Hi all,
I’m still trying to get a handle on my car (finally on the road and learning more about the running conditions). I have a 1969 etype 4.2L fhc. I remember my dad always aiming for an idle of about 750 rpm. Right now I’m at about 1100 rpm after driving for 15 minutes or so. I also have some backfire when cold at startup but don’t notice any while driving. I was going to try to adjust my fuel mixture a little but in doing some searching, found I’ll need a specialized tool to do so, so I figured I’d ask here first and see what the masses say.

It was driven for the first time in 4 years last fall but only for about 5-6 miles. This spring I’ve finally got it out and have had about 20 total miles in the last two days (baby steps, still testing all the work I’ve done)

is there an easy place to come by the tool I need to adjust the mixture?

thanks for all the help!

 

Hi, I assume you have Strombergs as opposed to SUs?
As a Brit with a '69 4.2 on SUs, I'm not an expert on Stroms, HOWEVER:

First, check your ignition. No point fiddling with carbs if ignition timing is wrong. So check timing, check distributor (according to what you have), leads etc. If car has not been used for a while, it's sometimes better to change all the leads, rotor arm etc. Doesn't cost much and eliminates many potential problems.

Carburettors - don't know why you need a special tool. You have 3 adjustments. A fast idle screw, a throttle stop screw, and a jet adjusting screw as far as I know. No special tools needed for these. Check that the choke is going on and off fully, then adjust as per the handbook - if you don't have a handbook, you need to get one!

I aim for an idle speed of about 800, my engine likes that. Sticky and jamming cables can often result in revs idling high - if manually pushing the throttle closed at the carbs reduces idle speed, you know that's an issue. Spray everything up.
Good luck!

 

I have a 1966 e type with the HD8 SU carbs and set the mixture setting screws 2&1/2 turns down from flush with the top of the jet. The only other carb tool i use in a Unisync gauge that I use to sync air flow in to the carbs. I think I bought the gauge from Welsh Enterprises in Ohio more than 20 years ago. I like the idle at 800 RPM like didbyanco, this is my 2 cents worth. It's great to finally get an e type running after many years, enjoy the pure joy of a perfect cruising machine that feels like part of the road.

 

@dibbyandco
I realized the special tool I referenced is only used on CD3 carburetors and mine are stromberg CD-2 so I shouldn't need to worry about that. I am going to check my timing first like you suggested, once I find a timing light (I either have one at my parents' house or my neighbor is letting me borrow theirs if they can find it). Aiming for 10 BTDC right?

Thanks for all the advice on the rest of the adjustments as well. I'll be making sure everything is moving freely and adjusted per manual!

@piper 888 Thanks for your input as well! It has been very exciting getting it back on the road and driving well even if it is idling a little high!

 

My 66 E type (pre emissions) timing is set to 8 degrees beforeTDC

 

As I understand it, UK spec cars are set to 10 btdc, whereas US emission-controlled cars are set at 8.

 

Ok, dumb question. But where is the timing indicator on the car? I’m struggling to find it

 

The timing indicator is located on the front lower oil pan next to the crankshaft damper pully

 

IF YOU HAVE CD2 STROMBERGS I THINK IT IS LIKE MY 1974 CD2 STROMBERGS. MY STROMBERGS HAVE TEMPERATURE COMPENSATORS. IF WORKING PROPERLY THEY ALLOW AIR TO BYPASS THE THROTTLE BODIES WHEN THE ENGINE WARMS UP. THEREFORE THE IDLE NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED WHEN WARM. ALSO YOUR CHOKE SETTING HAS THREE NOTCHES. THE FIRST IS FAST IDLE, THE SECOND IS HALF CHOKE AND THE THIRD IS FULL CHOKE. MY JAG IS THE ONLY CAR I HAVE THAT REQUIRES THE CHOKE LEVEL AT LEAST AT FAST IDLE UNTIL IT WARMS UP.

YOU WILL NEED TO REBUILD YOUR CARBS. THERE IS ALSO A BY PASS VALVE ON THE CHOKE THAT HAS A DIAPHRAGM THAT GETS BRITTLE AND LEAKS. THIS WILL EFFECT YOUR IDLE AND FUEL CONSUMPTION.

Most of all check your vacuum lines. They may look good but still leak. There is one hidden line under the carb nearest the firewall that has a rubber elbow that is always leaking. At least it was on my 1974.