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I just bought a 2017 premium, are there any electrical issues I should be aware of? IF I leave it parked for 14 days - do I need to trickle charge it? I travel a lot and wondering what to do
at the airports?
Because a neighbour was having some building work, and some personal issues I was having, my car was left unused for over two months and it started on the button when I went to drive it. The battery was fully charged when I parked it up, and I gave it a precautionary full charge after I started using it again, but if you use yours a lot you shouldn't have any problems for 14 days unless your battery is getting tired, which it shouldn't be after 4 years. If you do decide on a "battery maintainer" lots of folk on here use the CTEK MXS 5.0 (I have two!).
We have left ours parked for up to 3 weeks with no consequence. If you are unsure, put it on a maintainer a few hours, before starting.
To answer the question about electrical issues:
While some owners have experience various computer module issues, the majority of 'electrical issues' seem to be the effects of low voltages.
DRIVE YOUR F-TYPE and you won't have problems!
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EDIT: If you have a multimeter, you could use it to check the health of your AGM battery before starting.
@WLS317
You may want to search the forums for the OBDII port reset issues.
If you use a Code Reader, or have a KIWI3 port encoder, then you will have to reset the car's ECU via the battery lead disconnect method.
This is due to the ECU not shutting down the CAN bus after the OBDII device is unplugged, so it will slowly discharge the main battery over a 2 week period.
Note: it may be necessary to do this ECU reset after a dealer visit as well... depending upon if they follow directions or use only approved equipment.
Otherwise, I have no issues with my 2017 Premium with 6-speed.
If you use a Code Reader, or have a KIWI3 port encoder, then you will have to reset the car's ECU via the battery lead disconnect method.
Not necessarily, not all OBD devices cause the issue. My independent has plugged into my OBD port many times and I've never had the battery drain issue, nor when it's been in for a dealer visit. Best to check the hazard switch light has gone out after about 10 minutes of locking the car - if it's still on, then it's time ot do the reset.
The MY2017 Premium that I bought this past Oct, 2020 started presenting me with low battery charge notice on the day I got it. I thought perhaps since it had sat at the selling dealer for a few months that the car just needed to be driven However, the 150 mile trip home did not change that. Since it is still under warranty, an appt at local JLR dealer revealed a "seeping" battery, now if that was a voltage leak or a liquid leak (??? it's AGM) not sure. Whatever. It was replaced under warranty. and no issues since. I did buy and install the CTek MXS 5.0 connecting it to that main battery in the trunk. I stored it from mid December, 2020 until about March, 2021. Again, no issues. The other 'electrical' issue was the lack of the blue lighting that comes from the LED strip under the interior door handle and one that is under the passenger grab handle. That took a bit of time to get straightened out. The cure in this case (and there have been other cures posted in this F forum) was for the tech to drill down into one of the 'modules' and enable it. There was plenty of discussion here on how an owner could know if that door/pass.handle lighting was supposed to be on the car. Since mine has the LED strips, I felt it was a reasonable assumption that it should have the lighting.. and it's a Premium. I also understand how these cars are made, and that JIT inventory didn't always coincide with assembly. My 69 E was supposed to have a Mercury cell for the clock, but it is one that runs off the car battery. It is what it is. congrats on the car, post a photo for us and have fun!
has a lot of useful information, especially if you didn't get an owner's manual with your car.
I've attached a couple of photos from the interior lighting saga.
My warranty runs out at the end of March 2021. From recommendations here, I had the cooling system pressure checked, and opted to have the diff fluid replaced (on me). I'll never make the 50,000 mile warranty end, so in Feb, I plan to have the exhaust actuators rechecked. JLR dealer also suggested the Oxygen sensor. The car will have probably 33,000 miles on it by then. If you bought an F with a manual transmission, you may also want to check the Clutch thread here.
07-31-2021, 02:16 PM
