2.7D, non DPF car, warmup woes
#1
2.7D, non DPF car, warmup woes
I've got a 2.7D S-Type which misfires at tickover as it is warming up. Its early 2005 so I don't think it has a DPF.
Can anyone offer suggestions before I open my wallet?
I'm in Auckland NZ so there aren't that many of these around here. I welcome anyone that can give me a clue what areas to send my dollars towards. It hasn't brought up a check engine light so far although if the battery is particularly low it will show ABS failure when cranking and extremely occasionally TSC unavailable.
Last year I had the alternator rebuilt and soldered many crimps in the battery circuit which improved the startup faults however the misfire remains.
Can anyone offer suggestions before I open my wallet?
I'm in Auckland NZ so there aren't that many of these around here. I welcome anyone that can give me a clue what areas to send my dollars towards. It hasn't brought up a check engine light so far although if the battery is particularly low it will show ABS failure when cranking and extremely occasionally TSC unavailable.
Last year I had the alternator rebuilt and soldered many crimps in the battery circuit which improved the startup faults however the misfire remains.
#2
Welcome to the forum sheppy.
The easiest way to tell if an S-Type is the DPF or non-DPF version, is the tailpipes. The early non-DPF models have tailpipes that point down at the road, the later DPF models have the tailpipes that point straight out the back of the car.
No DPF:
DPF:
I'd be looking into a replacement battery to start off with, poor batteries in these cars can cause all sorts of odd faults, believe me it's worth chucking in a new battery...
As for the misfire, it could be a number of things, if it's not putting on the check engine light then there may or may not be a DTC stored, but it's worth reading the codes to see if there is anything there that might point to the issues...
The easiest way to tell if an S-Type is the DPF or non-DPF version, is the tailpipes. The early non-DPF models have tailpipes that point down at the road, the later DPF models have the tailpipes that point straight out the back of the car.
No DPF:
DPF:
I'd be looking into a replacement battery to start off with, poor batteries in these cars can cause all sorts of odd faults, believe me it's worth chucking in a new battery...
As for the misfire, it could be a number of things, if it's not putting on the check engine light then there may or may not be a DTC stored, but it's worth reading the codes to see if there is anything there that might point to the issues...
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sheppy (09-23-2014)
#4
You can buy a cheap codereader that will read the codes for you.
I have this one Autel MS309 OBD2 OBDII Scanner Can Bus Car Code Reader Data Tester Scan Tool | eBay and used it on a mates 2004 S-Type diesel, it works no problem.
If it picks up Jag-specific codes (where it just gives you the code without the description) then you can look them up in the DTC master list Ford-Manufacturer-Specific-DTC-2007
I have this one Autel MS309 OBD2 OBDII Scanner Can Bus Car Code Reader Data Tester Scan Tool | eBay and used it on a mates 2004 S-Type diesel, it works no problem.
If it picks up Jag-specific codes (where it just gives you the code without the description) then you can look them up in the DTC master list Ford-Manufacturer-Specific-DTC-2007
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I think the Auto Enginuity with add on Jaguar Enhancements will allow me to do everything by the looks of it. Not cheap but it should pay in the long run. My climate control isn't working as well as it used to so I think I can use this to tell me what the sensors on that are doing too - I suspect the sunlight sensor has gone bad.
There are plenty that will regas it around here but mention a sunlight sensor and blank looks appear!
There are plenty that will regas it around here but mention a sunlight sensor and blank looks appear!
Last edited by sheppy; 09-24-2014 at 06:22 PM. Reason: extra info
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Interface has arrived and I added the Jaguar extras.
No diagnostic codes stored from the engine ECU although others are stored for Climate Control, Audio and Parking. I can interrogate and live graph around 300 things for the engine alone.
Can anyone give me an idea where to start looking? Needless to say it was idling smoothly when I was just playing with it!
I'll post separate threads after I've searched the forums for the answers to the rest of it.
No diagnostic codes stored from the engine ECU although others are stored for Climate Control, Audio and Parking. I can interrogate and live graph around 300 things for the engine alone.
Can anyone give me an idea where to start looking? Needless to say it was idling smoothly when I was just playing with it!
I'll post separate threads after I've searched the forums for the answers to the rest of it.
#14
Got a further update on this, the engine is running OK at the moment but outside temperatures have risen so that may be helping.
