2016 model year lease payments / sale price
#1
2016 model year lease payments / sale price
Usually I go to Edmunds for stuff like this, but there just isn't enough traffic there for rare makes and models. While I find publication of money factors and residuals helpful, I think what most people shopping for leases want to see are sale prices, and how they translate into monthly payments. Unfortunately just knowing the RV/MF doesn't do it all.
For those leasing 2016 F-types, if you wouldn't mind, could you respond with the following:
Coupe/Convertible
Trim level
Option packages / upgrades
Sale price
Cash at signing
Monthly payment
Myself and probably some other future shoppers would greatly appreciate it!
For those leasing 2016 F-types, if you wouldn't mind, could you respond with the following:
Coupe/Convertible
Trim level
Option packages / upgrades
Sale price
Cash at signing
Monthly payment
Myself and probably some other future shoppers would greatly appreciate it!
#2
It's actually pretty easy to figure out the monthly lease payment. I have a spreadsheet that does that and it's accurate to within $20 of what the leasing company will do. If you want, I can punch in the numbers for you. Just need:
- MSRP
- negotiated price (price if you were to just buy it)
- money factor
- residual
- state tax
E.g., a 2015 R w/ a residual of 52%, MF of 0.00107 translate into about $1600/month + $140/month tax (CA tax) = $1800/month, assuming zero down, paying MSRP. The residual on the non-Rs should be slightly higher, probably mid 50%. This is all for 36 months, around 10-12K miles/year.
- MSRP
- negotiated price (price if you were to just buy it)
- money factor
- residual
- state tax
E.g., a 2015 R w/ a residual of 52%, MF of 0.00107 translate into about $1600/month + $140/month tax (CA tax) = $1800/month, assuming zero down, paying MSRP. The residual on the non-Rs should be slightly higher, probably mid 50%. This is all for 36 months, around 10-12K miles/year.
#3
#4
Take that for what it's worth.
#5
I posted this last year, but I am sure you can find similar with a little negotiating and effort. I always wonder why people on these forums don't post actual payments. Is it against the rules? I would think we would all try to gather this info so we can all get better pricing on F Types.
"I leased a V6 S in Atlanta about 6 months ago. Pricing can definitely vary by dealer. When it was all said and done, I put down 20k and have 35 payments of $455. My goal was to get into a 36 month lease and pay 36k. I just made that goal. MSRP was $92,500. The V6 and V6S are definitely the lease sweet spots as far as residual value. The V8 came out $250-$300 more per month.
On a side note, I have been leasing cars for about 10 years. I always walk in with the mentality of "net pricing", which in my case was 36k for 36 months. Salesman will put 10 different spins on the same exact payment all day long. IMO, stick to the net and you got a shot..."
"I leased a V6 S in Atlanta about 6 months ago. Pricing can definitely vary by dealer. When it was all said and done, I put down 20k and have 35 payments of $455. My goal was to get into a 36 month lease and pay 36k. I just made that goal. MSRP was $92,500. The V6 and V6S are definitely the lease sweet spots as far as residual value. The V8 came out $250-$300 more per month.
On a side note, I have been leasing cars for about 10 years. I always walk in with the mentality of "net pricing", which in my case was 36k for 36 months. Salesman will put 10 different spins on the same exact payment all day long. IMO, stick to the net and you got a shot..."
#6
Posting actual payments is misleading..too many factors: down payment, state taxes, incentive/rebates, interest rate, etc. Your case is an example. $455 sounds great, but that's with a $20K down and frankly I have no idea what the state tax is in GA. Same reason you really can't base payments off commercials...there is always the fine print you have to read.
#7
I posted this last year, but I am sure you can find similar with a little negotiating and effort. I always wonder why people on these forums don't post actual payments. Is it against the rules? I would think we would all try to gather this info so we can all get better pricing on F Types.
"I leased a V6 S in Atlanta about 6 months ago. Pricing can definitely vary by dealer. When it was all said and done, I put down 20k and have 35 payments of $455. My goal was to get into a 36 month lease and pay 36k. I just made that goal. MSRP was $92,500. The V6 and V6S are definitely the lease sweet spots as far as residual value. The V8 came out $250-$300 more per month.
On a side note, I have been leasing cars for about 10 years. I always walk in with the mentality of "net pricing", which in my case was 36k for 36 months. Salesman will put 10 different spins on the same exact payment all day long. IMO, stick to the net and you got a shot..."
"I leased a V6 S in Atlanta about 6 months ago. Pricing can definitely vary by dealer. When it was all said and done, I put down 20k and have 35 payments of $455. My goal was to get into a 36 month lease and pay 36k. I just made that goal. MSRP was $92,500. The V6 and V6S are definitely the lease sweet spots as far as residual value. The V8 came out $250-$300 more per month.
On a side note, I have been leasing cars for about 10 years. I always walk in with the mentality of "net pricing", which in my case was 36k for 36 months. Salesman will put 10 different spins on the same exact payment all day long. IMO, stick to the net and you got a shot..."
I must say your strategy feels risky...putting a huge down payment on a lease, that is. What if it gets stolen or you total it? Bye bye $20k?
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#8
This was the deal I got on a 2016 before going with a 2015. I'll post both.
2016 Ftype R convertible
Extended leather, vision, something else (sorry it's been a month) MSRP 112K
$5K down, $1299 a month+tax, 33 months (total ~ $52K).
7500 miles a year
Buyout 57%
2015 Ftype V8 S convertible
Extended leather, vision pack, red calipers, orange shift paddles, flat bottomed wheel, MSRP $105K
$5K down, $933+tax, 33 months (total ~ $39K)
10000 miles a year
Buyout 59%
If I only had the 2016 lease available I probably would have just purchased pre-owned/demo (V8s can be found in the $70K range these days), but the 2015 deal was too good to pass up. Depending on equipment I've seen deals at $1199 per month on a 2016 with the same terms.
