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This is great information. Can you provide any details on the reservoir you added? Also, any additional photos of the installation would be very helpful.
This reservoir works well. It has a port on the bottom to attach the #7 hose to and then you plug one of the upper ports. The other upper port you vent. I added a check valve at the end so nothing sloshes out.
No more.pics sorry. You don't have to take the bumper off for this job and I did it on jackstands so really hard to get decent pics from 12" away. If you or anyone wants to do this, feel free to pm me. It's really a simple job.
This reservoir works well. It has a port on the bottom to attach the #7 hose to and then you plug one of the upper ports. The other upper port you vent.
No more.pics sorry. You don't have to take the bumper off for this job and I did it on jackstands so really hard to get decent pics from 12" away. If you or anyone wants to do this, feel free to pm me. It's really a simple job.
Thanks for the reservoir suggestion. Any chance you could get a photo of the installed reservoir to show how you packaged it? After dealing with heat soak at the drag strip, this is definitely something on my radar for a future mod. Ideally, I'd like to separate the IC coolant system from the engine system as you did, then find a way to power the fan and IC water pump without the engine running to cool down the AWICs between passes or track sessions. That big lump of aluminum on top of the engine tends to stay warm for a long time after some hard running.
@Doc Oc - Thanks for posting that info. I was just considering decoupling the cooling systems of the SC and engine, and had even thought about it a few years ago, but I didn't drive my car for a long time, so never had the opportunity. But, I also remember that I wasn't completely sold on the idea. Do you have any data to support your decision, either before or after; i.e. are you still happy you did it, any downsides, etc.? I noticed that @Ricky5.0s/c (now known as BoostedRicky on YouTube) had played around with a few different ideas for it, which sound similar to what you did:
I'm not sure whether I'll decouple the systems yet, but I'm definitely adding the additional Heat Exchanger (in addition to adding a second Aux Rad, Allisport HE, and meth). I mocked up a diagram to plumb in my new HE in the way I understood that @Terrance39 did his, here (keep in mind that this is for my XFR):
This diagram might also help. I modified some of the pix @DeviLSh posted:
@Guardian - It's funny because the GPI Racing heat exchanger is actually the same one on which I was about to pull the trigger. While I can't attest firsthand to its performance, durability, etc., I did a bunch of research a few months ago and found that GPI Racing actually makes some ICs/HEs which are heavily used in motocross and enjoy a great reputation. Apparently, they're very high-performing and very durable to the rigors found in motocross racing, so I feel comfortable putting into my protected car. Plus, I liked the dimensions and dual pass structure, which put the inlet and outlet on the same side for easier hookup, as well as the extremely affordable price. So, if it fails, it didn't cost much and would be extremely easy to replace. I actually started putting together an Excel spreadsheet to help me make my decision, as seen below (note: the GPI Racing HE is only $180 without the included fans - it's $210 with the fans... I was going to go fan-less, but I still included the fan price in the Excel spreadsheet, as I put it together many months ago, when I wasn't sure):
Out of sheer intellectual curiosity, if nothing else, I'd really love to get any actual "data-driven" feedback on any of these mods, if anyone has any (I own a data science company, so it kind of rules my life - Ha-ha!). I understand that collecting data on this kind of stuff isn't always easy, and I won't even be able to do any "before and after" analysis on my own car, since it's been completely torn apart for a year and not really driven for 3 years before that, so I'm just doing all of the work at once (after fixing some other wear-related issues). Regardless, I'll still forge ahead with my plans, so thanks again to everybody contributing on this forum!!!
Side note: I've got a lot of diagrams I've made for a lot of the work I'm doing, including more for the XFR cooling system (almost exactly the same as the F-Type 5.0SC), so if they're helpful to everyone, I'm happy to post more.
Thanks for the reservoir suggestion. Any chance you could get a photo of the installed reservoir to show how you packaged it? After dealing with heat soak at the drag strip, this is definitely something on my radar for a future mod. Ideally, I'd like to separate the IC coolant system from the engine system as you did, then find a way to power the fan and IC water pump without the engine running to cool down the AWICs between passes or track sessions. That big lump of aluminum on top of the engine tends to stay warm for a long time after some hard running.
Sorry man I was in a rush to bundle it up and test it before leaving for a mountain trip Sunday so not much time to document it. I'll see what I can get for you when we get home tomorrow.
Good news is, the way the pump wires up does exactly what you want. It starts running with key on, not when the motor starts so put a battery booster on and let it run for awhile and you should be set. Not sure on the fan unfortunately. You will also have to swap the 10 amp pump fuse to a 20-25 amp or it'll pop....with the cwa150 that is. Not sure on others.
Got a kit just laying around anyway and figure a simple momentary switch controlling a purge solenoid to that bad boy will do wonders....if it doesn't freeze. Need to do a little research.