However I've just come across the port deactivation TSB and the right hand bank (stood at the front of the car looking back) valve diaphragm is leaking. The valve moves if I put a tube on it and suck but only a bit and not as much as the left one which holds a vacuum.
Guess its time to get the service kit, install it and see what happens.
Does anyone know if they are the same part installed on the Ford 2.7D V6? Jag parts in NZ have many people clipping the ticket as it passes so Ford may be cheaper
However I've just come across the port deactivation TSB and the right hand bank (stood at the front of the car looking back) valve diaphragm is leaking. The valve moves if I put a tube on it and suck but only a bit and not as much as the left one which holds a vacuum.
Guess its time to get the service kit, install it and see what happens.
Does anyone know if they are the same part installed on the Ford 2.7D V6? Jag parts in NZ have many people clipping the ticket as it passes so Ford may be cheaper
Last edited by sheppy; 10-16-2014 at 12:22 AM.
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Further update on this.
The intake kit finally arrived and I installed it. Couldn't get the wiper arms off as they'd corroded on but managed to get enough movement in the access panel to get the job done. It took 90 mins to do and I now have working port deactivation valves. Initial impressions are a smoother idle and a long run of motorway and ordinary roads gave me 41.4 imperial MPG and I didn't spare the horses on overtakes. This I think is at least 2.5MPG better than I expected it to be.
I'll update more when I've driven it a bit more.
Both old valves had a split around the diaphragm rim but only one didn't hold a vacuum when I sucked on it with a tube.
The intake kit finally arrived and I installed it. Couldn't get the wiper arms off as they'd corroded on but managed to get enough movement in the access panel to get the job done. It took 90 mins to do and I now have working port deactivation valves. Initial impressions are a smoother idle and a long run of motorway and ordinary roads gave me 41.4 imperial MPG and I didn't spare the horses on overtakes. This I think is at least 2.5MPG better than I expected it to be.
I'll update more when I've driven it a bit more.
Both old valves had a split around the diaphragm rim but only one didn't hold a vacuum when I sucked on it with a tube.
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Inverell, NSW, Australia
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Hello sheppy . . . and greetings from another Aussie.
My 2007 2.7L TTD S-Type is the final generation with VIN# final 6 around N80XXX, so quite different to yours in some critical areas . . . not just DPF. But, I do offer 2 suggestions that I believe will help you . . .
Best wishes,
Ken
My 2007 2.7L TTD S-Type is the final generation with VIN# final 6 around N80XXX, so quite different to yours in some critical areas . . . not just DPF. But, I do offer 2 suggestions that I believe will help you . . .
- as Cameron has suggested, do check your battery voltage . . . that grouping of apparent faults are a dead giveaway of an under charged or failing battery, so suggest you review the thread Battery 101 for S-Types and the links provided there to the main write-up and regional Supplements;
- check out the entire Diesel specific forum here, with special reference to the threads about the 2.7L TTD V6 and recent appearance of Sydney based firm Chip Tuning . . . I get nervous when I hear references to "misfires" in a diesel, because I have to start guessing at what you are describing.
Best wishes,
Ken
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Further update
Further update on this.
Since fixing the Swirl / port deactivation valves the rough running has improved although not totally. Additionally to this it has thrown an EGR code which ties in with seeing one of the EGR valves bouncing all over the place and my guess is the missing valves caused the EGR to work in a different part of its range.
The fuel consumption has also improved markedly, I'd say its worth around 2.5 Imperial MPG on a run and possibly more on mixed motoring. It is however still an almost 2 tonne car so it will never be that economical sitting at traffic lights. Its also noticeably smoother and more responsive at low throttle.
I've just fitted an EGR bypass kit and cleared the stored codes so that's the final piece of the puzzle.
Will update again once I've driven it for a few weeks.
Since fixing the Swirl / port deactivation valves the rough running has improved although not totally. Additionally to this it has thrown an EGR code which ties in with seeing one of the EGR valves bouncing all over the place and my guess is the missing valves caused the EGR to work in a different part of its range.
The fuel consumption has also improved markedly, I'd say its worth around 2.5 Imperial MPG on a run and possibly more on mixed motoring. It is however still an almost 2 tonne car so it will never be that economical sitting at traffic lights. Its also noticeably smoother and more responsive at low throttle.
I've just fitted an EGR bypass kit and cleared the stored codes so that's the final piece of the puzzle.
Will update again once I've driven it for a few weeks.