Hello again, sorry for flooding this forum but I’m excited and trying to fix a bunch of things at once. I currently don’t have brake pressure. I don’t see a puddle anywhere showing a broken brake line, but I have absolutely no resistance going to the floor. Is this a situation where I just need to bleed them, or should I start troubleshooting elsewhere. Thanks for all the help I’ve gotten so far, it has saved me a ton of time and money

 

With these old Jaguars, as with any other car, always start with the simple stuff first, whether it’s air in your brakelines, a blown fuse, a loose belt, a wheel out of balance, a weak battery, a clogged fuel filter, etc. Then, if the trouble persists, move on to the more complicated possibilities.

Go bleed your brakes and report back to us.

Good luck,
Alan
N.J.

 

So i found a problem. I don’t know if it’s the only problem, but it’s definitely a problem. I don’t know what any of these pieces are called (haven’t consulted the repair manual yet, it’s not at my current location). This 1969 xke

 

Those are brake fluid level sending units (basically just a cork float that monitors brake fluid level) and yes, you'll need to replace them. This most frequently happens if the brake system isn't flushed periodically and moisture that accumulates in the brake fluid eats away at the metal in the sending unit. Most likely what has happened is some of the debris from the corrosion on those units has gotten in your brake master cylinder and damaged the seals. At a minimum you need a full brake system flush to get all the gunk out and you likely will need a new or rebuilt brake master cylinder.

 

So lrgridley, if I were to rebuild the master cylinder, would I just need the repair kit, or would I need something more? I put a link to what I think I would need, without just replacing the entire master cylinder (several hundred dollars difference) if I need something else, can you please let me know what that might be? Thanks

https://mossmotors.com/seal-kit-master-cylinder?assoc=145803

edit:

I think I’m going to go with a new master cylinder linked below for my 1969 4.2 Etype. Thanks for the help!

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/US/parts/b2b8cfdd-81f5-4b9d-9782-bdbc9128a54b?fromList=Search%20for%20%60C26767%60

 

After many years of owning British sports cars, and trying to 'rebuild' clutch and brake cylinders, I finally gave it up. Rebuilds are not difficult, but the one component that is probably done for is the 'bore', the inside of the cylinder. White Post restoration rebuilds the cylinders with new fittings and also "sleeves" the inside of the cylinder in case there are low spots.


https://whitepost.com/#hometop

does excellent rebuilds, but you will have to consult your wallet and decide if it's worth it to send it to them (plus turnaround time) or just buy a new one.

Here is another place that does MC rebuilds. I have used them as well:

https://www.applehydraulicsonline.co...tions/sleeving

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English(U...%20cylinder%60

You make also need the booster:

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English(U...e%20booster%60

One of the ways to possibly ascertain if the booster is gone is that symptom you describe, no fluid found anywhere, but the pedal goes to the floor. I did this replacement myself, but I had a drive on lift at the time. The 'joke' is the car was built around this booster. LOL!!! Then you need to completely bleed the brake system. You need an assistant to press the pedal and you start at the wheel the farthest from the brake booster, IE. rear right.

Here are youtubes for all of this:

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ooster+removal


and brake bleeding:


https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...brake+bleeding

Be VERY careful of brake fluid, it eats car paint and if you get it on your shoes and track it in the house, it will also destroy many types of flooring.

as for those sender units:

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English(U...fluid%20cap%60

It would also be a VERY GOOD idea to buy the Bentley (publisher) E type workshop manual. Here is one offering, but take the ISBN and see who may have a better price. This manual IMO is the BIBLE for understanding how your E works, the terminology and repair and replacement. Here is an Ebay link:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22443925851...ntid=101682617

and the ISBN for googling it is: ISBN-13: 978-0-8376-1764-0


This Haynes manual is not as expansive as the Bentley version, but also good for a quick intro to caring for your E

https://www.ebay.com/itm/32510637356...IAAOSwM1liM501 ( this is a good buy, new ones are $90


Have you refreshed the coolant? Check the level in the overfill reservoir, on the firewall. NEVER open the radiator cap or the reservoir cap on a HOT car. Get a coolant tester:

and check to see how good your coolant is at this point.

Try to avoid gas that has ethanol in it.

Good luck and remember you are charged with taking care of a wonderful car that has MUCH history!

 

@Valerie Stabenow If i were to replace the booster as well (trying master first, hopefully that's all i need), would this part from moss be the same one as you listed? The part numbers are slightly different but it appears to fit the right model, 1969 XKE FHC 4.2L. It's significantly cheaper so i wasn't sure if it was the same or not. Thanks for the help on this, you are a font of knowledge and I greatly appreciate it

https://mossmotors.com/brake-servo-l...paign=shopping

 

I agree with Valerie that brake and clutch system self-rebuilds, while cheap, often don't work out due to wear or corrosion in the cylinder bores. Given the condition of your level sensors I'd say your bores are going to be in need of work too. So best to either remove the master and send it out for a proper rebuild or buy a new one. I doubt your booster has failed, from my experience they rarely do, but likely White Post or similar rebuilder can rebuild that too along with the master. That would be the route I'd probably take if I was in your position. The part from Moss you're showing looks to be both booster and brake master cylinder and probably is the correct part but I'd call Moss to be sure rather than order online if you're going to replace them both. Let us know how it goes.

 

In case anyone was interested in how this thread turned out, i ended up replacing the brake master cylinder and borrowing a pressure bleeder to get the brakes bled. I took the car on a test drive last night for about 5 miles for the first time in almost 4 years and the brakes are now firm and functioning! thanks everyone for the help and advice!