnesses just to get into navigation menu when it was time to change DST on and off. Does the kenwood have any type of video output?