2016 F TYPE S Battery issue?
#21
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RacerX,
That's interesting!
Saw your thread and just went down to The Beast, uncovered it, looked inside everything dark. Opened the door illuminating, driver dials, Jaguar Touch Screen and... the illuminated Hazard button.
Now, the battery has been charging, just in my opinion taking longer than I would assume it would. ie. This past Sunday Starting out fully charged and returning with 2 + 30 min drives, there and back, I would think that the battery should register fully charged; but what do I know? I thought when it went to charge mode it would be at full charge "quickly" like an hour. It wasn't until morning when I checked its condition so 9+ hours perhaps.?
So this lit Hazard Button means a reboot is needed? I cannot find any info in the manual about this, at all.
What is your suggestion as to performing a reboot; if that is necessary.
Thanks for lending your insight.
That's interesting!
Saw your thread and just went down to The Beast, uncovered it, looked inside everything dark. Opened the door illuminating, driver dials, Jaguar Touch Screen and... the illuminated Hazard button.
Now, the battery has been charging, just in my opinion taking longer than I would assume it would. ie. This past Sunday Starting out fully charged and returning with 2 + 30 min drives, there and back, I would think that the battery should register fully charged; but what do I know? I thought when it went to charge mode it would be at full charge "quickly" like an hour. It wasn't until morning when I checked its condition so 9+ hours perhaps.?
So this lit Hazard Button means a reboot is needed? I cannot find any info in the manual about this, at all.
What is your suggestion as to performing a reboot; if that is necessary.
Thanks for lending your insight.
If you need the reboot, the red triangle hazard light will remain illuminated even after everything else in the car has gone to sleep and is dark (additionally, if you open the door after this the driver information center between the dials would also likely say something like "Low Battery, Start Car Soon"). It sounds like you came down and before opening the car door the red triangle hazard was not lit, so it does not sound like you need to reboot the system.
If you have a voltage meter you can check the terminals of the battery with your battery manager charging it (or you can check it at the jumping location under the hood immediately in back of the passenger side headlight). You should see a fairly consistent voltage and if you check it every 10 minutes or so that voltage should be increasing slowly and steadily over the duration of the charge.
Last edited by rbsj; 10-29-2019 at 04:13 PM. Reason: Clarification
#22
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I think the hazard light stays on when everything is (should be) dark when that fault condition exists. Yours sounds okay to me, though I could be wrong!
To get to the negative cable to remove it you have to dig into the bottom of the trunk/boot - you'll see the black cable coming from the negative battery terminal to the earth point on the floor.
To get to the negative cable to remove it you have to dig into the bottom of the trunk/boot - you'll see the black cable coming from the negative battery terminal to the earth point on the floor.
Thank you SCM!
Yea, I believe my Red Hazard Triangle has always been illuminated in the way I described in the find, after reading the reboot thought. I'm pretty sure ever since I bought the car April 2018 it has always been illuminated along with the touch screen and driver dials when first opening up the Cockpit.
Regardless, "Night Furry"... hehehe... is worth all this learning and dealing. AND AS SOON AS I CAN FIGURE OUT HOW TO GET THE "!!@%#$%&(^*%" hold down bar off, after unscrewing the fender side... I feel confident in changing out the battery.... Any thoughts or knowledge?
In advance Thank You for your input and help!
Enjoy Your Drives...
#24
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I believe my Red Hazard Triangle has always been illuminated in the way I described
The car has 'failed to sleep' if you see the triangle illuminated more than a half-hour after you shut the car off and close all the doors. If you have a garage, leave the drivers window down so that you can peek in.
#26
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To clarify further, when all is right, when you close and lock the doors, the inside lights will dim to 0, the screen will shut down, instruments will shut down. The last thing lit will be that triangle. Mine takes about 3 minutes to turn off. If it remains lit after that, there is a problem.
#27
#29
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I had a look at mine last night and the tie down bolt to the right of the battery (ie not the fender side one) is sitting out in plain sight and is a breeze to access, while the fender side bolt is easy to access just by lifting the little flap in the side trim.
But mine is RHD (dunno if that makes any difference) and more importantly I have zero styrofoam inserts either side of the battery, and I understand this is the OP's problem. Maybe it's as simple as Lance says, if there is a piece styrofoam in the way just pull it up and out of the way!
#30
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OK, That is very helpful to have the visual on the "inside" bolt, seeing what I am dealing with, The Styrofoam must be able to lift out.
I was treating it a little too cautiously perhaps. Now seeing what I am dealing with gives me reconnaissance I can use!
Again, I appreciate all your efforts.
Respectfully,
D Leonard (FTYPEV6S)
I was treating it a little too cautiously perhaps. Now seeing what I am dealing with gives me reconnaissance I can use!
Again, I appreciate all your efforts.
Respectfully,
D Leonard (FTYPEV6S)
#31
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OK, That is very helpful to have the visual on the "inside" bolt, seeing what I am dealing with, The Styrofoam must be able to lift out.
