E-type advice
#1
E-type advice
Hi everyone! I could use a bit of advice on a 1965 Jaguar 6cyl E-type I am working on. I inherited it from my father and now have the time to get it running.
When I first got into it everything was stripped down except for the engine which my father had done. I don't believe he did any work to the engine itself where it was left off. From what my mother was telling me there was a lot of white smoke coming from the exhaust, so I decided to check the compression which was good even after sitting for 10+ years. I know my dad had bought the triple Weber to replace the Stromberg carbs, which is why I thought he had taken everything apart. But I don't understand why it appears that he was going to dismantle the engine as well.
The advice I was given already is to just clean everything up and put it back together to see what problems it has and go from there. Does anyone have any advice they could chip in on this? Would be very much appreciated!
When I first got into it everything was stripped down except for the engine which my father had done. I don't believe he did any work to the engine itself where it was left off. From what my mother was telling me there was a lot of white smoke coming from the exhaust, so I decided to check the compression which was good even after sitting for 10+ years. I know my dad had bought the triple Weber to replace the Stromberg carbs, which is why I thought he had taken everything apart. But I don't understand why it appears that he was going to dismantle the engine as well.
The advice I was given already is to just clean everything up and put it back together to see what problems it has and go from there. Does anyone have any advice they could chip in on this? Would be very much appreciated!
#2
#3
#5
Welcome TrentK,
Lots of white spoke normally indicates water/coolant in the combustion chamber. This could be caused by a cracked head/water jacket or a blown head gasket allowing water into the chamber. So, you could assemble everything and try to get it running to determine exactly what is wrong and then disassemble everything to get it fixed. Or, bite the bullit and have the engine done now. Anyhow, Good luck.
Bill.
Lots of white spoke normally indicates water/coolant in the combustion chamber. This could be caused by a cracked head/water jacket or a blown head gasket allowing water into the chamber. So, you could assemble everything and try to get it running to determine exactly what is wrong and then disassemble everything to get it fixed. Or, bite the bullit and have the engine done now. Anyhow, Good luck.
Bill.
#6
With the engine being partially disassembled already, pulling the head and checking the condition of the head and the head gasket would be the thing to do before reassembly of anything else. If this was blowing white smoke before being parked, something blew, hopefully just the head gasket. Can't do any further diagnosis til you know the head and the head gasket are no longer a problem. Don't forget to replace those head studs. Since this car has been sitting idle for 10+ years, the best thing to do would be to go thru the entire cooling system. Rubber and seals do not fair well and dry out when sitting idle for very long periods of time. Cooling fans and relays get finicky too.
#7
Totally agree with the 'pull it now' advice . . .
Especially with all the ancillaries already removed, it's only half the job if done now. You don't need the pain of reassembly followed by a complete pull-down, just to find that internals like t/c tensioner, oil pump etc are not up to snuff.
However, before you do, I advise two areas to do a careful and detailed search . . . inspect the gearbox output shaft for any sign of oil seal leakage as this will determine if you pull both engine and gearbox together. I would anyway. Then, when you do part engine and g/box, check bell housing and flywheel for any oil seal leaks from either.
I belong to the brigade who hates low mileage, seldom use cars, especially the otherwise brilliant XK engined Jaguars.
You will discover plenty to ponder, but I will give you a huge tip that most either don't know or ignore . . . brake fluid, being hygroscopic, attracts and accumulates copious moisture which, over many years, will rust all metal brake lines from the inside out. With engine out and access under, it is a simple job to replace all the under-body lines.
Above all else, your Dad has left you a fine inheritance. Do the job well, as he would have done, and it will take pride of place as a family heirloom. Above all else, have fun in the journey. I promise you will not be disappointed.
Best wishes,
Ken
Especially with all the ancillaries already removed, it's only half the job if done now. You don't need the pain of reassembly followed by a complete pull-down, just to find that internals like t/c tensioner, oil pump etc are not up to snuff.
However, before you do, I advise two areas to do a careful and detailed search . . . inspect the gearbox output shaft for any sign of oil seal leakage as this will determine if you pull both engine and gearbox together. I would anyway. Then, when you do part engine and g/box, check bell housing and flywheel for any oil seal leaks from either.
