Hi Gang,

I have a well loved 2014 2014 F-Type S.

My exhaust developed a rattle at about 60k miles. I ended picking up a used exhaust on eBay, and had it installed at a local shop (in Baton Rouge, LA) that works on exotics, but not specifically jaguars (few options by me outside the dealer). The exhaust sounded spot on, for about 1k miles then one day it sounded muffled. No longer the nice screaming v6 with the pops!

I took it the dealer for my 60k service and I asked them to check it out, and they say it sounded fine. I checked under the car when I got home and there seems to a fair amount of black soot where the exhaust mates to pipes coming from the headers.

Anyone else have this issue? Any help, insight would be great before I take it back to shop that installed it for their take.

Thanks!
x

 

2 possible explanations:
1. The muffler valves are stuck closed. Is there any difference in sound when dynamic is turned on vs off?
2. The cats got poisoned and are now plugged. Did you also note a decline in performance?

 

​​​​​​Thanks for the quick reply.

1. There is a difference in sound between the modes (dynamic is the one that sounds the most off), but even normal mode sounds like it's missing it's note with little if any pops. I was almost thinking maybe one of the two valves is stuck as a possibility.
2. It seems to get up to 60 and 100 at it's usual pace, What causes the cats to get poisoned, what is involved in cleaning the cats, or do I need to get new ones altogether?

 

If the cats are plugged they need to be replaced. If they are plugged they should throw a CEL code. Since you haven’t lost any power I’m leaning towards a muffler valve issue.

 

+1. Just point a flashlight down your outer exhaust tips and look at the valves. Your cats are covered by the federal emissions warranty til 8Y/80K miles.

 

I have a v6, so I only have 2 exhaust pipes, and if I remember correctly the valves are behind the muffler, so I would not see anything, but I will take a look anyway.

I also can confirm I have not lights on the dash, and the dealer said they did a full computer diagnosis and found no issues.

I wonder now

1. If the cats have to be replaced by the dealer if that was the issue, they are just trying to get out of it
2. If maybe it is not the valve, but compressor or what ever forces the valves open.

 

Here is the emission system warranty claim procedure.

https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/85.2106

Early Fs use normal intake vacuum lines to close the valves, I think later MYs use an electric pump. The valve is spring loaded open so it should be open with the engine off. With early MYs you could unstick it open then pull Fuse 43 to disable the ability to close it. I lost Fuse 43 a long time ago.

 

Its actually the other way around. MY ‘14 & ‘15 cars with the muffler valves used a vacuum pump to actuate the valves. The vacuum pumps were sufficiently problematic for JLR to drive those valves off of engine vacuum for MY’16 and later cars. A Technical Service Bulletin was also released to have dealers do a pump delete on the early models rather than to replace the pump on afflicted MY ‘14 & ‘15 cars.

 

Update...

I was able to get under the car yesterday.

Before starting it up and getting things too hot to touch. I took a look at the valves. There is a mechanical lever on each valve that I know can be manually forced (open/closed). I was able to move the right one, but the left one would not budge!

All the vacuums hoses seemed to be fitted properly an could not see any (with my limited view) cracks or damage. I am certainly not happy with how much soot is at the connection points of the muffler, but it is clear I need to get that valve unstuck first.

Any recommendations? Would WD-40 be the 1st step or is the better method?



Rear Left

Rear Right

 

I would try something a bit stronger than WD-40, like penetrating oil. It’s a bit questionable whether that will actually work, as it is more likely that it is carbon buildup rather than corrosion that has seized the valve. It is likely that the whole muffler will need to be replaced since those valves are not removable. If so, you might want to consider a (better sounding) VAP Valvetronic. The valves on that unit are removable If this problem occurs again.

 

Shouldnt there be clamps where the 2 seperate pipes join together, also it is fairly normal to have sooty water coming out of the exhaust on start up

 

If I am interpreting the photos correctly, I think I can see the clamp stud and nut.

 

Yep, I can see 'em as well. The stud is hiding behind the pipe with the tip sticking down.

 

Yeah. It is what made my chrome tips black at one point. I also noticed in the left pipe I could see soot sediment in it, while the right was clear. If can get the valve open, I'll see what speed it takes to get it loose

 

Hey Guys

Here is the latest. I was able to work the left valve open after letting it idle for a few minutes. Moving through the modes (dynamic and standard) I could hear exhaust note change as it should and the crackles and pops are back

My remaining concerns here are 2 things.
1. On idle, the right exhaust seemed to have the most visible condensation coming out, when to knowledge and first hand experience, it should be coming out evenly.
2. After raving the engine, I noticed two equal puddles where the muffler mates to the exhaust pipes going to the front of the car (see pictures). Seems like there is an issue the connection there.

 

No issue there. There are small openings purposefully placed in the bottom of the tubes at that joint to allow condensation to drain out of the exhaust pipes.