I had the same failure of blind spot and cross traffic. Unfortunately my MY21 R Conv has been in the shop quite a bit after 6 months and 8k miles. They had it about a week, had to replace some modules and now it's back to working. Seems like they have quality issues on it.

As for fuse 15 I'm going to give it a shot. I miss the pops and growls that my MY17 had. I do a lot of highway driving though, so will see if it's just too much

 

Definitely a fuse. Standard 10 amp flat fuse.

 

Hopefully I'm not derailing cgo's thread, but care to share what other issues you've had? You've said it's been in the shop "quite a bit." Is there more than just the BSM issue?

 

I went for a drive yesterday on the same section of highway that I did on Sunday with the fuse removed. In Dynamic mode and with the transmission in Sport it is not as loud as it was without the fuse in place.
I did not get the loud crackles and pops at as low as 2200-2300 RPM's when backing off the throttle as I did without the fuse either, the point where that phenomenon occurred was back up in the low 3000 RPM range.

In fact I would say that there is no difference in exhaust characteristics in my 2021 model between driving the car with the valves open by the console switch and driving the car in the Dynamic mode which opens the valves as part of the programming. But pulling the fuse is a whole different ball game. Maybe the programming on the newer models doesn't open the valves as far as they are with no fuse ?

 

Hey Dwight, too funny! I read this thread yesterday and went right out and pulled #15 on my '22 F-Type as well and could NOT believe the difference. Having never owned an earlier model F-Type, I simply had no idea how GREAT those growls, pops, and crackles were until I pulled that fuse. Naturally, I had heard some of that with the open valve button on and hitting the 3K-4K range on the tach, but Fuse #15 completely changed sheer enjoyment factor by a magnitude.

 

Absolutely a beast with the fuse pulled. Best free and easy mod ever! I usually put aftermarket exhaust on all my previous V8 cars, but no need here. Now I know why all the car reviews of previous MYs questioned how this was legal... lol Glad you guys enjoy it as much as I do. I wouldnt have known about this without this Jag forum.

 

will definitely test this out once I get my steering wheel back. but I know when I put my car (2015 R) into dynamic immediately after start up, it stays loud all the time.

 

Keep in mind that they neutered the sound in the 2021/22 models. This fuse pulling is way more noticeable for those of us with the new version. Without the fuse pulled, no more pops and snaps below 3500 RPMs and way less raucous. After pulling the fuse, snaps and pops all over the place. Seems to me the way they neutered it was to keep the valves closed more often even in dynamic.

 

Well, after 150 miles and several drives, the BSM and rear cross traffic stopped working again. I know when it happens immediately on startup because the driver BSM alert in the mirror blinks several times, but nothing on the right side. Then it defaults to off, unavailable. Inreally thought it was the fuse but I put a new one in and still nothing. Something is lose on one of the sensor packs. I located both the right and left one. The driver side has a plug with a messy wire bundle. The passenger side one has a very tightly wrapped bundle. Must have been a new guy on the assembly line that day. Uggghhhh!!!

 

I was playing around with a design for a simple on/off circuit that can be used to replace the fuse in position 15 or 43 and allow control from the cabin. I think this could be assembled for around $30-$35. Looking under the dash, there is a big cluster of wires behind the drivers side fuse block that passes through the firewall. I think the wire for the switch could be fished through there and over to the fuse box under the hood where fuse position 15 is now located. The switch could be zip tied up under the dash where it could be easily reached or if you wanted to get fancy you could snap it into a mounting panel which only costs a couple of bucks and mount that under the dash too.

There must not be much current running through the circuit if it only uses a 5 amp fuse, but I am unsure what gauge wire to use that would be thin enough to poke through the firewall but heavy enough to handle the current with plenty of margin of safety. Any suggestions from those here who are knowledgeable in auto electronics ?

The components can be sourced from online places like Digikey or Mouser here in the US or just about any electronics suppliers. Nothing particularly unusual about the parts. What do you guys think ? Any danger of frying the electronics in the car ?

 

theres a member on here who came up with a nice solution that uses an ebay remote key fob controller or one of the home link buttons. It's a very detailed DIY post with photos. Looks really good.

 

Yes, what you've drawn is the same as my setup, except the wireless relay replaces your switch. The relay is latching, so it remembers its state between ignition cycles, just like your switch.

From a practical standpoint, the length of the wire could be factored into the wire gauge. 16 gauge is fine for 5A. Looks to me like 18GA was used with my relay, though the wires are short. 20GA is likely OK if the wire length is short. You should also pay some attention to the temperature rating of the insulation of the wire.

 

Is this the relay circuit you are referring to that was done by member Jag Bass and called the Claws Out Mod ?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...e-43-a-213500/
See Post # 17

That looks like a very reasonably priced mod and I like the idea of a Homelink button being able to control it.

 

was able to remove fuse 43 and test this out...made no difference in my car that I could notice. for me and my car, the only purpose of doing this is to have loud exhaust in the standard driving mode. since I always put it in dynamic mode anyway, I put the fuse back in.

 

Is Fuse #43 listed as "Active Exhaust" in the manual for your MY?

 

It should be - F15 in later MYs.

 

The engineering/design of these exhaust valves is relatively simple...at rest, when the engine is off, they are wide open. They are designed to be spring loaded "open", period. The engine at start will have the valves remain open until the valving starts to close them. Pounding on the accelerator, running in dynamic, normal or any mode, modulates the valving and it will be 100% open during some hard acceleration and RPM, partially open at lower RPM and essentially closed at "no load" conditions (cruising down the road at 35mph, or 50mph, etc., in high gear, for example). Pulling that #15 fuse neutralizes that valving (it can not function), so the baffle stays wide open (spring loaded open) at all times. That can never happen if that valving is functioning....that baffle just keeps flipping around in your exhaust pipe, regardless of the drive mode.

 

I've been chasing this exact observation...

But what if it's a V8, but *not* an R?

I have a 2022 P450 AWD (R-dynamic)-- 444hp, not the 575.

I'm going to pull the F15 fuse and see if I can get the burbles, snaps, and pops the older models did. I'm really hoping so. Will report back for 2022 P450 owners

 

Some on here have reported that the exhaust needs to be "run in" and gets better with a few thousand miles on.

 

Im going to second this. I removed F15 in my 2022 P450 R-Dynamic and it's definitely louder, gets more crackles, pops, etc.

However, I think the simulated exhaust from the sound system is disabled with the removal of the fuse. The exhaust sounds less....deep. Still reasonably deep, but Cgo's charactarization of "raucous" is apt. There's a little less baritone (I suspect due to the Meridian system not injecting deep baritone sound anymore), but more overall volume and raspy growl with the pops and burbles when you're on your way down from 3500 rpm.