2017 F type premium coupe
#1
#2
the 2017s
Depending on when this 2017 was built, you may or may not have the 'flanged' heater/coolant pipes. Do a search on this forum to follow all the threads/posts. Basically, the flanged pipes are seamed and plasti-welded and after a bit start to leak coolant. Coolant drips down on many engine parts, causing damage and corrosion and largely to the supercharger, an expensive and time consuming replacement. Some have said that the pipe replacement can be done w/o removing the SC.. not for me to say, I had my pipe repl. done by dealer under warranty.
The battery MUST be fresh and fully charged. Look at a Ctek battery maintainer for one that does AGM as well as standard batteries, and shows charge progress. These cars have a ton of electronics and it appears from threads, that it reports any number of idiocies that are just due to a weak battery.
If it has the panoramic roof, make sure the shade panel slides back and forth easily. Check the seat heat and steering wheel heat. Depending on mileage, has an upper engine clean been done?
If it's a manual trans. follow the thread "clutch satisfaction' as the MTs ate clutches. I have a gen 4 clutch in now and it is doing well... (over 10,000 miles in 3 years). Make sure the center dash ventilation unit rises and lowers easily and quietly without grinding noises. Also check that the spoiler switch raises and lowers the spoiler when the car is off (for cleaning purposes). If you have LED lights in the underside of the grab handle and underside of door handle they should light up when initially getting into the car. If not, it's a tech dive into a module to activate them.
Above all, require a CarFAx so you can see the owner/maintenance history. Sit in it, drive it, make sure it's comfortable for you.
The battery MUST be fresh and fully charged. Look at a Ctek battery maintainer for one that does AGM as well as standard batteries, and shows charge progress. These cars have a ton of electronics and it appears from threads, that it reports any number of idiocies that are just due to a weak battery.
If it has the panoramic roof, make sure the shade panel slides back and forth easily. Check the seat heat and steering wheel heat. Depending on mileage, has an upper engine clean been done?
If it's a manual trans. follow the thread "clutch satisfaction' as the MTs ate clutches. I have a gen 4 clutch in now and it is doing well... (over 10,000 miles in 3 years). Make sure the center dash ventilation unit rises and lowers easily and quietly without grinding noises. Also check that the spoiler switch raises and lowers the spoiler when the car is off (for cleaning purposes). If you have LED lights in the underside of the grab handle and underside of door handle they should light up when initially getting into the car. If not, it's a tech dive into a module to activate them.
Above all, require a CarFAx so you can see the owner/maintenance history. Sit in it, drive it, make sure it's comfortable for you.
The following 3 users liked this post by Valerie Stabenow:
#3
@SARcat
Valerie hit the key items.
I would only add that you should plan for a refresh / flush of the key fluids if not specifically called out in the vehicle's service history.
link to PDF here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...4/#post2377262
Valerie hit the key items.
I would only add that you should plan for a refresh / flush of the key fluids if not specifically called out in the vehicle's service history.
- engine oil
- engine coolant
- brake fluid
- rear axle oil (probably open diff, GL-5)
- transmission oil (probably the 8-sp ZF?)
link to PDF here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...4/#post2377262
#5
#6
If you are going to consider a 2018 note that not all 2018s are the same. There were changes in the middle of the 2018 model year. Later builds got the redesigned coolant pipes and lane departure warnings. I do not know the exact date of the changes, or if they occurred at the same time. My 2018 is a May 2017 build and has the old style coolant pipes and no lane departure warning.
#7
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#8
Differing exhausts visually is likely to be the difference between a V6 (two in the centre) and a V8 (quad, two each side).
#10
#12
#13
Check out posting #5 in the thread below.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...y-pipe-269072/
It is really easy to check. The flanges on the old style pipes are hard to miss.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...y-pipe-269072/
It is really easy to check. The flanges on the old style pipes are hard to miss.
#14
About the need for a Ctek - I believe that battery tenders are often used to address a symptom and that in most cases are not needed.
I have only had one battery issue in over 5 years of ownership, and that was due to the dealer not exiting their ODBII connection correctly. This caused the car to stay in a mode that drained the battery in 4 days. I noticed the problem when I got an error that said something like 'low battery, drive car" or something like that. It was then dead hours later. I addressed the root problem and have had no battery/electronics issues since. Most of my drives are about 3 miles and at times, I'll go weeks without driving my car and do not have issues with it. I'm not trying to talk you out of running a Ctek, I'm just saying that I don't think they are not as necessary as some believe. Putting it into storage over winter? Sure, that makes good sense. Hooking it up every day? Overkill.
I have only had one battery issue in over 5 years of ownership, and that was due to the dealer not exiting their ODBII connection correctly. This caused the car to stay in a mode that drained the battery in 4 days. I noticed the problem when I got an error that said something like 'low battery, drive car" or something like that. It was then dead hours later. I addressed the root problem and have had no battery/electronics issues since. Most of my drives are about 3 miles and at times, I'll go weeks without driving my car and do not have issues with it. I'm not trying to talk you out of running a Ctek, I'm just saying that I don't think they are not as necessary as some believe. Putting it into storage over winter? Sure, that makes good sense. Hooking it up every day? Overkill.
