Hello, I’ve acquired a 2016 base coupe within warranty and I’m looking to add extra power and keep warranty

After some research on the forum it seems like racechip + upper pulley are two option as they are pretty easy to remove ( with the upper pulley tool)

my question is with racechip increasing boost and then the smaller upper pulley also increasing the boost (May it be 1-1.5 PSI ) will that cause a CEL?

Also are there any other reasonable upgrades to add power without voiding the warranty? Only other thing I’m planning is better tires

 

I put race chip RS version on my 5l xkr gives it more power . aint done the pulleys as i am happy with just the race chip. hope others can advise

 

Both the chip and the pulley invalidate the warranty, technically. Jag doesn't seem to be too strict, from what I hear through the grapevine...

The chip doesn't increase boost, just adjusts engine operation (timing and stuff like that). Pulleys, both upper and lower, increase boost.

 

But with race chip they dont know if you take it off with a map they can tell

 

The pulley will invalidate your warranty if they catch it. I've had my small upper pulley in for dealer visits and they didn't notice. Mine is black instead of stock silver, I would get a silver one for a little better camo.

Racechip doesn't leave a trace after it is removed. It is easy to install and uninstall. To get to the stock sensor on the rear of the engine remove the screw on the opposite side of engine center that holds the rear wiring harness in place. Push the wiring harness back about an inch and wedge something between it and the engine to create 1" of space. Stick a flathead screwdriver through the gap to unclip the sensor and to push it off. Remove the wedge so the wiring harness goes back into place. Stand behind the driver side front wheel, facing the back of the car. Slide your left hand down between the firewall and the rear of the engine, palm toward the nose of the car, and grab the loose sensor. Pull it up and clip it to the Racechip harness. Put the Rachip sensor in your left hand oriented the same way and slide your hand back in to clip the Racechip intercept onto the engine sensor. It takes about 5 mins once you get the hang of it.

 

Maybe I’m interpreting what he said wrong, but I guess regardless the question remains: Will the Racechip and upper pulley throw a CEL light?

 

Much appreciated !

 

Would love to see photos as on the xkr is a pita and way more than 1 screw to remove more like 6-8 to get any movement of wiring harness

 

Don’t bother with the upper pulley. The OEM upper pulley on the V6 is 62mm (as opposed to 66mm on the V8). The smallest pulley that will fit on the SC is 60.5, a mere 2.4% reduction in size on the V6. No, a RaceChip tune and an upper pulley will not throw any codes. A lower pulley provides enough added boost to require modified ecu mapping to prevent throwing a code. The RaceChip will not resolve that issue.

 

Changing the upper pulley will not throw a code with or without Racechip. The pulley increases stock HP 20 hp/20 ft lbs at peak numbers and as much as 40 hp / 40 ft lbs best case over the whole RPM band.

 

Thank you! Are there any mods you could suggest in addition to the racechip that won’t throw a CEL ?

 

Thanks!

 

I suspect you’ll be maxed out if you limit yourself to the RaceChip option. You might get a minuscule amount of power out of different intake/filters, but not very cost effective. Max power will come from a lower pulley/ecu tune short of swapping out major engine components.

 

Racechip has a good youtube channel that shows their test and tune on lots of cars. It seems like such a simple idea, it tells the ECU the achieved boost is lower than it really is, so any stock boost limiter won't matter. Bolt-ons should still add their gains, maybe more. They have a bluetooth interface to switch from off through the maps as you drive so you can feel the difference.

 

Not that much for power, but the VAP exhaust. I don't know if your Base coupe has the active exhaust or not but I know the base passive exhaust isn`t the loudest and VAP sounds awesome, may give u a few horsepower, but will make the car a lot more fun!

 

He might be able to pull the fuse or disconnect the vacuum lines to open the exhaust valves if he doesn't have an active exhaust.

 

If the car isn't optioned with "active exhaust" does it even have valves? Mine has valves but is not optioned with "switchable", thus I have to rig the valves continuously open to enjoy full-time enhanced listening pleasure.

 

Also non-switchable here; I bought a little wireless relay and fob sold by a guy in England (recommended here, don't have the link handy.) Push a button, and it either puts fuse F43 in the circuit, or it removes it. So, I get normal non-switchable active exhaust (with dynamic mode on), or 100% open valves. I like the remote as with the top up and the valves open, the car drones badly at highway speeds.

But the vacuum pump was removed in 2016 (?), so this only works for early cars.

 

Mine is a coupe and I get no drone at all, unlike my old 2015 Ghibli for which I also rigged open the exhaust gates (as they called them) and got a very annoying drone at a certain cruising speed.

 

Does the race chip impact any of the ecu’s inherent safety features that might prevent engine issues? How safe is it?
ive always preferred software tunes that output actual values vs piggy backs that trick the Ecu with incorrect values, but with the way this car stores codes in the Ecu and all other modules, I don’t see any other options for tuning and maintaining warranty.