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Cloudy silver paint fix?

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  #21  
Old 07-07-2010 | 04:21 AM
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From: Orange County, California. USA
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Originally Posted by TopHatChef
Yeah, I would go, but I don't have $600. In fact, I'm really trying to find the money and the ability to justify the expense to buy a DA Polisher (Porter Cable) and some pads for it.
Once you find the money for the purchase you will be happy that you did, Amazon has them on sale for about $119 delivered....leave you with some extra change compared to spending $600.00
 
  #22  
Old 07-07-2010 | 10:30 PM
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Dave... I have noticed that the oxidation is coming back after a few days on roof and trunck. I am taking back in for another go, and they are going to be a bit more aggressive, but I'm wondering if this is normal / possible?
 
  #23  
Old 07-09-2010 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MidlifeXJR
Dave... I have noticed that the oxidation is coming back after a few days on roof and trunck. I am taking back in for another go, and they are going to be a bit more aggressive, but I'm wondering if this is normal / possible?
I would ask the following questions......

1) What process did they use......Did they measure your paint with a ferrous meter known as a paint gauge meter to check mils of paint (OEM is 4.5-5.5 mils).....Knowing the specs determines how much clear coat you can remove for your correction...

a) Did they Colorsand
b) Rotary Polish ?
c) D/A polish ?
d) Type of pads used
e) What Cleaners or Compounds were used
f) What type of Polish was used
g) What type of wax or sealant used for LSP
h) Did they do a alcohol wipe before polishing to make sure that the paint was corrected????

If they only glazed the surface or polished only, they probably just filled the surface with oils to make it look good. This type of work will not last as it will just flash off or wash off.

I would check to see what of the above they did, and let me know......

Have a great day!
 
  #24  
Old 07-11-2010 | 05:35 PM
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Dave,

They did not color sand and they did use the ferrous meter on it when I brought it in and it was measuring all over the map. Most was in the low to mid 4mils and the low was around the gas cap on the trunk at 1.5mils. They did use a rotary, I don't know if they used a D/A in the process.

I will see if I can find out what materials, pads, product, etc. was used.

Thanks for the help.
 
  #25  
Old 01-26-2011 | 07:32 PM
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Quick question...the wheels on this car...they are chrome plated...not just highly polished factory rims right?
 
  #26  
Old 01-27-2011 | 08:19 AM
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I would aggree that Metropolitan will help, their a 1st class operation

For highly oxidized paint try the following; this may help to eliminate some of the oxidation-
• Wash the paint surface and dry thoroughly
• Clean the paint with chemical paint cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) using an orange foam pad at speed #4, this may take 2-3 applications
• Once the oxidation has been removed use a decontamination system (C.Quartz IronX)
• Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell time for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.
• Remove residue and apply a Carnauba wax (Zymol Concourse)
• Try to keep vehicle paint surface away from UV heat radiation
• Keep paint surface waxed on a regular basis.
 
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