door lock and other advice
#1
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Hi,
My xj6 series 2 has a couple of issues I seeking some advice:
Door locks on drivers door - key turns in the lock but not unlocking the door, even with the central locking unlucked. Just wondering is it hard to replace the barrel myself (seen some advertised on ebay) or leave it to the auto locksmith? I haven't had much luck trying to find a diagram the door locking mechanism.
Speedo - it has recently stopped working, previous owner believed the transducer on the gearbox needed replacing. Is this something I can order and replace, or leave to the experts?
thanks
Clayton
My xj6 series 2 has a couple of issues I seeking some advice:
Door locks on drivers door - key turns in the lock but not unlocking the door, even with the central locking unlucked. Just wondering is it hard to replace the barrel myself (seen some advertised on ebay) or leave it to the auto locksmith? I haven't had much luck trying to find a diagram the door locking mechanism.
Speedo - it has recently stopped working, previous owner believed the transducer on the gearbox needed replacing. Is this something I can order and replace, or leave to the experts?
thanks
Clayton
#2
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Clayton,
I have had very little to do with S2 door locks, as all mine worked as designed.
The arm on the barrel can come loose on the shaft, so when the key is turned, the shaft rotates, but that wear prevents the arm from actually doing anything.
Others I have "played" with, have basically been all "gummed up" with dusty/gritty stuff. I sprayed Silicon Spray LIBERALLY on the mechanism, door trim off naturally, and got them all working good enough. NO WD40 type lube here, as it attracts the dust.
Never had the pleasure of removing the barrel on any of them.
The speedo:
The driven gear AT the transmission (left side near the back), is a plstic thing, never had one fail
The 2 piece speedo cable is a PITA, but rare;y faile.
The 90deg adaptor AT the speedo is a common failure item.
I would take the cable off that adaptor, hang it down by your left knee, drive the car and feel the cable inner section and if it rotates in your fingers, the problem is the speedo or that adaptor, simple.
If you do not feel rotation, the problem is further to the rear.
I have had very little to do with S2 door locks, as all mine worked as designed.
The arm on the barrel can come loose on the shaft, so when the key is turned, the shaft rotates, but that wear prevents the arm from actually doing anything.
Others I have "played" with, have basically been all "gummed up" with dusty/gritty stuff. I sprayed Silicon Spray LIBERALLY on the mechanism, door trim off naturally, and got them all working good enough. NO WD40 type lube here, as it attracts the dust.
Never had the pleasure of removing the barrel on any of them.
The speedo:
The driven gear AT the transmission (left side near the back), is a plstic thing, never had one fail
The 2 piece speedo cable is a PITA, but rare;y faile.
The 90deg adaptor AT the speedo is a common failure item.
I would take the cable off that adaptor, hang it down by your left knee, drive the car and feel the cable inner section and if it rotates in your fingers, the problem is the speedo or that adaptor, simple.
If you do not feel rotation, the problem is further to the rear.
The following users liked this post:
GGG (11-23-2020)
#4
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Push the speedo IN, and rotate, and now I forgot which way, bugga. It only goes about an inch or so, and is easy to "feel" the wrong from the right.I used the 2 thumbs at 2 and 8 o'clock on the chrome rim, push and turn. I closed my eyes the first time, as I was scared the thing would break, did not. I then lubed the 3, or was it 4, lock ring points for next time, HA, next time never happened.
The door locks:
There are 2 rods, easily seen with the trim off. One is the remote lever opening rod, the 2nd is the "flapper" lock arm rod. They have a Brass joiner, and locknuts in them. Sometimes those locknuts come loose, and the rods go all floppy, BUT, that has NO bearing on what the barrel does, just mentioning while I remember.
If you can "hear" the door lock solenoid go "clonk" when using the console switch, then the electrics are OK.
I fitted a remote locking interface (Steelmate from Autobarn I think) to all mine, XJS and X300 included, so the worn out key barrels were never used again. That was 20+ years ago, and remote options were skinny on the ground, but there would be many more choices these days, I would think.
Simple to do on a Series car and XJS, not so on the 300 and the XJ40.
Remove that Christmas tree plastic thing first,it just pulls out, dead square.
The door locks:
There are 2 rods, easily seen with the trim off. One is the remote lever opening rod, the 2nd is the "flapper" lock arm rod. They have a Brass joiner, and locknuts in them. Sometimes those locknuts come loose, and the rods go all floppy, BUT, that has NO bearing on what the barrel does, just mentioning while I remember.
If you can "hear" the door lock solenoid go "clonk" when using the console switch, then the electrics are OK.
I fitted a remote locking interface (Steelmate from Autobarn I think) to all mine, XJS and X300 included, so the worn out key barrels were never used again. That was 20+ years ago, and remote options were skinny on the ground, but there would be many more choices these days, I would think.
Simple to do on a Series car and XJS, not so on the 300 and the XJ40.
Remove that Christmas tree plastic thing first,it just pulls out, dead square.
#5
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Clayton,
You have got the answers from Grant but for reference next time - the place for TECHNICAL questions is the MODEL forum. The REGION forums are intended for geographically relevant discussions such as recommended specialists.
We are an international forum with strong representation particularly in Australia, UK and USA. Using the MODEL forum means TECHNICAL questions are seen by more members around the World with the answers and also the knowledge then becomes more widespread. Anyone searching for information on door locks would have trouble finding it in the REGION forum either with a forum or a Google search.
I'm not "having a go" at you but making this point for general information.
Graham
You have got the answers from Grant but for reference next time - the place for TECHNICAL questions is the MODEL forum. The REGION forums are intended for geographically relevant discussions such as recommended specialists.
We are an international forum with strong representation particularly in Australia, UK and USA. Using the MODEL forum means TECHNICAL questions are seen by more members around the World with the answers and also the knowledge then becomes more widespread. Anyone searching for information on door locks would have trouble finding it in the REGION forum either with a forum or a Google search.
I'm not "having a go" at you but making this point for general information.
Graham
Last edited by GGG; 11-23-2020 at 04:57 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Grant Francis (11-23-2020)
#6
The following 2 users liked this post by Waxa:
GGG (11-23-2020),
Grant Francis (11-23-2020)
#7
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Thought I post my results, I understand its wrong section .
I removed door trim and sprayed all the moving door lock parts with cleaner and silicon spray as Grant suggested (anbout 3-4 time) , and it worked. Door lock with key works well..thanks Grant
Speedo started working!! leave for that now..
I removed door trim and sprayed all the moving door lock parts with cleaner and silicon spray as Grant suggested (anbout 3-4 time) , and it worked. Door lock with key works well..thanks Grant
Speedo started working!! leave for that now..
The following 2 users liked this post by Waxa:
GGG (12-03-2020),
Grant Francis (12-02-2020)
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