I was treating it a little too cautiously perhaps. Now seeing what I am dealing with gives me reconnaissance I can use!
Again, I appreciate all your efforts.
Respectfully,
D Leonard (FTYPEV6S)
I was treating it a little too cautiously perhaps. Now seeing what I am dealing with gives me reconnaissance I can use!
Again, I appreciate all your efforts.
Respectfully,
D Leonard (FTYPEV6S)
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#33
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Yes Gentleman, Enthusiasts, Owners of Hi Performance Sports Cars... SUCCESS!
Well many thanks to the input from all contributors to my "Battery Issue" thread, especially diagrams and pics!
It would be assuming to say, here is my long and well awaited update to facing and solving my "Battery Issue"; but Yes, OK, I said it.
As of this evening My F-TYPE V6 S has a NEW Battery Unit installed and FULLY CHARGED, and I did not short circuit the Vehicle... FEW!!!
I am not a mechanic, nor have I played one on TV, but I have been around cars, and exposed to engines from an early age, my dad was a weekend car mechanic. Having jumped-boosted, and installed batteries in "a few" vehicles and batteries in my life, a battery change was not an initial concern, until I saw the tight spot and inaccessibility to the battery first, etc, it seemed some sorcery knowledge was necessary. You, the members of this forum have been invaluable to my success on this mission.
The battery swap especially, and maintenance advice I have benefitted from, all the many key tips in this experience from you all on this forum, I am grateful for your help, support!
Extremely key is getting that Negative Earth Ground DISCONNECTED... Oh, boy! Yea, a few sparks flew...
*** IMPORTANT ***
Because I had to make an extra trip to the Automotive Store when I thought I the nearing to buttoning up The BEAST was at hand. I needed a $2.50 (US) item NECESSARY to complete my equipment install.
*** Battery terminal SHIMS ***. Yes, the negative post on the new is slightly smaller in diameter than the original negative post.
The shim did require a modification, tin snips to active duty, the shim snipped into a half sleeve to make it work, but now snug as a 'dug in Alabama Tick". Blain, "Predator".
Now after the first test drive all is well and "Night Furry" is tucked away for the week.
I only had to reset Time and date, Re-program windows, manually close the Trunk/Boot once then it was automatic again.
The computer even kept my garage door programmed to open and close. Blue tooth re-connected phone with ease and everything else working to "Purrr-fection"
Thank you for suffering through my pros, and again Thank You All for the assist!
Any suggestions as to a particular website to purchase a download shop repair manual and what perhaps to look for?
To All, Have a Great, Blessed, Prosperous week ahead, and Enjoy Your Drives!
D. Leonard (FYPEV6S)
Well many thanks to the input from all contributors to my "Battery Issue" thread, especially diagrams and pics!
It would be assuming to say, here is my long and well awaited update to facing and solving my "Battery Issue"; but Yes, OK, I said it.
As of this evening My F-TYPE V6 S has a NEW Battery Unit installed and FULLY CHARGED, and I did not short circuit the Vehicle... FEW!!!
I am not a mechanic, nor have I played one on TV, but I have been around cars, and exposed to engines from an early age, my dad was a weekend car mechanic. Having jumped-boosted, and installed batteries in "a few" vehicles and batteries in my life, a battery change was not an initial concern, until I saw the tight spot and inaccessibility to the battery first, etc, it seemed some sorcery knowledge was necessary. You, the members of this forum have been invaluable to my success on this mission.
The battery swap especially, and maintenance advice I have benefitted from, all the many key tips in this experience from you all on this forum, I am grateful for your help, support!
Extremely key is getting that Negative Earth Ground DISCONNECTED... Oh, boy! Yea, a few sparks flew...
*** IMPORTANT ***
Because I had to make an extra trip to the Automotive Store when I thought I the nearing to buttoning up The BEAST was at hand. I needed a $2.50 (US) item NECESSARY to complete my equipment install.
*** Battery terminal SHIMS ***. Yes, the negative post on the new is slightly smaller in diameter than the original negative post.
The shim did require a modification, tin snips to active duty, the shim snipped into a half sleeve to make it work, but now snug as a 'dug in Alabama Tick". Blain, "Predator".
Now after the first test drive all is well and "Night Furry" is tucked away for the week.
I only had to reset Time and date, Re-program windows, manually close the Trunk/Boot once then it was automatic again.
The computer even kept my garage door programmed to open and close. Blue tooth re-connected phone with ease and everything else working to "Purrr-fection"
Thank you for suffering through my pros, and again Thank You All for the assist!
Any suggestions as to a particular website to purchase a download shop repair manual and what perhaps to look for?
To All, Have a Great, Blessed, Prosperous week ahead, and Enjoy Your Drives!
D. Leonard (FYPEV6S)
#34
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 8,463
Received 3,226 Likes
on
2,380 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes Gentleman, Enthusiasts, Owners of Hi Performance Sports Cars... SUCCESS!
Well many thanks to the input from all contributors to my "Battery Issue" thread, especially diagrams and pics!
