Hi all..slight problem. Having issues with my fuel pump on my 69 e-type roadster and I cant get the trunk open. The cable seems OK but the actual latch doesn't work. How can I get at it? Is it a major issue? Your help please?

 

That's a tough one....
Can you feel tension on the release handle, when you pull on it? If so, then it is still connected to the latch....
You may have to risk some slight paint damage, but try having someone hold the release, while you first push down on the center lip of the lid...Then quickly release the lid....
If that doesn't work, use a nylon wedge , to GENTLY lever up the lid, while someone holds the release handle...It may be that the catch is working, but the rubber seal is holding it closed....

 

Not sure if it applies to the Series 2, but for the Series 1 "back in the day" the dealers would drill a small hole just above the rear license plate at the center, through which a small screwdriver or hex key could be pushed to directly force the latch forward - that releases the boot lid. Might be useful to look very carefully to see if there is a hole (or a small plastic cap) at that location.

 

Soooooo......????

 

Found a hole above the plate. Trying now to get a screwdriver up there...will let you know..many thanks!

 

I've found that the long end of an appropriately sized hex/allen wrench does the job.

 

Please post results....Helps to know how you did it for future reference.
Thanks
Edward

 

I have a 1973 E-Type Roadster with the same problem. boot lid stuck closed. I found a hole the size of my pinky behind the plate, but obviously can't see a thing in there. I have tried a series of hex keys, but what am I trying to do? Push something in, slide something sideways (left or right) or trying to pull on something....Any thoughts?

 

Hold the hex key horizontal, right on the center line of the car, and push forward. At least on the Series 1 E-Type, that pushes the latch forward and the boot lid pops upwards. (If I am remembering correctly from 20+ years ago.)

 

Thanks for the advise....If I get this to work, I will send another message.
Here is hoping.

Bart

 

I was able to get the latch released via the hole. Not sure why this worked but it did..I want to thank you for your quick response. Now I have to figure out how to readjust/realign the latching mechanism to keep it from happening again.

Again thank you...I really appreciate it.

Bart

 

Glad it worked on yours..tried messing with my series 2 and again no luck. Let me try and understand. I get a normal L shaped hexwrench..insert the short end and push forward? A little lost..help please?

 

Just a guess - maybe the short end is too short and is not making contact with the latch? Perhaps you have already tried the long end? My car is still off for its bare metal respray, but when it gets back in a couple of weeks, I'll do a photo essay on this topic (unless someone else beats me to it). This seems to be a recurring issue even today (which is why a lot of the dealer shops in the '60s did the make-a-hole fix).

 

Insert the long end in horizontally. Pull the trunk release then try shutting the passenger door hard. I found the seal around the trunk sticks and the trunk springs are no longer strong enough to pop the trunk. If this doesn't work use a plastic lever to try and pry the lid loose
Good luck

 

Hi all, gave it my best. I took the license plate light assembly and the plate off and found that the hole I was inserting the tolls in went nowhere. There is a hole going horizontally but inserting various tools didn't accomplish anything. Some have said that there may be access behind the license plate bracket which is a solid metal piece about 6x4 inches, riveted onto the body. I don't want to take that off unless absolutely necessary. Would like some opinions please?

 

At least on the Series 1, the dealer-fabricated access hole is JUST ABOVE the top edge of the license plate. Behind the license plate bracket is way too low to access the latch mechanism. This access hole was not a standard feature of the car from the factory but was "added" post-delivery. Sounds like your car does not have this "feature", in which case you will have to do what the dealer's mechanic did: drill the hole. My car is not yet back from the restoration shop in a neighboring state, so I can't give the specs for the hole.

 

Before drilling, did you try prying gently, while someone pulls on the cable?
Edward

 

Can't believe it..my son came by to work on his 600 horse BMW. As being one like many of you, I rarely ask for help for what ever reason. This day was different. I helped him try and find a coolant leak, then asked him his thoughts on my issue. He started messing with the latch inside the car and I stuck my hand up in the area where the license plate light was and started yanking on various "things" and we heard a CLICK and it opened...for the first time in a year..man, long wait. Like the series 3 guy, no idea what happened. The problem, one hexscrew had come out of the latch and the screw that holds down the rubber part of the cable so just the inside moves and works the latch was also lose. Only one problem remains...trying to find someone small enough to stick inside the trunk while I try it out! Any volunteers?


Mike, Edward, all else, MANY THANKS FOR YOUR TIME! Next issue, neither blinker works..fuses are fine..your thoughts?

 

To quote a really excited Brit: Good show, old chap!

Now that the boot lid is open, and to avoid confining someone in a rather tight spot, I would suggest practicing the emergency maneuver WITHOUT re-closing the boot lid. After reassembling/replacing all the loose/broken parts, with the boot lid open, have someone pull on the boot opening control inside the passenger compartment while you stand right at the latch - see how the mechanism moves while the cable is actuated. Then insert a tool through the hole above the license plate position, and see how it should force the latch into the open position, and perform the emergency maneuver. (You may have to rotate the latch by hand into the closed position to do this realistically.)

Once you have successfully performed this "simulation" several times, you can then close the boot lid with the confidence that you will always be able to open the boot, even if the cable is missing in action. If you are unable to perform this simulation, then go looking for that little person to stick in the boot.

 

OK - I finally got my car back home so I can show photos of how to open the boot (trunk) lid without use of the release cable. Note that this is all for a Series 1 4.2 OTS, so things may be different for other series or models, but maybe not too much different.

Photo 1 shows the general license plate area without the license plate in position. There should be a fairly large, smoothly finished hole at the upper center of the plate area. This is the factory-provided access to the boot lock and is the path to take if the license plate can be removed.


Photo 2 shows the tools required depending on the path chosen. Either a bleeding big screwdriver to use the factory-provided path, or a small hex wrench to use the owner-provided emergency access route


Photo 3 shows the two access points to the boot latch guts. The small upper hole is the one that a lot of the dealer shops added back in the day. First we assume that the license plate is not present so we can easily use the larger factory-provided access hole.


Photo 4 shows the large screwdriver inserted so that the blade bears against the latching mechanism. First, insert the screwdriver straight in - it will hit the latch lever. Do not push anything at this point. Instead, slide the tip of the screwdriver slightly to the left until it can be pushed forward about at inch. At this point, pivot the tip of the screwdriver to the right, pushing against the latch lever. This maneuver duplicates what the cable would do if it were functional, at which point the boot lid miraculously pops upwards.


Photo 5 shows what is happening inside the car. Note the tip of the screwdriver resting against the latch lever. The rightwards manuever in Photo 4 would move the latch lever to the left in this photo, which you can see is what the cable would do normally. (Yes, I know that a screw is missing.) Note also that on my car there is a large slot cut out in the forward portion of the latch housing to give the screwdriver access to the lever. Without that slot there, this manuever would not be possible.


Now, if you can not remove the license plate, none of the above is possible. In that case you have to rely upon the emergency access hole drilled above the top edge of the license plate. You can see this small, roughly 1/4" diameter hole in Photo 3 (and Photo 6), whose center is about 1-1/8" above the center of the big, factory access hole. This small hole goes through the body work and then through the back housing of the latch unit.

Photo 6 shows how the small hex wrench is used to directly access the latch. Simply push the wrench straight forward - it will impinge upon the latch, force it to rotate and release the boot lock. There is no way to see or photo the guts of this mechanism, so the release of the latch is an invisible miracle.


I always carry that hex wrench in my console box. Happy pokin'!