64 xk-e can't sit in storage forever!
#22
Robert,
Please let us know about this car and what you intend to do with it. I've been looking for a project for ages, for example.
A couple of comments on your situation....The value of the car will depend upon its originality. You can quickly check, for example, on whether this is a true numbers-matching example, although from your post it appears to be so.
Second, since the car has not run in nearly 25 years, don't try to start it yourself, please. There is a procedure to seeing if the engine turns freely or if it is seized. If the latter, there are a couple of tricks restorers use to try to free it. Sometimes these work. Often they do not. If you or your mechanic try to start a seized engine, it can be a very expensive error.
One other thing...if the toolkit is in the car, guard it with your life, as it really adds to the originality, and hence the value, of your example.
Finally, these cars rust from the inside, outward. The lower inner and outer sills and wings are the principle culprit areas. So you probably won't know if the car is rust-free. I just assume they all rust from knee-height to the floor.
Good Luck!
Stephen
Please let us know about this car and what you intend to do with it. I've been looking for a project for ages, for example.
A couple of comments on your situation....The value of the car will depend upon its originality. You can quickly check, for example, on whether this is a true numbers-matching example, although from your post it appears to be so.
Second, since the car has not run in nearly 25 years, don't try to start it yourself, please. There is a procedure to seeing if the engine turns freely or if it is seized. If the latter, there are a couple of tricks restorers use to try to free it. Sometimes these work. Often they do not. If you or your mechanic try to start a seized engine, it can be a very expensive error.
One other thing...if the toolkit is in the car, guard it with your life, as it really adds to the originality, and hence the value, of your example.
Finally, these cars rust from the inside, outward. The lower inner and outer sills and wings are the principle culprit areas. So you probably won't know if the car is rust-free. I just assume they all rust from knee-height to the floor.
Good Luck!
Stephen
#23
Thanks again for all of the input on my situation.
Given the advice from this thread, it sounds as if the car can not only be a daily driver for very little investment, but also much more valuable with very little expense if in running condition.
My intentions are to get the car running first and then make a decision as to how to proceed from there. I owe it to my wife and children to at least experience a ride in this car once before making any other decision.
I've attached a copy of the tool set found in the trunk. It looks as though many of the tools match the original, but am unsure as to if it is indeed the tool kit that came with the vehicle. (A quick google search has led me to many different early Jag tool kits, so I am unsure.)
Thanks again and I'll keep you posted.
Given the advice from this thread, it sounds as if the car can not only be a daily driver for very little investment, but also much more valuable with very little expense if in running condition.
My intentions are to get the car running first and then make a decision as to how to proceed from there. I owe it to my wife and children to at least experience a ride in this car once before making any other decision.
I've attached a copy of the tool set found in the trunk. It looks as though many of the tools match the original, but am unsure as to if it is indeed the tool kit that came with the vehicle. (A quick google search has led me to many different early Jag tool kits, so I am unsure.)
Thanks again and I'll keep you posted.
#24
Robert,
It's true that several different tool rolls came with the E-Type. But given that this was in your family from new, there is a fair chance that this is the original. Good find. When you advertise this for sale, be sure and mention this as it is important to collectors.
Remember to be careful in making sure the engine will turn before trying simply to start it. There are numerous tricks restorers use to unstick an engine so that it is not damaged. Let us know if that's an issue.
Stephen.
It's true that several different tool rolls came with the E-Type. But given that this was in your family from new, there is a fair chance that this is the original. Good find. When you advertise this for sale, be sure and mention this as it is important to collectors.
Remember to be careful in making sure the engine will turn before trying simply to start it. There are numerous tricks restorers use to unstick an engine so that it is not damaged. Let us know if that's an issue.
Stephen.
#25
I've attached a copy of the tool set found in the trunk. It looks as though many of the tools match the original, but am unsure as to if it is indeed the tool kit that came with the vehicle. (A quick google search has led me to many different early Jag tool kits, so I am unsure.)
Here's the tool roll that my 1966 OTS left the factory with in 12/1965. The black surface of the roll has become brittle and cracked with age:
And here is my fully populated tool kit in a repro tool roll:
In addition, the remainder of the tool ensemble consists of a lube gun (which looks to be in your tool set), a Thor knock-off hammer, a jack bag, and the jack.
Many of the items can still be found, but at a price (don't ask how I know).
#26
Hate to say this but many XKEs went out the factory door with iron valve guides and were very prone to sticking ! Even the bronze guides stick when a car sits for a long time.
SO DO NOT START THE CAR WITHOUT FIRST MAKING SURE THAT THE SPRINGS ARE RETURNING THE VALVES TO THEIR SEATS !!! I purchased a low milage XKE that the seller insisted "turns over with a wrench all right, so you know it is not seized" What happens to a car that hasn't run for a long time is the exposed ends of the valves that are in the open position when it was shut off and parked, are most likely to rust, thereby preventing the valve closing properly ! SO WHEN YOU TURN THIS ENGINE OVER EITHER ON THE STARTER OR BY A WRENCH ON THE CRANK, the piston comes up and brakes off that stuck valve !!! Always remove the spark plugs on an XKE and look down inside with a scope preferably, to see that no valve heads are broken off ! Then remove valve covers and manually move the valves up and down and oil the stems ! I have seen to many engines that were in excellent shape BEFORE some inexperienced person tried turning them over or starting them up. Take these precautions before attempting to bring it back to life !
SO DO NOT START THE CAR WITHOUT FIRST MAKING SURE THAT THE SPRINGS ARE RETURNING THE VALVES TO THEIR SEATS !!! I purchased a low milage XKE that the seller insisted "turns over with a wrench all right, so you know it is not seized" What happens to a car that hasn't run for a long time is the exposed ends of the valves that are in the open position when it was shut off and parked, are most likely to rust, thereby preventing the valve closing properly ! SO WHEN YOU TURN THIS ENGINE OVER EITHER ON THE STARTER OR BY A WRENCH ON THE CRANK, the piston comes up and brakes off that stuck valve !!! Always remove the spark plugs on an XKE and look down inside with a scope preferably, to see that no valve heads are broken off ! Then remove valve covers and manually move the valves up and down and oil the stems ! I have seen to many engines that were in excellent shape BEFORE some inexperienced person tried turning them over or starting them up. Take these precautions before attempting to bring it back to life !
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