2016 Ftype R convertible
Extended leather, vision, something else (sorry it's been a month) MSRP 112K
$5K down, $1299 a month+tax, 33 months (total ~ $52K).
7500 miles a year
Buyout 57%
2015 Ftype V8 S convertible
Extended leather, vision pack, red calipers, orange shift paddles, flat bottomed wheel, MSRP $105K
$5K down, $933+tax, 33 months (total ~ $39K)
10000 miles a year
Buyout 59%
If I only had the 2016 lease available I probably would have just purchased pre-owned/demo (V8s can be found in the $70K range these days), but the 2015 deal was too good to pass up. Depending on equipment I've seen deals at $1199 per month on a 2016 with the same terms.
Last edited by meefer; 08-10-2015 at 11:37 AM. Reason: added rough totals.
#9
Agreed it is a risk. However, I personally hate having large car payments. Just a personal preference. Most people do not go that route.
#10
Posting actual payments is misleading..too many factors: down payment, state taxes, incentive/rebates, interest rate, etc. Your case is an example. $455 sounds great, but that's with a $20K down and frankly I have no idea what the state tax is in GA. Same reason you really can't base payments off commercials...there is always the fine print you have to read.
From my personal experience with the F Type - the next closest two dealers came at 39k and 41k net for the same exact 3 year lease that I am paying 36k for.
#11
One option is to just take your big down payment and put it in a separate banking account. Then every month just use that account to "offset" the large car payment. Works out the same, except there is no risk in case you total the car. Insurance takes care of the car, you still have money in the bank.
#12
One option is to just take your big down payment and put it in a separate banking account. Then every month just use that account to "offset" the large car payment. Works out the same, except there is no risk in case you total the car. Insurance takes care of the car, you still have money in the bank.
Aside from the option that shift mentions, another good option to lower your lease payments is to put down additional security deposits. I think you're allowed up to a total of 7. Each additional security deposit lowers your money factor (interest rate) by a fairly significant amount. Plus, at the end of the lease, you get the security deposits back. If you look at the money you put into the security deposit as a savings account that pays interest in terms of lower car payments, it pays a better interest rate than anything else out there right now.
Alternatively, instead of going with a lease you can do a "Payment Saver" loan (the most popular being the PedFed offering.) This is basically a balloon payment loan, with the balloon equal to the estimated residual value of the car at the end of the loan period. If you do a 36-month Payment Saver loan, it is equivalent to a 36-month lease, except it is a much lower interest rate and a lower monthly payment. Of course the trade-off is that you pay to pay sales tax up front rather than monthly (if you're in a state tax state) and at the end of the term you either need to pay off the vehicle or sell it. (It does not automatically go back to the bank if you decide not to keep it.) But you can deduct the sales tax from your federal taxes in most states so it balances out somewhat. If you're not in a state with sales taxes then its a much better deal. However, given it is a loan and not a lease, you can put money down without having to worry about losing it.
Last edited by Merlin; 08-10-2015 at 01:16 PM.
#13
It's actually pretty easy to figure out the monthly lease payment. I have a spreadsheet that does that and it's accurate to within $20 of what the leasing company will do. If you want, I can punch in the numbers for you. Just need:
- MSRP
- negotiated price (price if you were to just buy it)
- money factor
- residual
- state tax
- MSRP
- negotiated price (price if you were to just buy it)
- money factor
- residual
- state tax
I notice that you didn't ask how much he was putting down. Do you assume it's zero, or do you have a variable for the down payment in your equation?
#14
Would you mind sharing the equation? I think it would be useful for many of us. I had my own spreadsheet, but I suspect there was something wrong on my equation.
I notice that you didn't ask how much he was putting down. Do you assume it's zero, or do you have a variable for the down payment in your equation?
I notice that you didn't ask how much he was putting down. Do you assume it's zero, or do you have a variable for the down payment in your equation?
You can work backwards to get the final equation....the spreasheet accounts for downpayment, but generlly speaking for leases put down zero (or as little as possible) for the reasons above.
#15
Each security deposit lowers the MF to reduce your overall payments.
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JgaXkr (08-11-2015)
#16
Here you go: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
You can work backwards to get the final equation....the spreasheet accounts for downpayment, but generlly speaking for leases put down zero (or as little as possible) for the reasons above.
You can work backwards to get the final equation....the spreasheet accounts for downpayment, but generlly speaking for leases put down zero (or as little as possible) for the reasons above.
#17
#18
When I leased my car, I asked about multiple security deposits to lower MF and finance guy told me nope. Remmeber BMW, Lexus (Toyota), and Infiniti (Nissan) are their own finance company/bank so they can do pretty much whatever they want. Jaguar Financial is backed by Chase. Chase needs to make money, so I doubt they would let you lower interest rate to next to nothing on a lease.
#19
When I leased my car, I asked about multiple security deposits to lower MF and finance guy told me nope. Remmeber BMW, Lexus (Toyota), and Infiniti (Nissan) are their own finance company/bank so they can do pretty much whatever they want. Jaguar Financial is backed by Chase. Chase needs to make money, so I doubt they would let you lower interest rate to next to nothing on a lease.
#20
Here you go: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
You can work backwards to get the final equation....the spreasheet accounts for downpayment, but generlly speaking for leases put down zero (or as little as possible) for the reasons above.
You can work backwards to get the final equation....the spreasheet accounts for downpayment, but generlly speaking for leases put down zero (or as little as possible) for the reasons above.