E-type Series 3 automatic gearbox removal
#1
06-15-2024, 01:48 PM
E-type Series 3 automatic gearbox removal
Hi all,
I recently had my V12 engine and gearbox out for work on both, and having got it all back together it turned out that the rebuilt gearbox still had problems!
The Jaguar Service Manual says to take the whole thing out together, but I really didn’t want to take it all out again. Several places said that it was possible to get the gearbox out without the engine so decided to give it a go. I couldn’t find anywhere on here that covered this but maybe my search missed it. None of the YouTube videos I could find cover the series 3 auto box, so had to make it up as we went along. Here is a brief description of how we did it in case it helps anyone here. There may be other ways, but I can’t see how!
I already had the centre console and tunnel cover, the exhaust and heat shields off and that is all standard stuff as per the manual. We also had the gearbox sump off to diagnose the problem, but obviously you will need to drain the oil if you haven’t already. After disconnecting the driveshaft we supported the rear of the engine with a trolly jack and unbolted the rear gearbox mounting and removed the mounting plate from the big spring mounting. (Take note of the way the spring, rubbers and spacers are assembled as the parts manual isn’t that clear). Then drop the gearbox carefully down. Watch out for the metal pipes that go forward to the cooler in the radiator as they can easily snag on the bodywork ledges around the tunnel and get damaged. Once the gearbox is low enough you can lift the prop shaft and pull the front part of the prop shaft off its splines. It probably helps to remove the big heat shield so you can get to the prop shaft to help ease it off. This now gives room so that you can remove the whole rear section of the gearbox. Don’t try to take just the small back bit off as that will only come off of you remove the huge (38mm?) nut on the output shaft, and that looks very tricky! The whole rear bit only just came out by pulling it back into the prop shaft tunnel, then lifting the front upwards, wriggling it past the shaft and casing by adjusting the height of the box. There was literally only a millimetre of clearance, but it came out. Once you are at this stage it is possible to remove most of the gear sets/bands/clutches to replace seals etc (I left the reconditioner chap to do that as it is way beyond my skill set!) However, once that rear gearbox extension is off it looks like a simple job to take out the gearbox from the bell housing and torque converter.
it doesn’t look like an easy job to get the bell housing off as the bit round the starter motor is wider than the chassis members either side of the tunnel. Fortunately that bit of mine is OK so I don’t need to do it. It probably would be possible as with the gearbox off the bell housing it should be possible to pull the bell housing backwards then twist it sideways to get it out. (If you can get at all the bolts!)
Good luck if you need to do that and maybe someone who has done it could post how they did it here!
Hope the above helps someone avoid having the whole engine/gearbox out.
Rick
I recently had my V12 engine and gearbox out for work on both, and having got it all back together it turned out that the rebuilt gearbox still had problems!
The Jaguar Service Manual says to take the whole thing out together, but I really didn’t want to take it all out again. Several places said that it was possible to get the gearbox out without the engine so decided to give it a go. I couldn’t find anywhere on here that covered this but maybe my search missed it. None of the YouTube videos I could find cover the series 3 auto box, so had to make it up as we went along. Here is a brief description of how we did it in case it helps anyone here. There may be other ways, but I can’t see how!
I already had the centre console and tunnel cover, the exhaust and heat shields off and that is all standard stuff as per the manual. We also had the gearbox sump off to diagnose the problem, but obviously you will need to drain the oil if you haven’t already. After disconnecting the driveshaft we supported the rear of the engine with a trolly jack and unbolted the rear gearbox mounting and removed the mounting plate from the big spring mounting. (Take note of the way the spring, rubbers and spacers are assembled as the parts manual isn’t that clear). Then drop the gearbox carefully down. Watch out for the metal pipes that go forward to the cooler in the radiator as they can easily snag on the bodywork ledges around the tunnel and get damaged. Once the gearbox is low enough you can lift the prop shaft and pull the front part of the prop shaft off its splines. It probably helps to remove the big heat shield so you can get to the prop shaft to help ease it off. This now gives room so that you can remove the whole rear section of the gearbox. Don’t try to take just the small back bit off as that will only come off of you remove the huge (38mm?) nut on the output shaft, and that looks very tricky! The whole rear bit only just came out by pulling it back into the prop shaft tunnel, then lifting the front upwards, wriggling it past the shaft and casing by adjusting the height of the box. There was literally only a millimetre of clearance, but it came out. Once you are at this stage it is possible to remove most of the gear sets/bands/clutches to replace seals etc (I left the reconditioner chap to do that as it is way beyond my skill set!) However, once that rear gearbox extension is off it looks like a simple job to take out the gearbox from the bell housing and torque converter.
it doesn’t look like an easy job to get the bell housing off as the bit round the starter motor is wider than the chassis members either side of the tunnel. Fortunately that bit of mine is OK so I don’t need to do it. It probably would be possible as with the gearbox off the bell housing it should be possible to pull the bell housing backwards then twist it sideways to get it out. (If you can get at all the bolts!)
Good luck if you need to do that and maybe someone who has done it could post how they did it here!
Hope the above helps someone avoid having the whole engine/gearbox out.
Rick
Last edited by Tarapoochy; 06-15-2024 at 02:36 PM.
