--- or do you buy a new one? They seem to be pricey.

Looking at it, it looks like it can easily be rebuilt by getting the appropriate sized fuel line hose. Mine looks like crap. Also, the line going back to the tank looks about the same. Prolly from '63

 

Replace it....if your doing the carbs anyway, get the new washers and all as well....its worth it, the new gas is a killer as well.
The lines will be clean and new. Also the joints wont be weak , check for cracks on the old one or just throw it out.
Good luck!
GTJOEY1314

 

I would attempt a clean-up. Is the line cracked and leaking? The OEMs are always best.

 

I'm the first to restore instead of replace, but in these situations, the new gas in the states has a LARGE content of water/ethanol when it sits. Unless your driving your etype EVERYDAY, look inside your lines and where the banjo nuts go. I can guess its got a red rusty powdery texture as the water in the gas is rusting everything out.
I put 8 to 10 thousand miles on my etype per year and still need to constantly change the lines,filters and the rest, its a constant battle with the new gas but I NEVER GET STUCK breaking down.
Also most of the major suppliers cad plate the lines and fuel tanks so the moisture doesn't effect rusting in the tank or lines. Your parts are 50 years old. Half a century, IMHO , if your taking loved ones, grandkids , for a ride , I think a couple of bucks is worth not having a fire.
Just my two cents.
Good luck either way.

 

Hello Lagonia,
The fuel line at the carburetor of your car was originally made of copper tubing and nickel plated. The finish of the plating is contingent on the substrate finish. If the copper were to be polished, the nickel finish would be quite shinny. If bead blasted, or etched, the finish would be a dull silver finish.

As this fuel line is copper, there will be no rusting, but they can still be clogged with rust sediment from the steel lines further back. However, on your car, the fuel filter was ahead of most of the steel lines.

The cad plating of OEM fuel lines, would in fact be Zinc plating, as cad plating has all but been phased out. There are very few cad plating plants to be found today. The typical silvery appearance of the fuel lines today would be zinc plated, clear passivated.

If you take a look at a Zinc Plated part that has a bore, you will note that there is a good covering of Zinc on the outside surfaces, but, depending on the size of the bore, far less, or practically no plating in the bore. Accordingly, with the size of the bore of a fuel line, there would be no plating in the bore of OEM fuel lines.

The fuel line in your picture is clearly copper and the banjo joints have been silver soldered on. This fuel line is relatively easy to make and even if you have no silver soldering skill, you will with very little practice. If you already have, or you're willing to purchase a propane gas torch, just with a small hand held cylinder attached (not much money), then you will be able to make the fuel lines yourself.

You can use the existing banjo joints. These are removed by melting the silver solder and withdrawing the old copper tube. The heat should be applied more on the area of the banjo joint, where the copper tube is seated in the joint, than on the copper tube itself.

The bends are not very tight, so are easy to make. If the tubing seems hard to bend, or becomes hard to bend during the process, heat the tubing to a colour just above dull red and quench in water to anneal it.

If you want the original silvery colour, have the completed fuel line nickel, or zinc plated (clear passivated).

Regards,

Brent

 

Ah! I see there is confusion!

Looking back at the picture I posted, I realize the the fuel line appears to be 100% copper. IT IS NOT! The joints appear to be plated copper but the lines running between the joints is (what used to be) clear tubing! Hence by question of rebuilding - ie: remove the tubing and install modern fuel line. In lieu of that, of course, is purchasing a complete unit. Not an issue with that but if this is something that is rebuildable for a few dollars (which appears to be), why toss away a couple of hundred bucks....

I am in the process or rebuilding the carburetors - and yes - a lot of rusty dust found in the bottom of the float chambers.

 

bkeats means well, But I just looked at a brand new one from ANY of this forums suppliers. They are STILL made by Burlen the original manufacturer with all modern coatings and looked to be polished out to the nines......for $225 dollars.
IMHO it looks like the T and A and your done.
Again, just my two cents and yes the rust is a HUGE problem because of the gas, I replaced all my rubber lines with Fuel injection hose only as they withstand the new gas far better than old conventional hose. Its maybe 25 cents more?
Good luck.
P.S. when you looks at mine that was painted with siver paint back in the day and was coated underneath , lasts forever. Not as pretty as the new ones though , everyone wants bling so for 225 dollars its really sweet looking.
GTJOEY1314

 

The joints are cleaned and sandblasted. The old fuel hose is shown as well.

I will prime and paint the joints and use 5/16" fuel injection hose.

I will have to replace the hose going from the fuel filter bowl to the gas tank as well. It is made of the same material.

 

I rebuilt it. I am also replacing *all* fuel line from tanks to the engine bay with high quality fuel injection hose.