I have replaced the coil, elec. igniter in dist, ignition relay, plugs, and gas, turns over very strong but not starting,? plugs show clean no black. just had it painted so this is after the reassembly

 

First thing to check is - have you a spark from the coil ? It is very easy to get connections wrong when reassembling. Has the car been off the road for a long time ? If so, it might be prudent to put a few drops of oil down each plug hole, turn the engine over and try again, as the rings may not be sealing sufficiently to create sufficient vacuum to pull fuel into the engine. You could also try a squirt of Easystart into the inlet. This stuff will wake the dead !!

If it's not a spark, then check the fuel pump and fuel filter

 

yes no spark from the coil ?

 

Is it a stock Lucas distributor, or one of those after-market electronic ones ? You need to check the wiring diagram and the wiring diagram for any after-market distributor.

 

stock distributor with the electric igniter point replacement

 

Check your ballast resistor.

 

ok were is that located pls ?

 

It appears I don't have one it has been replaced by two plug in units, only have the Coil and Distributor with the electric igniters both fairly new, no spark from the coil after checking all connections, any other reason I may not have a spark ?

 

You need to check the voltage input to the distributor. There should be volts to the unit which are obviously then used to trigger the coil to produce a spark. Have you put the leads on the ignition relay correctly. What is this thing you call an igniter ? I'm not familiar with this term, being in England. Who makes it ?

 

Pertronix ignitor is an electronic ignition system which fits inside the distributor in place of the points. Not sure why you would have two ignitors...please explain.

The ignitor in the distributor should have three wires...power, ground, and trigger. The power lead should go to the coil positive, the trigger to the coil negative, and the ground wherever convenient.

When the key is in the on position, you will have 12V+ between either side of the coil and a good ground. If not the problem is one of the ignition switch, tachometer, or wiring. You can verify that by hot wiring the positive side of the coil to the battery positive.

If you have power as described, then clip a wire to the coil negative, momentarily run it to ground. When you remove the wire from ground, the coil should produce a spark. If not, you have a bad coil.

If neither scenariio explains your problem, check the wiring to the ignitor and the quality of its ground. If that's ok, it's a bad ignitor.



Pertronix ignitor wiring

 

sorry only have the one Petronix igniter both coil & igniter are new , previous to me it seems a stock ignition fuse was installed in place of the ballast resistor (see photo) , Trying to clean it up......... a bit of a dogs breakfast. I will replace the Ignition fuse and then test as advised, I would prefer a cleaner hook up than what I have, Tach was rebuilt and I have a direct wire going to the coil from that, so all 4 prongs on the coil are used. Bottom positive and negative for the P igniter, top ground to the ignition fuse and top positive for TACH

 

You'll have to diagram that out...I can't figure out what's connected to what. One thing to be careful of: the negative side of the coil should never be used as a ground. If you need to ground a wire there , use a ring terminal under the coil mounting nut. The item in the photos is a Bosch switchover relay, with a suppression resistor across the winding....is that what you mean by "ignition fuse"? How is that connected? Your first priority should be to determine whether there's actually 12v at the coil positive. Power is supplied THROUGH the tach, so if the tach is disconnect or inoperatble, there will be no spark.

 

I have 12 v to the distb., and a new igniter installed......... but no spark at the plug ?

 

The way the spark is generated is that the coil is supplied with 12 volts via the distributor. To get a spark, this 12 volts is interrupted momentarily for each cylinder, so 6 times per engine revolution, and the energy in the coil has to go somewhere and that somewhere is a high voltage pulse to the spark plug. So the question is - have you got 12 volts at the coil ?

 

John
Leave the Pico Relay out of your wiring for now Use the the diagram previously posted. See below
1. You should have 12 Volts at coil + with ignition switch on. 0 Volts with ignition switch off. (Could be ignition switch wire is going to Pico relay, if so, you will have to remove it from the relay and connected to + of coil.)
2. Ignitor Red to +
3. Ignitor Black to -
4. Tach wire to + or - as per book

You should get spark if you have distributor rotor and ignitions wires aligned, if no spark then,
Could be bad ignitor module as said earlier; it is rare but it does happen.
When you get this sorted , we can cover why the Pico Relay may have been there. I would leave it out permanently.
Rgds David
PS: that extra wire on Negative terminal of coil may be Ignition switch wire and it should be on the positive side if it has 12 v with ignition switch on??? I think the wire on the Negative terminal with the brown fabric rap may be your ignition wire and should be on the + terminal and the white wire on the negative terminal is part of slave relay setup and should be removed. So, Ign wire, Tach and Red ignitor wire on positive Terminal and the Black ignitor wire on is the only wire that should be on the negative terminal. It may be easier to remove all wires from coil, loosen clamp and spin coil 180 degrees, tighten clamp and hook wires to correct terminals.

 

I've cleaned up the wiring and took out the all dead heads and replaced multiple splices with new wire, I have hooked it up as suggested, I have 12 volts to the coil on both sides but no spark from the main coil lead. I did install a new Petronix distributor, but I'm not getting spark to that and so that is not in play yet. Ill bypass the Pico Relay and let u know if I get a spark................Thanks

JB

 

By passed the Pico relay, Ignition & starter wire on + Tac wire on - Petronix wired as required, didn't hook up main coil lead out to check for spark and have none ?

JB

 

JB
By passed the Pico relay, Ignition & starter wire on + Tac wire on - Petronix wired as required,

Per past posts, your model should have Tach wire on + side of coil. Some reproduction wiring diagrams got messed-up on discussion of negative and positive grounded models.

didn't hook up main coil lead out to check for spark and have none ?

How are you checking for spark? ...all leads hooked up, # 6 plug out and grounded on cylinder head so you can see spark, ignition switch on, turning Distributor clockwise until rotor passes #6 lead in cap? or are you engaging starter? The procedure is outlined in Pertronix Distributor instructions on how to set static timing.
Rgds
David

 

my + on the coil is fully occupied by the Pet + and my ignition wire, reason for Tac wire on the -, my tac wire shows no voltage. didt get instruction with my PD Ill check on line and try as suggested...................many thanks JB

 

Change Tach wire terminal end, loosen + post nut, slip new terminal on tach wire under washer and tighten post nut. Module Test below