E-Type Over-heating
#1
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Hello,
I'm inquiring for my dad. He has a 1964 3.8 Liter Series 1 Jaguar. It is overheating.
He has replaced the thermostat. He also replaced the anti-freeze 50/50 mix with a 70% glycol mix.
He would like to replace the 2-blade fan with a 10-blade fan.
Does anyone know where he can get a retrofit in either the U.S. or Canada?
Or do you have other suggestions.
Thank you.
I'm inquiring for my dad. He has a 1964 3.8 Liter Series 1 Jaguar. It is overheating.
He has replaced the thermostat. He also replaced the anti-freeze 50/50 mix with a 70% glycol mix.
He would like to replace the 2-blade fan with a 10-blade fan.
Does anyone know where he can get a retrofit in either the U.S. or Canada?
Or do you have other suggestions.
Thank you.
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Welcome to the forum Dad's Jag,
Here in the UK, a conversion kit is available from Revotec:
Revotec Automotive Cooling Specialists
Another aftermarket option is manufactured by Kenlowe and available from SC Parts in the UK:
Kenlowe fan kits for Jaguar and Daimler - SC Parts - Kenlowe fan kits for Jaguar and Daimler
In the US, the Cool Cat Corp fan gets good recommendations:
CoolCat Express Corp.: Cooling System
I hope this gives some help with finding an effective and reasonable cost solution.
When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST section and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
Here in the UK, a conversion kit is available from Revotec:
Revotec Automotive Cooling Specialists
Another aftermarket option is manufactured by Kenlowe and available from SC Parts in the UK:
Kenlowe fan kits for Jaguar and Daimler - SC Parts - Kenlowe fan kits for Jaguar and Daimler
In the US, the Cool Cat Corp fan gets good recommendations:
CoolCat Express Corp.: Cooling System
I hope this gives some help with finding an effective and reasonable cost solution.
When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST section and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
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Dad's Jag (07-25-2013)
#3
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Thank you for all of the information Graham.
I conveyed your response to my dad and he said he has left many messages in the past to Cool Cat with no reply. I'll try the e-mail from the link you provided and see if that works. If not, maybe he can try the UK options.
Thank you again.
I conveyed your response to my dad and he said he has left many messages in the past to Cool Cat with no reply. I'll try the e-mail from the link you provided and see if that works. If not, maybe he can try the UK options.
Thank you again.
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I restored a 64 FHC some years back. Between the little grill opening and the temperature in SoCal I gave some attention to this issue. First thing, how old is the readiator? Hard to believe it's original but... If old, coolant may be flowing through it but there may be blockage. You need all the flow you can get.
What I did:
Had a radiator shop make me a same size and look replacement with extra rows.
Made very sure that ALL the air is channeled through the radiator by closing all the gaps around it. Air will seek the path of least resistance and that's not through the radiator. It is surprising how much can get around it.
Threw away the two blade. Got the biggest electrical add on I could to attach directly to the radiator. Besides the thermal switch add a manual one.
Make sure you are not running lean. A rich mixture has a cooling effect on cylinder heads.
Even so, still had to watch the temp in traffic.
What I did:
Had a radiator shop make me a same size and look replacement with extra rows.
Made very sure that ALL the air is channeled through the radiator by closing all the gaps around it. Air will seek the path of least resistance and that's not through the radiator. It is surprising how much can get around it.
Threw away the two blade. Got the biggest electrical add on I could to attach directly to the radiator. Besides the thermal switch add a manual one.
Make sure you are not running lean. A rich mixture has a cooling effect on cylinder heads.
Even so, still had to watch the temp in traffic.
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had an overheating problem with my '68 2+2. I fitted a CoolCat aluminum radiator and the problem has gone. I drove through California's central valley in temperatures of 100+ recently and even that did not cause overheating. I recommend this solution, its easy to fit and solves the problem.
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here is the direct link to the Cool Cat fan unit. Get it! CoolCat Express Corp.: CoolCat Fan for Series 1 E-Types
Another option is to rebuild the water pump with an empellor with more vanes.
I also had my radiator rebuilt with more rows for far less than buying a new one, and it looks original.
Good luck!
Another option is to rebuild the water pump with an empellor with more vanes.
I also had my radiator rebuilt with more rows for far less than buying a new one, and it looks original.
