Newbie to XKE
#1
Newbie to XKE
Afternoon all... I’m an owner of 2016 F-Type base coupe, advice and help take from that thread. I’ve always had interest in the XKE and started searching again. Recently found a 1970 SII FHC that underwent a complete restoration (all receipts available) in 1990 and hasn't been driven much since to show undue wear. The body and interior pics are immaculate. Engine looks straight, clean. Priced in the low 60’s. Reservations? Thoughts? Cautions? Thank you for any advice.
#2
Hi Smonop,
I would find someone local who knows E-type to inspect it for you. Is there a JCNA club close by that could recommend someone to inspect?
Here is a link to the JCNA Clubs
https://www.jcna.com/affiliate-club-list
Hagerty's average value for a series II 2 seat coupe is about $50K
A good book to learn about E-types is - E-type End Of An Era by Chris Harvey
I hope this helps,
I would find someone local who knows E-type to inspect it for you. Is there a JCNA club close by that could recommend someone to inspect?
Here is a link to the JCNA Clubs
https://www.jcna.com/affiliate-club-list
Hagerty's average value for a series II 2 seat coupe is about $50K
A good book to learn about E-types is - E-type End Of An Era by Chris Harvey
I hope this helps,
#3
Some things to look for.
Hi Smonop,
E-Types are great cars, but as with just about any car of this vintage, check for rust and bad body work covered up with bondo. Body work can get very expensive.
A car restored in the 90s but seldom driven since, should still look pretty good. Electrical should be neat and tidy. Same thing with the engine compartment. There should not be any unusual noises coming from the engine and the interior should reflect a car that is seldom driven. All lights should work properly. A total restoration should have included a new clutch, and the car should drive smoothly. Cars that sit a lot and not driven, suffer from deterioration of the rubber parts. Look for leaky clutch and brakes system. Rear leaky brakes are a real pain to service. Don't know if you know this but a bad clutch requires engine removal to access the clutch. This is expensive if you pay someone to do it, and really involved if you are going to do it your self.How are the rubber seals.
If the car is really in good condition the price seems fair. Is the car a numbers matching car? Does it have a certificate authenticating the car?
Good luck. I hope this is the car of your dreams.
Bill.
E-Types are great cars, but as with just about any car of this vintage, check for rust and bad body work covered up with bondo. Body work can get very expensive.
A car restored in the 90s but seldom driven since, should still look pretty good. Electrical should be neat and tidy. Same thing with the engine compartment. There should not be any unusual noises coming from the engine and the interior should reflect a car that is seldom driven. All lights should work properly. A total restoration should have included a new clutch, and the car should drive smoothly. Cars that sit a lot and not driven, suffer from deterioration of the rubber parts. Look for leaky clutch and brakes system. Rear leaky brakes are a real pain to service. Don't know if you know this but a bad clutch requires engine removal to access the clutch. This is expensive if you pay someone to do it, and really involved if you are going to do it your self.How are the rubber seals.
If the car is really in good condition the price seems fair. Is the car a numbers matching car? Does it have a certificate authenticating the car?
Good luck. I hope this is the car of your dreams.
Bill.
#4
There is a lot of body lead in the shells, used to correct profiles and cover welded joints, so if your magnet doesn't grip in certain locations, it's not necessarily filler covering bad rust holes. This applies to the upper body work, there's no lead lower down. However if there are photos of the restoration, just check these out carefully. According to Paul Skilleter's book on Jaguar sports cars, Jaguar made the body shells using outer panels from Abbey Panels, and internal pressings from Pressed Steel Fisher. The production volumes of the E-type were too small for Jaguar to afford to have the shells made externally like the Mark 2 and Mark 10 cars.
#5
#7
Wow, that is great information and detail. I have restoration photos and ran them by a body shop guy who pointed out the areas of bondo vs primer. As Bill recommended above, I’m going to look at the receipts and then the underside photos when I get them (I have everything but complete underside). Thank you.
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#9
As I continue to investigate, and like most of us, am in isolation away from human contact, figured I’d ask a few more questions (asked of the seller of the car I’m looking at too).
Have most owners converted their cars to a modern fuel pump? Electronic ignition? Alternator conversion? (I understand Lucas alternators were failure-prone).
Aluminium radiator and electric fan to ward off overheating?
I know this next question is variable, but how long does an XKE clutch typically last? Seems like it’s a big deal to replace; remove the bonnet, engine, etc.. : /
Thank you!!
Have most owners converted their cars to a modern fuel pump? Electronic ignition? Alternator conversion? (I understand Lucas alternators were failure-prone).
Aluminium radiator and electric fan to ward off overheating?
I know this next question is variable, but how long does an XKE clutch typically last? Seems like it’s a big deal to replace; remove the bonnet, engine, etc.. : /
Thank you!!
#10
Smonop,
I have a 1968 (Series 1.5) FHC that I have owned since 1981 and am in the process of doing a complete restoration. Here are some of the modifications that I had already done to the car to make it more drivable, and some additional modifications that I will do during the restoration. Please, keep in mind that I have kept and will continue to keep all of the original parts that will be replaced by newer, better, safer, more reliable parts in order to make the car safer, reliable, and more fun to drive and enjoy.
Previous modifications:
Replaced the generator with an AC Delco single wire alternator, and replaced the original cooling fans with more efficient and capable Spal fans.
Additional modifications that I am doing during the restoration:
During the engine rebuild, replaced the engine head with an XJ6 head with bigger valves.
Switching from 2 carbs to a tri carb set up from a series 1 4.2L.
Replacing the starter with a new smaller/much lighter high torque starter.
Replacing the front brakes with Series 2 brake calipers and series 3 rotors.
