Bad Shape Jag =[
#1
Bad Shape Jag =[
Well, honestly I took the car from my mother because she simply doesn't care about it! After washing the entire black x-type 2002 jag, i realized the entire thing is scuffed up and has small scratches all around. Just curious if I should get the car buffed and whats the average amount of $$ I should pay for it to be buffed. Once its buffed I am going to wax the entire car...sooo another question...any suggestions to what type of wax I should buy or does it not really matter and what material (rag, sponge..etc.) should I use when waxing. Do you think I should use paint cleaner before waxing or will it not matter once its buffed?
- Lots of questions as always - mike
- Lots of questions as always - mike
#2
Well, honestly I took the car from my mother because she simply doesn't care about it! After washing the entire black x-type 2002 jag, i realized the entire thing is scuffed up and has small scratches all around. Just curious if I should get the car buffed and whats the average amount of $$ I should pay for it to be buffed. Once its buffed I am going to wax the entire car...sooo another question...any suggestions to what type of wax I should buy or does it not really matter and what material (rag, sponge..etc.) should I use when waxing. Do you think I should use paint cleaner before waxing or will it not matter once its buffed?
- Lots of questions as always - mike
- Lots of questions as always - mike
#3
Mike, save yourself some money and do it yourself. Go to an automotive paint place (not your parts store, but a shop that sells nothing but automotive paint). Find a product called 3M Perfect-It III (may also find Perfect-It II). This is a liquid rubbing compound. This stuff is incredible with what it can pull out. I use this stuff with a bath towel (terry cloth). You put it on in a swirling motion or you can use an orbital buffer. Treat it just like you would if you were waxing the car. After applying, let it dry and then wipe off. Then you can go back through and wax the car. As for wax, I have been using Meguir's Gold Class paste wax for years and it has done me good.
2 notes on the Perfect-It II/III:
1) if using a powered buffer, be careful around the sharp edges of the body. This stuff is semi-abrasive and if you leave the buffer in 1 spot too long, it will eat through the paint. Keep the buffer moving and not covering the same spot, you will be just fine.
2) this product is also good for restoring the chrome back to a nice finish and will even pull out scratches in glass (with the aide of 0000 steel wool, YES, 0000 STEEL WOOL, TRUST ME!!!!! if you want to try this, let me know, I was a skeptic at first too). This one product can be used on pretty much the entire exterior of the car. It also does a good job of removing the haze from headlights and restoring them to crystal clear condition.
I'm sure others will have their recommendation of products. We all have different views of what works and what doesn't.
2 notes on the Perfect-It II/III:
1) if using a powered buffer, be careful around the sharp edges of the body. This stuff is semi-abrasive and if you leave the buffer in 1 spot too long, it will eat through the paint. Keep the buffer moving and not covering the same spot, you will be just fine.
2) this product is also good for restoring the chrome back to a nice finish and will even pull out scratches in glass (with the aide of 0000 steel wool, YES, 0000 STEEL WOOL, TRUST ME!!!!! if you want to try this, let me know, I was a skeptic at first too). This one product can be used on pretty much the entire exterior of the car. It also does a good job of removing the haze from headlights and restoring them to crystal clear condition.
I'm sure others will have their recommendation of products. We all have different views of what works and what doesn't.
#4
X2 on the Perfect-It. Great stuff for dark cars, used it for years. Unless the clear coat is compromised, it will most likely do the trick even with a hand application.
If you don't know your way around a buffer, I don't know if practicing on a black X type is a great idea, you can really screw up (burn through, over-swirl, etc) a paint job in a hurry and black will expose all of your mistakes. And don't use a sander as a buffer, they will turn at too high of RPM's. Use a machine made for the job.
I've seen prices anywhere from $120 to $250 for a pro to buff the car - shop around a bit. And you shouldn't need to wax it afterwards, that should be included in the deal. It's not easy work if done right, so it's not super cheap. If it is, keep looking.
And to echo Thermo, fine steel wool is great for glass, works great for bugs and set-in gunk. Razor blade works too but steel wool is my choice. I worked my way through college as an auto reconditioner for a few years, and that was one of the first tricks you learn. Just make sure you soak the windshield with glass cleaner and then use the steel wool (kind of like how you'd apply a clay bar over a layer of spray wax).
