@Jag Bass could you also send me the pics? I will DM you my email. I have also attempted your mod and see an odd result - when fully wired and connected to the fuse block, I hit the remote and the relay clicks on then clicks off, as if it's not in latching mode. But when I pull the fuse tap from the fuse block and feed 12v in to it manually, it behaves properly in latching mode. I can send you pics and schematics of what I did, but hesitate to ask you to troubleshoot my wiring until I can see fully how you've done it.

Here's facts so far:

• Wired up the eMylo off the car, verified that both circuits are in latching mode and both buttons cause the proper connections to happen (both NO and NC)
• Have pulled the fuse and hear the glorious roar, so know that pulling the fuse works in my MY
• Full circuit works as expected when fuse tap is not connected to fuse block (verified this by connecting ohmmeter to the fuse tap's two male connectors and pressing the remote button on and off with power fed to the circuit )
• When circuit is attached to fuse block and I press the remote button, the relay opens the circuit then closes it about a second later

Thanks.

 

On my 2024 coupe, the valves must be in the open position before fuse 15 is pulled. Otherwise pulling the fuse does not have the slightest effect. So if the emylo has the vehicle start up in normal (valves closed) mode it will remain that way regardless of what buttons are pressed.

 

This is correct (and important) for all '22 and newer F-Types with the electronic exhaust valves. Easiest way to ensure they are open is to press the exhaust button at idle in Park. Regardless of mode, they will open at idle when the button is pressed. You can then activate the relay to pull the fuse. If you activate the relay to pull the fuse while the valves are closed, they will stay closed regardless of mode or RPM (and in theory can be damaging to the engine at sustained higher RPMs from excessive backpressure). This is a non-issue for the older cars because they default to open and pulling the fuse keeps the vacuum pressure from pulling them closed, so you can't accidentally 'trap' them in the closed position. If the fuse is pulled when the vacuum valves are closed, vacuum pressure is immediately lost and the valves open.

 

Sounds like your almost there, I was not able to get pics yet for the install. I am not really sure what is going on with your setup there if you selected the latching mode. Also the emylo should be set to be normally closed once the emylo receives power. It can be set so when pressing the remote button sends it normally open which disconnects the fuse. When you press the button again or the emylo loses power it should goes back to normally closed by default.

 

Thanks for the response @Jag Bass .

@Thunder Dump and @alchemystic 's posts suggest maybe something else is going on with my model year.

 

I have a different wireless relay than you, but it took me a while to find a good ground in the vicinity of the fuse box under the passenger floor (where F43 is, I don’t know where F15 is.) The first stud I used I had incorrectly measured as being grounded.

 

F15 is in the engine bay fuse box.

 

Finally got a chance to get back to this....

Turns out I did properly wire the circuit with the eMylo. My earlier mention of it clicking on and off while connected to my multimeter was an id10t error.

What has me scratching my head on this is that when I manually pulled the fuse and put it in my console I was able to get the fun roar all the time. So the fuse was not in circuit at startup. Am I just not getting what you are saying?

Thanks - and I did verify all this with my setup while idling in my garage - haven't taken her out on the road yet though.

So the pre-flight protocol is:

1. Start the car
2. Press the active exhaust button on the console to activate whatever circuitry and software that Jaguar put in there
3. Click the eMylo remote to pull the fuse for the mostly continual louder sound.

I do have a concern about the section I highlighted above. If I (or my son when he borrows my car) do things in the wrong order, potentially not a good situation (especially the way my son drives!). So I guess I now have to decide whether to keep it on the car or take it off. Regardless, I'll post some of the pics I took and the schematic I drew for those that might want to try this on the '22 on up.

Thanks all for assisting in the troubleshooting.

 

Ok, I totally missed the fact that your active exhaust system is not the vacuum controlled type and didn't realize they are controlled differently than the older system.

 

The highlighted section is more of a theoretical concern than an actual one, especially if the car is only driven on the street (even if driven aggressively). Restricting exhaust flow at sustained high RPM could potentially harm some upstream components in the engine due to the increased backpressure for which the system was not designed. I would imagine you would have to be really flogging it for an extended period of time before this became truly detrimental. It's mentioned in the service manual that the engine should not be run at sustained high RPM with the valves closed, so it's just prudent advice.

However, if you wire in the eMylo as Jag Bass has instructed, the device defaults to normally closed on power-up, which means the active exhaust circuitry behaves exactly as the factory design at each ignition start. So as long as he just drives the car as intended and leaves the eMylo alone, he couldn't accidentally do anything adverse since it's all factory behavior.

The good news is, if you accidentally activate the Claws Out mod when the valves are closed, a simple press of the button turns off the relay and puts it right back to factory operation. You have to be mindful of the valves' state (open vs closed) only when activating the relay to pull the fuse (if they're open they stay open, and if they're closed they stay closed). When you want to restore factory operation, you can 'reinstall' the fuse at any time in any state and it will revert to normal operation.

