Chopping a FHC
#1
#2
Hi Alfred ... and greetings from Australia.
Your question is a good one, but not new and unfortunately, the answer is a very big "possible, but definitely not feasible" ... and here's why ...
Beyond series 1 and 1a, there were obvious and dramatic changes to the front windscreen and scuttle areas to accomodate the taller roof height and more vertical rake to the screen - all to enable the 2+2. Chopping off the roof will still leave these as distinct "markers" to the bodge.
The real drama though lies in and rearwards beyond the doors. Not one of the rear panels on the FHC or the 2+2 are interchangeable with those of the roadster ... and this applies across all series. I found this to my cost back in the early 80s when I snapped up bargain priced OEM sets of roadster taillights ... only to find that because of the flatter rake of that car's rear quarters, they would not fit the FHC. The bumpers are different; the inset numberplate panelling is different ... and so the list goes on.
But it is possible ... cut not only the roof, but also the entire rear end off a 2+2 and replace with an entire rear end off a roadstar ... but now it's cost us 2 cars ... and we are still left with a bodged front screen and scuttle. Even on the prices of 30years ago when we contemplated exactly the same question (and put a lot of research into it), it just doesn't add up.
Sorry to be a wet blanket, because your question is a really good one.
Best wishes,
Ken
Your question is a good one, but not new and unfortunately, the answer is a very big "possible, but definitely not feasible" ... and here's why ...
Beyond series 1 and 1a, there were obvious and dramatic changes to the front windscreen and scuttle areas to accomodate the taller roof height and more vertical rake to the screen - all to enable the 2+2. Chopping off the roof will still leave these as distinct "markers" to the bodge.
The real drama though lies in and rearwards beyond the doors. Not one of the rear panels on the FHC or the 2+2 are interchangeable with those of the roadster ... and this applies across all series. I found this to my cost back in the early 80s when I snapped up bargain priced OEM sets of roadster taillights ... only to find that because of the flatter rake of that car's rear quarters, they would not fit the FHC. The bumpers are different; the inset numberplate panelling is different ... and so the list goes on.
But it is possible ... cut not only the roof, but also the entire rear end off a 2+2 and replace with an entire rear end off a roadstar ... but now it's cost us 2 cars ... and we are still left with a bodged front screen and scuttle. Even on the prices of 30years ago when we contemplated exactly the same question (and put a lot of research into it), it just doesn't add up.
Sorry to be a wet blanket, because your question is a really good one.
Best wishes,
Ken
#3
But it is possible ... cut not only the roof, but also the entire rear end off a 2+2 and replace with an entire rear end off a roadstar ... but now it's cost us 2 cars ... and we are still left with a bodged front screen and scuttle. Even on the prices of 30years ago when we contemplated exactly the same question (and put a lot of research into it), it just doesn't add up.
Sorry to be a wet blanket, because your question is a really good one.
Best wishes,
Ken
Sorry to be a wet blanket, because your question is a really good one.
Best wishes,
Ken
Indeed it is possible. A friend of mine in Ballarat, Victoria is doing one as I write. His started as Series 2 2+2 and he's replaced all aft of the doors with new roadster panels. Accordingly, it has the same length as a Series 3 Roadster, but no flared wheel arches. Some years ago it was quite a popular conversion in the U.S. and I believe someone was producing complete rear tubs, assembled and ready to attach.
Another fellow I know out at Lilydale Victoria recently converted a Series 3 Coupe to a Roadster. His was a Left Hand drive as well, that went through the conversion to RHD.
Another friend in Ballarat is tooling up to produce the parts required to convert Series 3 Power Steering LHD to RHD.
Regards,
Bill
Last edited by bkeats; 06-20-2014 at 10:30 AM.
#4
Hi Bill, I happily stand corrected ... sort of.
The point I was trying to make is that for true conversion from 2+2 to roadster, there is considerably more work than simply cutting the roof off. If you include all the changes around the scuttle called for in swapping to the genuine roadster w/screen, and the need to shorten the whole tub in the very places it was extended, there seems little point in starting with a 2+2 tub in the first place. Why would you not simply start with a roadster tub?
This you can do - all the panel parts are/were available right up to a fully constructed new tub. My point is that you are going to need pretty well the lot to do a conversion - because most of the 2+2 tub is entirely different. Sure, the space frame at front, the bonnet, doors, as well as many (but not all) mechanicals and irs, would be straight swaps from the 2+2 ... but these are the easy peasy bits - small firm in UK has produced bonnets, doors, and coupe rear hatch in steel, stainless or alloy, and many of the mechanicals are shared with (and in some cases like brakes) actually improved on later saloons. But the tub is a different matter.
All hail those who have done it. I would be fascinated to see pics that anyone may have of the result. Given how fragile the roadster was across the tub compared to the coupe, especially with the inevitable rust that seems to eat at all the floors and sills, I'm not sure I'd want a "stretched" roadster ... but hey, to each his own.
