Detaching radius arms
#1
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My etype needs a new universal joint which requires dropping the rear suspension. I have done this before and do not remember it being a big problem. This time however, I cannot release the radius arms (either one). The rubber attachments to the car body have withstood all the persuasion I can muster. Anyone have a suggestion?
#2
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My etype needs a new universal joint which requires dropping the rear suspension. I have done this before and do not remember it being a big problem. This time however, I cannot release the radius arms (either one). The rubber attachments to the car body have withstood all the persuasion I can muster. Anyone have a suggestion?
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Bruce W (01-22-2024)
#3
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Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, I have done a PB Blaster overnight soak. I have also removed all other connections and lowered the jack so the mounting rubbers were the sole support for the suspension. Have also used wood wedges to try to force the suspension off. No success with any of this. Have not resorted to explosives yet.
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Bruce W (01-22-2024)
#4
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Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, I have done a PB Blaster overnight soak. I have also removed all other connections and lowered the jack so the mounting rubbers were the sole support for the suspension. Have also used wood wedges to try to force the suspension off. No success with any of this. Have not resorted to explosives yet.
#5
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This might sound terrible, but it worked on my XJ-S... One side came of reasonably easily while other side was really stubborn. I used a lot of Kroil (my go-to fluid to penetrating fluid). The pry bar I use fits really well in the bushing and I've used it without issue to successfully remove trailing arms from several E-Types. I put all my might (not that there's much) to lever off the trailing arm. This was a lifting direction. I put a floor jack under the pry bar handle and put a little more tension on the pry bar. (I didn't go wild!) After an hour or so under tension there was a satisfying bang. The trailing arm came off with no ill effects. I think the tension applied over time helps the penetrating fluid do its job.
HTH, Dave
HTH, Dave
#6
#7
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Use the right angle end of the middle one of these pry bars to walk it out. They tend to get covered in the rubber so don't use your good quality ones
https://www.harborfreight.com/pry-ba...ece-68339.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/pry-ba...ece-68339.html
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#8
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I've had them rusted solid to the bosses. What I did was to use a torch to melt out the rubber (keep a hose handy). Once the arm was out of the way, I used a hacksaw and chisel to split the mounting cup, and then it just peeled off the boss. If you don't want to use a torch, you can cut the rubber with a hacksaw blade, but it's very slow work.
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enderle (01-17-2024)
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