2014 F-Type V8 S Possible Mistake Made
#1
2014 F-Type V8 S Possible Mistake Made
Hi guys,
I bought the car with this history: https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistor...qkLvVGBOqdjNsx
I feel like i may have made a mistake but maybe not haha. I called the dealer that was doing "maintenance" and they told me that the car had its motor replaced and shifting lever also replaced. Said it was rare that the issue happened in the first place so a second time is unlikely. (I didnt buy it from that dealer btw.. they were just being nice telling me the history)
The part that alarmed me is that the dealer I actually bought from didn't do anything to the car prior to listing it for sale.. and for some reason carfax listed them twice as owners on the car in the wrong state. I didnt understand why they were pushing their Zurich warranty on me at the time of purchase, but after discovering the above ^^ it kind of makes sense.
A few questions:
Should i be alarmed at this?
Is it possible to get a warranty from Jaguar on it? Is it even worth it?
Ps I test drove it and it was great! the only thing was that i smelled a little bit of what seemed to be burned oil after driving it hard, but i thought that was because I drove it hard. Do any of you V8S owners ever smell anything from your car?
I bought the car with this history: https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistor...qkLvVGBOqdjNsx
I feel like i may have made a mistake but maybe not haha. I called the dealer that was doing "maintenance" and they told me that the car had its motor replaced and shifting lever also replaced. Said it was rare that the issue happened in the first place so a second time is unlikely. (I didnt buy it from that dealer btw.. they were just being nice telling me the history)
The part that alarmed me is that the dealer I actually bought from didn't do anything to the car prior to listing it for sale.. and for some reason carfax listed them twice as owners on the car in the wrong state. I didnt understand why they were pushing their Zurich warranty on me at the time of purchase, but after discovering the above ^^ it kind of makes sense.
A few questions:
Should i be alarmed at this?
Is it possible to get a warranty from Jaguar on it? Is it even worth it?
Ps I test drove it and it was great! the only thing was that i smelled a little bit of what seemed to be burned oil after driving it hard, but i thought that was because I drove it hard. Do any of you V8S owners ever smell anything from your car?
#3
@AdministrationTeam is it possible to move this to the F Type section of the forums?
YES
Graham
#4
#5
#6
I called the dealer that serviced it and he told me they replaced the motor. I guess it was under warranty at the time so it was covered. Thanks for the slight reassurance tho haha
#8
#9
The problem is that the numbers won't match, so you can't hide it from even the most basic PPI. Its not necessarily a bad deal with a solid discount. But you certainly have the option to void the deal if the engine was not disclosed.
As far as a CPO warranty, the car has to be 100% original with no accidents. So they won't certify it.
The biggest question in my mind is if the engine is new, or just new to the car. My guess would be the latter. I'm pretty sure that legally you have to accurately disclose the miles on both the car and the engine, if different, at the time of sale.
So if they did not disclose the miles on the engine and its not new, not only can you void the deal, you can sue for punitive damages which generally runs 3x the amount of the car.
Last edited by JIMLIGHTA; 02-09-2019 at 11:12 PM.
#10
#11
While it is tempting, this is actually very dangerous thing to do. Don't get hard on gas on a curved road or while turning in a rear-wheel drive car. You are increasing chance of your rear wheel breaking loose and the car skidding sideways. Unless you know what you are doing, only go wide open throttle while car is on a flat road going perfectly straight.
Again, do not accelerate into turn/curve.
Again, do not accelerate into turn/curve.
#12
While it is tempting, this is actually very dangerous thing to do. Don't get hard on gas on a curved road or while turning in a rear-wheel drive car. You are increasing chance of your rear wheel breaking loose and the car skidding sideways. Unless you know what you are doing, only go wide open throttle while car is on a flat road going perfectly straight.
Again, do not accelerate into turn/curve.
Again, do not accelerate into turn/curve.
Last edited by JIMLIGHTA; 02-10-2019 at 08:00 AM.
#13
While it is tempting, this is actually very dangerous thing to do. Don't get hard on gas on a curved road or while turning in a rear-wheel drive car. You are increasing chance of your rear wheel breaking loose and the car skidding sideways. Unless you know what you are doing, only go wide open throttle while car is on a flat road going perfectly straight.
Again, do not accelerate into turn/curve.
Again, do not accelerate into turn/curve.
Its good that its not in the carfax, but it makes you wonder if the engine was changed without reporting it, what else did they do off the record?
The problem is that the numbers won't match, so you can't hide it from even the most basic PPI. Its not necessarily a bad deal with a solid discount. But you certainly have the option to void the deal if the engine was not disclosed.
