F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards
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1 year with 2015 Type R

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  #21  
Old 09-11-2018 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd
. Over 4000 RPM, the valves are always open regardless of the switch position. The trick to driving around in school zones without the backfire, is to keep the revs under 4000 RPM and never allow the engine to provide any braking.Easier for me to do with the manual transmission, but may prove challenging with the automatic.
Who would have the revs over 4000rpm in a school zone??

In my 2016 R, it’s easy to drive in stealth mode and get no pops and crackles. Dynamic off and D, easy on the throttle.
 
  #22  
Old 09-11-2018 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BOulderGT3
Bingo! They're open all the time. Engine off, at idle, after it's warmed up. Exhaust on or off. Both sides the same.
It looks like they are servo driven. Could this be a consequence of me disconnecting the start/stop battery?
On my car, the valves are always open at idle regardless of switch position. You need a bit of engine speed to create enough vacuum to close the valves. Before you conclude things are broken, have the engine running at 2k rpm when you inspect the valve position.
 
  #23  
Old 09-11-2018 | 10:49 PM
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I hear from many reviewers V6S is the perfect engine and weight for this car. The V8S is too heavy and too loud (which some people like, not myself).

 
  #24  
Old 09-12-2018 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolfy
I hear from many reviewers V6S is the perfect engine and weight for this car. The V8S is too heavy and too loud (which some people like, not myself).
Be aware that the awd V6S is heavier and with more weight in the front than the rwd V8S / V8R.
 
  #25  
Old 09-12-2018 | 01:42 AM
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Absolutely love the f type.... 10 thumbs up!
 
  #26  
Old 09-12-2018 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd

On my car, the valves are always open at idle regardless of switch position. You need a bit of engine speed to create enough vacuum to close the valves. Before you conclude things are broken, have the engine running at 2k rpm when you inspect the valve position.
Looking down the exhaust at the butterfly at 2000RPM will blow your hair back.
There's no doubt mine are open all the time. If I left off the throttle at 1500rpm and coast it pops and crackles.
 
  #27  
Old 09-12-2018 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolfy
I hear from many reviewers V6S is the perfect engine and weight for this car. The V8S is too heavy and too loud (which some people like, not myself).
I think a RWD v6 coupe with 19" wheels is probably the best driving one.
For fun car types I'm not a fan of AWD.
In my case, I wanted a solid high HP V8 before companies stop making them.
The R has that in spades.
 
  #28  
Old 09-12-2018 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Chawumba
As for weight, I'm impressed with how much lighter on its feet the car feels with forged wheels and the Wortec rotors - removing 100 lbs of unsprung weight helps noticeably. The lithium battery and stop start battery delete will save you 50lbs, reducing the overall heft to like 3700 lbs. If we can find a few other porker parts on the car to swap and shave another 100-200lbs, I think we'd have a pretty nimble beast...
I think my modding days are pretty much over. It seems like I spend a lot of money and end up with something not as good as I started with. For example, I had a Porsche Turbo I modded to over 600HP by a really top notch company. That screwed up the ratios in the transmission because now the first two gears were too short and the suspension mods made it great on the track but it trolley tracked on the street. In my experience, factory engineers are damn good at what they do. The exception is probably light exhaust mods and adding safety stuff like roll cages and electrical cut offs. It also tends to screw up downstream resale.

I do understand why modding is a fun hobby though.



 
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  #29  
Old 09-12-2018 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BOulderGT3
Will do. Thanks for the lead.
Do you know how to check the bypass valve? I still don't believe it's ever anything but open.
If I understand correctly you have a V8 RWD coupe, the same model I own.
The active exhaust is in loud mode at startup, then will change to quiet or normal mode a few seconds after starting the engine. It's very noticeable that loud start followed by quietening.

Then when driving in normal exhaust mode it remains quiet with no audible pops and bangs.

It goes loud when the exhaust bypass opens which occurs above 4000rpm in normal mode and throughout the rev range when the active exhaust button is illuminated (selected)
 
  #30  
Old 09-12-2018 | 01:46 PM
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According to the Jag Active Exhaust document (which I've found isn't 100% accurate), the valves are open for "Start & idle < 1100rpm) and closed for 'Fast Idle > 1100rpm" for normal mode. For loud/dynamic, it says the valves are open for both conditions.