#2
06-16-2024, 12:12 AM
When I bought my E-Type it had a gearbox problem and it completely failed soon after - reverse only. I was told that the engine/gearbox had to come out as one unit which I was not keen on. I went to a auto specialist in Plymouth who was able to do it with the engine in - said it was a little difficult but was able to take the box out and put a new one in, in a day.
#3
06-17-2024, 10:16 AM
Hi all,
I recently had my V12 engine and gearbox out for work on both, and having got it all back together it turned out that the rebuilt gearbox still had problems!
The Jaguar Service Manual says to take the whole thing out together, but I really didn’t want to take it all out again. Several places said that it was possible to get the gearbox out without the engine so decided to give it a go. I couldn’t find anywhere on here that covered this but maybe my search missed it. None of the YouTube videos I could find cover the series 3 auto box, so had to make it up as we went along. Here is a brief description of how we did it in case it helps anyone here. There may be other ways, but I can’t see how!
I already had the centre console and tunnel cover, the exhaust and heat shields off and that is all standard stuff as per the manual. We also had the gearbox sump off to diagnose the problem, but obviously you will need to drain the oil if you haven’t already. After disconnecting the driveshaft we supported the rear of the engine with a trolly jack and unbolted the rear gearbox mounting and removed the mounting plate from the big spring mounting. (Take note of the way the spring, rubbers and spacers are assembled as the parts manual isn’t that clear). Then drop the gearbox carefully down. Watch out for the metal pipes that go forward to the cooler in the radiator as they can easily snag on the bodywork ledges around the tunnel and get damaged. Once the gearbox is low enough you can lift the prop shaft and pull the front part of the prop shaft off its splines. It probably helps to remove the big heat shield so you can get to the prop shaft to help ease it off. This now gives room so that you can remove the whole rear section of the gearbox. Don’t try to take just the small back bit off as that will only come off of you remove the huge (38mm?) nut on the output shaft, and that looks very tricky! The whole rear bit only just came out by pulling it back into the prop shaft tunnel, then lifting the front upwards, wriggling it past the shaft and casing by adjusting the height of the box. There was literally only a millimetre of clearance, but it came out. Once you are at this stage it is possible to remove most of the gear sets/bands/clutches to replace seals etc (I left the reconditioner chap to do that as it is way beyond my skill set!) However, once that rear gearbox extension is off it looks like a simple job to take out the gearbox from the bell housing and torque converter.
it doesn’t look like an easy job to get the bell housing off as the bit round the starter motor is wider than the chassis members either side of the tunnel. Fortunately that bit of mine is OK so I don’t need to do it. It probably would be possible as with the gearbox off the bell housing it should be possible to pull the bell housing backwards then twist it sideways to get it out. (If you can get at all the bolts!)
Good luck if you need to do that and maybe someone who has done it could post how they did it here!
Hope the above helps someone avoid having the whole engine/gearbox out.
Rick
I recently had my V12 engine and gearbox out for work on both, and having got it all back together it turned out that the rebuilt gearbox still had problems!
The Jaguar Service Manual says to take the whole thing out together, but I really didn’t want to take it all out again. Several places said that it was possible to get the gearbox out without the engine so decided to give it a go. I couldn’t find anywhere on here that covered this but maybe my search missed it. None of the YouTube videos I could find cover the series 3 auto box, so had to make it up as we went along. Here is a brief description of how we did it in case it helps anyone here. There may be other ways, but I can’t see how!
I already had the centre console and tunnel cover, the exhaust and heat shields off and that is all standard stuff as per the manual. We also had the gearbox sump off to diagnose the problem, but obviously you will need to drain the oil if you haven’t already. After disconnecting the driveshaft we supported the rear of the engine with a trolly jack and unbolted the rear gearbox mounting and removed the mounting plate from the big spring mounting. (Take note of the way the spring, rubbers and spacers are assembled as the parts manual isn’t that clear). Then drop the gearbox carefully down. Watch out for the metal pipes that go forward to the cooler in the radiator as they can easily snag on the bodywork ledges around the tunnel and get damaged. Once the gearbox is low enough you can lift the prop shaft and pull the front part of the prop shaft off its splines. It probably helps to remove the big heat shield so you can get to the prop shaft to help ease it off. This now gives room so that you can remove the whole rear section of the gearbox. Don’t try to take just the small back bit off as that will only come off of you remove the huge (38mm?) nut on the output shaft, and that looks very tricky! The whole rear bit only just came out by pulling it back into the prop shaft tunnel, then lifting the front upwards, wriggling it past the shaft and casing by adjusting the height of the box. There was literally only a millimetre of clearance, but it came out. Once you are at this stage it is possible to remove most of the gear sets/bands/clutches to replace seals etc (I left the reconditioner chap to do that as it is way beyond my skill set!) However, once that rear gearbox extension is off it looks like a simple job to take out the gearbox from the bell housing and torque converter.
it doesn’t look like an easy job to get the bell housing off as the bit round the starter motor is wider than the chassis members either side of the tunnel. Fortunately that bit of mine is OK so I don’t need to do it. It probably would be possible as with the gearbox off the bell housing it should be possible to pull the bell housing backwards then twist it sideways to get it out. (If you can get at all the bolts!)
Good luck if you need to do that and maybe someone who has done it could post how they did it here!
Hope the above helps someone avoid having the whole engine/gearbox out.
Rick
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