As far as a CPO warranty, the car has to be 100% original with no accidents. So they won't certify it.
The biggest question in my mind is if the engine is new, or just new to the car. My guess would be the latter. I'm pretty sure that legally you have to accurately disclose the miles on both the car and the engine, if different, at the time of sale.
So if they did not disclose the miles on the engine and its not new, not only can you void the deal, you can sue for punitive damages which generally runs 3x the amount of the car.
The problem is that the numbers won't match, so you can't hide it from even the most basic PPI. Its not necessarily a bad deal with a solid discount. But you certainly have the option to void the deal if the engine was not disclosed.
As far as a CPO warranty, the car has to be 100% original with no accidents. So they won't certify it.
The biggest question in my mind is if the engine is new, or just new to the car. My guess would be the latter. I'm pretty sure that legally you have to accurately disclose the miles on both the car and the engine, if different, at the time of sale.
So if they did not disclose the miles on the engine and its not new, not only can you void the deal, you can sue for punitive damages which generally runs 3x the amount of the car.
#14
While it is tempting, this is actually very dangerous thing to do. Don't get hard on gas on a curved road or while turning in a rear-wheel drive car. You are increasing chance of your rear wheel breaking loose and the car skidding sideways. Unless you know what you are doing, only go wide open throttle while car is on a flat road going perfectly straight.
Again, do not accelerate into turn/curve.
Again, do not accelerate into turn/curve.
#15
#16
The reason any auto enthusiast will tell you RWD is vastly superior to AWD or God-fobid FWD, is more WHP combined with the ability to self-modulate neutrality, under and oversteer. Granted, it's usually not a tool for public roads, but neither is the 186 speed limiter. OTOH kicking the tail out is very benign, fun, and faster under the right conditions.
Probably the best place to practice is any decently powerful go-cart track where managing oversteer under full throttle is essential to posting a competitive lap time. Those who come off the throttle or break into sharp turns won't be able to keep up. This will give you a basic appreciation and skill set that you can then take to any driving school in your Jag.
You are very lucky to have a RWD sports car before the unskilled masses kill them off. The lawyers are forcing AWD because it is better suited to drivers who cannot safely manage z-axis rotation. This applies to most magazine/pop culture car tests too, as the "pro" drivers usually spend no more than a few minutes with the car, and lawyers ride them like circus ponies.
But it doesn't take a pro to handle a powerful RWD car, all it takes is a miniscule level of common sense (sadly this eliminates the bottom 90% of drivers) to always stay inside your ever-expanding comfort zone. That's all, zero experience required.
AWD is clearly safer for those unable to recognize the most basic risks, but AWD comes at a noticeable WHP penalty and is less capable, making it less safe at times. It's also unmanageable on ice, which is a common hazard in many areas.
The dealer that did the swap is not the one I bought it from. Also its worth noting that it was sold "as is". I think a case would still stand on the basis of the undisclosed mismatch in mileage though.
Last edited by JIMLIGHTA; 02-10-2019 at 02:50 PM.
#17
LMAO - That driver would have crashed his car if it had 6 wheel drive - did they test him for drugs? Lets stop the hysteria over RWD, this is not a Prius forum. Fact - most of the current fastest street cars tested by motor trend on a race track are RWD. 720S, ZR1, most Lambos', Ferrari's, etc.
#19
LMAO - That driver would have crashed his car if it had 6 wheel drive - did they test him for drugs? Lets stop the hysteria over RWD, this is not a Prius forum. Fact - most of the current fastest street cars tested by motor trend on a race track are RWD. 720S, ZR1, most Lambos', Ferrari's, etc.
Powerful RWD cars like early F-type V8S requires handling with care when driving, a novice driver used to driving AWD car can easily crash it into the wall, just like in the video I linked. This doesn't mean RWD is slow, or that it couldn't be driven fast by a knowledgeable driver, but it does mean that mashing pedal on an on-ramp could end up badly.
#20
In RWD car, when your rear starts sliding in a turn you end up in overster situation. You need not to panic and only gradually reduce throttle while counter-steering. If you rapidly lift (reduce throttle), this will shift weight to front of your car making oversteer worse, possibly ending in a spin. If you stay on the throttle, you will drift, gradually sliding to the outside edge of the road. This gives you more time and room to correct the situation and properly recover from a drift.
TL;DR Don't lift if you start sliding. Don't mash pedal too early in the corner. Keep your eyes on where you want to go and not where your car pointing at or sliding to.
TL;DR Don't lift if you start sliding. Don't mash pedal too early in the corner. Keep your eyes on where you want to go and not where your car pointing at or sliding to.