2017 V6 Supercharged
#1
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Hello everyone,
I am a new member and have joined to get some insights about the f type.
I am currently looking to purchase a 2017 model with very low miles (8500). This is a Hawaii car and clearly was hardly driven. I know these cars are mechanically sound for the most part from the videos I've seen.
This particular vehicle does have vents that are above the engine. This concerns me about the injectors people have mentioned in other threads.
Would purchasing an aftermarket warranty be worth it?
Would love any and all info you can provide!
Thanks!
I am a new member and have joined to get some insights about the f type.
I am currently looking to purchase a 2017 model with very low miles (8500). This is a Hawaii car and clearly was hardly driven. I know these cars are mechanically sound for the most part from the videos I've seen.
This particular vehicle does have vents that are above the engine. This concerns me about the injectors people have mentioned in other threads.
Would purchasing an aftermarket warranty be worth it?
Would love any and all info you can provide!
Thanks!
#2
#4
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After market warranties are suggested as not being worth it, never paying claims, etc. But I bought one when I got my second hand V6 S and it was well worth it. A stuck fuel injector was an exxpensive fixx, and a leaking coolant pipe under the supercharger another. Both paid by the warranty. i suggest though that you make sure you buy a reputabble one.
#6
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If you think you're buying a lemon, get an extended warranty. (Of course, this begs the question of why you bought the car in the first place.) Otherwise, don't.
As suggested above, some people come out ahead because of multiple/expense repairs. But, overall, the profit margins on the warranties are around 50%, so your odds of coming out ahead are about the same as playing the lottery - but with no million dollar prizes.
If you DO decide to get a warranty, heed the advice to check out the warranty company. A warranty that won't pay out isn't helpful, and there are more stories about companies that find ways to not pay claims than saving your bacon (not a covered item, wear item, car modified, abuse, improper maintenance, etc). You might check with your local shop to see who's good to work with.
As suggested above, some people come out ahead because of multiple/expense repairs. But, overall, the profit margins on the warranties are around 50%, so your odds of coming out ahead are about the same as playing the lottery - but with no million dollar prizes.
If you DO decide to get a warranty, heed the advice to check out the warranty company. A warranty that won't pay out isn't helpful, and there are more stories about companies that find ways to not pay claims than saving your bacon (not a covered item, wear item, car modified, abuse, improper maintenance, etc). You might check with your local shop to see who's good to work with.
#7
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Personally, there are a few other factors that I'd consider as part of the "warranty" decision-making process, including:
1) Which island? "Hardly driven" could mean different things. Most Hawaiian islands don't have a lot of roads (re: low mileage), but not all of those roads are in the same condition. Trips down the Hana Highway differ substantially from cruising on Waikiki.
2) Also island-based. Rainfall totals (i.e. chance of water incursion) differ.
2) Homework. PPI results?
3) Moving it off-island after purchase? If so, warranty is a small part of the overall purchase, and probably worth it no matter what condition it's in.
4) Lastly - and I re-emphasis "personally" - if the car is on Maui, it's quite probable the owner needs to sell it ASAP in order to cover costs of other recovery needs. As such, I'd pay the asking price, and perhaps even a bit more, to try to help out. IMHO, warranty is then of secondary concern.
1) Which island? "Hardly driven" could mean different things. Most Hawaiian islands don't have a lot of roads (re: low mileage), but not all of those roads are in the same condition. Trips down the Hana Highway differ substantially from cruising on Waikiki.
2) Also island-based. Rainfall totals (i.e. chance of water incursion) differ.
2) Homework. PPI results?
3) Moving it off-island after purchase? If so, warranty is a small part of the overall purchase, and probably worth it no matter what condition it's in.
4) Lastly - and I re-emphasis "personally" - if the car is on Maui, it's quite probable the owner needs to sell it ASAP in order to cover costs of other recovery needs. As such, I'd pay the asking price, and perhaps even a bit more, to try to help out. IMHO, warranty is then of secondary concern.
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#8
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You can do a thorough search of this forum.. known issues.
1. if it still has the 'flanged' heater pipes. You can tell by the top one in the engine compartment. The SC has to come out to get to the lower pipe... expensive work. These original pipes were seamed and heat glued, They often leaked and the coolant destroyed other engine components.
2. A CarFax is a must... at least to know what, if any services were done to the car or any other reported issues... does the mileage match its history?