Sounds like I'm being a bit "fuddy-duddy" about this, but the whole point about the top prices being paid for these cars (whether roadsters or coupes) is originality - not conversions. Of course, owners can do whatever with their own cars to the limit of their personal satisfaction ... but let's not ignore the implied motive in the OPs question ... market value. The AU$210.000 for a "flat floor" 3.8 coupe recently was because it was original, and provenanced to the eyeballs.
But hey ... that documentation/provenance/ history thing is another issue on its own, and goes way beyond "matching numbers". I just thank my lucky stars I kept (and added to) all the original manuals, docos, pics and other paraphenalia from the original owner of our Series1 ... I even had the signed and dated Port of Melbourne Customs cert and Bryssons' delivery dockets ... because these days, and perhaps influenced by conversions (especially of former LHD cars), originality is where the premium lies in the marketplace.
Best wishes,
Ken
The point I was trying to make is that for true conversion from 2+2 to roadster, there is considerably more work than simply cutting the roof off. If you include all the changes around the scuttle called for in swapping to the genuine roadster w/screen, and the need to shorten the whole tub in the very places it was extended, there seems little point in starting with a 2+2 tub in the first place. Why would you not simply start with a roadster tub?
This you can do - all the panel parts are/were available right up to a fully constructed new tub. My point is that you are going to need pretty well the lot to do a conversion - because most of the 2+2 tub is entirely different. Sure, the space frame at front, the bonnet, doors, as well as many (but not all) mechanicals and irs, would be straight swaps from the 2+2 ... but these are the easy peasy bits - small firm in UK has produced bonnets, doors, and coupe rear hatch in steel, stainless or alloy, and many of the mechanicals are shared with (and in some cases like brakes) actually improved on later saloons. But the tub is a different matter.
All hail those who have done it. I would be fascinated to see pics that anyone may have of the result. Given how fragile the roadster was across the tub compared to the coupe, especially with the inevitable rust that seems to eat at all the floors and sills, I'm not sure I'd want a "stretched" roadster ... but hey, to each his own.
Sounds like I'm being a bit "fuddy-duddy" about this, but the whole point about the top prices being paid for these cars (whether roadsters or coupes) is originality - not conversions. Of course, owners can do whatever with their own cars to the limit of their personal satisfaction ... but let's not ignore the implied motive in the OPs question ... market value. The AU$210.000 for a "flat floor" 3.8 coupe recently was because it was original, and provenanced to the eyeballs.
But hey ... that documentation/provenance/ history thing is another issue on its own, and goes way beyond "matching numbers". I just thank my lucky stars I kept (and added to) all the original manuals, docos, pics and other paraphenalia from the original owner of our Series1 ... I even had the signed and dated Port of Melbourne Customs cert and Bryssons' delivery dockets ... because these days, and perhaps influenced by conversions (especially of former LHD cars), originality is where the premium lies in the marketplace.
Best wishes,
Ken
#5
#6
Hi Ken,
I wasn't meaning to correct you, I was agreeing that its possible. And yes, its way more than just chopping the top off. My friend in Ballarat has pictorially documented the whole process, so in time I'll get them Posted here. In the process, he removed both sills and installed strengthening supports.
Hi Alfred,
It is a big undertaking for sure, but if attention to detail is applied, its a fairly straight forward exercise.
Best regards,
Bill
I wasn't meaning to correct you, I was agreeing that its possible. And yes, its way more than just chopping the top off. My friend in Ballarat has pictorially documented the whole process, so in time I'll get them Posted here. In the process, he removed both sills and installed strengthening supports.
Hi Alfred,
It is a big undertaking for sure, but if attention to detail is applied, its a fairly straight forward exercise.
Best regards,
Bill
Last edited by bkeats; 06-20-2014 at 10:18 PM.
#7
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#8
I can't say with certainty regarding the Series 1, but Series 2 is no more difficult than the S3.
When converting an S2 2+2, as my colleague is doing, all Series 2 Roadster panels are used with exception of the upper bulkhead panel that forms the division between the interior tub and the boot area, and some minor support panels in the same general area. In this case an S3 upper bulkhead is used; it fits straight in. The Soft Top frame from a Series 3 fits the S2 2+2 being converted without any alteration at all. The S3 upper bulkhead and minor support panels are used to provide the extra space required for the S3 Soft Top frame and to be able to mount the frame. As its a case of having to fit either the S2 or S3 parts in this area, there is really no extra work. You just need to know so that you don't get caught out when it comes time to fit the Soft Top.
When converting a S2 Coupe, the floor pan is the same. Accordingly, S2 Roadster rear end panels are used, and the S2 Soft Top frame fits without alteration. The length of the scuttle panel, between front windscreen and rear edge of bonnet is the same for S2 Coupe and S2 Roadster, with this length being shorter in the S2 2+2, and is the same length as in the S3 Coupe (2+2).
Regards,
Bill
Last edited by bkeats; 06-22-2014 at 04:52 AM.