Got a kit just laying around anyway and figure a simple momentary switch controlling a purge solenoid to that bad boy will do wonders....if it doesn't freeze. Need to do a little research.
Not as effective as putting the nitrous in the intake, but a lot easier and safer.😁 Definitely worth investigating. I still want to find out what the engine tuning algorithm uses to determine when it should pull timing and add fuel to cool the Cats. I want to be sure the ECU actually recognizes and respects the changes being made to drop IATs. From what I have read on here, it is based on a calculation and I'm not clear what all it takes into account.
Not as effective as putting the nitrous in the intake, but a lot easier and safer.😁 Definitely worth investigating. I still want to find out what the engine tuning algorithm uses to determine when it should pull timing and add fuel to cool the Cats. I want to be sure the ECU actually recognizes and respects the changes being made to drop IATs. From what I have read on here, it is based on a calculation and I'm not clear what all it takes into account.
Don't think I haven't thought about it lol.
Finally got a chance to log iat2 today, albeit for a short while. Normal cruising seems to be about 15-25 deg above iat1. When you get on it temps rise very quickly and were at 165 by the end of a third gear pull. Ambient was 77. Good news is within 5 seconds temps were already back below 100. I have nothing to compare to so can't make any judgements but it was nice to see how fast temps drop. Based on this I think chilling the HX with nitrous or c02 will definitely be beneficial.
Regarding your questions about when retard begins, I am going to dig into the ECU file tomorrow with HP tuners and see what I can find. I haven't been able to find my mpiv2 for weeks and you can't even open the ECU file without it attached so maybe I can get some info now that it turned up. The parameters for JLR aren't well defined with HPT so I'm not real hopeful but I'll post anything that may be pertinent.
Have you considered increasing the volume of the cooling system & installing a separate reservoir? When I had my XKR with a Twin Screw supercharger it made quite a difference. If you truly want to control the coolant temp install a Killer Chiller. You can IAT2 to be very close to ambient.
Have you considered increasing the volume of the cooling system & installing a separate reservoir? When I had my XKR with a Twin Screw supercharger it made quite a difference. If you truly want to control the coolant temp install a Killer Chiller. You can IAT2 to be very close to ambient.
I would love to, but the install is daunting and I've seen some people question how effective it is because most cars stop the compressor at wot. Any experience with it? I love the concept.
If you read further up I have added a res onto the line that used to join the two systems. It's only 1l but there's at least 2-3l in the new HX as well so I figure the system has close to an extra gal of coolant.
I have attached an old link to a thread on XKR's. With a Killer Chiller the charge coolers would have condensation on them if I let the car idle for a few minutes. The car had a temp gauge on the outlet side of the charge cooler. Under full boost of 20psi the coolant temp would go up to app 180. As soon as I backed off I could watch the temp go right back. In traffic on a hot summer day the coolant temp would be just about ambient. In the middle of the summer the car pulled as if it was the middle of the winter.
I have attached an old link to a thread on XKR's. With a Killer Chiller the charge coolers would have condensation on them if I let the car idle for a few minutes. The car had a temp gauge on the outlet side of the charge cooler. Under full boost of 20psi the coolant temp would go up to app 180. As soon as I backed off I could watch the temp go right back. In traffic on a hot summer day the coolant temp would be just about ambient. In the middle of the summer the car pulled as if it was the middle of the winter.
I dug into the ECU file with HPT over the weekend and learned nada. Nothing is defined and there are no tables for timing retard/advance vs iat or ect or anything else. COT isn't defined either. Nothing that would remotely help. Just very basic stuff.
The tcu file is a different story. Will be working on that over the next few weeks.
I used this as a reference and used same thickness of wires in order to not change the resistance of the wires. How did you wire yours? Do you have a picture?
With the cwa150 I wired it without the pwm/signal wire because it didn't provide enough voltage to properly cycle the PB pump like the oe pump and this was the suggested wiring from Tecomotive....and it does cause a code. If you used all three wires and the cwa100 has the same issue as the 150 where it needs too much current for the pwm wire to do its job, then it'd throw a code as well because when that happens the pump defaults to always on. So I'm guessing that is what is happening.
With the cwa150 I wired it without the pwm/signal wire because it didn't provide enough voltage to properly cycle the PB pump like the oe pump and this was the suggested wiring from Tecomotive....and it does cause a code. If you used all three wires and the cwa100 has the same issue as the 150 where it needs too much current for the pwm wire to do its job, then it'd throw a code as well because when that happens the pump defaults to always on. So I'm guessing that is what is happening.
I did use the 3 wires , but my pump is the cwa100 yours is the 150 maybe that is why you needed a bigger fuse.
I checked the fuses all are ok and the pump is indeed working but still throwing the code.
Because if the pump stops working it will throw a restricted performance code and the check engine light will come on
10-26-2022, 01:42 PM
