Bought my 2016 F-Type R Coupe with about 57K miles but due to an (unknown to me) issue the warranty that would have expired, was extended by the dealer. This was fortunate because the PPI at the JLR dealer revealed some major problems that would have cost a fortune to fix but JLR honored the warranty and fixed everything. Now, I've got 62K miles on the car and it seems to be in excellent running condition. My question is this, what 60K service(s) do I need to perform? I do most of the normal maintenance work myself, brakes, oil changes, etc., and I can also do the front/rear differential and transmission fluid/filter as well if it's needed. But is it needed? I've seen videos that say yes and no. I have no way of knowing how this car was driven before my ownership, I just know that it's impossible to drive slowly whenever there's a chance to open it up. So, based on 62K miles of at least "spirited" driving, should I address the front/rear diffs and transmission? Thanks for any thoughts and experiences.

 

For my MY18 R AWD:

Every 3 years: transfer box
Every 4 years: rear locking diff
Every 9 years: front diff

I've seen suggestions from ZF that the tansmission oil should be changed at about 60k, though I think Jaguar list it on their 9 year service schedule (again for my MY18).

 

This can help, but not a universal guide as the rear diff, transmission, transfer case, front diff and supercharger oil are not specifically mentioned, but should also be regularly changed.

 

Thanks guys for your responses. Now I'm going to bother you again :-)

Since it appears that I'll be changing the differential fluid(s) front and rear, can you provide the best source and spec for the oil? Also, I will be doing the transmission fluid and filter so what brand and spec are F-type R owners recommending?

Thanks again.

 

Loaded question, but I will tell you my preferences:

First check out FCP Euro, they have a good selection for our platform: Jaguar F-Type Parts | FCP Euro

Oil = Liqui Moly Top Tec 6600 series 0W-20 and any decent filter (Mahle makes a good one)
I use the Jag Spec BOT 720 for the rear diff
Transfer case = Shell TF0870 (Stec name brand is the same as Shell)
Front Diff - Liqui Moly GL4/5 75W/90
Transmission = ZF Lifeguard Fluid 8
FCP sells a trans filter too.

 

Since you found all these issues that were taken care of under warranty, it seems likely to me, that being so close to the 60K miles, the dealer may have done the 60K maintenance while doing the rest of the work.

Was the '16 under the same (free ?) maintenance program as later models ?

Did you ask them if they did ? If not, why not ask now ? It should be in their computers, no ?

Also, you sound like you know what you're doing. Aren't there some of these items that you can check visually yourself ? Fluids ? Brake pads ? Rotors ?

 

skizot

Great. This is really helpful, I'll see about getting some of this ordered.

 

F-Type Wannabe - Thanks for your comments!

Here's the scoop. During the PPI it was discovered (among other things) that there was a blown head gasket. This was an engine out repair and so naturally, they changed the engine oil in the process. Even though it was covered %100 by JLR they gave me a complete no-charge invoice that listed every nut and bolt that they replaced or serviced. I asked about replacing the spark plugs while they were at it but they said it wasn't part of the repairs so it was going to be a separate (paid by me) quote which I declined due to the crazy price. I have always done this sort of job on every car I own. And full disclosure, I was feeling lucky that all this engine work was free so I didn't want to push it nor had I thought about the 60K service, my bad. So the facts are these, they did not do the 60K maintenance, and as you probably know, the transmission fluid change isn't recommended by JLR at 60K miles anyway. Front brakes are ready for new pads and rotors and since I have a quick jack in my garage I'll tackle that as well.

 

Just a tip for oil change DIYers. I used the Mityvac (MV7300) fluid evacuator to do my oil change and it worked flawlessly. No need to hassle with jacking up the car. Go Jag!

 

100% agree, At 30k miles, I went ahead and changed the oil pan fill plug and washer (to ensure no issues in the future), however otherwise oil changes are the easiest on this car, than any other car I've owned. Makes up for the stupid digital read out and process to get oil level.

 

Well after contacting FCP Euro about ZF xmission filters and fluid, here's what they had to say.

"Thanks for contacting FCP Euro!

I am happy to look into this for you. I do apologize as it does not appear that we have the fluid or the filter available for your vehicle at this time."

If anyone knows a source, please post. Thanks.