3. If you do buy, make sure you get all the fluids replaced, oil (no dipstick BTW)
4. If it still has its OE battery, get a new one. Many posts/threads here about lights that came on and codes, simply due to an underpowered, old battery. Be aware that a new battery may have been on the shelf and will need to be brought to full charge. Many advocate the CTek unit and you can find those threads here as well.
5. From what I've read here, some of the water damage is due to removing the engine cover. Other owners have done this to help dissipate the heat. I live in Wisconsin so really high heat and a prolonged drive don't create the thermal issue that a climate that is 95/100 degrees creates. If I drove on a really warm day for a long drive, I would bring the car into the house garage (10-20 degrees cooler) and open the hood and let it cool that way.
6. As far as warranty, you can also find and read threads here on that topic. Some owners have made out, some not. As mentioned above, it depends on the fine print and what kind of BS they will give you to deny a claim. They are in the business to make money and they don't make money if they have to pay out claims. You may want to take the amount of money the policy costs, put in in a savings account and 'self-insure'. We did that for a wheel damage policy on our 2018 Corvette and we've only used $150 out of it.
7. Get the car on a lift and check the underside, much can be discerned about its life and treatment from what you can see there.
8. Body panel fit was/is an issue on some of these cars, especially at the front. Mine was out of whack and it turned out that the headlight assembly area's panel was missing both its bolts (accessed through wheel well). They hadn't fallen out, there was no physical evidence that there had ever been bolts there.
All this said, It's a wonderful car. I don't ever tire of looking at it or driving it. I also have a 69 E and the F IS the spiritual successor to that car.
1. if it still has the 'flanged' heater pipes. You can tell by the top one in the engine compartment. The SC has to come out to get to the lower pipe... expensive work. These original pipes were seamed and heat glued, They often leaked and the coolant destroyed other engine components.
2. A CarFax is a must... at least to know what, if any services were done to the car or any other reported issues... does the mileage match its history?
3. If you do buy, make sure you get all the fluids replaced, oil (no dipstick BTW)
4. If it still has its OE battery, get a new one. Many posts/threads here about lights that came on and codes, simply due to an underpowered, old battery. Be aware that a new battery may have been on the shelf and will need to be brought to full charge. Many advocate the CTek unit and you can find those threads here as well.
5. From what I've read here, some of the water damage is due to removing the engine cover. Other owners have done this to help dissipate the heat. I live in Wisconsin so really high heat and a prolonged drive don't create the thermal issue that a climate that is 95/100 degrees creates. If I drove on a really warm day for a long drive, I would bring the car into the house garage (10-20 degrees cooler) and open the hood and let it cool that way.
6. As far as warranty, you can also find and read threads here on that topic. Some owners have made out, some not. As mentioned above, it depends on the fine print and what kind of BS they will give you to deny a claim. They are in the business to make money and they don't make money if they have to pay out claims. You may want to take the amount of money the policy costs, put in in a savings account and 'self-insure'. We did that for a wheel damage policy on our 2018 Corvette and we've only used $150 out of it.
7. Get the car on a lift and check the underside, much can be discerned about its life and treatment from what you can see there.
8. Body panel fit was/is an issue on some of these cars, especially at the front. Mine was out of whack and it turned out that the headlight assembly area's panel was missing both its bolts (accessed through wheel well). They hadn't fallen out, there was no physical evidence that there had ever been bolts there.
All this said, It's a wonderful car. I don't ever tire of looking at it or driving it. I also have a 69 E and the F IS the spiritual successor to that car.
#10
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I've looked for the papers, but because my warranty (which was for 2 years) has now expired, I don't seem to have kept them and I can't remember their name.
I don't disagree with above comments, but when buying you can't be really sure of what you're getting, so to me the comparatively small cost of a warranty compared to the many thousands of a major failure gave me peace of mind. I'd buy a .warranty again if I changed my car, but research the company online for feedback about how reliable they are. If you buy your car from a dealer, they should have knowledge of which warranty companies pay out properly.
I don't disagree with above comments, but when buying you can't be really sure of what you're getting, so to me the comparatively small cost of a warranty compared to the many thousands of a major failure gave me peace of mind. I'd buy a .warranty again if I changed my car, but research the company online for feedback about how reliable they are. If you buy your car from a dealer, they should have knowledge of which warranty companies pay out properly.
#11
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Aftermarket warranties aren't warranties, they're insurance. A true warranty is a manufacturer standing behind their product and providing repairs or replacement free of charge, an aftermarket warranty is a third party insurance policy that you pay into once and it pays out if you have a mechanical failure. And, just like insurance, it's a massive rip off until you need it then suddenly it's worth every penny 😂
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