I belong to the brigade who hates low mileage, seldom use cars, especially the otherwise brilliant XK engined Jaguars.
You will discover plenty to ponder, but I will give you a huge tip that most either don't know or ignore . . . brake fluid, being hygroscopic, attracts and accumulates copious moisture which, over many years, will rust all metal brake lines from the inside out. With engine out and access under, it is a simple job to replace all the under-body lines.
Above all else, your Dad has left you a fine inheritance. Do the job well, as he would have done, and it will take pride of place as a family heirloom. Above all else, have fun in the journey. I promise you will not be disappointed.
Best wishes,
Ken
The following 3 users liked this post by cat_as_trophy:
Trending Topics
#8
Having been through the "white smoke" problem , once you remove the head, have it checked by an expert to determine if there are cracks between the valves. This is common on engines that have been over heated. Aluminum heads do not like over heating. If this turns out to be your problem, it can be repaired, but it's not cheap. Even if you do find a bad head gasket, make sure you have the head inspected.
Pulling the head on this engine is not a simple job either. Improper separation of the head from the block, can further damage the head. If you are not a really adept mechanic, with good tools, turn the whole job over to an expert. After removing the head nuts, I had to use an engine hoist, and a lot of plastic wedges to get the head off my engine. It lifted the whole front of the car before it came off. Don't forget, since this is overhead cams, the timing chain and sprockets have to be separated from the camshafts, before the camshafts can be lifted out. It's not like an American V8 !
Edward
Pulling the head on this engine is not a simple job either. Improper separation of the head from the block, can further damage the head. If you are not a really adept mechanic, with good tools, turn the whole job over to an expert. After removing the head nuts, I had to use an engine hoist, and a lot of plastic wedges to get the head off my engine. It lifted the whole front of the car before it came off. Don't forget, since this is overhead cams, the timing chain and sprockets have to be separated from the camshafts, before the camshafts can be lifted out. It's not like an American V8 !
Edward
Last edited by Mr. Barry; 07-01-2021 at 09:38 AM.
#9
Pull the head
Pull the head.Soak cylinder studs with Kroil for at least a week.
Check the condition of the bores. If lucky hone the bores and install new rings and rod bearings.
Have the head checked by a competent
machine shop and replace the valve guide seals. Have head checked for cracks and resurface it. Let the machine shop set the valve clearances for you. Retain original stock carbs and have them rebuilt. Weber’s are complicated to tune and totally unnecessary for a street car.
Recore the radiator and make damn sure you have the right type of thermostat!
Check the condition of the bores. If lucky hone the bores and install new rings and rod bearings.
Have the head checked by a competent
machine shop and replace the valve guide seals. Have head checked for cracks and resurface it. Let the machine shop set the valve clearances for you. Retain original stock carbs and have them rebuilt. Weber’s are complicated to tune and totally unnecessary for a street car.
Recore the radiator and make damn sure you have the right type of thermostat!
The following users liked this post:
enderle (07-02-2021)
#10
I ask because what we see of the car, looks in good shape. Time for some reassurance. Once set up perfectly, they purr like a kitten and can last a lifetime. The XK engine in my avatar Jag was overhauled at 125,000 miles, was checked and rebuilt, then did even more after that.
You say you have time to do this . . . then get the workshop manual and start reading. Contrary to the opinions of many who hand these engines over to workshops, they are not complicated. I guarantee that, for example, if you seat the valves and spend several nights with packets of valve bucket shims, you will strive to do it perfectly. It is time consuming . . . but not hard, nor need it be expensive.
My journey on these machines started as a young bloke who knew nothing but the passion of wanting a Jag. That's it in my avatar from 1969 and countless have followed over the past 50+ years. From that experience, I leave you with just one sobering thought . . . I would gladly undertake any XK engine rebuild (a walk in the park compared to the DOHC 5L 32 valve V8 I am doing right now) rather than deal with an E-Type's rotting sills and floor.
Best wishes Trent,
The following users liked this post:
JagGuardian (07-14-2021)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
E-Type Erik
US Northwest
7
11-16-2020 02:50 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)