This is the question; Should I close the antenna hole?
I am in the process of restoring my 68 FHC. I have always thought that the antenna, either up or down, disturbed the lines of the car. At this moment the car is in the body shop and I do have a chance to close the antenna hole. I like to listen to music in the car so I do want a radio and it needs an antenna. I remember once having a TVR that had an antenna that was no more than and antenna wire under the carpets.
Anyone know if the under the carpet antennas are still available? and probably more important, what is the general and concourse view on an E-type with no visible antenna?
Thanks,
Bill.

 

Your answers for the concours portion of your question can be found here---https://www.jcna.com/sites/default/f...20-%20Copy.pdf

 

Thanks for the suggestion of the JCNA concourse rules. I looked it up but it is not very clear. Makes no mention if there needs to be an antenna or not.

 

Actually it does--take a good luck at chapter VI as well as the introduction of accessories. Do you have a SPC for your car?

 

Hi Daytona,
Well, the car will be scored on authenticity. To my knowledge there weren't any hidden antenna available in 68. Not having an antenna would be a non-authentic deduction. Now here is the big question, would the exterior judge notice that you have a radio but no antenna and are you willing to accept the deduction if the judge catches it? There is an antenna part number in the 3.8L e-type and 420 parts books that I have at hand.

 

Bob your answer is right but I do not have a SPC at hand right now--the big question is it standard or an accessory? I am pretty sure it is the latter! If so no deduction---other than your situation of radio and no ant. However if they can't see it!!!!!!!!!!

 

Hi guys,
Just to clarify my position and plans for this car; I am not planning on showing the car other than the local car show and such. I am not planning on showing it at a concourse. My concern with the details has more to do with selling the car at some point in the future and having it be correct, or at least easy to return to correct status. I am making some upgrades for drivability that are easy to return to original condition. But, plugging the antenna hole would require more serious work to return to original.
The thing about the under the carpet antenna is that it is not visible unless you pick up the carpet. I am not sure how a concourse judge would feel about seeing a period radio but no antenna, if in fact the car was shown in that condition.
Bill.

 

Daytona your orig. question included concours--local car shows do not approach a concours--normally they are done by French Voting. That said when the new owner decides he wants an outside ant. he can make a hole.

 

Yes, I know that the new owner would just have to drill a hole for the antenna, but I am just try to avoid that kind of thing. Bolt on modifications like a modern starter seems a lot less involved. Maybe I am just being a bit too concerned about the next owner.

 

Hi Daytona,
As far as judging at concourse goes it depends on which club you show at. Some clubs are known for handing out high scores like candy and there are others that take judging seriously. Most owners who are striving for 1st place know their car and know 99% of the possible deductions they'll get. Know one can tell you if the next owner will care oneway or the other if there is an exterior antenna not.

My suggestion would be, do it the way you want it and enjoy it. I would also suggest you enter it in a JCNA concourse with the expectation of having fun and meeting others who enjoy and love Jaguars. Not every entry in a concourse expect to win.

 

Bob-s, you have a point.
I am being careful with the few modifications that I am doing so that the car can easily be returned to stock. But this is a long term view.
We have owned the car for 38 years and are not likely to sell it anytime soon. The car is being built as a driver to be enjoyed often, but I am trying to keep it as close as possible to original.
Thanks.
Bill.

 

Really depends on the judge. I have removed my antenna, I agree with you about looks, and have never been tagged. If you show the car in a Jaguar concourse in championship class, the radio must be authentic and that is more likely to get noticed. In driven class, the radio can be updated and I think you are unlikely to have problems. I am not sure that any indoor antennas are effective and would like to hear feedback from others.

 

I like it better without an antenna. If you look at the Jaguar E-Type Reborn program, the cars are without an antenna, though there is one in the windshield.
John

 

Disclaimer: I could not care less about being judged. The next owner can yell at my grave if they like, it won't bother me.

I'm in the middle of a complete restoration. The antenna is being removed and the hole repaired. It will be replaced by a small foil line at the top of the windscreen (the lead goes under the rubber). I'd be MOST interested in suggestions to add to the list below that would make a better driving car.

Also (so far) the other changes are (in no particular order):
- A jaguar classic entertainment system
- classicfabs long tube stainless headers / exhaust
- ceramic coating to the exhaust interior
- 123 BT distributor with their recommended coil
- Team CJ lightweight flywheel
- oil cooler / spin-on adapter
- Clayton Classics HVAC (Includes heater/evap, alternator, compressor, condenser with fan)
- geared starter
- hybrid battery
- 6-inch wheels with 215/60 tires
- 7" LED lights with halo DRL and LEDs everwhere else
- Suffolk & Turley interior
- poly bushings

 

Mikemilton,
Thanks for your point of view. I am doing some things to my car that are being done with the thought of improving the driving experience, but I am still only doing things that could be returned to original relatively easy.
To your list of improvements I would add better brakes. I am going with Series two calipers and vented rotors. Another thing that I am considering is a 5 speed gearbox. However, the cost of the gearbox upgrade is substantial and I am wondering if it is worth the expense. I am also doing the starter and alternator upgrades along with a modern AC compressor. The engine was rebuilt using a later head with bigger valves and I am installing a tri carb set up. I want to upgrade the wheels to the 6" wide ones but a not sure that they will fit under the rear quarters of my 68 FHC. It seems kind of tight under there as it is with the original wheels. For now the stereo will be a Becker Europa but I may upgrade to something that has Bluetooth. I am also seriously thinking about LED lights throughout the car. On the interior I am thinking of using series two seats with the headrests, and I am keeping my leather covered Nardi wheel. Where a change back would be difficult, I am keeping the car stock.
Mike I applaud your decision to personalize your E type to your liking. You have to drive it, so drive what you like.