Replacing the 4 speed gear box with a 5 speed gear box.
Reinstalling the original dealer installed AC unit with new rotary compressor.
Replacing the seats with series 2 seats with the headrest.
Replacing the seatbelts with newer 3 point retracting seat belts.
Replacing the original wire wheels with new Tubeless wire wheels. I may opt for the D-Type style disk wheels.
Seriously looking into changing the headlights and brake lights to LEDs.
I may be forgetting something. But remember that I am keeping all the original parts, and all of these modifications/improvements could easily be reversed. The engine head being the most complicated one to reverse.
So, if the car you are looking at has had some of these improvements already done, that would not be a reason to walk away from it. It would be nice if the original parts came with the car even if they are not in the best of conditions. My wife and I mean to drive the car on a regular basis when the restoration is done. The improvements are meant to make the car more user friendly and safer.
I hope this gives you an idea of things that can be modified/improved without destroying the essence of the car.
Bill.
I have a 1968 (Series 1.5) FHC that I have owned since 1981 and am in the process of doing a complete restoration. Here are some of the modifications that I had already done to the car to make it more drivable, and some additional modifications that I will do during the restoration. Please, keep in mind that I have kept and will continue to keep all of the original parts that will be replaced by newer, better, safer, more reliable parts in order to make the car safer, reliable, and more fun to drive and enjoy.
Previous modifications:
Replaced the generator with an AC Delco single wire alternator, and replaced the original cooling fans with more efficient and capable Spal fans.
Additional modifications that I am doing during the restoration:
During the engine rebuild, replaced the engine head with an XJ6 head with bigger valves.
Switching from 2 carbs to a tri carb set up from a series 1 4.2L.
Replacing the starter with a new smaller/much lighter high torque starter.
Replacing the front brakes with Series 2 brake calipers and series 3 rotors.
Replacing the 4 speed gear box with a 5 speed gear box.
Reinstalling the original dealer installed AC unit with new rotary compressor.
Replacing the seats with series 2 seats with the headrest.
Replacing the seatbelts with newer 3 point retracting seat belts.
Replacing the original wire wheels with new Tubeless wire wheels. I may opt for the D-Type style disk wheels.
Seriously looking into changing the headlights and brake lights to LEDs.
I may be forgetting something. But remember that I am keeping all the original parts, and all of these modifications/improvements could easily be reversed. The engine head being the most complicated one to reverse.
So, if the car you are looking at has had some of these improvements already done, that would not be a reason to walk away from it. It would be nice if the original parts came with the car even if they are not in the best of conditions. My wife and I mean to drive the car on a regular basis when the restoration is done. The improvements are meant to make the car more user friendly and safer.
I hope this gives you an idea of things that can be modified/improved without destroying the essence of the car.
Bill.
#11
#12
Yes, it is nice to be able to say that we have had this car for 39 years, but then again we tend to keep cars for a long time. This will be the second restoration I do on the car. When we first bought it I did a driving restoration as money and time allowed. We drove the car a lot. My wife drove it to college while studying to become an RN. Then I drove to work for three years as my daily driver 45 miles each way. We drove it 50K miles between 1981 and 1993 (Most mileage between 81 and 88) when we gave it a rest and drove it occasionally.
Spyder 550s are cool cars that are fun to drive. I can certainly understand why you would keep it that long. Any other Porsches in the family. I love the Jag, but I have a weakness for Porsches as well. Presently there are a 1974 914-6, 1988 Carrera, and 2007 Cayman S keeping the Jag company.
Keep us posted on your quest for your E-Type.
Stay safe and keep well.
Spyder 550s are cool cars that are fun to drive. I can certainly understand why you would keep it that long. Any other Porsches in the family. I love the Jag, but I have a weakness for Porsches as well. Presently there are a 1974 914-6, 1988 Carrera, and 2007 Cayman S keeping the Jag company.
Keep us posted on your quest for your E-Type.
Stay safe and keep well.
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Smonop (04-04-2020)
#13
Daytona,
It’s nice to hear you and your wife drove the car as a daily driver for a while, speaks volumes to usability. My goal would be as a weekend and otherwise nice day driver. Regarding the 550, like you, I had a great deal of work done over the time owned, not for restoration, but to create as accurate a reproduction as was possible (fabricated aluminum fender wells, front gas tank section, firewall. Fabricated and installed horns & shift gate, 16 x 3.5 rims + bias-ply tires, Porsche type IV engine built from scratch, etc). Good guy in WA state is now the proud owner. 😊
If/when I purchase an XKE I would likely sell my 2016 F-Type which is a weekend driver and maybe my Nissan Figaro (on the fence on that, I may choose to use it as my daily driver).
As I learn more about the current car I’m investigating I’ll keep the forum posted and am sure, ask more questions! Thanks to all!
It’s nice to hear you and your wife drove the car as a daily driver for a while, speaks volumes to usability. My goal would be as a weekend and otherwise nice day driver. Regarding the 550, like you, I had a great deal of work done over the time owned, not for restoration, but to create as accurate a reproduction as was possible (fabricated aluminum fender wells, front gas tank section, firewall. Fabricated and installed horns & shift gate, 16 x 3.5 rims + bias-ply tires, Porsche type IV engine built from scratch, etc). Good guy in WA state is now the proud owner. 😊
If/when I purchase an XKE I would likely sell my 2016 F-Type which is a weekend driver and maybe my Nissan Figaro (on the fence on that, I may choose to use it as my daily driver).
As I learn more about the current car I’m investigating I’ll keep the forum posted and am sure, ask more questions! Thanks to all!
Last edited by Smonop; 04-05-2020 at 03:30 PM.
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