LED Project - Turn Signals and Tail Lamps
#24
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That Review of LED's was great, I have seen so many on ebay as the OP said. Thanks for that review it helped me alot.
I put super bright LED reverse lights in the X-Type and it helps alot at night since I have darker tints I can actually see the backside of the car and everyone around know that someones backing up. Their Real Bright!
Also did a LED flat white strip for the license plate, since the led bulb replacements started flickering after about 4 months.
Couple Questions though,
I put LED turn signals in the X-Type tails and now the blinkers inside go faster, which I don't mind, actually like it better but will that damage the car in the long run?
Also I tried putting LED brake lights in the tails also, but found out that after I tested with just one side in (One LED), when I press the pedal the LED almost turns from bright red to a dim brownish burnt color. When I put in 1 LED brake on each side, they then go dim brown without even pressing the brake, What causes this? and can I fix it with the resistors?
Thanks for all the help, if anyone wants pics of what I was talking about I'd be glad to snap them.
Thanks for all the info guys, much appreciated.
- Dave
I put super bright LED reverse lights in the X-Type and it helps alot at night since I have darker tints I can actually see the backside of the car and everyone around know that someones backing up. Their Real Bright!
Also did a LED flat white strip for the license plate, since the led bulb replacements started flickering after about 4 months.
Couple Questions though,
I put LED turn signals in the X-Type tails and now the blinkers inside go faster, which I don't mind, actually like it better but will that damage the car in the long run?
Also I tried putting LED brake lights in the tails also, but found out that after I tested with just one side in (One LED), when I press the pedal the LED almost turns from bright red to a dim brownish burnt color. When I put in 1 LED brake on each side, they then go dim brown without even pressing the brake, What causes this? and can I fix it with the resistors?
Thanks for all the help, if anyone wants pics of what I was talking about I'd be glad to snap them.
Thanks for all the info guys, much appreciated.
- Dave
#25
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X-type will also require the resistor to keep the indicator inside the cabin from clicking faster...that's an audible warning to let you know something isn't right. If it doesn't bother you, it won't hurt anything, but i've found it can be annoying, especially for passengers who don't know whats going on.
As for your red-> brown LED bulb, something's not right there either. Post up a link for it, I bet its the wrong voltage, or wrong type of bulb.
Remember the brake/tail light is a dual filament (dual purpose) bulb, one meant to be hot when the indicators are on, and the other fires up when the brake pedal is applied. If the LED is not designed for that purpose, you'll get some weird results.
As for your red-> brown LED bulb, something's not right there either. Post up a link for it, I bet its the wrong voltage, or wrong type of bulb.
Remember the brake/tail light is a dual filament (dual purpose) bulb, one meant to be hot when the indicators are on, and the other fires up when the brake pedal is applied. If the LED is not designed for that purpose, you'll get some weird results.
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cyoungxtype (03-13-2012)
#27
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This image was lost.
![](http://matt.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p519643869-4.jpg)
If you ever get the urge, it really isn't that diffiucult, and i'll be glad to offer assistance. Just need to know which wire is which, and the electrical diagrams on the JTIS CD shows all of that.
I stayed up waaaaay too late last night...just couldn't stop writing. Little tired today at work.![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![](http://matt.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p519643869-4.jpg)
If you ever get the urge, it really isn't that diffiucult, and i'll be glad to offer assistance. Just need to know which wire is which, and the electrical diagrams on the JTIS CD shows all of that.
I stayed up waaaaay too late last night...just couldn't stop writing. Little tired today at work.
![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#28
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workoutman, got your message and let me see if I can help you.
Yes, there needs to be two resistors on the red w/blue stripe (double check your brake bulb's power lead in the 2001 electrical schematic, just to be sure you are loading the right wire). You could do it with one 12 ohm (or larger probably), but because that lead controls not one, but two, 1157 bulbs - one filament each. I was also getting a bulb out code w/o the 2nd one. I doubled what I had on hand, and it worked, but most likely would have also worked on the blue wire alone...since that was my bulb with the most issues (resistance). I think the resistance is measured by the computer on the return ground...but I'm no electrical engineer either.![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Notice, I did not put an LED in the center always on, 'tail' lamp, in which it uses only one of the 2-filament 1157s (the low power one). I only did an LED in the outside bulb, the one that does both the 'tail' lamp duty, and the 'brake' lamp. If you did LEDs in both sockets, you'll also need another resistor somewhere, for a total of around 18 ohms. You could check the resistance using your original halogens, that way you'll be much more accurate on your resistor total, so you only have to use one, and you'll get the maximum light output of the LED while maintaining the minimum amount of resistance to prevent the computer from thinking there's a bulb out...not enough resistance.
Hope that helps ya!
Yes, there needs to be two resistors on the red w/blue stripe (double check your brake bulb's power lead in the 2001 electrical schematic, just to be sure you are loading the right wire). You could do it with one 12 ohm (or larger probably), but because that lead controls not one, but two, 1157 bulbs - one filament each. I was also getting a bulb out code w/o the 2nd one. I doubled what I had on hand, and it worked, but most likely would have also worked on the blue wire alone...since that was my bulb with the most issues (resistance). I think the resistance is measured by the computer on the return ground...but I'm no electrical engineer either.
