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Overview:
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Uses for car detailing clay[*]
How does overspray clay work?[*]
Evaluating your car's paint[*]
Safety precautions[*]
Using detailing clay[/ul]


Every car finish shares a common enemy: pollution. It relentlessly pursues your car from the second it leaves the factory until your car meets its ultimate demise. It's in the air we breathe, it's on the roads we drive, and it attaches to your car's paint, where it bonds and begins a process of oxidation.





Surface contamination, as shown by this diagram, is difficult to clean or polish off, yet paint cleaning clay removes it with ease.
When contaminants get a solid grip on your car's paint, washing alone may not be enough to remove them. Pre-wax cleaners also may not be able to exfoliate large particles. In this case, you have two choices: use a polishing compound, which removes a lot of paint material, or use a clay bar. Clay isn't a polish or a compound, it is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminants.

DETAILING CLAY BAR USESClay is not a cure-all or a replacement for polishing. It's a tool for quickly and easily removing surface contamination.

One of the many reasons for using clay is the removal of brake dust. Brake dust contamination, which attaches to painted rear bumpers and adjoining surfaces, is a metallic surface contaminant that can be removed safely and effectively by using clay.







These are the two most common retail clay bar kits available. On the left is the Meguiar's Quik Clay kit, which includes a bottle of their popular Quik Detailer detailing spray and a bar of fine grade clay. On the right is the Clay Magic Perfect Finish kit, which includes a soap-based lubricant and a clay bar.
Detailing clay is also very effective on paint over-spray. If the over-spray is particularly heavy, you may want to seek the assistance of a professional. Tree sap and tar specks can also be safely removed with a clay bar.
Recently, I have also started using clay on my windows (exterior) to remove heavy road film, bug deposits and water spots. It works very well, and seems to outperform even the best window cleaners.

HOW DOES AUTO DETAIL CLAY?I frequently see detailing clay marketing information that reads something like this: “…clay pulls contamination off of your paint...” This statement sounds pretty ridiculous when you realize that you must lubricate the surface you’re claying. How in the world do you pull on something that’s wet and slippery? This myth was born from a fear of telling people the truth. Clay is an abrasive paint care system. Yet used properly, detailing clay is not abrasive to your car’s paint; it is abrasive to paint contamination.

Oh my goodness… did I really say that clay is an abrasive? You bet I did.

Read the patents on detailing clay and they describe very clearly that it is a mixture of a clay base (polybutene) and various abrasives. The primary detailing clay patent (U.S. Patent No. 5,727,993) identifies three unique elements (claim 57) used in concert:

“A method of polishing a protrusion or stain from a surface comprising;

applying a plastic flexible tool to the surface, the plastic flexible tool comprising a plastic flexible material having mixed therewith an abrasive comprising grains from about 3 to 50 m in diameter and;

applying a force to the plastic flexible tool such that a polishing force per area is applied by the plastic flexible tool to a protrusion or stain on the surface, and such that the amount of force per area applied to the surface is less than the amount of force per area applied to the protrusion or stain.”

Detailing clay is an abrasive system. If not used properly, detailing clay can cause light surface marring. There’s no need to fear if you use proper lubrication.


An easy way to think about detailing clay is simply this: detailing clay is a “selective polish” with a built-in applicator. Its job is to “polish away” dirt and surface contamination from paint, glass, chrome and plastic without polishing the surface itself. A pretty simple concept, isn’t it? Detailing clay technology has been around for many years, with roots dating back to the 1930’s. That’s when the idea of combining polybutene (a soft plastic resin material) with abrasives was first put to paper.

Enough with the techno-speak; how does detailing clay really work? That’s what I wanted to know when we (the Sonus team) set out to create a new clay formulation for car enthusiasts. What I determined is simply this:
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Detailing clay works by hydroplaning (floating) over the surface you’re cleaning on a thin layer of clay lubricant.
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When the clay (polish) encounters surface contamination, it abrasively grinds it away.
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Detailing clay shears off any foreign material above the level surface of the paint. [/ol]
Those are scary words to a car enthusiast, but it’s an accurate description. You can see the end results of this “grinding” work by inspecting your clay. Does your clay have large particles sticking to it or does it have what appears to be a dirty film? It’s the latter, of course, and it’s proof that your clay is doing its job gently polishing away contamination.

A big part of our [Sonus] detailing clay education this past year had to do with what makes one formulation of clay different from another. As it turns out, there is a lot that goes into each formulation of detailing clay. Although most of the clay made today comes out of a single factory in Japan, the formulas can be significantly different, including:
[*]
Clay resin density (firmness) [*]
Abrasive particle size [*]
Type of abrasive [*]
Abrasive density (ratio of abrasive to clay) [*]
Color [/ul]
Detailing clay formulation determines the optimal function of the clay and its potential to do damage when used improperly. As an example, professional grade clay that’s designed to remove paint overspray is very firm and contains abrasives equivalent to heavy rubbing compound. Used properly it will remove heavy overspray without damaging the paint. Used improperly, it can leave some pretty significant surface marring. That’s why it’s a professional product.

Most consumer grade detailing clays are designed to be used as an annual or semi-annual paint maintenance tool prior to polishing and waxing. At this frequency, these detailing clay products work great. Simply use the clay as part of your major detailing regimen.
The problem we were beginning to see is that many car enthusiasts wanted to clay their vehicles frequently; as often as monthly. At this rate of use, some consumer grade detailing clay can begin to dull clear coat finishes. After all, it is an abrasive!









[URL=http://www.autopia-carcare.com/%2

 

I can attest that the clay by Meguiar's actually works very well. The guy who used to be my detailer when I had my 3-series used it and it actually left the car looking gorgeous. It even removed fine scratches. I would love to have him try it on the X-Type; however, he is no longer in the detailing business. I might give the clay a try myself. On second thought, I'm too lazy. I'll just find another detailer who uses the clay.

 

This is a whole lot easier and works as good as the old fashioned Claybar..

http://www.turtlewax.com/main.taf?p=2,1,1,4

 

I agree with X save up a couple of bucks and let someone else detail it for you

 

Q: Was it necessary to include woman in instructions with a tight top and huge rack.
A: Absolutely!

I clay my cars once a year, and love it. I have heard some horror stories given that parts of the car were poorly repainted, so user-beware.

It really isn't that much of work that you should throw a wad at your detailer. I guess if you have a ton of disposable income, then why not. It is labor-intensive though and in general your wrists and arms will ache given the amount of detail you put into it.

I've used Meguiar's and Mother's. Prefer Mother's package, though. It's pretty inexpensive. Over here in the states, I've seen them go for $15 including the clay, lubricant and carunuba wax. I've had one kit last me 3 years, (used four times), so it's not costly at all.

 

Has anyone used the Turtle Wax Liquid Clay? does it work any better?

I use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser on the wheels, it works well.

 

I have used it and it is brilliant..and I especially like it cuz all the components of a regular claybar is included in suspension in one easy to apply liquid..Just like washing the car normally and you're done..and ready for the wax.

See my post, two above yours..

 

I've used the Meguiars, Mother's, and Clay Magic bars, and the Clay Magic is far and away the best bar. And it's a few bucks cheaper.
Haven't tried the liquid clay