I am thinking of converting my kitty from knockoff to 5 lug nuts. Any suggestions on which model I can gets parts from. I've heard of XJ6 parts fitting but don't know which year model would work or if both front and back parts would work. I've heard that GM wheels would work with the conversion.
Any suggestions would really help in making decision.

 

i've used camero wheels on mine and spokes off my 91 vdp at times.

 

The V12 E-Type came with steel wheels as well as wire wheels. That route would probably be the easiest - sticking with XKE parts. It's not the wheels that are the main issue but the appropriate hubs (and wheel bearings, etc.) for the steel wheel application. For used parts, you might try Welsh: Welsh Enterprises - New Jaguar Parts, Used Jaguar Parts and Accessories - XK120 - XK140 - XK150 - E-Type - MK - XJ6 - XJ8 - XJ - XK8 - XK - XJS - S-Type - X-Type - XF
Or just look for someone who has an XKE with steel wheels and wants to go to wire wheels, and do a swap (plus cash from him!). Or if you really want to splurge, you can go for alloy wheels that still fit on the knock-off hubs:
Dunlop Style Wheels

 

Can anybody suggest from which year(s) and model(s) I can get the donor parts (spindles,etc) for the conversion from knockoff to 5 bolt for my 72 XKE?

Thanks,
Andres

 

I have a 73 OTS with steel wheels I would like to convert to knockoffs,consider swap, I know this is a really old post but maybe still looking ??

 

Hi TigerandJagman,
Still interested in converting to lug nuts. Can you post pics of your wheels. I'll do same.

 

Here's a photo of car. I'll get some closer wheel pix soon

 

Hi TigerandJagman,
Here's my knockoffs.
Do you know what parts you have to takeoff and change out besides wheels?

 

Looks like what I want. Nice car! I think it's a fairly straight forward bolt on swap of hubs, I'll check with the tech guy in my club. Or maybe someone here in forum knows for sure. I'll do some more research. We also need to discuss how to get together to swap, shipping would be really expensive. I live way south on the Florida Gulf Coast, I may be driving to Houston September 1st through 3rd, did I see you're in San Antonio? My direct email is steve.fsx@gmail.com and phone is 918-693-2511

Steve

 

Hello Steve,
The front hubs are relatively easy. After removing bolts securing the Hub assembly to the brake disk via aperture in disk shield, remove split pin and castellated nut from stub axle then remove hub; a suitable puller is sometimes required depending on the fit of the wheel bearings on the Stub axle. The rear is a bit more involved. Although the hub can be removed without removing the aluminum Hub Carrier, as you both will be installing new (to the car) hubs (it would be a good time to fit new bearings at least to the rear hubs), its a job best done with the Hub and Hub Carrier removed from the car. A spacer is used inboard of the inner bearing to set the correct end-float. A special mandrel is used that has a step that equates to a test spacer of known thickness (0.150" - 3.81mm) that is too thick, thus ensuring measurable end-float results. With knowledge of the step (test spacer thickness), the correct thickness of the spacer required can be calculated by:
1. Measure end-float

2. Subtract nominal, desired end-float of 0.002" (0.05mm) from measured end-float.

3. Subtract result of Step 2 above from known thickness of step in mandrel (test spacer thickness), 0.150" (3.81mm). The result is the correct spacer thickness to fit inboard of the inner bearing.

Regards,

Brent

 

Thanks Brent for the valuable info. Hey Andres sorry for delay on response but this is beyond my mechanical skill. But then I had this idea. If you have a mechanic there maybe I could bring my car and we could split the cost of the labor for the swap and buy our own parts. Shoot me an email if interested steve.fsx@gmail.com. QUOTE=bkeats;1496786]Hello Steve,
The front hubs are relatively easy. After removing bolts securing the Hub assembly to the brake disk via aperture in disk shield, remove split pin and castellated nut from stub axle then remove hub; a suitable puller is sometimes required depending on the fit of the wheel bearings on the Stub axle. The rear is a bit more involved. Although the hub can be removed without removing the aluminum Hub Carrier, as you both will be installing new (to the car) hubs (it would be a good time to fit new bearings at least to the rear hubs), its a job best done with the Hub and Hub Carrier removed from the car. A spacer is used inboard of the inner bearing to set the correct end-float. A special mandrel is used that has a step that equates to a test spacer of known thickness (0.150" - 3.81mm) that is too thick, thus ensuring measurable end-float results. With knowledge of the step (test spacer thickness), the correct thickness of the spacer required can be calculated by:
1. Measure end-float

2. Subtract nominal, desired end-float of 0.002" (0.05mm) from measured end-float.

3. Subtract result of Step 2 above from known thickness of step in mandrel (test spacer thickness), 0.150" (3.81mm). The result is the correct spacer thickness to fit inboard of the inner bearing.

Regards,

Brent[/QUOTE]

 

 

Be aware that one of the reasons you don't see bras that much anymore is they fog the paint and can wear through the clear coat. You'd likely be far better off with a clear bra (basically a clear wrap for the front).