It would be assuming to say, here is my long and well awaited update to facing and solving my "Battery Issue"; but Yes, OK, I said it.
As of this evening My F-TYPE V6 S has a NEW Battery Unit installed and FULLY CHARGED, and I did not short circuit the Vehicle... FEW!!!
I am not a mechanic, nor have I played one on TV, but I have been around cars, and exposed to engines from an early age, my dad was a weekend car mechanic. Having jumped-boosted, and installed batteries in "a few" vehicles and batteries in my life, a battery change was not an initial concern, until I saw the tight spot and inaccessibility to the battery first, etc, it seemed some sorcery knowledge was necessary. You, the members of this forum have been invaluable to my success on this mission.
The battery swap especially, and maintenance advice I have benefitted from, all the many key tips in this experience from you all on this forum, I am grateful for your help, support!
Extremely key is getting that Negative Earth Ground DISCONNECTED... Oh, boy! Yea, a few sparks flew...
*** IMPORTANT ***
Because I had to make an extra trip to the Automotive Store when I thought I the nearing to buttoning up The BEAST was at hand. I needed a $2.50 (US) item NECESSARY to complete my equipment install.
*** Battery terminal SHIMS ***. Yes, the negative post on the new is slightly smaller in diameter than the original negative post.
The shim did require a modification, tin snips to active duty, the shim snipped into a half sleeve to make it work, but now snug as a 'dug in Alabama Tick". Blain, "Predator".
Now after the first test drive all is well and "Night Furry" is tucked away for the week.
I only had to reset Time and date, Re-program windows, manually close the Trunk/Boot once then it was automatic again.
The computer even kept my garage door programmed to open and close. Blue tooth re-connected phone with ease and everything else working to "Purrr-fection"
Thank you for suffering through my pros, and again Thank You All for the assist!
Any suggestions as to a particular website to purchase a download shop repair manual and what perhaps to look for?
To All, Have a Great, Blessed, Prosperous week ahead, and Enjoy Your Drives!
D. Leonard (FYPEV6S)
Well many thanks to the input from all contributors to my "Battery Issue" thread, especially diagrams and pics!
It would be assuming to say, here is my long and well awaited update to facing and solving my "Battery Issue"; but Yes, OK, I said it.
As of this evening My F-TYPE V6 S has a NEW Battery Unit installed and FULLY CHARGED, and I did not short circuit the Vehicle... FEW!!!
I am not a mechanic, nor have I played one on TV, but I have been around cars, and exposed to engines from an early age, my dad was a weekend car mechanic. Having jumped-boosted, and installed batteries in "a few" vehicles and batteries in my life, a battery change was not an initial concern, until I saw the tight spot and inaccessibility to the battery first, etc, it seemed some sorcery knowledge was necessary. You, the members of this forum have been invaluable to my success on this mission.
The battery swap especially, and maintenance advice I have benefitted from, all the many key tips in this experience from you all on this forum, I am grateful for your help, support!
Extremely key is getting that Negative Earth Ground DISCONNECTED... Oh, boy! Yea, a few sparks flew...
*** IMPORTANT ***
Because I had to make an extra trip to the Automotive Store when I thought I the nearing to buttoning up The BEAST was at hand. I needed a $2.50 (US) item NECESSARY to complete my equipment install.
*** Battery terminal SHIMS ***. Yes, the negative post on the new is slightly smaller in diameter than the original negative post.
The shim did require a modification, tin snips to active duty, the shim snipped into a half sleeve to make it work, but now snug as a 'dug in Alabama Tick". Blain, "Predator".
Now after the first test drive all is well and "Night Furry" is tucked away for the week.
I only had to reset Time and date, Re-program windows, manually close the Trunk/Boot once then it was automatic again.
The computer even kept my garage door programmed to open and close. Blue tooth re-connected phone with ease and everything else working to "Purrr-fection"
Thank you for suffering through my pros, and again Thank You All for the assist!
Any suggestions as to a particular website to purchase a download shop repair manual and what perhaps to look for?
To All, Have a Great, Blessed, Prosperous week ahead, and Enjoy Your Drives!
D. Leonard (FYPEV6S)
You could register for TOPIx then pay for download time but it's painful finding then downloading bits at a time.
Or else you can get a free copy of my V6S Workshop Manual from my Dropbox here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/d52ciochjn...anual.pdf?dl=0
But be warned, it is 28,000 pages with lots of duplication!
#35
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You can't buy an F-Type Workshop Manual anywhere any more.
You could register for TOPIx then pay for download time but it's painful finding then downloading bits at a time.
Or else you can get a free copy of my V6S Workshop Manual from my Dropbox here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/d52ciochjn...anual.pdf?dl=0
But be warned, it is 28,000 pages with lots of duplication!
You could register for TOPIx then pay for download time but it's painful finding then downloading bits at a time.
Or else you can get a free copy of my V6S Workshop Manual from my Dropbox here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/d52ciochjn...anual.pdf?dl=0
But be warned, it is 28,000 pages with lots of duplication!
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