![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Notice, I did not put an LED in the center always on, 'tail' lamp, in which it uses only one of the 2-filament 1157s (the low power one). I only did an LED in the outside bulb, the one that does both the 'tail' lamp duty, and the 'brake' lamp. If you did LEDs in both sockets, you'll also need another resistor somewhere, for a total of around 18 ohms. You could check the resistance using your original halogens, that way you'll be much more accurate on your resistor total, so you only have to use one, and you'll get the maximum light output of the LED while maintaining the minimum amount of resistance to prevent the computer from thinking there's a bulb out...not enough resistance.
Hope that helps ya!
Last edited by H20boy; 05-18-2011 at 01:07 AM.
#31
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I didnt notice the red Go Texas Tech on your signature, but I caught the green and red letters on the corner of your license plate; on top of the fact that it already has a big ol double t....What year were you initiated, graduated? maybe we know the same people.
Im here cuz Im doing a little preliminary shopping cuz Im thinkin its time to buy a grown up car. Ive had my BMW since it had 8 miles on the odometer and I belong to the bmw forums....so I figured a nice way to decide between a Jag XF and a Infiniti M was to browse their respective boards
Im here cuz Im doing a little preliminary shopping cuz Im thinkin its time to buy a grown up car. Ive had my BMW since it had 8 miles on the odometer and I belong to the bmw forums....so I figured a nice way to decide between a Jag XF and a Infiniti M was to browse their respective boards
#33
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I did a led conversion on my tailights with resistors but I have a small problem.
Both sides have the exact same set up i.e. bulbs and resistors but every morning when I use the driver's side turn suignal I get a bulb out warning in the dash even though all lights are working. The passenger side works flawlessly. The weirdest part is this only happens in the morning, later in the day no bulb out warning is triggered.
If anyone knows the cause of this or a possible solution I'd really appreciate it.
TIA
Both sides have the exact same set up i.e. bulbs and resistors but every morning when I use the driver's side turn suignal I get a bulb out warning in the dash even though all lights are working. The passenger side works flawlessly. The weirdest part is this only happens in the morning, later in the day no bulb out warning is triggered.
If anyone knows the cause of this or a possible solution I'd really appreciate it.
TIA
#34
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Turn signal use and incorrect voltage drop should result in a faster relay clicking sound, not a bulb out warning. something else is wrong. I remember someone saying that the driver side leaper emblem on the front is wired for an actual turn signal repeater (maybe not required in some markets, and needed in others?), and the passenger side isn't; perhaps there is something wrong with that wire loom arrangement that is causing your issue. TBH, i don't even know what model or year car you have based on your post, so I'm assuming its an early (97-99ish) xk8?
#35
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Thanks for the reply.... I drive an 08 XKR and I actually converted to the 2010 tail lights with a kit that has resistors wired in already since pre 2010 use regular bulbs and the post 2010 are all LED.
So I get a "indicator failure" message in the dash with fast signal and clicking whereas outside the car lights flash normal.
It's only the driver side and only in the morning this happens... Drives me nuts!
So I get a "indicator failure" message in the dash with fast signal and clicking whereas outside the car lights flash normal.
It's only the driver side and only in the morning this happens... Drives me nuts!
#37
#38
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H2O;
Wow that was a brilliant and well controled set of experiments not to mention great write up.
Thanks a lot for all of the work, time and money.
I notice that your link to a five led on the end of the bulb has expired.
Do you have a new link or has there been any further progress in LED light bulb applications since your seminal work in 2008 that would be even better now?
Thanks again and cheers,
jj
Wow that was a brilliant and well controled set of experiments not to mention great write up.
Thanks a lot for all of the work, time and money.
I notice that your link to a five led on the end of the bulb has expired.
Do you have a new link or has there been any further progress in LED light bulb applications since your seminal work in 2008 that would be even better now?
Thanks again and cheers,
jj
#39
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thanks jamjax! I've even shipped my box of LED bulbs to several members to let them 'test' the same bulbs I did. Since this project though, I've not replaced any of my bulbs, nor tested any of the newer designs. I bet they've gotten better, surely. If comparing my test bulbs to what is offered now, I'd pay attention to length and type of LED, I like the SMTs much better, it has a wider angle of light output.
Maybe this one as for a current offering? Can't see if the sides are flat diodes or bumpy like my very technical observation above on Pg 1
Definitely the same -> HERE
Good
![](http://matt.zenfolio.com/img/v3/p926402367-4.jpg)
BAD
Maybe this one as for a current offering? Can't see if the sides are flat diodes or bumpy like my very technical observation above on Pg 1
Definitely the same -> HERE
Good
![](http://matt.zenfolio.com/img/v3/p926402367-4.jpg)
BAD
![](http://matt.zenfolio.com/img/v3/p1003004202-4.jpg)
#40