Note for 2.7 & 3.0 Diesel owners:

On 3.0 and 2.7 Diesel engine. (not 100% sure though if the petrol V6/V8 have similar too, maybe some petrol owner can peek in to the housing when next time change filter?)
Bottom of oil filter housing are an circular metal holder what have rubber cone valve on it. When filter are in place the cone are closing an draining hole on botton of housing. When filter cup are loosened by rotating upwards the valve opens and remaining oil escapes to the pan thru the drain instead all over the engine surface or mechanic hands.
-> Rubber cone have just tiny nipple holding it in the metal ring and can be relative easyly been knocked off when filter are rotated on with the cap. (adding side force) Therefore its better to push filter directly to the housing, pressing valve cone between filter and hole directly downwards, without forces from side.
(needles to say how important are to use correct oils, to prevent this rubber valve to go britlle, like these oil bath timing belts do)

Here are picture of filter housing bottom with arrow pointing the rubber valve. Circular metal holder well visible, cones nibble goes thru it about 2mm. Cone is pointing downwards to the draining hole what are not visible. Circular metal are acting as an spring opening the valve when filter are off.



If this valve is detached from its holder, the drain hole to the pan are left open and about 1/3 of the oil pressure are losed because extra bypass of the oil circulation. Not sure if this valve have been a reason for AJD-V6/DT17/DT20 diesel bearing / crack crankshaft issues? The failed engines are usually discarded without full examination of the engine after found an total botton end descruction.