 

Interesting, they used to. The fluid can be found everywhere though:ZF® - LifeGuardFluid 8™ Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid - Search (bing.com)

The filter is also equally available everywhere. Shop around, but here you go: Jaguar F-type Transmission Filter - Search (bing.com)

 

Yes, I agree that the fluid is easily available but my real concern is the filter/pan. The aftermarket pans use replaceable filters while the OEM is a filter/pan assembly and can only be bought from JLR as a single unit (I think). If the aftermarket is compatible, it would be helpful to know the specific part numbers other DIY guys have used.

 

Factory PN: JDE36541 and a good place to buy it if you want to spend the $$$ however, ZF is who makes this, not JLR, so plenty of compatible options that meet specifications. Honestly most people might only replace this transmission pan/filter once in their ownership, so I would not be too worried about going 3rd party or not. Here is a cheap option and a more reputable option. If you want the original ZF version, better to find one from a BMW dealership, use the same referenced part number and is about half the price.

Cheap Dorman Option: Transmission Oil Pan | 265-853 | Transmission Pan With Drain Plug, Gasket And Bolts | Dorman Products

RAYBESTOS POWERTRAIN 515769 (rockauto.com)

 

I was able to source the Dorman transmission pan and the separate (not included with the pan) filter from NAPA, and the Lifeguard 8 transmission fluid came from AutohausAZ. So, I figured that before I started the fluid change maintenance, I'd check to see if my iCarsoft OBDII reader had a function to read the transmission temperature in real-time and fortunately, it does. Unfortunately, I forgot that when you use an OBDII reader on the F-Type, you MUST disconnect the battery afterward or the battery will drain due to some kind of parasitic power draw that happens after the OBDII reader is disconnected. This happened before and the first sign (that I noticed) that something was wrong occurred when the remote hatchback stopped operating. This is really BS! Has JLR released any software updates to resolve this?

 

They did release a software update to address this issue. I had it installed on mine (unbeknownst to me). Thankfully the did as I asked last time it was at the dealer and they did not update any other emissions software. My understanding is the update was actually for the PCM (power control module) in case a dealer says they don't know. Since this was done, I have had LESS problems with the ODB handshaking that causes hibernation to not work, but it also does depend on the device you are plugging in. Many devices are designed to know how to properly disconnect to avoid this issue. (i.e. VAP tuners), but others like the ODB readers in question do not. Just my experience. This experience is all over the place for owners.

 

Something doesn't make sense here, I have used my iCarsoft code reader on my F-Type literally dozens of times and never once had a battery problem.
An iCarsoft i930 for the first 2 or 3 years and then an iCarsoft LR V2.0 for the last 4 or so years.
I always fully back out of the iCarsoft, back to the home screen, before I pull the OBD2 plug out, maybe that is the trick?

 

Hi,
can you reset the Oil Service with your iCarsoft Reader? I have a problem with that, but it runs with the reset for
the Service Interval, but not the Oil Service...
Have you any feedback for me?
Thank you, Andi

 

It's only a "MUST" with some readers and some techs who disconnect badly.

 

Well, to be honest, I don't remember if I backed all the way out of the menu on my iCarsoft OBDII tool but next time I will make sure I do. The first time the battery drained happened when I had my car inspected and left it sitting for a few days so I guess they do not do a proper disconnect. Nice to know there is a software fix but I am hesitant to bring it to the dealer and take the chance that other software might be altered as well. Finally, I have to give props to #TheRocks for all the great DIY videos that I found on this forum to do the 60K maintenance tasks myself, and I think the only thing I can add is a composite parts cost breakdown. I was a little nervous with some of the fluid choices so I defaulted to OEM and overpaid. Also, some may think that I am doing a few things that aren't necessarily part of the 60K milestone but I figured that while it's up on the quick jack, I may as well get it done. Finally, my choice of brake components was on the low side (OEM quality) so I hope I don't regret that.

Front Brake Kit (rotors and pads) $400
Rear Brake Kit (rotors and pads) $200
Engine Oil and Filter 0W/20 $70
Transmission fluid and Filter and Pan $350
Front and rear Differential Fluid OEM $200
Transfer Case Fluid OEM $120
Spark Plugs (Iridium) $80
Cabin Filter and Dual Air Filters $60
Windshield Wiper Blades $45

Total $1525