Help needed with getting engine out of a MK2
#1
Help needed with getting engine out of a MK2
Hi all,
For the last 2 years I've been working on my 1963 MK2, but due to lack of time I haven't made much progress (partly due to my extremely limited knowledge of cars in general!)
However, I'm now ready to get the engine out and I must be say I'm absolutely stuck... Before I start buying/renting a hoist etc, I need have a plan of attack. I've attached a picture of how it looks at the moment, it's not a pretty sight.
The 3.8 liter V6 of my Jag....
Can anyone offer my suggestions, help, directions? Anything would be much appreciated!
Vincent
For the last 2 years I've been working on my 1963 MK2, but due to lack of time I haven't made much progress (partly due to my extremely limited knowledge of cars in general!)
However, I'm now ready to get the engine out and I must be say I'm absolutely stuck... Before I start buying/renting a hoist etc, I need have a plan of attack. I've attached a picture of how it looks at the moment, it's not a pretty sight.
The 3.8 liter V6 of my Jag....
Can anyone offer my suggestions, help, directions? Anything would be much appreciated!
Vincent
#2
You really need an engine crane at a minimum to do the job
I also have a balance bar for my crane.
This allows you to tilt the engine as you lift it which makes it lots easier and safer
I assume you will also remove the trans and if you are leve it attached to the engine and remove both as one unit.
On a side note dont be temped to strap the engine or use a sling. make sure you use bolted lift points. A sling will slip as you tilt the engine bolted connections dont.
You can use the heads or accessory mounts on the front and the trans bolts on the rear.
If you need to just just and drill some steel plate to make a lift point
Cheers
34by151
I also have a balance bar for my crane.
This allows you to tilt the engine as you lift it which makes it lots easier and safer
I assume you will also remove the trans and if you are leve it attached to the engine and remove both as one unit.
On a side note dont be temped to strap the engine or use a sling. make sure you use bolted lift points. A sling will slip as you tilt the engine bolted connections dont.
You can use the heads or accessory mounts on the front and the trans bolts on the rear.
If you need to just just and drill some steel plate to make a lift point
Cheers
34by151
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paulyling (02-19-2016)
#3
Removing Mk2 engine
You really need an engine crane at a minimum to do the job.
I assume you will also remove the trans and if you are, leave it attached to the engine and remove both as one unit.
On a side note, don't be temped to . . . use a sling (as it) will slip as you tilt the engine.
I assume you will also remove the trans and if you are, leave it attached to the engine and remove both as one unit.
On a side note, don't be temped to . . . use a sling (as it) will slip as you tilt the engine.
- critical is to get sufficient height, so use an overhead crane, not a roll-under-car type with lifting jib;
- sling is ok in my book, provided it is correct type/rating, and you hitch safely under each end and observe all of the following;
- biggest hassles on the original 2.4/3.4 then Mk2 and original S-Type is the b*** starter motor and many of the bell housing bolts; and the sharp angle of tilt that will either foul the garage floor or require raising the car which makes engine + g/box removal even more challenging;
- preferred method is to remove radiator and all ancillaries up top; then remove prop shaft and exhaust; remove manifolds cams and head; strap/retain timing chain gears so they don't snag; take weight on crane; jack under g/box; remove mounts;
- tilt rear (g/box) down, remove bell housing bolts and starter, separate and lower g/box and bell housing to ground;
- tilt and lift out engine;
- slide g/box forward into engine bay, then remove.
When ready to refit engine + box, get a pilot shaft turned up to centre the clutch on flywheel. G/box and engine will slide together, making the job a snap - provided you remember to fit starter motor and torque up all bolts before lifting and leveling into final position.
Last piece of advice? Don't be disheartened by appearances in your engine bay. I'd say you have a great basis for a fine outcome. Why? Because your pic suggests that all the important bits are at least present. Many of these older models are now lacking parts - and many of those parts are getting both difficult to find and more expensive to buy.
Invest in a genuine workshop manual (or download here on JaguarForums), walk yourself through the job (it's really just a succession of many small tasks that the manual explains and shows) - then at the end, you will be able to enjoy what your developing knowledge and skills have made possible.
Best wishes and don't hesitate to keep us posted on your progress,
Ken
#4
I recall owning a manual & it was well written & very easy to use.
Unsure but I may still have it.
Do not be tempted to shortcut anything. The time will be well repaid if your body shell is in sufficiently good condition under all the crap. Consider also the restoration effort required of the interior, gauges, woodwork, seats, head lining .....................
Good luck
Unsure but I may still have it.
Do not be tempted to shortcut anything. The time will be well repaid if your body shell is in sufficiently good condition under all the crap. Consider also the restoration effort required of the interior, gauges, woodwork, seats, head lining .....................
Good luck