So, other than flipping that latch found in the center console, I don't know how to put the car in neutral without the engine running (i.e. via the stick). I did flip the latch up and confirmed I could push the car, but honestly not sure I tried to start it latch-up in "manual" neutral. Worth a try tomorrow but at this point I'm not hopeful. Any other suggestions to check the park/neutral interlock? Appreciate the ongoing help folks.

 

Quick update: pulled the manual neutral latch again, noticed the indicator on the stick flashes "N", tried to start, same thing.

Next:
- considering asking if the local auto parts store will allow me to buy a battery, try it out, and return if it doesn't change things. Worth a shot at least?
- have to see if my jack can fit under the car, lift it up and try a few things: see where that noise is coming from, see if there's voltage to the solenoid, maybe knock things around a bit...

Any other suggestions always welcome! BTW tried pulling diagnostic codes via torque/OBD2 connector and nothing. Does Jaguar have something that is non-standard? I do notice a triangle/exclamation and a check engine light on the dash, but that might just be due to the ignition being on when the car doesn't start. Very new so not used to what the 'norms' are for this car.

Thanks all, what a way to introduce myself to this community :/

 

If it is the battery (which it often is), you should be able to jump it from another car. I have done it twice with a bad battery. Often, faster than getting a spare battery.

 

Have tried jumping from my 4Runner both at the front terminals and at the battery itself, no change. Might try it again just for kicks - I did hear the motor load down a bit, so jump connections were good. Was thinking maybe it's a weird voltage thing since these use AGM batteries and my old 4Runner doesn't?

 

Jaguar uses SDD and/or VCI/IDS (so yes, special). If you connected a different OBDII device to the car that is not able to close the session your battery will drain until you reset/reboot it. Simply disconnect the (-) cable and reconnect to reset it. (Assuming your battery is not/was not already dead.

DC

 

Wow so you're telling me, I plug in my OBD2 adapter, then un-plug it, and the car just drains itself? lol. That's awesome. Thanks for the heads up - I'll head out and reset it now.

 

Have you tested the brake light switch? That will prevent the car from starting if defective.

wombat

 

Hmmm interesting idea - I'll test that tomorrow - if the brake light switch is defective, will the car still recognize the brake pedal when starting? Or is it the same thing? Because it is definitely doing that - seeing me press the brake while I start. If I try to start without the brake, it gives me the message to press the brake, which then changes/goes away when I do apply the brake.

It still makes that strange noise too - not sure if it's a normal strange noise or a noise related to the issue I'm having (i.e. maybe starter). The car makes all sorts of groans etc. when you press the brake etc. so I'm honestly not sure if it's normal or not. On the first link inside the car you can hear it at 0:05 and 0:19


A click then brrrt. Not sure if that's a fuel pump priming thing or what, but I also wonder if the click is the solenoid and the brrt is the starter motor being seized up.

 

In the XKR, if you step on the brake pedal too long after shut down, the car will not start again until, you've literally stood on the break pedal with a tremendous amount of force (to the point that you think you'll break the pedal).
Try standing on the break pedal real hard while pressing the start button, it worked for me several times on my 5.0L XKR in the past.

 

Yep, I had the same problem with my old 2010 XFR just before I got the F-Type.
Every now and then hitting the start button resulted in zero zip zilch, no noise no click no nuffin, and I had to stand on the brake (note the spelling!) pedal as hard as I physically could before the car would start. I put it down to a brake pedal switch on the way out and I was going to replace it but then I got the F-Type instead.
From my experience and reading it seems these Jag brake pedal switches start to fail at the six or seven year old mark so maybe we will start to see early F-Types having the same problem.

 

My battery went quick in my 2016 just a couple weeks ago. I received 1 warning and then it was dead. It was so dead that even with a booster connected to the front engine jump posts it wouldn't give power to the car. Thankfully the booster I borrowed has a "boost" button that sends extra power through the car and that is what was needed in my car just to supply enough power to pop the hatch to get to the battery for replacement. Hope you figure this out soon as I think many of us would love to know what is going on.

 

tberg & OzXFR, thanks for the suggestion, will try this morning. Before I go brutal on my brake pedal, any other symptoms of a bad switch? I.E. no brake lights when pressing on the pedal?

 

Followup: gave the hard brake press a try, nope! Brake lights work too, even with a lighter press, so guessing it's not that switch. Onward!

 

You might find this link interesting. Apparently just because the brake lights work doesn't mean that the switch is good.

https://www.youcanic.com/article/bra...ms-diagnostics

Never knew this because I never had a brake switch fail in my entire life (knock on wood).

Also is it possible that Jaguars have a brake system pressure switch too?

 

Thanks for the link! Might dig through the manual and see what I can find out about what we have on the F-Type, I imagine it does have a pressure switch, they supposedly sense pedal acceleration and trigger brake assist systems. Wish I had a way to query the diagnostic systems.

 

My old XK8's brake switch actually contained 2 switches within the one unit. It's my understanding that 1 switch operated the lights, and the other one was for functions like CC, Start, Gear shift etc

wombat

 

Thanks wombat!

Quick update: installed a new battery...no change! Glad I spent that $215!

So now I guess we're down to:

- recheck connectivity, voltage to starter, fuses, etc (have already checked the big fuses but will check them again)
- evaluate starter operation, shoved my phone under the car to record some audio, some interesting noises going on, definitely hear a click, and occasionally a whirr (not conclusive), might indicate the solenoid plunger not activating, but speculation at this point until I get the car up
- evaluate brake switch, anybody know the location of this, I'm assuming it's under the dash but if there's a thread somewhere about it LMK
- very small voltage drop across the battery when starting, looks to stay above 12v, it does move but not by much, might be some latency in my meter but generally the battery isn't being loaded at start

 

I wouldn't sweat the battery purchase too much, based on age. But, after CTEK and jumping didn't work, it's no surprise that the battery wasn't the problem.
Time to focus on the starter. If you want one last thing to try before grabbing a wrench -- wack it with a broom handle. Not likely, but easy/quick. Even then, you'd want to replace the starter, but at least it would confirm the culprit.

 

Brake switch is located at top of brake pedal lever on the left side according to the repair manual. There is a a brake pedal switch fuse somewhere too . There is also a brake pressure sensor in the abs module.

If you can get your hands on a Jaguar code scanner that will show if there is a DTC related to the brake switch or conflict with the switch and brake pressure in abs module.

Also looks like the starter motor has a special solenoid set up to support the start /stop function. So the suggestion to tap the starter mechanism is probably a good idea. In the old days the starter solenoid would also fail and you could test that by bypassing it with a stout connector between the solenoid terminal and the starter terminal. Don't know if it can be done with this setup though.

 

Agree on the age, like a friend of mine said: "preventative maintenance" - if I can carve out some time this weekend I'll jack the car and take a look. See if the starter is getting voltage (and what voltage), listen to any noises it makes, make some noise myself tapping it with a hammer

QQ - don't think it's relevant, but if the little stop/start battery goes south, would that have an impact? Gut says no but not used to how complex these Jags are.