 

Much the same list... nothing much the next person couldn't deal with if they wanted.

I forgot to mention vented rotors but, yet, me too

Well, the wheels will fit and you could certainly afix 185s if you want. I've seen 215/60s on a S1 FHC (with dayton wheels) that clearly work, driving experience aside. We anticipate 'shaving' (not removing) the bumpstops and might experiment with 225s.

The (interior) plug-and-play LEDs seemed to be a no-brainer. The headlights are still an open question because they may look ridiculous. Not an issue really if that needs a re-think.

Your seat notion is likely a good idea. I have a 61 in the garage as well (awaiting the 'treatment') it likely would demand to be restored for show (which is why it might not get done any time soon). The point is uncomfortable seats, flat floors that require tiny feet, etc. just does not sound like a driving pleasure.

 

Hi Mike,
The only thing on your list that I would question is the Clayton A/C. It's a cleaver idea to replace the heater box with one that has the heater and A/C. But I question if it will be adequate for your climate, I don't know where you live and the temps & humidity you will be dealing with. The temps and humidity can put a big load on the A/C system. The other thing I don't like about the Clayton system is that it uses the scuttle/cowl duct to deliver the A/C air. It could cause the scuttle/cowl to rust out.

The only thing I would add is an EDIS (distributor less) ignition. From what I'm told it makes a big difference to how the engine runs. The bad is that there isn't a kit for it and you have to designate brackets for the components.

 

The right rear fender antenna on my S1 was welded shut. I also left off some of the "busy" chrome trim including fender mounted mirros. I agree with Bob that the Clayton HVAC probably wouldn't cut it in the American Southwest. My car has Dayton 6" center laced wheels. 205 /70 fits on the rear...215/65 do not (I tried). A 215/65 would have fit with the standard bead laced wheels (less offset). I didn't try any 60 series tires as they would have thrown off the speedo too much and the revs get a bit high at cruise. I ceramic coating the entire exhaust system and went crazy with DEI heat insulation inside the tunnel. An upgrade that is not on the lists is a bank of relays and fuses (reversible if planned correctly). The AC is Retro/Classic auto air. Coolcat fan(s). Rubber bushings on the suspension, but poly for the rack mounts...good ride but a little less squishiness in the steering. My car has a long list of other little mods that make it a good cruiser, but it stays within the spirit and look of the original car.

 

Thanks for this input.

AC - I'm fairly certain it will be adequate for the job. Certainly, none of my other vehicles recirculation gets used, so I don't expect to miss this feature. The ceramic coating in the headers and the first section of piping will substantially reduce heat at its source and we are using lizard skin heat barrier on all the usual panels (it also uses ceramics). My climate is actually quite moderate, the hot days are rarely saunas, and this is not going to be a daily driver.

Finally, I have a decade of experiencing this car with no AC, no ceramics, dubious heat shielding, and the feeble OEM fan. I could usually keep things bearable with a flow of air through the cabin and out the rear windows. Having that flow cooled will be a bonus. This might not satisfy everyone but my expectation is really just meaningful improvement in a sports car, not a grand touring luxury.

Time will tell on condensation in the passages after the AC. The unit itself seems to have good drainage for the humidity taken from the incoming air. Past that point, I've never observed meaningful condensation on cooled plenum passageways (or the cooled windshields) of any other car. The conditions for that to happen are quite specific and limited to times when the passages are cold and there is sufficient humidity inside the car to condense after shut down. Finally, you did not mention the concern for added cooling load from the condenser FWIW their fan looks a lot more effective than the OEM pair (and it saved us rebuilding or revisiting that question) and we are upgrading the radiator and adding oil cooling as well.

I only say all this because the concerns seem a bit 'bigger' than the likely reality. I'll certainly report back on the experience so we can all make informed decisions going forward.

Engine Control and more extensive embellishments. It looks like the 123 unit will give us enough control to get where we need for ignition upgrades. The target is a driver - something between touring and racing. That is an 'interesting' balance to aim for and a very bespoke choice. Also, originality isn't the goal but aesthetics definitely are. So, as much as the car should roar at speed, it should purr at idle and it should shine with polished aluminum if you peek inside. A civilized sports car may be a bit of an oxymoron and there are lots of examples that get too far from that middle ground for my tastes. The real challenge is getting to know what you really want.

 

Your car looks great! I'm quite confused by the many "does it fit?" discussions. Here is one example of a S1 with 215/60s front and back.

NOT my car - 215/60s on (I think) Dayton 6" rims

So, why is it that opinions differ about the possibility of fit? Offset is one variable that might be the issue. Suspension extension (to remove the wheel) might be another. Yet another might be individual differences between manufacturers?

https://www.discounttiredirect.com/l...ize-calculator
Also, above is a size calculator the difference between 205/65 and 215/60 is .17" in sidewall height and a spedo reading of 65 when you are actually going 64.1 with the 215 being lower and slower by an amount that seems (to me at least) minimal. The difference to 185/70s are -.02" in height and -.1mph (ie 215/60s are basically identical to 185/70s except for width.)