After a couple of years of bad quality control for points/ condenser on my generally reliable E, I opted to give Pertronix a try. My shop assured me that the Pertronix were trouble free and whatever bad I had heard about them was in the past. This was 5 years ago. So true to his promise to not have an automotive breakdown in a bad place. Mr. E conked out on me a mere 4 miles from home and in town, not on some highway. Rudimentary diagnostics: checking for spark, (none at any plug), checking for fuel, yes pump working, makes me think the pertronix died. No apparent damage to inside of cap,, rotor has a little burned spot on the edge of its blade,, and the pertronix module doesn't look fried,, but it does have a curious whitish 'stain' on it, almost like a dried salt stain.. I want to check voltage to the coil tomorrow. Have appt at shop set up. Have read the positive comments on the 123 distributor and am leaning in that direction. Will pair it with the recommended Bosch Red coil. I will have to do up different wires, as the ones I have now are the screw-on to the distributor type. The existing distributor in the car is, I believe, original and so, 52 years old. Anything else I should consider?

 

I've installed the 123 Bluetooth version of the distributor on my 1969 E-Type and I'm thoroughly enjoying it. Installation was a breeze (use a new cork gasket) and setting the initial isn't difficult, but it took a few tries to get an advance curve set that the car seems to like. Initially, I installed the preset advance curve model (set to advance curve 2) and once I got the timing light out and the car dialed it, it was perfect. I'm just a gadget nut and decided I wanted the Bluetooth version so I swapped it out. Installation was just as easy and now I can watch the RPM's on my iPhone while I adjust the degrees of advance.

Personally, I don't think you can go wrong with any of the 123 Ignition distributors. As for the coil, I'm not sure I'd know the difference between the Pertronics coil I'm running and the Bosch you are mentioning.

 

OK, good to know all that. At this point I'm just going to do the 'base' version of the Jaguar XK unit. I am probably going to go with the resin-filled Bosch coil. I'm not sure if the Pertronix flamethrower that was installed in 2016 with the module is now compromised as well, so why take the chance? If I go with all the parts that are supposed to play nicely together, IMO it removes some of the 'well, you didn't......" Will post updates. Appt is for 8/17/21. Photo shows inside of current distributor, the module and the curious white 'stain' on it.

 

Decided to go with the 123 system, which included the Bosch red coil, and plug wires. It was installed and initial test drive done (returned home from shop) and it sounds and runs great. Taking a short/medium test drive later this afternoon, hopefully to restore my confidence in this car. Planning to take it to the VSCDA races at Road America in a couple of weeks, celebrating 60 years of E-type. At first glance, distributor doesn't look much different, but will take some photos and post them. I chose the base "switchable' unit, just one less electronic thing to keep track of.

 

Hello, I'm usually over in the MK II forum, but I can answer some questions here.
All that white build-up and some-what burnt rotor is indicative of a very hot spark flash.
This probably caused the Pertronix unit to burn out _ too much current flow in the primary windings _ not enough resistance of 1.5 ohms or less, and too much current flow through the Pertronix unit.
Check the resistance on the primary windings between the + and - terminals of the coil, making sure there is nothing connected to either side of the terminals when measuring.
The new Pertronix units are supposed to be shielded from very hot spark flash, so that should not be a problem, contacting Pertronix with that photo may also yield some answers.

I did a lot of reading on the 123 Ignition system, I plan on putting it in one of my cars eventually.
The unit is very sensitive to the correct coil, the instructions on their web site must followed.
The spark plug wires must be home all the way with in the boot and on the centre electrode of the coil.
If the spark is forced to jump any other place other then the spark plug, it will burn the unit out.
With out checking, I think they call for resistor wires, can't remember if resistor plugs should be used.

The advance curve on the 123 distributor is taken from crank shaft degrees, not distributor degrees, so if maximum advance in the manual says 32 (what ever it is I don't know) degrees for the distributor, then that's 16 degrees on the crank and that's what's used plotting the advance curve.
All this may be known already, but for someone reading this the first time, it may be useful.

 

Completely agree with what Jeff has to say. I have been using Pertronix with a 1.5 ohm coil for a few years now with good results. The original choice between it and the 123 was backup. I carry a spare rotor, condenser, cap and points set and, along with a fuel pump, feel much more confident when on long journeys. They all fit in my tool kit.

 

Hello Bill
Are you using a Ballast resistor with your 1.5 ohm coil, just curios ?
That would be out of the norm that only a 1.5 coil would be used on its own with out a ballast resistor.
Maybe they changed something at Pertronix.?
A 3 ohm coil with out a ballast resistor would be the norm, but if it's working...

EDIT:
I guess it depends upon which coil one uses, according to their instruction sheet.

40011.pdf (shopify.com)

 

Thank you so much for the great info on what may have happened to the Pertronix. The 123 system has been installed, and I ordered the Bosch coil and 'matching' plug wires so that all would play nicely. I will make sure to check that the plug boots are all the way on as part of my 'walkaround' before taking the car out ( along with oil, coolant and carb oil levels)

 

There is a video somewhere where the guys 123 ignition unit burned out.
What happened is the boot on the coil with the high tension lead coming out of it, slipped off.
The boot was so tight is pulled itself off taking the wire with it, and the big gap that was created where the spark had to jump, caused the unit to burn out.

Here it is:

 

Valerie, I installed a std 123 distributor on my 69 FHC with the 123 wires around 4 years ago and have never been happier with the car. I'm using the 0 curve and love it. I'm also using a std lucas coil from SNG.

Andy

 

Andy,

With your 69 FHC, I suspect your original distributor does not have vacuum advance. Are you using the 123 system without vacuum advance.

RyeJag

 

Jeff, read your response and measured my coil. Sure enough, it is 3 ohms. There is no ballast. My fading memory is a continuing surprise.