#9
XKE Kit Car
Since you'll have no real value when done why not an XK-E kit car. Fun to drive and some of them look rather interesting.
1967 Jaguar XKE Kit Car
1967 Jaguar XKE Kit Car
#10
#11
If you care to send me a PM with your email I'll send his details on. Ironically, he lives at Smythes Creek.
Last time I was down that way he showed me where he was up to. All components of the Power Steering Rack assembly of an S3 are ambidextrous, except for the cast aluminum alloy housing that takes the pinion housing. He's created a 3D model from an existing R/H drive unit, and will machine the first few, at least, out of billet material for testing, then decide whether to make a pattern, have them cast and finish machine, or continue with machining them from billet.
He makes all manner of parts for S3's and all high quality stuff.
Regards,
Bill
#13
a little off topic.
1978 XJS converted from coupe to roadster around 1982-83, done in Kent England, some reinforcement bracing, and modded V12 , runs and drives great(thanks to GM electrics under the hood),wide body RHD.
gets a lot of attention at car shows and just parked in front of sidewalk restrurants.
custom paint, Champagne silver, complete redo interior, Recaro leather seats,etc. F/S!!
1978 XJS converted from coupe to roadster around 1982-83, done in Kent England, some reinforcement bracing, and modded V12 , runs and drives great(thanks to GM electrics under the hood),wide body RHD.
gets a lot of attention at car shows and just parked in front of sidewalk restrurants.
custom paint, Champagne silver, complete redo interior, Recaro leather seats,etc. F/S!!
#14
Hi Ken,
Indeed it is possible. A friend of mine in Ballarat, Victoria is doing one as I write. His started as Series 2 2+2 and he's replaced all aft of the doors with new roadster panels. Accordingly, it has the same length as a Series 3 Roadster, but no flared wheel arches. Some years ago it was quite a popular conversion in the U.S. and I believe someone was producing complete rear tubs, assembled and ready to attach.
Another fellow I know out at Lilydale Victoria recently converted a Series 3 Coupe to a Roadster. His was a Left Hand drive as well, that went through the conversion to RHD.
Another friend in Ballarat is tooling up to produce the parts required to convert Series 3 Power Steering LHD to RHD.
Regards,
Bill
Indeed it is possible. A friend of mine in Ballarat, Victoria is doing one as I write. His started as Series 2 2+2 and he's replaced all aft of the doors with new roadster panels. Accordingly, it has the same length as a Series 3 Roadster, but no flared wheel arches. Some years ago it was quite a popular conversion in the U.S. and I believe someone was producing complete rear tubs, assembled and ready to attach.
Another fellow I know out at Lilydale Victoria recently converted a Series 3 Coupe to a Roadster. His was a Left Hand drive as well, that went through the conversion to RHD.
Another friend in Ballarat is tooling up to produce the parts required to convert Series 3 Power Steering LHD to RHD.
Regards,
Bill
#15
Hi Will,
If you care to send me a PM with your email I'll send his details on. Ironically, he lives at Smythes Creek.
Last time I was down that way he showed me where he was up to. All components of the Power Steering Rack assembly of an S3 are ambidextrous, except for the cast aluminum alloy housing that takes the pinion housing. He's created a 3D model from an existing R/H drive unit, and will machine the first few, at least, out of billet material for testing, then decide whether to make a pattern, have them cast and finish machine, or continue with machining them from billet.
He makes all manner of parts for S3's and all high quality stuff.
Regards,
Bill
If you care to send me a PM with your email I'll send his details on. Ironically, he lives at Smythes Creek.
Last time I was down that way he showed me where he was up to. All components of the Power Steering Rack assembly of an S3 are ambidextrous, except for the cast aluminum alloy housing that takes the pinion housing. He's created a 3D model from an existing R/H drive unit, and will machine the first few, at least, out of billet material for testing, then decide whether to make a pattern, have them cast and finish machine, or continue with machining them from billet.
He makes all manner of parts for S3's and all high quality stuff.
Regards,
Bill
#16
Send me an email to the my following address and I'll put you in touch. I don't know if he'd like me publishing his email online and as I'm relatively new to this site, I'm unsure whether you can receive PMs when you only have a small number of Posts.
My email address is performaxcycle@bigpond.com
My son Brent has been communicating with a John in WA with regards to a S3 Bonnet Lower Valance panel he has for sale. It would be coincidental if you're the same John.
Regards,
Bill
#17
#18
Regards,
Bill
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Dagaffer (12-26-2021)
#19
I found an interesting company called Monocoque Metalworks, and they advertise tub exchanges to allow switching from a 2+2 or hard top to an OTS with them doing most of the structural changes. I guess if you exchange a 2+2 you would also need to exchange doors as well.
I still prefer my 2+2 for seating comfort and being able to get in and out without a shoehorn.
I still prefer my 2+2 for seating comfort and being able to get in and out without a shoehorn.
#20