Coolant pipes and heater valve help please?!
#1
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Need some tips and tricks on replacing them.
We took the bolts out of the heater valve but it still won't come off, what could be holding it still?
![Name: 10AA949E-7C16-4DBC-B8EE-59A14310BB3D_zpsr8zsyeh1.jpg
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Also thru the dash I can grab the top coolant pipe (bent one) how do I get the other two? I might be able to grab one from here...
![Name: D1BD653B-DB64-47F9-9593-88093E2542A2_zpstl0iuaoi.jpg
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Which is the windshield wiper motor
We took the bolts out of the heater valve but it still won't come off, what could be holding it still?
![Name: 10AA949E-7C16-4DBC-B8EE-59A14310BB3D_zpsr8zsyeh1.jpg
Views: 671
Size: 205.9 KB](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/e-type-xk-e-59/153060d1501206581-coolant-pipes-heater-valve-help-please-10aa949e-7c16-4dbc-b8ee-59a14310bb3d_zpsr8zsyeh1.jpg)
Also thru the dash I can grab the top coolant pipe (bent one) how do I get the other two? I might be able to grab one from here...
![Name: D1BD653B-DB64-47F9-9593-88093E2542A2_zpstl0iuaoi.jpg
Views: 453
Size: 284.6 KB](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/e-type-xk-e-59/153061d1501206581-coolant-pipes-heater-valve-help-please-d1bd653b-db64-47f9-9593-88093e2542a2_zpstl0iuaoi.jpg)
Which is the windshield wiper motor
Last edited by 1970WillowGreen; 01-01-2016 at 06:43 PM.
#2
#4
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It was a long time ago that I did this, so the memory may be playing tricks, but I think the process was made much easier by having the dash top pad out. It's not so much reaching the pipes as getting the old ones out and the new ones in. The old ones may be cut in half to make extraction easier, but getting the new ones in place is the real pain. This pipe change-out is one of the famous four-letter-word vocabulary builders in E-Type restoration.
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just finished replacing the valve on my '70...Fortunately the pipes were still in pretty good shape, but the valve would not come off, no matter what I did....
Now , I knew the valve was no good, so I was going to replace it anyway...I did not know the condition of the pipe.
After working for several hours, I finally "bit the bullet", and used my Dremel, with a fiber cutting wheel, and carefully cut between the valve and the stand off....I cut on both sides, as deep as I dared, without cutting so deep it would damage the pipe.
I then pryed into the grooves created by the cut, between the stand off and the valve..
Once there was a slight movement, I used two locking pliers, and twisted the valve away from the stand off....
Once the valve was off, I was able to twist the stand off away from the pipe....I might add that during the process, I used PB Blaster in the cuts....
Fortunately the pipe wasn't damaged,,,,The valve and stand off have been replaced, and all is "well".
What I surmised, was that there was some corrosion, but the main thing holding the valve and stand off on, was the hardened "O" ring, between them....
One more thing...You have to remove the clamp, holding the cable sheath, completely off , to do remove the valve.
Now wondering if using a hand-held propane torch, between the two, would have loosened them????
Edward
Now , I knew the valve was no good, so I was going to replace it anyway...I did not know the condition of the pipe.
After working for several hours, I finally "bit the bullet", and used my Dremel, with a fiber cutting wheel, and carefully cut between the valve and the stand off....I cut on both sides, as deep as I dared, without cutting so deep it would damage the pipe.
I then pryed into the grooves created by the cut, between the stand off and the valve..
Once there was a slight movement, I used two locking pliers, and twisted the valve away from the stand off....
Once the valve was off, I was able to twist the stand off away from the pipe....I might add that during the process, I used PB Blaster in the cuts....
Fortunately the pipe wasn't damaged,,,,The valve and stand off have been replaced, and all is "well".
What I surmised, was that there was some corrosion, but the main thing holding the valve and stand off on, was the hardened "O" ring, between them....
One more thing...You have to remove the clamp, holding the cable sheath, completely off , to do remove the valve.
Now wondering if using a hand-held propane torch, between the two, would have loosened them????
Edward
Last edited by Mr. Barry; 01-03-2016 at 09:58 AM.
#7
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#8
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just finished replacing the valve on my '70...Fortunately the pipes were still in pretty good shape, but the valve would not come off, no matter what I did....
Now , I knew the valve was no good, so I was going to replace it anyway...I did not know the condition of the pipe.
After working for several hours, I finally "bit the bullet", and used my Dremel, with a fiber cutting wheel, and carefully cut between the valve and the stand off....I cut on both sides, as deep as I dared, without cutting so deep it would damage the pipe.
I then pryed into the grooves created by the cut, between the stand off and the valve..
Once there was a slight movement, I used two locking pliers, and twisted the valve away from the stand off....
Once the valve was off, I was able to twist the stand off away from the pipe....I might add that during the process, I used PB Blaster in the cuts....
Fortunately the pipe wasn't damaged,,,,The valve and stand off have been replaced, and all is "well".
What I surmised, was that there was some corrosion, but the main thing holding the valve and stand off on, was the hardened "O" ring, between them....
One more thing...You have to remove the clamp, holding the cable sheath, completely off , to do remove the valve.
Now wondering if using a hand-held propane torch, between the two, would have loosened them????
Edward
Now , I knew the valve was no good, so I was going to replace it anyway...I did not know the condition of the pipe.
After working for several hours, I finally "bit the bullet", and used my Dremel, with a fiber cutting wheel, and carefully cut between the valve and the stand off....I cut on both sides, as deep as I dared, without cutting so deep it would damage the pipe.
I then pryed into the grooves created by the cut, between the stand off and the valve..
Once there was a slight movement, I used two locking pliers, and twisted the valve away from the stand off....
Once the valve was off, I was able to twist the stand off away from the pipe....I might add that during the process, I used PB Blaster in the cuts....
Fortunately the pipe wasn't damaged,,,,The valve and stand off have been replaced, and all is "well".
What I surmised, was that there was some corrosion, but the main thing holding the valve and stand off on, was the hardened "O" ring, between them....
One more thing...You have to remove the clamp, holding the cable sheath, completely off , to do remove the valve.
Now wondering if using a hand-held propane torch, between the two, would have loosened them????
Edward
#9
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It was a long time ago that I did this, so the memory may be playing tricks, but I think the process was made much easier by having the dash top pad out. It's not so much reaching the pipes as getting the old ones out and the new ones in. The old ones may be cut in half to make extraction easier, but getting the new ones in place is the real pain. This pipe change-out is one of the famous four-letter-word vocabulary builders in E-Type restoration.
#10
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