However, in my V6S with squeaky exhaust valves, I can hear them flipping open/closed around that engine speed, even in Dynamic. (I don't have switchable active exhaust, just active exhaust.)

Boulder, if you want to PM me your email address, I could email you that document (~1MB), since you couldn't view it from my Dropbox for whatever reason. It's pretty interesting, and would answer some of your questions.
 
  #31  
Old 09-12-2018 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by DJS
According to the Jag Active Exhaust document (which I've found isn't 100% accurate), the valves are open for "Start & idle < 1100rpm) and closed for 'Fast Idle > 1100rpm" for normal mode. For loud/dynamic, it says the valves are open for both conditions.

However, in my V6S with squeaky exhaust valves, I can hear them flipping open/closed around that engine speed, even in Dynamic. (I don't have switchable active exhaust, just active exhaust.)

Boulder, if you want to PM me your email address, I could email you that document (~1MB), since you couldn't view it from my Dropbox for whatever reason. It's pretty interesting, and would answer some of your questions.
Thanks for the extra detail regarding active exhaust, especially your dropbox copy which I was able to download and open.
 
  #32  
Old 09-12-2018 | 02:20 PM
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Note that document is for MY14 (MY13 for you, I think). Somewhere around 2015 or 2016, they deleted the electric vacuum pump, and ran a vacuum line back from the engine instead.
 
  #33  
Old 09-12-2018 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BOulderGT3
I think my modding days are pretty much over. It seems like I spend a lot of money and end up with something not as good as I started with. For example, I had a Porsche Turbo I modded to over 600HP by a really top notch company. That screwed up the ratios in the transmission because now the first two gears were too short and the suspension mods made it great on the track but it trolley tracked on the street. In my experience, factory engineers are damn good at what they do. The exception is probably light exhaust mods and adding safety stuff like roll cages and electrical cut offs. It also tends to screw up downstream resale.

I do understand why modding is a fun hobby though.
Such a fun hobby! But I agree, going light with mods truly is the way to go. I'm keeping it to light suspension modifications, wheels, tires, brakes, and some minor cosmetic stuff. For reference, not long ago, I was crazy enough to wide body my last car -- C63 AMG... I think those days are over.
 
  #34  
Old 09-12-2018 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DJS
According to the Jag Active Exhaust document (which I've found isn't 100% accurate), the valves are open for "Start & idle < 1100rpm) and closed for 'Fast Idle > 1100rpm" for normal mode.l.
That is certainly my experience. I have to rev the engine to some number over 1100 rpm to check the valve operation. Fast idle usually subsides very shortly after startup.
 
  #35  
Old 09-12-2018 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd
That is certainly my experience. I have to rev the engine to some number over 1100 rpm to check the valve operation. Fast idle usually subsides very shortly after startup.
Mine are open 24hrs/7 days a week/365 days yr.
On the other hand, the work they did on my sound system is terrific. I was listening to Khalid tonight and it sounded great.

Doing a 1000 mile road trip this weekend. Great car on the road.
 
  #36  
Old 09-13-2018 | 10:30 AM
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I thought the snap, crackle and pops were a big reason for having the car?
 
  #37  
Old 09-13-2018 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by BOulderGT3
Mine are open 24hrs/7 days a week/365 days yr.
On the other hand, the work they did on my sound system is terrific. I was listening to Khalid tonight and it sounded great.

Doing a 1000 mile road trip this weekend. Great car on the road.
What work did they do on your sound system?
 
  #38  
Old 09-13-2018 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ntbrinkl
I thought the snap, crackle and pops were a big reason for having the car?
The overall sound of the car is indeed part of the F-Type experience, but the crackle and pops in particular, nah...
I personally could do without, let alone the cracks and pops being a big reason I bought a F-Type.
 
  #39  
Old 09-13-2018 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by eeeeek
What work did they do on your sound system?
They replaced the subwoofer and IIRC the amplifier. It's still a little fussy with the source. Spotify on high quality settings is great, everything else is iffy.


 
  #40  
Old 09-13-2018 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by BOulderGT3
They replaced the subwoofer and IIRC the amplifier. It's still a little fussy with the source. Spotify on high quality settings is great, everything else is iffy.
I finally popped in a CD and was amazed at how goof the bass was, compared to normal radio. I put in Beastie Boys "Licensed to Ill" and was floored at how much better it was. I think it's pretty clear that whatever processing is in the radio (normal and satellite) is just way off the mark.
 


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