If you don't know your way around a buffer, I don't know if practicing on a black X type is a great idea, you can really screw up (burn through, over-swirl, etc) a paint job in a hurry and black will expose all of your mistakes. And don't use a sander as a buffer, they will turn at too high of RPM's. Use a machine made for the job.
I've seen prices anywhere from $120 to $250 for a pro to buff the car - shop around a bit. And you shouldn't need to wax it afterwards, that should be included in the deal. It's not easy work if done right, so it's not super cheap. If it is, keep looking.
And to echo Thermo, fine steel wool is great for glass, works great for bugs and set-in gunk. Razor blade works too but steel wool is my choice. I worked my way through college as an auto reconditioner for a few years, and that was one of the first tricks you learn. Just make sure you soak the windshield with glass cleaner and then use the steel wool (kind of like how you'd apply a clay bar over a layer of spray wax).
#5
wow thanks guys! Hrm a couple questions I have still...
1. My Car color is not black...i was told it was Metallic Black (I think). Does that make a difference at all??
2. I can use the 3M Perfect-It III by hand with a bathroom hand towel? I would never even try to buff my car with an actual buffer. I dont trust myself.
3. Before hand buffing and/or before waxing... do I need to use a paint cleaner?
- thanks
1. My Car color is not black...i was told it was Metallic Black (I think). Does that make a difference at all??
2. I can use the 3M Perfect-It III by hand with a bathroom hand towel? I would never even try to buff my car with an actual buffer. I dont trust myself.
3. Before hand buffing and/or before waxing... do I need to use a paint cleaner?
- thanks
#7
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#8
I'll try to chime in on this one. If the car is covered with imperfections try what thermo and chris x were talking about. Personally I have never used it. I use a product called Poorboys Polish. It acts as a polish when used with a machine but acts as a glaze if used by hand. I'm assuming its not very abrasive then. You could go with something light at first then if your not getting the desired results go a little deeper into the clear coat.
After perfecting the clear coat I would apply a coat of carnauba wax since your car is black, the carnauba will give it a really deep shine.
Also since your car is black, you will have to be extra careful with it since all defects in the paint are super noticable.
Also when washing the car try to always use a micro fiber mitt. Personally I don't use terry cloth on my car, I always go with a good micro fiber. Wash the car from top to bottom because there will be more dirt on the bottom and you don't want to bring that up.
Remember to use two buckets to wash. One with clean soapy water, always a car wash such as meguairs, and one for rinsing the cloth every time you get more soapy water.
Then to do the car, if you can, use a leaf blower. This will prevent accidentally scratching the surface of the paint when you dry it.
Any other questions let me know, I'll be more than happy to answer them.
Also Dave should be able to give you the best advice around here since he is a professional detailer.
After perfecting the clear coat I would apply a coat of carnauba wax since your car is black, the carnauba will give it a really deep shine.
Also since your car is black, you will have to be extra careful with it since all defects in the paint are super noticable.
Also when washing the car try to always use a micro fiber mitt. Personally I don't use terry cloth on my car, I always go with a good micro fiber. Wash the car from top to bottom because there will be more dirt on the bottom and you don't want to bring that up.
Remember to use two buckets to wash. One with clean soapy water, always a car wash such as meguairs, and one for rinsing the cloth every time you get more soapy water.
Then to do the car, if you can, use a leaf blower. This will prevent accidentally scratching the surface of the paint when you dry it.
Any other questions let me know, I'll be more than happy to answer them.
Also Dave should be able to give you the best advice around here since he is a professional detailer.
#9
If you don't want to use a buffer, I find that Clear Kote Vanilla Moose Wax works great by hand, especially on black cars. It also has very minor abrasive properties, so it will be able to get rid of light swirl marks. I would look into investing into some quality microfiber applicators/towels, as using bathroom hand towels will just worsen your swirl marks. I use DI Ultra Plush Microfiber towels for wax removal and I would suggest buying a DI Hand Polishing Kit. If you have any further questions, just ask. I hope some of this info will help you restore your Jag.
Btw, DI has Clear Kote Vanilla Moose Wax on sale now in case you'd like to try it out.
Btw, DI has Clear Kote Vanilla Moose Wax on sale now in case you'd like to try it out.
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