As for your steps above, there is one caveat to the steps you listed:

1. Start the car
2. Press the active exhaust button on the console once the engine RPM drops to a normal idle to activate whatever circuitry and software that Jaguar put in there
3. Click the eMylo remote to pull the fuse for the mostly continual louder sound.

In a cold start, the valves default to starting in the open position. The engine starts with a flare, then within 5 seconds the valves close (to presumably cut down on the cold start noise). On the cars with electronic valves, they will stay closed even if the active exhaust button or Dynamic Mode is engaged until the cold RPM idle speed drops (usually takes about 30 seconds or so on the V8s). So if you did the step 2 above but didn't wait for the RPM to drop, the valves would still be closed and remain closed once you click the eMylo remote.

There are two rather foolproof times to activate the eMylo and guarantee the fuse is 'pulled' when the valves are in the open state:

1. On cold start before cranking the engine. This is my preferred method because it also gives you the cold start in all its unmuted glorious cacophony. Press the start button with your foot off the brake to engage Accessory Mode, click the eMylo remote and wait 1-2 seconds to ensure engagement, then press the start button a second time with your foot on the brake to start the engine. Your fuse is pulled for the duration of that ignition cycle. You can restore it at any time during the drive.
2. At warm idle in Park with either the Active Exhaust button or Dynamic Mode activated. The valves are always open under either of these conditions, but only at idle. Once you start to pull away the valves close until the RPM is over 2500 (on the V8s) regardless of mode. So on the '22+ cars with the electronic valves, even crawling at 5mph in Dynamic Mode with the Active Exhaust turned on, the valves are still closed so if you switch it then you're going to keep them closed. Just be sure to pull the fuse with either switch activated and at idle and it will be pulled for the duration of that ignition cycle. You can restore it at any time during the drive.

Basically, the car needs to be stationary to pull the fuse to play it safe. You risk disabling them in their closed state if you activate the eMylo while the car is in motion unless you're at high RPM (or in Sport Mode).

I've got the third button on my Homelink paired to the eMylo remote, per Jag Bass' recommendation, so there's no remote to lose and no fumbling with a second device. Just reach up and press the mirror--very slick. I've also got the VAP Valvetronic exhaust so when the fuse is pulled you *really* know it.

 

One other cool thing you could do with an eMylo setup is using it as an anti theft security feature say on the fuel pump fuse and you could assign that eMylo to the 2nd homelink button if it is available.

 

Thanks for taking the time to write all this up Matt. Very helpful!

Oh yea - that's definitely the plan. I'll let folks think I am a hacker extraordinaire.

 

Here are some pics from my install. Going chronologically backwards...

Here is the final look on my '22. The eMylo is mounted in the engine compartment between the driver's side firewall and the fuse box:


This pic shows the wiring detail:


There are unused threaded holes (M6 - 1.0) already there in the engine compartment, so I used one to mount the eMylo base:


Here's a schematic I drew to help me understand how it all works. Colors are for the wires I happened to have on hand. The 3a fuse was the smallest I had laying around, you could probably go way smaller since it's only powering the eMylo. The 5a is the original fuse for the exhaust system.

 

Thanks to Matt for the detailed description of correct procedures for those of us with electronic exhaust valves and to LMS for the install photos and wiring schematic.

 

Hi Jag Bass - I am going to attempt this mod at the weekend. What does latching mode mean and I assume you have to program this once connected to the car? Thanks in advance.

 

FWIW, my eMylo came with the circuits preconfigured to already be in latching mode.

 

thank you - struggling to find eMylo in the UK but there are plenty of alternatives on Amazon.

 

Taking delivery tomorrow as I trade in my 2021 P300 @23,000 miles and move up to a 2023 P450, 8,500 miles.

BIG THANKS to JAG BASS - just ordered the components for his CLAWS OUT system.

This Forum rocks !

Thanks Y'all !

BEST !

RWS

 

all done, but likely the remote is stuck in the wrong mode, as results are inconsistent .

WAY TOO HOT here is SW FL today to go any further.

Put the burned out fuse back in #15 for now.

BEST !

RWS

 

SPECIAL THANKS TO JAG BASS, THUNDERDUMP & LMS FOR ALL THE DETAIL ON THIS GREAT MOD !

For those with a 2023 P450, it takes 16 seconds for the circuit to reset after turning off the engine (timed it with a test light)

Also, Thunderdump's description above regarding the electrically operated systems is spot on and requires close attention - one cannot simply activate the remote while driving down the road at 20 mph.

GREAT MOD - THANKS AGAIN !

BEST !

RWS