Hub Carrier Removal
#1
#2
#3
I think Jag902 just wants to take the hub carriers off, not the whole subframe.
It is quite an easy job, provided no Loctite has been used on the drive shaft splines in the hub. With the car supported at the rear with the road wheels off and suspension hanging down, you loosen off the nut on the end of the drive shaft and remove it. You can do this before you jack the car up if its a bit tight. By pulling at the top of the hub carrier, you should then be able to pull it off the drive shaft, but if Loctite has been used you may have to use a puller. Once the hub carrier is hanging free on the lower trunnion, you can undo this, push the trunnion shaft out and off comes the hub carrier with hub, ready for whatever you want to do which will probably be hub bearings and maybe the trunnion bearings. Don't lose the bronze spacer on the driver shaft, and note where it is located when you remove the hub carrier. Of course, once the hub carrier is off, you can remove the drive shaft with its UJs and replace these too.
I did all the above sometime in 1990 on an XJ6 Series 3.
It is quite an easy job, provided no Loctite has been used on the drive shaft splines in the hub. With the car supported at the rear with the road wheels off and suspension hanging down, you loosen off the nut on the end of the drive shaft and remove it. You can do this before you jack the car up if its a bit tight. By pulling at the top of the hub carrier, you should then be able to pull it off the drive shaft, but if Loctite has been used you may have to use a puller. Once the hub carrier is hanging free on the lower trunnion, you can undo this, push the trunnion shaft out and off comes the hub carrier with hub, ready for whatever you want to do which will probably be hub bearings and maybe the trunnion bearings. Don't lose the bronze spacer on the driver shaft, and note where it is located when you remove the hub carrier. Of course, once the hub carrier is off, you can remove the drive shaft with its UJs and replace these too.
I did all the above sometime in 1990 on an XJ6 Series 3.
#5
Hello Fraser Mitchell you are right about trying to remove the rear hub to gain access to the u-joints for inspection, reading in the manual that a special puller was required, is there a bolt in the center of the hub on the axel. I current do not have the car in front of me I'm waiting to have the car in my possession, also what is the torque requirement on the bolt for the axel, I'm sure that there is a torque setting for bearing per-load. the issue being that I'm thinking that upon start position I feel something is loose in the rear end of the car and something is hitting the floor upon take off possibly has broken mounts or worn bushings, secondly the clutch is bad in this car, can the engine be removed with out removing the manual transmission it might save some time. in getting back to the rear end issue I've currently purchased all new shocks and springs and upon inspection well evaluate the mounts and bushings
and possible have to remove the whole rear end
Thank you very much and maybe you can have a better idea of the disassembly and assembly of these units
Jag902
and possible have to remove the whole rear end
Thank you very much and maybe you can have a better idea of the disassembly and assembly of these units
Jag902
#7
Provided no Loctite has been used on the driveshaft splines, it is quite an easy job taking off the hubs. A puller is only needed if Loctite has been used. The nut on the end of the drive shaft has a fairly high torque setting, but I don't know the exact value. The spacer you'll find when dismantling is used to set the end float on the taper rollers on the hub, and is available in a variety of thicknesses. Actually one normally just replaces it as removed because bearings are made very accurately, it is the variations in machining of the bearing housings in the hub carrier that demands the use of this spacer. So make sure you don't swap one side with the other.
"It's all in the manual", as they say !
"It's all in the manual", as they say !
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#9
I did read in the Workshop Manual that Jaguar had applied Loctite to the splines to cure a clicking noise when the car was moving slowly over rough ground.
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