Good luck!
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I own a '66 E-Type 2+2 with 112,000 miles. It too suffered from overheating problems, so I decided to do something about it. I removed the radiator and had it thoroughly cleaned, replaced the old surge tank with an aluminum one, replaced the square fan motor with a new round model, but I think the best change was to replace the 12" original ruler blade for a fan blade with a ten bladed black plastic. Cheap and effective solution. I never understood why the English would use such a poorly designed fan blade that would not cool anything. I would do theses changes first, then move to an aluminum radiator later. Good Luck!
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#8
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Hi
I have owned and operated a 1964 3.8 OTS for over 3 decades with that pasty little 2 blade fan without incident. As I went about set this car right I did the following which can't help but sort you. I'm in America, in Florida and it gets bloody Hot here, I mean Africa hot !!!
First examine the header tank, the original are designed to flow the coolant in just the right way. So many have been replaced by non standard ones that don't have the correct flow in them. Now available in Brass and of other metals less likely to pinhole and need replacement.
The radiator was originally Aluminum and somewhat fragile, thru the years these have been replaced with a less correct version, and suffer with lower efficiency. You current rad is most likely quite plugged, take it to a rad shop and have it rodded out or a new core or new Rad. Most likely this is were your trouble is not the thermostat.
The thermostat can be troublesome so it's a cheap thing to try. Do it all and have piece of mind rather than an engine rebuild.
Do the hoses, not like these modern Jaguar, they easy to see and change out. Don't forget the heater core and shut valve. Find and fix all of it.
Job Done ! That Man
You should be able to sit outside the Apothecary ticking over and see no more the 70 C on the hottest day in England.
Ps there is a vacant switch on the center console, run wiring to the fan and a ground thru a fuse block as a back up to start the fan should the otter switch fail. That big 10 blade fan may just try to suck your battery back thru the wires at idle with all that draw...
Hope you sort you problems...
Cheers Robert
PS
Almost forgot, 2 items very important on early E-types, There was a block of foam that sits on top of the radiator that forms a seal with the bottom of the bonnet when closed. Most of these are long gone. It forces the airflow thru the radiator instead of over top of it. Big helps in cooling problems. Second is sometimes and for some unknown reason owners remove the lower panel inside the bonnet between the lip and the bottom of the radiator. This insures clean laminar flow of air to the radiator. Again big Boo-Boo if not there.
I have owned and operated a 1964 3.8 OTS for over 3 decades with that pasty little 2 blade fan without incident. As I went about set this car right I did the following which can't help but sort you. I'm in America, in Florida and it gets bloody Hot here, I mean Africa hot !!!
First examine the header tank, the original are designed to flow the coolant in just the right way. So many have been replaced by non standard ones that don't have the correct flow in them. Now available in Brass and of other metals less likely to pinhole and need replacement.
The radiator was originally Aluminum and somewhat fragile, thru the years these have been replaced with a less correct version, and suffer with lower efficiency. You current rad is most likely quite plugged, take it to a rad shop and have it rodded out or a new core or new Rad. Most likely this is were your trouble is not the thermostat.
The thermostat can be troublesome so it's a cheap thing to try. Do it all and have piece of mind rather than an engine rebuild.
Do the hoses, not like these modern Jaguar, they easy to see and change out. Don't forget the heater core and shut valve. Find and fix all of it.
Job Done ! That Man
You should be able to sit outside the Apothecary ticking over and see no more the 70 C on the hottest day in England.
Ps there is a vacant switch on the center console, run wiring to the fan and a ground thru a fuse block as a back up to start the fan should the otter switch fail. That big 10 blade fan may just try to suck your battery back thru the wires at idle with all that draw...
Hope you sort you problems...
Cheers Robert
PS
Almost forgot, 2 items very important on early E-types, There was a block of foam that sits on top of the radiator that forms a seal with the bottom of the bonnet when closed. Most of these are long gone. It forces the airflow thru the radiator instead of over top of it. Big helps in cooling problems. Second is sometimes and for some unknown reason owners remove the lower panel inside the bonnet between the lip and the bottom of the radiator. This insures clean laminar flow of air to the radiator. Again big Boo-Boo if not there.
Last edited by 1stjagjet; 10-09-2013 at 06:56 AM. Reason: Additional Content
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