#16
Check out posting #5 in the thread below.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...y-pipe-269072/
It is really easy to check. The flanges on the old style pipes are hard to miss.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...y-pipe-269072/
It is really easy to check. The flanges on the old style pipes are hard to miss.
I was hopeful when I confirmed that I had the Lane Keep Assist feature, but after my inspection under the hood I discovered that I have the plastic flanged pipes. With my luck, I wouldn't be surprised if I was one of the last to receive the old style coolant pipes before the change to the newer style pipes in my 10/17 manufactured 2018 R model. And don't ever get behind me in line at the grocery store....it will be the slowest one.
#17
Dillweed, hope you are maybe one of the lucky ones whose flanged pipes haven't and perhaps won't leak. (I wouldn't bet on it).. check out EuroAmps offerings for replacement metal pipes and other F type upgrades.
https://euro-amp.com/products/jaguar...charged-engine
Not sure if this is correct for your engine/MY but it's a start.
Even though the dealer replaced mine under warranty, the pipes are still plastic, so I bought the EuroAmp set to put on the shelf just in case. If you order, be sure to check the insides for possible metal shavings, burrs, etc. I seem to remember a post that mentioned metal bits clinging to the insides.
https://euro-amp.com/products/jaguar...charged-engine
Not sure if this is correct for your engine/MY but it's a start.
Even though the dealer replaced mine under warranty, the pipes are still plastic, so I bought the EuroAmp set to put on the shelf just in case. If you order, be sure to check the insides for possible metal shavings, burrs, etc. I seem to remember a post that mentioned metal bits clinging to the insides.
#18
Dillweed, hope you are maybe one of the lucky ones whose flanged pipes haven't and perhaps won't leak. (I wouldn't bet on it).. check out EuroAmps offerings for replacement metal pipes and other F type upgrades.
https://euro-amp.com/products/jaguar...charged-engine
Not sure if this is correct for your engine/MY but it's a start.
Even though the dealer replaced mine under warranty, the pipes are still plastic, so I bought the EuroAmp set to put on the shelf just in case. If you order, be sure to check the insides for possible metal shavings, burrs, etc. I seem to remember a post that mentioned metal bits clinging to the insides.
https://euro-amp.com/products/jaguar...charged-engine
Not sure if this is correct for your engine/MY but it's a start.
Even though the dealer replaced mine under warranty, the pipes are still plastic, so I bought the EuroAmp set to put on the shelf just in case. If you order, be sure to check the insides for possible metal shavings, burrs, etc. I seem to remember a post that mentioned metal bits clinging to the insides.
Thanks, Valerie -- I appreciate the alternative parts recommendation -- hopefully I won't ever need them. From what I have read on this forum, the replacement process of the parts requires the removal of the SC -- I am not that mechanically inclined, so I would have to consult the dealer if the dreaded event arises. At this point, my vehicle's original 5 year warranty has just expired, but I still have the CPO warranty that provides coverage to a lesser degree. I know you had your coolant pipes replaced under warranty, so I'm assuming they had failed during your warranty period -- if my CPO warranty does cover such a failure, is there a way that I can request the dealer replace these known defective items BEFORE they fail while the car is still under the CPO warranty?
Thanks .... Dillweed
#19
I think a lot has to do with the relationship you have with the dealer. Although the pipes and connections may not be actively leaking/dripping and you are monitoring the coolant level in the expansion tank, sometimes just touching one of the pipe connections brings on the failure (i.e. crumbles/shatters due to brittleness). Found this video, but not assessing as to poster's automotive knowledge, skill level or expertise.
then!! found this Jaguar Tech Bulletin...
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...42170-9999.pdf
If the CPO is from that dealer, you can pull up threads and posts from all the coolant issues on this forum and then indicate that you have found coolant leak residue or drips or whatever. Perhaps you could ask that they assess the condition of the connections and the pipes. It is a known issue and maybe it's worded "WHEN can you replace these" (or some such wording) rather than 'can you' or would you. Jaguar knew/knows these pipes are bad and that's why they re-engineered them as solid. Squeaky wheel gets the oil. Like you I would not want to take on this repair myself (but admire greatly those on this forum who have).
then!! found this Jaguar Tech Bulletin...
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...42170-9999.pdf
If the CPO is from that dealer, you can pull up threads and posts from all the coolant issues on this forum and then indicate that you have found coolant leak residue or drips or whatever. Perhaps you could ask that they assess the condition of the connections and the pipes. It is a known issue and maybe it's worded "WHEN can you replace these" (or some such wording) rather than 'can you' or would you. Jaguar knew/knows these pipes are bad and that's why they re-engineered them as solid. Squeaky wheel gets the oil. Like you I would not want to take on this repair myself (but admire greatly those on this forum who have).
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