Was it decided what fuse it was on an F-Pace SVR in the end?

 

Sorry, Wenganatty, this is the F-type forum. A few of us looked in the F-pace Owner’s Handbook for you, but it looks to me like the standard F-pace doesn’t have active exhaust. You’ll have to track down SVR docs.

 

Pulled the fuse F15....your'e correct.

More pops, crackles, and volume.

Meridian seems to have stopped the simulated deep exhaust sound in the cabin, though...I'm thinking that might've been tied to the F15 fuse.

 

Hey, there I own a 2018 R- I was very excited to get the extra loudness without having to invest in a new exhaust. I was quite happy when I popped off the F15 fuse.. indeed louder and sounded more pure and less restricted. The crackles came on very easily with a slight lift on the gas pedal. The problem is however this screwed me up on the back end/computer. I live in NY and every year we need to get inspections. Taking out fuse 15 caused the emissions computer to no longer be able to connect to my onboard. It would detect voltage but wouldn't connect. Once unplugging the computer all sorts of faults came on IE e brake/tranny faults etc. I would need to shut the entire car off arm the alarm then disarm it to be able to drive it again however the CEL is then prevalent. I went to 2 different shops and the same result happened. If you live in a location that has these tests then taking out the fuse may not be a good idea.

 

I live in MA and we have annual safety and emission inspections as well (including connecting through the OBD II port). I have gone through multiple emissions inspections with the F15 fuse pulled without issue. The circuit only controls the valves and nothing else, so it is unlikely the two are related. The fact that you have numerous other faults, including issues with the alarm, points to what is very common on these cars--a battery issue. My guess is you have the original battery still in it and there is probably a low voltage situation going on (even if it is a replacement battery, but especially if it is the original battery). Try charging the battery overnight after clearing the CEL and see if that resolves it. A battery tender on these cars is a must-have.

 

Hey Matt thanks for the insight. Hmm, I never thought about that, perhaps it is time to change out my battery (original). I will definitely give the tender a go as well. BTW is there a specific type of battery you would recommend? Better than OEM, Optima? Thanks!

 

Also check that the light in the hazard switch goes out about 15 minutes after locking the car - if it stays on, you'll need to do a battery reset to fix the modules that aren't shutting down and will drain the battery in a few days.

 

No matter whose battery you buy, wisdom here is to charge it with a battery maintainer (CTEK, etc) BEFORE installation.

Often, replacement batteries come to you in a somewhat depleted state...



If you have a voltmeter, here are the numbers to achieve: